Kuramoto (breweries) and toji (brewmasters)

Kuramoto (breweries) and toji (brewmasters)

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Factors influencing types and varieties
Kuramoto (breweries) and toji (brewmasters)
Kuramoto (breweries) and toji (brewmasters)
Learning outcomes
8.11 Summary
Table 8.3 summarizes component differences between full-bodied and lightbodied sake and factors influencing the amount of body in sake. The actual
brewing process involves combining factors, such as kimoto and ginjozukuri, to
produce the desired sake quality.
Table 8.3 Factors influencing amount of body in sake
Full
High alcohol content
High acidity
Negative nihonshu-do:
high sugar content
High amino acid value: rich
in amino acids and peptides
Light
Low alcohol content
Low acidity
Positive nihonshu-do:
low in sugar content
Low amino acid value: low
in amino acids and peptides
Sake rice (varieties that
dissolve easily, such as
Yamadanishiki, Omachi)
Sake rice (varieties such as
Gohyakumangoku that
are less soluble than
Yamadanishiki)
Table rice
Seimai-buai
High
Low*
Water quality
Hard
Soft
Ratio of water to rice
Low
High
Koji-making style
Sohaze
Tsukihaze*
Shubo
Kimoto, Yamahaimoto
Sokujomoto
Components
Variety of rice
Fermentation temperature High
Low*
Ratio of undissolved solids
High*
Low
Time to pasteurization Long
(namazake period)
Short
Storage temperature
High
Low
Filtering
Unfiltered
Filtered
Use of active charcoal
* Essential for brewing ginjo-shu
44 | A Comprehensive Guide to Japanese Sake
• Knowledge of sake-brewing seasons
• Knowledge of history and activities of kuramoto
• Knowledge of work of toji and brewery workers
9.1 Sake brewing and seasons
The availability of cooling equipment and refrigerated storage of rice means it is
now possible to produce sake throughout the year, but still much sake production
starts after the autumn rice harvest, with the mixing of the steamed rice, water
and koji carried out during winter, when temperatures are low. Shipment of sake
also tends to occur in the period from late autumn through spring.
9.2 Kuramoto (breweries)
There are around 1,300 kuramoto brewing sake in Japan, from Hokkaido in the
north to Okinawa in the south. Many kuramoto have been producing sake for
more than 200 years, with the oldest having a history dating back 850 years. These
kuramoto have played a role in preserving the local environment by supporting
local rice production and protecting the water. They also function as cultural
leaders in their areas, sponsoring concerts, art exhibitions and other cultural
events.
You can still find many sake brewhouses with traditional architectural
features, such as earthen walls and tiled roofs. Most kuramoto welcome visitors so
we recommend you to pay a visit when you are traveling in Japan.
Figure 9.1
Sake brewhouse (Fushimi, Kyoto)
9.3 Toji (brewmaster)
The kuramoto is the brewery or the brewery owner, but those who actually
produce the sake are skilled brewers led by a toji, or brewmaster. Traditionally,
the kuramoto commissioned the toji to hire brewery workers to produce the sake.
Many toji and brewery workers are farmers who grow rice during the summer.
During the winter, when there is little farm work, they leave their homes and
provide their services as live-in workers at the breweries. The brewery workers
are assigned different tasks, such as washing and steaming the rice, making
koji, making shubo, and filtering the moromi. The toji oversees all of these
activities and has responsibility for controlling the sake quality and producing it
in accordance with the wishes of the kuramoto. There is a national accreditation
system for sake-brewing skills, but merely passing the examination does not
entitle one to be called a toji. The toji is required to have sufficient management
skill to oversee the brewery workers and must demonstrate an ability to produce
sake of recognized quality. There are many associations of toji and brewery
workers throughout Japan (Fig. 9.2). It is through these associations, that the skills
of sake brewing have been passed down over time.
A Comprehensive Guide to Japanese Sake | 45
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