tourist info - Use It Warsaw

>
`\
`e
`h
d\
R
CR
Uk
j^
Zć
d\
R
MOSCOW
=fS
V]d
\R
D`\
`]R
@Sc`ćTÜh
93
Paryska
KhjTZĆkTÜh
100 THE PLACE TO B
7RScjTk_
R
>`de
2X
cj\
`]R
4K6C?:2<@H
D<2
R]
Dk
fT
YR
a
Sask
7cR_Tfd\R
>
`\
`e
`h
d\
R
90
7cR_Tfd\R
A`dV]d\R
<Re`hZT\R
\R
5ĀSc`hZVT
ĄD<:
5KJDKJ
H2>:ă
Lw
ow
ska
>Zćd\R
8C@
49@
HD
<2
88
<c`\`Uj]
HR]V
Tk_j
TY
D@=64
CV\
e`cd
\R
K2>
@JD
<:6
8@
2=K:6=6?:64<2
Pia
sk
ow
a
@<
@A
@H
2
Eh
Rc
UR
87
]VT
D`
<`ý^Zć
d\R
The most pleasant way to experience
Chopin's music is to attend a (free!)
OPEN-AIR PIANO CONCERT AT
THE CHOPIN MONUMENT, May to
August, every Sunday at 12 and 4 p.m.
\R
Vhd
cjdk
D\R
8Üc_`ü]Ād\R
>jü]ZhZVT\R
97 FREE CHOPIN CONCERT
83
e`_R
dkj_X
`HR
C`_U
2=H2DKJ?8E@?2
d\R
`h
R\
c_Z
4kV
<ck
jh
ZT\ZV
X`
VāV \ZV
Sck hd
Hjfdk\`
üTZ
<`
VT
ka
iVT
w
;RkUÜh
Hidden behind the sleek German and
French embassies you will find a bit of
Scandinavian countryside right in the
middle of the city. It is a colony of ca. 30
temporary wooden houses built along
Jazdów street in 1945 for construction
workers rebuilding the ruined city. They
came from Finland via Soviet Union, were
supposed to last for 5 years but somehow
stayed, making up a beautiful and calm
neighbourhood in the heart of the city.
<RhĆ
91
Rk
ZV_\
`hd
\R
3RX
ReV]R
96 UN-FINNISH SYMPATHY
DZVU]VT\R
>yü
]i
97
8RcUV_GZ]]R
10
<`cdR\R
K2>
@JD
<:6
8@
89
2=2C>::=F5@H6;
95
8
86
_R
=fU
rat
Rozb
R]?RD\Rca
ZV
<`_`a_ZT
\ZV[
;`Y_R
=V__
`_R
A]
RT
?
RC
`k
Uc
`ā
f
82
6
ra
Dob
]
o
D`
iVX
sk
ow
Tzk
<ru
@\Ü]_Z\
\R
HZV[d
Art lovers cannot miss the Center of
Contemporary Art (CSW). In the baroque
Ujazdowski Castle (Zamek Ujazdowski) you
will find shows of international and Polish
artists, a decent permanent collection, a
bookshop, the Kino.Lab arthouse cinema, a
cosy café and the artsy yet pricey Qchnia
Artystyczna restaurant with stunning views
over the park. If you can’t be bothered to go
in, at least check out the stone benches
adorned by the American artist Jenny
Holzer, in the alley leading to the main
entrance. Open Tue-Sun 11-19, Fridays till
21, closed Mondays, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on
Thursdays. Address: ul. Jazdów 2
K`
]Z
85
\R
ER^
E`aZV]
4ZTYR
<`aVc_Z\R
<`aVc_Z\R
8RTkjćd\ZVX`
IN A BAROQUE CASTLE
96
4
<2
HD
<:;@
<:6
ĄD
64:
K4K
6D
K6ÿ
3C
HJ
sła
3c`hRc_R
DVhVcj_Üh
?@HJúH
:2E
95 CONTEMPORARY ART
A]RT
F_ZZ
=fS
V]d\
ZV[
=Z
eV
h
d\
R
81
R
>Rc\`hd\
84
2
@H
C8
E2
d\R
VdZć
Hck
X`
d\ZV
R\`h
DZVc
`
d\ZVX
`e`h
<`a
>ReV[\
Z
4Y`aZ_
R
2=6;6F
;2K5@H
D<:6
Founded in the 18th century as the king's
private suburban pleasuredome, Łazienki
(literally ‘the Bathhouse’) Park is one of
Warsaw's top tourist attractions. A long lake,
several palaces, a fake ruin of an amphitheatre, two greenhouses plus a flock of
peacocks strolling around all add to its
charm. You can even take a ride on the lake
in a gondola in the summer (only 6
zł/person). Beware of overpriced cafés. The
park is crowded on weekends, nice and quiet
on weekdays, open daily from dawn till dusk,
no cycling allowed.
Prusa
2
KĀS\`hd\R
TkR
KR[Ć
<dZĀāĆTR
R
A]
RT ]Hjkh
`]V_
KS
ZR
Rh
ZTZ
V]R
=Vdk`hR
\R
de`T
3ZR`
>`de
A`_ZRe`hd\ZVX`
A]RT
EckV
TY<
ckjā
j
100
101
A`]ZeVTY_Z\R
94 THE ROYAL PARK
98
0
R
Vd\
3ck
ćd\R
AR_ZV
Wi
R
Rćd\
7fc^
<R2<@HS<:6PRK6D>:6úC:6
<`d
kj\
`h
R
\ZTY
UVT
ú_ZR
TEN MINUTES WALK
ERcTY`^Zćd\R
80
e
>`d ckjd\Z
e`\
ZĆ
h
ú
T\R
3cR
?`h
`hZV
[d\R
AZĆ\_R
A]RT<`_dejefT[Z
aRT\R
<`_`
\R
Vcd
j_Z
:_ā
`hR
ERcX
75
79
ćd\R
HZ]V
\R
]`ćd
;RXZV
\R
[Rćd
ZĆe`
úh
_R
AZh
A`UhR]V
D<:6
6ÿ696=
HJ3CK
ĄD<:6
6852
CK6ÿ
HJ3
ra
Sta
6
sa
Vr
a_
to
Ackjcj_V\
R
7cVe
4kRT\ZVX`
EFES probably has the best kebab in town.
Buy it at the take away counter or don't risk
soiling your clothes and dine in. Address: al.
Niepodległości 80
7`\dR]
36=H
656C
D<2
93 EFES? OH YES!
_R
5cVh_ZR
?ReYR_d}dGZ]]R
99
During World War II people in Warsaw
needed a lot of prayer so they started to
build private shrines near their houses. You
can spot a statue of Virgin Mary or Jesus
Christ in many courtyards, that is a sign that
the building was built before the war. This
shrine is a rarity – situated not in the
courtyard but in the street in the usual place
of a corner shop entrance. Colourful, kitschy,
suspiciously Latino-looking, often adorned
with candles and flowers by local ladies, it is
the essence of Polish folk catholicism.
@ú4:
2C?
@=:5
D
=
2
76
74
77
78
92
R
`h
j\
dk
<`
Saska Kępa is Praga’s younger and prettier
sister – a chic modernist neighbourhood
planned in the 1920s. Kępa Cafe (ul.
Finlandzka 12a, open daily 10-22) is its new
favourite watering hole and a local cultural
centre.
<cfTkR
92 KĘPA CAFE
a
szow
Ratu
}R
f]]V
V8R
5
`
U
C`_
HdaÜ]_R
>RcdkR\`hd\R
As sick as it sounds, some of the best pastry
in town can be found in a former toilet. Try
one of the excellent cakes at MISIANKA
and you’ll forget and forgive the past.
DkaZeR]_R
102
AZĆ\_R
_R
A`]
91 TOILET SWEET TOILET
R
wa
RU
uszo
`a
Rat
Zde DeR]`hR
=
""
D^`]_R
HZ]TkR
YOUR BOAT
There's something for everyone in Park
Skaryszewski – one of the biggest and most
beautiful parks in the city. Landscaped to
resemble different parts of Poland – from
lowlands and lakes to rocky mountains.
Admire art deco sculptures, rent a pedal boat
or a regular one (by the restaurant U
Pstrąga) and enjoy the sweet smell from the
Wedel chocolate factory across the water.
>2CDK2<@HD<2
90 WHATEVER FLOATS
<`d
kj\
`h
R
H2CJĄD<:68@
Opened in 1955, STADION
DZIESIĘCIOLECIA used to be the largest
and the most prestigious sports venue in
Poland. Around 1990 the crumbling icon
changed hands and got turned into a huge
market catering to the poorer population of
the whole region, selling everything from
pirate cds and fake designer bags to exotic
food and guns. Most of the vendours came
from the former Soviet Union or even
farther eastern countries. It was also the
centre of the Vietnamese community in
Warsaw - the largest ethnic minority. The
old stadium and most of the market had to
be removed in 2008 to make way for the
new National Stadium, but you can still get
the taste of the market in the remaining
section, next to the Warszawa Stadion bus
station. Afficionados come here to taste
Vietnamese soup.
103
A`k_Rćd\R
This one is hard to get to, but worth the
struggle! The Vietnamese make up 1% of
Warsaw's population – the biggest ethnic
minority in an otherwise Polish city. Their
presence is hardly discernable, spare for some
streets and neighbourhoods where they live
and convene. In the courtyard of the Thang
Long cultural centre (ul. Zamoyskiego 4)
you can see one of the most bizarre traces of
the Vietnamese community – a miniature
copy of a pagoda in Hanoi.
Address: ul. Zamoyskiego 4
H2H
6=D<
2
9`āR
_R
A`]
89 STADIUM TURNED MARKET
;f^a:__
HdaÜ]_R
X`
d\ZV
\`h
?`R
86 PAGODA
7Z]ec
`hR
To the
airport
492F3:ĄD<:68@
You can now find a Wedel chocolate shop in
every major Polish shopping centre but this
one is different since it sits right next to the
actual Wedel factory.
Address: ul. Zamoyskiego 28/30
104
CV[R
=Za`hR
3Rc
e`d
kVh
ZTkR
HZU`\
ÿfcRhZR
7Z]e
c`h
R
8Ücd\ZVX`
82 STREET SHRINE
HZü]R_R
@S`ý_R
E2><2
Housed on the site of Koneser vodka factory,
MAGAZYN PRAGA sells the best of
young Polish design plus some paintings and
photography by local artists. Also in the
factory area: LUKSFERA photography
gallery. Open: Tue-Fri 12-20, Sat-Sun
11-18, closed Mon.
Address: ul. Ząbkowska 27/31 (entrance
through the factory gate)
The streets Stalowa, Konopacka and Mała in
the run-down Praga district are probably the
closest to what the poor parts of Warsaw
used to look like, escaping war demolition,
post-war reconstruction and recent
gentrification. No wonder they were used by
the director Roman Polański as a set for his
Oscar-winning film The Pianist.
VZ
@\ck
CRU_R
@cUj_RT\R
81 DESIGN FROM POLAND
79 THE HOLLYWOOD GHETTO
73
R
<Rc`h
4Y^ZV]_R
?`h`Xc`Uk\R
2
=
?
:6A@
5=68
@ú4
:
88 CHOCOLATE FACTORY SHOP
KX
`U
R
Standing in front of Warszawa Wileńska
shopping centre you can trick yourself into
thinking you're in Russia. This is the point
where trains from Petersburg used to arrive
and that's why a huge orthodox church was
built here – to ease the culture shock for
travellers from Russia, apparently. The
Petersburg station does not operate any
more but in 1945 a Soviet Army monument
was erected in front of the church, so now
the place looks even more Russian.
C`_U`
5^`h
d\ZVX`
@Tk\Z
@_UcRdk\R
MURRR (or the Walll) gallery is the latest
addition to Warsaw's street art scene. Every
now and then a different artist takes over the
24-metre wall dividing Wedel chocolate
factory from Powszechny Theatre, adding a
bit of colour to the otherwise grim
neighbourhood.
Address: ul. Zamoyskiego 24/26
>Rk`
hZVT\
R
6A]ReVc
=Z_U]VjR
H2H
6=D<
2
<ckjT
\ZVX`
ki
aT
Y_
iV
>oT
sk
_ow
a
i
>
R
`h
Z`U
>
R
`h
kS
ZVc
H
ÿV]Rk_R
K`eR
?`h`Xc`Uk\R
\R
]V
5R
\R
Vd
ck
`S
R
3Z
T
mi
2kaUV
HRcVT\R
DZV_\ZVhZTkR
DZV__R
4V_ecf^
\R
ćd
kj
cT
R
E
105
;Rd_R
>ZVUkZR_R
H2
E@H2C@
R
DaZd\
A]RT?Rcfe`hZTkR
R
T\
_Z
Z_
H
87 THE WALLL
Bar
ska
<R]Zd\
R
R
ZT\
]Zh
ü
Ć
Tk
Dk
2
4<
;6
¼
8C
;`eV
j\Z
\R
Z_ZRcd
?`h
R
d\
Rć
V]
3Z
X`
\ZV
hd
c`
ĀS
5
RT
A]
<`cTk
R\R
>`_Zfdk\Z
2=6;6;6C@K@=:>D<:6
?ZV
^T
Vh
ZTk
R
EcRfXfeeR
úhZĆe`\ckjd\R
A]R
TK
Rh
Zdkj
D<:6
2=;6C@K@=:>
\R
cReVcd
3`_ZW
HR`h
R
A]RT
AZd
fUd\
ZVX`
ú]Zd\R
76 FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE
e
>`d c`hd\Z
ĀS
\`5
ú]Ād
72
ARćd\R
<`]V[`hR
For the ultimate communist milk bar
experience visit RUSAŁKA on the corner,
right next to St. Florian Cathedral. Address:
ul. Floriańska 14
3VU_Rcd\R
úH:ăE@<CKJD<2
K`eR
75 MILK BAR
>ar
iV_sztat
]_j
VRecR
A]RTE
Beehive of activity in the heart of the
so-called BERMUDA TRIANGLE area
(nick-named earned for the way cars, phones
and handbags tend to disappear here). An
alternative culture and entertainment centre
in a run-down building is home to clubs &
pubs (SATURATOR, ZWIąż MNIE,
SKłAD BUTELEK, HYDROZAGADKA), TEATR ACADEMIA and the
street art gallery VIURO. Busy also on
weeknights. And don't worry about the bad
reputation of the Bermuda Triangle, it's ok
so long as you don't act in a provocative way
or don't show off your fancy new phone in
the street.
Right next to the bus stop you can notice
bears in action all year round - a living
advertisement for the nearby zoo.
69
71
AcÜā_R
R
EhRcU
C`_
U`@
?K
AC@DE2
70
R
<cÜ]Vhd\
A]RT8ckjS
`hd\Z
AVcVTR
<R_`_ZR
68
R
fX
5
DV_Re`cd\R
8ckjS`hd\R
HR]ZTÜh
Hc`_ZR
Ackj`
\`a`
hR
<Rc`]\`
hR
fT\R
ą
3`]Vü
A]3R_
\`hj
8cR_ZTk_R
HR]ZTÜh
8ckjS`hd\R
`
\ZVX
jćd
Rdk
5
`
U
C`_
64
67
78 11 LISTOPADA 22
74 THE BEARS
>ZRdeR
`hVX`
Cj_V\?
XR
5f
CRefdk2cdV_R
;2?2A2H2::
<c`TY^R]_R
57
KR\c`Tkj^d\R
86?2
?56CD
2
63
a]>Zc`hd\Z
4Y`U_R
66
65
cR]_R
6]V\e`
4Y^ZV]_R
<2
ĄD
A:
<@
WHAT’S
ON
TODAY?
A`\`c_R
KR^V_Y`WR
59
3ZRR
Hc`_ZR
E@H2C@H
2
ÿV]Rk_R
DeRdkZTR
<`]V[`hR
62
61
ZV
?`h`]Za
9cfSZVdk`h
d\R
DkRcj
TYDk
VcVXÜ
h
Dubois
\Z
?`h`]Za
3V]]`eZVX`
<Rc`]\`hR
>j_Rcd\R
HRhV]SVcXR
DZVU^Z`Xc`Uk\R
C`XR]Zćd\
R
85 BAZAR RÓŻYCKIEGO
Come and witness the last days of the
legendary open-air market in Praga which
used to supply Warsaw with everything from
potatoes to wedding dresses. To be
redeveloped soon, so hurry up.
Address: ul. Targowa 54
Supported by
the City of Warsaw
Jaktorowska
Praga – the notorious working class 'hood –
has been enjoying a bit of a revival lately.
Some houses in Ząbkowska street were
refurbished and became home to a range
of bars:
W Oparach Absurdu (ul. Ząbkowska 6),
Czarny Motyl (ul. Ząbkowska 2), Łysy
Pingwin (ul. Ząbkowska 11). At Klitka
(ul. Ząbkowska 12) you can have a retro
picture of yourself taken.
A]<cRdZ_d\ZTY
\Z
?`h`]Za
@Xc`U`hR
The first shop of the independent fashion
brand GREEN ESTABLISHMENT
founded by three young local designers.
Doubles as a textile shop and an all-day
hang out for the friends and the friends of
the friends. Address: ul. Wileńska 13/46
\R
k\Rćd
7cR_TZd
úwiĆto
[Vrska
CITY CENTRE: SEE OTHER SIDE
H`]d
\R
D\ZVc_ZVh
ZT\R
Design and Illustration:
Dominik Cymer
www.nobdepot.com
Rafał Szczepaniak
www.rafal-szczepaniak.com
Photo:
Artur Tondera
508 metres and 43 entrances. The legend has
it that it was designed to conceal the
crumbling buildings of old Praga from the
sight of people arriving at the train station
across the street. Nicknames include:
Dachshund, Anthill, Tapeworm. Immortalised by the UK band Travis in their video
Love Will Come Through (2003).
Address: ul. Kijowska 11
Marta Zaręba decided to start AUĆ
BELLA when she could not find a decent
wedding dress. At her shop you can hunt
down carefully selected pieces by up-andcoming designers from around the world.
Address: ul. Ząbkowska 4 app. 43/44
Text:
Grzegorz Piątek
Editor:
Bęc Zmiana Foundation
www.funbec.eu
IN WARSAW
In December people prefer to stay sealed in department
stores and shopping centres. The Christmas shopping
frenzy lasts for about 6 weeks, ends with the last items of
winter clothing two weeks into the new year. If the weather
gets rough, you can explore the weatherproof side of
Warsaw – its vast system of underground passages around
the Central Railway Station. Unmissable: a cup of hot
chocolate at Wedel’s (no. 31)
For exhibitions: try to spot the quarterly bilingual 'What’s On
In Warsaw’s Galleries', available in most art places, some
cafés/bars and tourist information points. Tickets to concerts,
theatre performances and major club events can be bought at
Bileteria counters in Empik megastores (Rondo de Gaulle’a –
near no. 38) and in Traffic megastore (no. 32).
<2DA
CK2<
2
83 LONGEST BUILDING
84 PASSION FOR FASHION
CULTURE
TRAM
2_ZV]V
hZTkR
ú4:
:52C?@
2=D@=
=6DK?@
DĆ\
`TZć
d\R
WINTER
Try to make sense out of the schedule published in the
monthly guide 'Aktivist' (only in Polish, free, available in
dozens of bars, clubs and cafés).
A`T\R
PARTIES
HOSTEL
=fU
hZ\
Z
ÿje_
ZR
GOING
OUT
H@=D<2
a
sk
w
so
ko
Ro
June and July are the hottest months of the year. In the
beginning of July EVERYBODY goes on holiday, and
those who have to work use every opportunity to get out
for weekends. Polish Army Day (August 15th) is the peak
of the holiday season. Weather stays brilliant for most of
the summer so it’s a great time if you want to walk and
cycle a lot or just enjoy the parks and enjoy the riverfront!
Swimming is not advised, but you can take advantage of
our modest fleet and see the city from a 'water tram'.
Unmissable: 4 a.m. breakfast at Szpilka (no. 87).
The city fills back with people throughout September.
Theatres start the new season towards the end of the month.
In October classes start at universities and the cultural season
kicks off for good.
Unmissable: Warsaw Film Festival – a showcase for indie
movies from all over the world (October, www.wff.pl);
visit at the old Powązki cemetery on November 1st (no. 58).
BAR
METRO
J
2
>
KJ
8C
SUMMER
AUTUMN
FOOD
8¼
C4
K6H
D<
2 SHOP
H
`]_
`ü
ą
<RTkR
You may ridicule the attempt to recreate the
atmosphere of Ibiza in an Eastern European
city but LA PLAYA beach club is worth
checking out for the view of the city across
the river. Come by for a drink at sunset. And
don't dare to dip into the water.
Address: ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5
5kZV]_R
5kZV]_R
<RTkR
The first ESCALATOR in Warsaw, opened
in 1949 is no longer a wonder of technology
but it’s worth seeing as a downscaled version
of the lavish interiors of the Moscow metro.
It was actually a gift from the Russian
capital to Warsaw. Check out the piece of
original machinery in the basement by the
(free and clean!) public toilet and the
Stalinist decor on the lower platform.
The old, narrow and steep Bednarska street
is favoured as a location by filmmakers. If
these walls could talk, they'd give away a
thousand plots. For lunch: excellent pierogi
at the twin places PIEROGARNIA and
CIEPłE KLUCHY (12 kzł
for a serving, hot
d \Z
R_Xf 14 zł; opening
soup: 3-5 zł, lunchDmenu:
\R
hours
- cd
Pierogarnia:
11-21, Ciepłe Kluchy:
`_hZ\e`
<
11-19). Address: ul. Bednarska 28/30
>fcR_`h
d\R
X`
ZV
d\
h
e`
Rc
h
=V D
ub
ois
>ZR
Pawia
Pawia
>ZcVT\ZVX`
3cj]`h
d\R
In March, when days get longer and temperature exceeds
10 degrees, life seems to speed up. This does not apply just
to plants and animals but also to cultural and social life.
May is perhaps the best time to visit Warsaw – to see the
city at its warmest, greenest, most exciting. Warning –
although Warsaw is the least religious city in Poland, avoid
visiting around Easter – shops, restaurants, museums,
practically everything is shut down for at least 3 days.
Unmissable: lazy time in the green, studenty Powiśle area
(see no. 46, 50, 52, 53, 56).
CRS
dke
jćd
\R
BERLIN
SPRING
According to one of the employees, a child
once walked into MURANÓW CINEMA
and whined: But mom, I thought we were
going to a cinema, not to a theatre… It sums
up the atmosphere of the place most
accuratly, preserved in its Stalinist glory.
Interior decor aside, Muranów is a great
arthouse cinema showing the best European
and independent productions, conveniently
placed next to the Ratusz Arsenał metro
station. There’s also a small café and
Celuloid, a shop for film lovers, selling
DVDs, books, posters and memorabilia in
the foyer. Cheapest tickets on Mondays.
Check out the re-run programme in the
summer to catch up on the films you missed
during the preceding season.
Address: ul. Gen. Andersa 1
HZVckj_\R
?Zd\R
60
2_ZV]VhZTkR
<ckjāR
_`hd\
ZVX`
You can buy delicious Chopin chocolates and a bottle of
Chopin vodka, both available in every respectable
supermarket. The most unusual way to celebrate the
composer’s genius is to buy a life-size, gilded, pocelain cast
of his famous nose.
61 MOVIE / THEATRE
3V^
R
SHOPPING FOR CHOPIN
S
R N
U SO W
A
FOEA RS
S F
O A
W
In 2010 Warsaw celebrates the 200th anniversary of
Fryderyk Chopin’s birth. The great composer and pianist
was born in Żelazowa Wola, 50 km west of Warsaw, to a
French father and a Polish mother. They moved to Warsaw
soon after, where little Fryderyk started to take piano
lessons. He gave his first public performance at the age of
six and quickly gained notoriety among well-to-do citizens.
As a teenager, Chopin drank a lot of coffee (Warsaw was
rapidly developing its café scene) and chased girls,
performed for important people (including the tsar of
Russia), played the organ at the Visitation Sisters Church
(ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, one of very few landmarks
that survived World War II intact), and still had the time
to compose some brilliant music. Chopin left Warsaw for
good in 1830 and never came back, not because he didn’t
want to but because he couldn’t. We certainly hope you will
have a great time here, like he did, but will come back one
day!
>ZR
ÿjeSIGHTSEEING
_ZR
A`T\R
CHOPIN’S WARSAW
The vast green square, named after the
German chancellor Willy Brandt who
contributed to the reconciliation between
Germans, Jews and Poles after WWII, is a
must-see for anyone interested in Jewish
culture and history. It represents the past –
the monumental GHETTO HEROES
MEMORIAL and the surrounding blocks
have been built in the 1950s and 1960s
directly on the site of the ruined Jewish
neighbourhood. If you go south towards ul.
Nowolipie, you will even notice buildings
elevated above the street level on a layer of
soil and rubble. Willy Brandt square also
represents the future: it is the site of the new
MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF
POLISH JEWS, due in 2012. Before it
becomes reality you can simply join the
locals who like to walk their dogs and
sunbathe on the site of the future museum.
You can also take bus #180 or walk to the
old JEWISH CEMETERY.
DjcV_j
You can catch a bus or tram in any
direction (including 175) from
Rondo Dmowskiego, a busy
junction of two main avenues:
Marszałkowska and Aleje
Jerozolimskie. This is also where the
biggest underground station, called
Centrum, is located.
8cV_
RUj
D`\``hd\
R
Zielone Mazowsze (Green
Mazovia) – ul. Nowogrodzka 46/6
60 FUTURE JEWISH CENTRE
?Zd\R
D`ej\R
5kZRU`hd\
R
Tamka – ul. Tamka 30
One of the most controversial buildings in
KRh
Warsaw, designed by Marek Budzyński
(the
Zdkj
man who gave us the University Library, no.
K`
56). SĄD NAJWYŻSZY (Supreme
Court)
TZV
_Z
is also green and with trees on top,R but this
time the architect was accused of drawing
inspiration from Nazi architecture. Make up
your own mind.
Ejdk\ZVhZTkR
Szkolne Schronisko Młodzieżowe
nr 2 – ul. Smolna 30
Free entrance on Thursday in two
major contemporary art galleries:
Zachęta (no. 24) and CSW (no.
95), on Saturday in National
Museum (no. 40), on Sunday in
Warsaw Rising Museum (no. 57),
every day in the Museum of
Modern Art (no. 8, Muzeum
Sztuki Nowoczesnej).
Named simply VINTAGE this shop sells
carefuly selected pieces of vintage clothing.
Hard to spot - first find the gate behind
KFC, enter the courtyard and head to the
left. Address: al. Jana Pawła II 44
Stawki
80 ZĄBKOWSKA STREET
STREET
Stawki
@\`a`hR
Oki Doki – pl. Dąbrowskiego 3
(Dąbrowskiego Square not to be
confused with Dąbrowskiego
Street)
Useful bus lines:
175 – links the airport, the Central
Train Station, the city center and
the Old Town area.
180 – links all major historical
landmarks – from the Old Catholic
and Jewish cemeteries in the north,
via the former Jewish neighbourhood, Old Town, Royal Route,
down to the former royal residence
in Wilanów. With English signage.
100 – official tourist line winding
around the city, including Praga
and the Old Town
Most museums and galleries are
closed on Monday, except for the
Warsaw Rising Museum (no. 57,
closed Tuesday).
64 COURT OF GLASS
R
:_W]R_T\
77 FASHION IN OLD PRAGA
72 PIEROGI IN A CHARMING
5h`ckVT8URćd\Z
58
73 FEELING BEACHY?
St. Anne's church (kościół św. Anny) is one
of the most popular wedding venues. It also
offers a great view of the city and the Old
Town from the belfry. Open 11 a.m.-6 p.m.,
extended til 9-10 p.m. in the summer
depending on weather conditions, tickets 3/4
zł. Address: ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68
Dzika
<`]d\
R
8ZSR]d\ZVX`
New World Street Hostel – ul.
Nowy Świat 27
MUSEUMS
59 VINTAGE CLOTHES
DjcV_j
Krokodyl – ul. Czapelska 24
Most of the night buses (11 p.m. to
5 a.m.) depart from the Central
Train Station (Dworzec
Centralny).
www.warsawtour.pl
www.e-warsaw.pl
Da`
\`[_
R
D^`TkR
Kanonia – ul. Jezuicka 2
Nathans's Villa - ul. Piękna 24/26
A@H
þK<
@H
D<2
\R
<Rc^V]ZT
Jump Inn – ul. Prokuratorska 2
We have only one metro line but
we’re proud of it, as it is one of the
safest and cleanest in Europe (5
a.m. to 12 a.m., extended till 3 a.m.
on Friday and Saturday nights).
Named in honour of Bernardo Bertolucci’s
1988 cult film, KINO PARADISO is the
smallest and the most independent of
Warsaw’s cinemas, hidden in an old palace
lost on a traffic island. See your favourite
Lynch or Jarmusch and other indie classics
to the sound of trams passing by (open
Tuesday-Sunday, tickets 5-13 zł).
Address: al. Solidarności 62
70 TASTE OF MOSCOW METRO
71 VIEW OF THE OLD TOWN
D@>:ĄD<:68@
H2::
;2?2A2
Helvetia – ul. Kopernika 36/40,
entrance from ul. Sewerynów
63 CINEMA PARADISO
R
`h
`k
@S
Garden Villa – ul. Dolna 42
Old Town Market Square (Rynek
Starego Miasta) 19/21a
open daily:
9-20 (May-September)
9-18 (October-April)
eRcd\R Old Town
If you find yourself in theERtouristy
and desperate for a cup of coffee, head
straight to the only place respected by the
locals – the miniature café TO LUBIĘ (I
Like It), housed in the belfry of the
Dominican church. Make sure to try baked
apple with ice cream (jabłka zapiekane pod
kruszonką, 12 zł, 20-minute wait).
Address: ul. Freta 10
a
Dzik
HOSTELS
Tickets may be bought at the
newsagent’s (kiosk) and post
offices, as well as machines
(English menu available!) at metro
stations and several central
locations.
66 SWEET FAITH
C2D
KJĄ
D<2
1 RUB = 0,1 ZŁ
RYNEK STAREGO MIASTA is crowded
with tourists and local families trying to
have quality time together. Dead at night.
Allow yourself ten minutes to look around,
don't eat or drink (expensive) and go
somewhere else.
2d
_j
\R
1 CZK = 0,16 ZŁ
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 65
(near Old Town)
open daily:
9-20 (May-September)
9-18 (October-April)
When approaching the Old Town, you will
see a slender column topped with a statue of
a man with a sword and a crucifix. The
monument in Plac Zamkowy, popularly
referred to as KOLUMNA ZYGMUNTA,
is a token of gratitude to king Zygmunt III
Waza who moved his seat from Cracow to
Warsaw in 1596 starting the endless feud
between the old and the new capital. After
four centuries we are still a bunch of
chancers and nouveau riche scum to the
people in Cracow. Cracow, get over it!
ska
Burakow
1 GBP = 5,04 ZŁ
In Poland, dying is an important part of life.
Instead of celebrating Halloween, every year
on November 1 we flock to cemeteries to
visit the graves of our loved ones. Since half
of the population in Warsaw weren’t even
born here, a local twist on the tradition
developed – we visit graves of celebrities at
the old POWĄZKI CEMETERY. It’s a
social occasion, with (living) celebrities
fund-raising for the restoration of elaborate
historic tomb stones and thousands of
people strolling around til very late.
Unforgettable. The old JEWISH
CEMETERY (Cmentarz Żydowski) down
Okopowa street is also worth a visit.
69 MOVER AND SHAKER
68 OLD MARKET SQUARE
;R_R@de
c`XR
Single ride / 40 min. ticket
= 2,80 ZŁ
20 min. ticket = 2 ZŁ, 30 min.
= 2,40 ZŁ
24-hour ticket = 9 ZŁ (3 and 7-day
tickets also available)
1 CHF = 2,92 ZŁ
58 LIFE AFTER DEATH
CR
Xo
dk
jć
d\
R
1 USD = 3,20 ZŁ
Fryderyk Chopin Airport,
Terminal 2 (Lotnisko Fryderyka
Chopina)
open daily:
8-20 (May-September)
8-18 (October-April)
Given the amount of people who visit
Warsaw to experience Jewish culture, it is
incredible how hard it is to find a decent
Jewish restaurant. POD SAMSONEM is
really the only place worth recommending,
their Jewish and Polish fare is delicious and
affordable. Try goose necks (gęsi pipek) or
hering and you’ll forgive the lazy service and
the extra charges for toilet and cloak room.
Packed in the evenings and on weekends,
relatively empty during lunchtime on
weekdays (main courses: 10-30 zł).
Address: ul. Freta 3/5
ka
1 EUR = 4,44 ZŁ
There is one ticket system for
trams, metro, buses and local trains
within city limits.
There are several classic milk bars in the
centre, all combining great prices, good food
with the thrill of sharing a table with a
smelly bum. BARBAKAN (named after the
medieval gate to the Old Town) stands out
because it is the only one where Dalai Lama
popped by for a glass of milk. It also boasts a
pleasant summer terrace.
Address: ul. Mostowa 27/29
VX
o
1 ZŁOTY = 0,22 EUR = 0,31 USD
Central Train Station (Dworzec
Centralny), main hall
open daily: 8-20 (May-September)
8-18 (October-April)
MILK BAR
RESTAURANT
Take a wobbly lift to the top floor of a 1960s
housing block and go back 40 years in time.
INSTYTUT AWANGARDY is the former
rooftop studio of the conceptual artist
Edward Krasiński who lived a very
avant-garde life there together with his
bohemian friends. The apartment was
completely preserved after his death – only
dust is being removed. In 2007 a glass
exhibition pavilion was added on the terrace,
designed by Dutch architecture’s bright new
hope, BAR Architects. Climb up to the roof
of the pavilion, used for film screenings in
the summer, for a breathtaking view of the
Old Town on one side and the modern city
on the other. Open Thu-Fri, 10-14 + on
special occasions. Address: al. Solidarności
64 app. 118
Ack
j`
\`
a`
hR
MONEY
TOURIST INFO
CENTERS
The WARSAW RISING MUSEUM is the
most popular in the city. It tells the tragic
story of Warsaw and its citizens in World
War II, focusing on the 1944 uprising
against Germans. Check out the murals
painted by modern Polish artists in the
memorial garden. Allow about 2 hours to see
everything. Entrance from ul. Przyokopowa,
open: Mon, Wed, Fri 8-18, Thu 8-20,
Sat-Sun 10-18, closed Tue, tickets: 4/2 zł.
Address: ul. Grzybowska 79
67 DALAI LAMA’S FAVOURITE
65 POLISH-JEWISH
A`T\
R
PUBLIC
TRANSPORTATION
Warsaw is not easy to travel on foot
or on a bike. Bad pavements, cars
parking everywhere, rude drivers,
inconvenient underground
passages, long distances: all this
means that it does make sense to
use public transporation from time
to time.
62 TOP ART ON TOP FLOOR
57 WARSAW SAW WAR
2X
Rh
j
TOURIST
INFO
101 COFFEE KARMA
94
Dk
h`
]Vā
VcÜ
h
99 STALINIST CITY
98 HIP STREETS
MOKOTOWSKA and KOSZYKOWA are
fast becoming the hippest shopping streets
in Warsaw. Highlights: Warszawska Nike
(ul. Mokotowska 24 – vintage and collector’s
Nikes displayed against black-and-white
photos of 1960s Warsaw and a glass
chandelier salvaged from a bankrupt
communist restaurant), RS2 (ul. Koszykowa
24), Fumo (ul. Mokotowska 26), GaliLu
(rare perfume in a beautiful, living-room-like
interior) and DDR Studio (vintage furniture,
ul. Mokotowska 31).
RkZV_\`hd\Z
PLAN.B
seems to be plan B for the clientele
of the perennially hip Coffee Karma across
Plac Zbawiciela. Dark, messy, filled with
smoke and a bit claustrophobic it has been
extremely popular, but is rumoured to close
in November 2009. Be sure to check it out
before they get chucked out and don't forget
to thank their neighbours. They have made a
considerable effort to make Plan B
disappear. Address: al. Wyzwolenia 18
Try to imagine what Warsaw would look like
if the 1950s Stalinist regime had enough
time and money to transform the city
according to their taste. The MDM housing
district, opened in 1952, served as a model
for future development. Admire the
grandiose housing blocks, dubbed 'palaces
for workers', larger-than-life and genuinely
scary statues of working class heroes, the
"Four Seasons of Socialist Poland" mosaic
decorations in the arcades along the main
square (PLAC KONSTYTUCJI), and the
1960s neon sign with a volleyball player on
the corner of ul. Koszykowa, restored in
2005 by the artist Paulina Ołowska.
Karma is a leisurely café set in one of the
most beautiful squares in Warsaw. Popular
among students as well as actors from
neighbouring theatres: Wspolczesny and
TR. Elektra coffee (latte with honey and
cinnamon) and smoothies named Pinky and
Karmasutra are the specialty of the house,
but there is also wine, sandwiches, salads and
cakes. In the warmer months try to grab a
table outside, with a view to the Saviour's
Church to the right. Mon-Fri 7:30-22,
Sat-Sun 10-22.
Address: pl. Zbawiciela 3/5
102 OLD-SCHOOL SCHOOL
The main building of POLITECHNIKA
WARSZAWSKA (Warsaw Technical
University) is one of the most unusual public
buildings in Warsaw, owing to its grand
inner courtyard modelled after renaissance
palaces but much, much bigger. If you feel
like mingling with future engineers, visit the
cheap café on first floor.
Address: pl. Politechniki 1
103 BAR HOPPING
IN THE PARK
POLE MOKOTOWSKIE (official name:
Park Piłsudskiego) is a huge green area on
the site of Warsaw's first airport. Popular
with roller skaters and beer lovers alike, it
was also Ryszard Kapuściński’s (famous
Polish reporter and non-fiction writer)
favourite place for long walks. On a warm
day you can do a bit of bar hopping between
the cheap pubs like ZIELONA GĘŚ or
LOLEK scattered around the park. Very
crowded on summer weekends. If you get
hungry, pick up a grilled sausage (kiełbasa)
in one of the bars or have lunch at the super
cheap CAFETERIA IN THE
NATIONAL LIBRARY (huge building,
impossible to miss).
104 KOLONIA CAFÉ
Relax at KOLONIA CAFÉ set up in a tiny
house by two local young mothers for other
locals who visit Park Wielkopolski across the
street. Address: ul. bł. Władysława
z Gielniowa 9/11
105 FILTER COFFEE
CAFÉ FILTRY takes its name from the
nearby waterworks, not from paper filters
used for coffee machines. It is a charming
café in the leafy neighbourhood of Ochota
ran in a former laundry shop. Strictly
non-smoking. Open: Monday-Friday 8-21,
Saturday 10-21, Sunday 10-18.
Address: ul. Niemcewicza 3