Poznan in Your Pocket
Transkrypt
Poznan in Your Pocket
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps POZNAŃ July - October 2009 Socialist Paradise Traces of Commie Poznan Tourist Trails City walks & historic walls N°23 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) poznan.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1642-2902 CONTENTS Y OUR P ERFECT P LACE TO S TAY E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S 3 Full contents of all our Poland guides are now online: www.inyourpocket.com Contents Arriving in Poznań 12 Getting around 13 Planes, trains & automobiles The Basics 17 Surviving Poz Culture & Events 20 This seasons highlights Where to stay 26 Accommodation for all pockets Restaurants 37 The highs and lows Cafes 52 Nightlife 54 It’s done nothing but rain so far this summer, but don’t let that stop you inspecting all the city has to offer. There’s tourist trails aplenty, and a reliable umbrella is all that’s necessary to survive a walk round the restored walls which once kept invaders out. Read more on page 8. Hedonists handbook History 64 Sightseeing EdocV² 171 rooms and apartments, exquisite cuisine Banquet and conference rooms Harmonia Wellness Club & Pool Underground parking What to see The city inside out 66 The Piast Route 76 Castles of Wielkopolska 77 Gniezno 78 Kórnik 82 Leisure 86 Shopping 88 Directory 89 Maps & Index ;dgbdgZ^c[dgbVi^dcdggZhZgkVi^dcXVaa )-+&++,-%%% [Vm/ )-+&++,-%%& EaVX6cYZghV(!+&"-.)EdocVń, Poland Wdd`^c\5VcYZgh^V]diZa#ea lll#VcYZgh^V]diZa#ea It’s 20 years since Poland left communism behind, and in that time the locals have done a good job of razing any reminders of this black period. Some have survived, however, and we’ve gone deep in the field to bring you what traces remain of Big Brother. See page 6. poznan.inyourpocket.com City centre map City map Country map Street index Listings index Feature index 91 92 94 96 97 98 July - October 2009 4 FOREWORD A few years is a long time if you’re Poznan. Back in the 18th century a thirty year spell brought with it plague, siege, hurricanes and floods. Fast forward a few hundred years and Poznan has seen similarly drastic changes; fortunately, this time round, they’ve been of the positive kind. When In Your Pocket first visited this city seven years back Poznan was a very different place. We liked what we saw, we just didn’t have too much fun. Five star lodgings were an aberrant fantasy, while eating out was like crossing a minefield. As for clubbing, you’d need a shaved head and an Adidas tracksuit to fit in with all the other World Gym hardmen. Now, almost unaccountably, Poznan hasn’t just changed, it’s utterly transformed. The hotels here aren’t just good, they’re among the best in Europe. You’ll need to go to space to find somewhere more hi-tech than the Blow Up Hall, while the quality and choice of restaurants has finally come to reflect the spread of nationalities that visit the city. Better still, a night out doesn’t end until the birds sing in the morning, with your choices ranging from foggy student dungeons to cutting edge dance floors. But if those are the changes, what’s stayed the same? The answer is the good bits. The old town remains every bit as glorious as when it was first built, and your daylight distractions go way beyond the usual spread of galleries and churches. Where else, for instance, can you find Egyptian obelisks, meteor craters and synagogues since turned into swimming pools. This is not the level headed business city some people think; this is madness microscoped, and one of the true highlights of Central Europe. Enjoy it. As always we welcome all feedback, so long as it’s directed to editor_poland@inyourpocket. com. Have a great summer. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Company office & Accounts Basia Olszewska WIYP Sp. z o.o. ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot 058 555 08 31 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Printing CGS Published 15,000 copies, 3 times per year Maps Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM Rynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica 31-042 Kraków, tel./fax 012 421 24 48 [email protected] Poznań In Your Pocket Europe In Your Pocket Our team in Slovenia have been most active of lates, this spring preparing now fewer than three brand new In Your Pockets, to Bled, Maribor and Portoroz. The same team is also responsible for the buzz of activity around Banja Luka and Sarajevo in Bosnia, where In Your Pockets are in the final stages of research and development. Not content with the two countries they have already well and truly Pocketed, they have now turned west and have their eyes set firmly on Venice. In nearby Croatia new guides to all your favourite resorts are now available, including Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Split and Zadar, while seasonal, annual guides are also now out in Parnu, Estonia, and Klaipeda and Kaunas in Lithuania. Editorial Copyright notice Editor Garrett Van Reed Assistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo Research Małgorzata Frydryszewska, Paweł Perkowski, Paweł Perwejnis Events Klaudia Mampe, Łukasz Jankowski, Vaughan Elliott Design Tomáš Haman Photography Rentapocket Cover © Aleksander Liebert Text and photos copyright WIYP 1999/2009. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Sales & Circulation Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 0606 749 676 Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane Representative: Anna Chłapek 0668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 0606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 0606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Monika Kitson 0503 057 142 Representative: Bartosz Matyjas 058 555 98 18 City Park Residence LV3R]QDĝ·VÀUVWWRSOHYHOUHVLGHQFHIDFLOLW\&RPELQLQJXQLTXHDUFKLWHFWXUH ZLWKPRGHUQGHVLJQ&LW\3DUN5HVLGHQFHRIIHUVHOHJDQWO\IXUQLVKHGDLUFRQGLWLRQHGVXLWHV 2XUJXHVWVZLOODSSUHFLDWHRXUH[FHOOHQWORFDWLRQFORVHWRWKHFLW\FHQWHUKDOIZD\EHWZHHQWKHâDZLFD$LUSRUWDQG 3R]QDĝ,QWHUQDWLRQDO)DLU2XULQKRXVHIDFLOLWLHVVXFKDVDVZLPPLQJSRROFRQIHUHQFHURRPVDQGDFR]\VKRSSLQJ PDOOZLWKDQXPEHURIFDIHVJXDUDQWHHOX[XULRXVUHOD[DWLRQDQGPDNHDSHUIHFWSODFHIRURUJDQL]LQJPHHWLQJVDQG FRQIHUHQFHV Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. poznan.inyourpocket.com City Park Residence 8O:\VSLDĝVNLHJRD 3R]QDĝ 7HO )D[ UHVLGHQFH#FLW\SDUNFRPSO ZZZFLW\SDUNUHVLGHQFHFRPSO 6 COMMUNIST POZNAŃ It’s here, in between some low-budget eateries, you’ll find a couple of Socialist Realist wall reliefs, one of which depicts a Red Army ‘frontovnik’ face to face with a Polish rifleman. Close by examples of Socialist housing projects are numerous, with the most obvious being that found on Plac Wielkoplski. While nowhere near as impressive as similar estates in Warsaw and Nowa Huta it is nonetheless a fine model of Soviet era architecture – not only were such estates designed with the community in mind, but also for ‘efficient mutual control’. The wide spaces were intended to prevent the spread of fire, the profusion of trees would soak up a potential nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress town should it come under attack. Find further examples of this unique architectural style to the west of the city, where whole blocks between Glogowska and Bukowska streets have been built as if by the hand of Stalin himself. Soviet-Polish Friendship Alex Webber Poland has moved quicker than a greased goose to embrace capitalism, and few cities have done more than Poznan to ditch those clunky shackles of socialism. The collapse of communism brought with it a vengeful iconoclasm, with stars and sickles stripped from the buildings and statues they formerly adorned. As such few symbols of the old regime survive, though those with an eagle eye and a good map (we recommend the one found lurking to the back of this paperback hero) will still find traces of Stalin etc. For fans of the red flag the most obvious area to start will be the Soviet cemetery up in the Citadel Park (G-1, Wzgorze Cytadela). On January 24, 1945, Stalingrad veteran Colonel General Vasily Chuikov received orders to capture Poznan. The city, designated a closed fortress by Hitler, had been fortified heavily, and the bloodletting lasted for over a month. Those who fell are now buried in Citadel Park, alongside the countless Polish troops who died alongside them. Today the chipped and fading graves of the twenty something’s who died make for poignant sightseeing, with stout gravestones erected in the shadow of a soaring obelisk set atop a steep staircase cut into the hill. The monument, bleak and faceless as it is, is typical of the severe and austere style associated with Socialist Realist architecture, and never ceases to impress in its size. Alas, the red star which once topped the column has long since gone, it’s post1989 toppling ending a long-enduring myth – for decades the people of Poz were convinced that hidden underneath it were a hoard of jewels seized by the conquerors during the German flight. Some 5,000 Polish troops fought alongside their Soviet comrades in the battle for Poznan, and this ‘brotherhood’ is remembered on Ratajczaka 35. Okraglak Poznań In Your Pocket Impressive as they are you won’t find a finer remnant of the Peoples’ Republic than on the western end of ul. Grudnia 27. It’s here you’ll be met by the sight of the Okraglak building, a cylindrical marvel that has come to be regarded as one of Poznan’s defining icons. Constructed between 1948 and 1955 the building is a leading example of Polish Modernism, and built to a blueprint sketched by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznan’s top department store, and it was here during the dark days of communism that locals would queue to find ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. Today, after years of abject neglect, work is underway to restore the beast to its former glory. Under the guiding hand of JEMS Architecki the building is to be turned into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space, with a completion date marked for 2010. As for Marek Leykam, the brainbox who designed this battle-pig, more of his work can be found in the shape of the University of Physical Education in Poznan, as well as in the capital – it was he who designed the Government Office on ul. Wspolna 62, as well as the 10th Anniversary Stadium (now under bulldozers as brickies go about the task of constructing a new national stadium ahead of the Euro 2012 football championships). But don’t make speed Warsaw way just yet – there’s still hammer and sickles aplenty, and best of all they’re found in pubs. Proletaryat (ul. Wroclawska 9) is the best known, and beyond the giant bust of Lenin standing in the window you’ll find a scaled down version of socialist paradise. Pics of Engels and Marx dominate a smoke clad interior, and the ever present queue for the toilet allows for plenty of opportunity to admire party manifestos and paintings of rabble rousing revolutionaries. Better still is PRL, a murky basement bar on the corner of Mokra and Zydowska. It’s here you’ll find two rooms of recovered communist loot, including riot shields once used to suppress protesters, pennants of Lenin and dog eared propaganda posters of workers who look delighted to be stacking bricks for pennies. Jolly good fun it is, but in all the mistyeyed reminisces it is to be remembered that communism proved an unflinchingly brutal system. Remind yourself as such by visiting the 1956 Poznan Uprising Museum (see What to See), a disturbing exhibition portraying the events that led to the first mass uprising against the JvM Communist system. poznan.inyourpocket.com 8 TOURIST TRAILS OF POZNAŃ the lion’s share of fortifications were defended by regular soldiers the locals also weighed in to do their bit with guilds and assorted associations manning certain towers – it’s for this reason certain defences became known as ‘Butchers Tower’ and ‘Tailors Tower’. There was even one guarded after by an ensemble of chimney sweeps. And don’t think for a moment these defences served a single purpose. Many of the towers had dual functions – St Catherine’s Tower has held a monastery since the 16th century, while the Fireman’s Tower was - guess what - home to the local fire station. Another was inhabited by the city executioner, and the Merchants Tower used as a dank prison. However as the centuries passed the defences became increasingly obsolete when faced with evolving military technology. By the time the 18th century came along many of the walls were a sorry sight having born the full brunt of countless sieges and artillery rounds. With the city now under Prussian rule it was decided to get rid of the majority of walls altogether, and many found themselves torn down to allow the city to grow outwards. Wroniecka Alex Webber Thus far summer in Poznan has proved every bit as wet as the ballroom on the Titanic. However, past history suggests microwave temperatures are around the corner, and should that prove the case you could do a lot worse than leaving your barstool, comfortable as it is, and following the tourist trails that now exist. The City Walls Back in the old days it was a good idea to have your city defended by a set of walls, and this was never truer than in the case of Poznan. This was, after all, a city continually facing attack from all sides – even Sweden. From its inception Poznan was craftily positioned, with a location between hills and floodplains adding an element of security to the habitants of the town. Even still it was necessary to add to these natural defences, and so over 1,700 metres of walls were constructed to ward off potential invaders. They stood seven metres high and one and half metres thick, and were supplemented with over 30 towers. Best of all, they worked – in 1331 the city was besieged for a week by King John of Luxembourg and survived to tell the tale. The middle of the 15th century saw the addition of an outer brick wall, itself fortified further with 12 towers and a network of moats. Many of these included gateways to the city, though for the most part new arrivals would head through entrances on ul. Wroclawska, Wodna, Wielka and Wroniecka. While Artillery Tower Poznań In Your Pocket Alex Webber In recent times work has been undertaken to unearth and restore some of these original fortifications, and today it’s possible to traipse around many of the defences that once kept the citizens of Poznan safe from outsiders. Most impressive of the lot is the stretch of wall that beings at the top of Wroniecka – from here a cobbled walkway, illuminated at night, has been added to run past St Catherine’s and the Fireman’s Tower, before concluding at the rotund looking Artillery Tower. For the full story, as well as a very handy map outlining the trails, pick up ‘The Historic City Wall of Poznan’, an excellent English language booklet available for free at Tourist Information. The Royal-Imperial Route One more route devised by the chaps at Tourist Info is The Royal-Imperial Route, an epic walk that takes in practically everything there is to see in the city. The name of the route springs from the city’s royal and imperial past – it’s in Poznan, of course, that Polish kings once resided, while later in history it was visited by two Tsars, Napoleon and Kaiser Wilhelm II. As such many of the highlights focus on these regal associations, though they’re certainly not limited to them alone. Included in the walk (which would surely take a few days to fully accomplish) are the Dancing Rooster House (a prime example of secessionist architecture) as well as the Ignacy Paderewski Musical Academy, which we’re assured is the only place in Europe to offer courses in violin making. Foldable maps are available for free in Tourist Information, though it’s also well worth spending 15zl on the accompanying booklet - a smashing tourist aid with the full lowdown on the sights on offer. Tourist Buses & Trams If you find walking a waste of energy then why not go mobile and take advantage of the ‘tourist buses and trams’ laid on by the city. Running till October 4th visitors can hit pretty much hit all the key sights by boarding vintage looking buses and trams that have been taken out of retirement. Green trams marked with a circle and a ‘0’ leave from Gajowa and poodle around the centre taking in numerous stops including Rondo Kaponiera, Plac Wolnosci and Most Sw. Rocha. Alternatively get the antique looking red bus with the number ‘100’ placed in the window. Journeys begin on Gajowa and stops include the edge of old town, Stary Browar, Ostrow Tumski and Lake Malta. Tickets cost 3zl for both bus and tram (2zl for kids), and you can also buy family tickets and all-day passes. For further details on routes and schedule pick up a leaflet from tourist information, or click your mouse in the direction of www.kmps.org.pl. poznan.inyourpocket.com TRADE FAIRS After Poland re-emerged on the map of Europe in 1918 with the advent of the second Polish Republic, the Poznań fair was instrumental in helping to re-integrate economic activities. It contributed to the task of creating a new Polish market and in demonstrating to the outside world Poland’s readiness for economic and commercial cooperation. It also helped with the complex task of unifying the three areas of Poland separated during the partitions and in which different fiscal, monetary and legal systems operated. In 1928, the city of Poznań and the Poznań International Fair held the Universal National Exhibition, which showed the world the achievements of the first decade of the new Polish state. Over 4.5 million people visited the fair, including delegations from many foreign countries. The Poznań International Fair was one of the few fairs that managed to survive the great economic crisis of 1929-1932 and by the outbreak of WWII it was considered one of Europe’s leading fairs. However, the war had a catastrophic ef fect on the International Fair complex. The Germans used the buildings for storage and to manufacture airplane parts. On Easter Sunday 1943, a day when no Poles were at the Fair, the British Royal Air Force bombed pavilions 5 and 8 as Stanisław Laskowski, the Fair’s president, looked on. Pavilion 5 was rebuilt in the 1970s with funds from the British Department of Trade and Industry. In 1946 rebuilding started on the same land and the first post-war fair was held under the title Fashion and Home (Odzież i dom). The Poznań International Fair started anew in 1947 but was once again forced to close - this time, in the years 1951-54, because of the atmosphere created by the Cold War. It was only in 1955, with the multi-product Poznań International Fair exhibit, that the Fair started cooperating with foreign countries again. August 22-23 Roltechnika September 2-4 Body Style, FAST FASHION Exhibition, Next Season, Tex-Style September 4-5 Poznań Optical Exhibition September 13-17 Polagra - Tech September 14-17 Gastro Trendy September 14-16 International Food Ingredients Show September 14-14 PAKFOOD . 2009 .10 September 14-17 Polagra - Food September 24-26 14th Congress of Dental Teams October 9-11 FARMA and Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back as far as 1254 when King Przemysław I granted special privileges to traders. Over the following centuries Poznań developed this trading tradition to the point where, in 1917, local merchants decided to develop a specialised fair institution. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe. Trade fair schedule Poz Ocotber 16-18 Extreme Arena ol Most foreign visitors to Central Europe are unfamilar with Poznań. However, those that do business in this part of the world know the city well. If you’re here on business you are probably already aware that Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital. It is estimated that over 60 percent of all trade fairs held in Poland are held in Poznań at the International Fair Centre. 21-2 4 10 nań, P October 16-18 Fantasy Arena October 16-18 Game Arena October 21-24 Invest – Hotel October 21-24 Tour Salon October 22-23 DISCOVER POLAND October 24-25 HOBBY Trade fairs Poznań International Fairs (Międzynarodowe Targi Poznańskie) E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. 061 869 20 00, fax 061 866 58 27, [email protected], www. mtp.pl. World Trade Center Poznań E-3, ul. Bukowska 12, tel. 061 866 10 50, [email protected]. pl, www.wtc-Poznań.com.pl. The WTC fosters world trade and promotes international business relationships. WTC runs a visitor information desk during every fair, where foreigners can get free fair passes and information on the relevant industrial sector in English, Russian and German. It also has a business centre and a bar.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Poznań In Your Pocket MiÚdzynarodowe Targi Poznañskie sp. z o.o. Poznañ International Fair Ltd. ul. Gïogowska 14, 60-734 Poznañ, Poland tel. +48 61 / 869 20 00, fax +48 61 / 869 29 69 e-mail: [email protected] poznan.inyourpocket.com 12 ARRIVING Arriving by bus PKS Poznań Bus Station is found on ul. Towarowa directly to the South West of the old town. There are no 24hr exchange bureaus (kantors) though one operates from between 09:00 and 18:00 - it's just outside the main building. You'll find a PKO ATM (bankomat) right next to here. A Tourist Info point is located next to the ticket booths and they provide information and maps alone. Left luggage can be found in the main building with lockers costing 4 and 8zł per day, depending on the size you opt for. If you don't trust the electronic lockers then leave your bags with the porter close to the toilet. Phone booths are found outside and phone cards can be bought from the newsagents. They'll also be able to sell you SIM cards and Pre-Paid cards for your mobile. A few taxis will usually stand outside the main hall and a trip to the centre will cost around 10zł. If none are waiting then give a reliable operator like MPT a call (061 19191). Trams 2 and 6 also run to the centre, as does bus 71. A 15 minute ticket costing 2.00zł is all that is needed. Validate it on boarding. Tickets are available from all kiosks. Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy) F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks. poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 06:00 - 19:30. Arriving by car The A2 leads into Poznań from east and west directions, and the A5 and the A11from south to north. Follow the signs for Poznań centrum to get into the heart of the city. If for some absolutely weird reason you find yourself driving through Poland with no Polish money than you can get your foreign bills exchanged at any kantors you see. The one in the train station is open around the clock, as is the one in the Hotel Rzymski (Al. Marcinkowskiego 22). ATMs (bankomats) are found scattered generously around, with a number found in the main square (Rynek). The most central Tourist Info point can be found in the main square (C-2, Stary Rynek 59-60), and they offer maps, guides and In Your Pocket. If you need to leave your luggage under lock and key somewhere then your best bet is your hotel. Alternatively, check luggage details as described in the bus and train stations. SIM cards and Pre-Pay cards can be purchased from all kiosks. Arriving by plane Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km west of central Poznan. On arrival there are two exchange bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand side of the exit. If you've got your card on you then there are two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from stocking Poznań's best guidebook, you can also purchase SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They'll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone. Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside the entrance, though if none should be waiting call a reputable operator like MPT (tel. 061 19191) or Radio Lux Taxi for something more flashy (tel. 061 19662). On the whole you'll pay around 25zł to get to town. Do be on the look out for cowboy drivers though, and only use taxis that are clearly marked with their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by getting a bus. There is a stop right outside the entrance with two Poznań In Your Pocket GETTING AROUND buses running from it: Line 59 (Airport-Bałtyk) heads to Rondo Kaponiera with journey time taking 30 minutes. It leaves every half an hour from around 05:00, the last one departing at approximately half past ten in the evening. Alternatively catch the Express Line L (Airport - Central Station). Journey time takes 20 minutes though there's only one bus per hour (from 05:00 to 21:45). At other times the airport is connected to the central train station by a night bus (line 242), with one an hour from 23:29 till 03:29. Journey time should take 30 minutes. Single tickets valid for the 30 minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł to any kiosk or from the driver. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www. airport-poznan.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs. Arriving by train Poznań's Central Railway Station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is to the west of the old town, right next to the trade fair. There is a 24hr currency exchange (kantor) in the main hall as well as a ATMs (bankomats) operated by PKO and WBK bank. Tourist Info, also in the hall, can sell phone cards, SIM cards, In Your Pocket, tram tickets, maps and more. Left luggage lockers can be found at the end of the main hall with small and large lockers priced at 4/8zł respectively per day. If you want someone to look after your bag then look for the sign directing you to Przechowalnia bagażu - there's one downstairs from platform 4. The price you pay is dependent on numerous factors, including what you claim your luggage to be worth. Frustrating? You bet. Phone booths are found around the main hall and cards to use them are available from newsagents and the Tourist Info point. You'll also be able to buy SIM cards and pre-paid cards for your mobile at the same places. Taxis to the main square will cost around 10-15zł, and there's always a constant line standing outside. Bus 51 also runs to the city centre with buses leaving every 15 minutes. The service runs from 04:51 to 23:16. Buy a 15 minute ticket for the journey. They'll set you back 2.00zł and can be purchased from newsagents. Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl. Car rental By bus Avis ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 849 23 35, w w w.avis.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day. Hertz ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 868 41 77, www.hertz.com.pl. Twenty-four hour number 0 605 15 04 23. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Eur opcar ul. Bu- kowska 285 (Ławica Airpor t), tel. 061 849 23 57, w w w. europcar.pl. Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies in Poland offering many rental options (both short and long term) that will suit all needs (8 different categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs. In doing so we deliver excellence in services and benefits that are tailored to fulfil your specific requirements. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Lucas Car Rental ul. Rolna 35 (Wilda), tel. 061 670 75 75, www.lucasrental.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Sun open on request. National ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 0 501 33 64 42, www.nationalcar.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun Open on request. Poznań lies on the main highway (E30) between Warsaw and Berlin, and is served by frequent Eurolines buses. While the bus station is not one of the most modern you are likely to visit, it does have all the services you will need including toilets, tourist information and left luggage lockers. Eurolines C-3, ul. Półwiejska 41, tel. 061 853 12 28, www.eurolinespolska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy) F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www. pks.poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 05:30 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 06:30-19:30. By car Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Driving around Poznań’s one way streets can be trying and as the Market Square is closed to traffic you may have to drive half way around the city to get from one side to the other. Most parking spaces in Poznań are paid and marked by a blue line. Fancy parking meters need chip-cards, costing 1.20zł/ half hour and 2.40zł/hour weekdays 10:00 - 18:00 and Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Chip cards are sold in some shops, cafés and from the parking authority SOP. A combination of traffic jams and car crime make it advisable to leave your car in one of the guarded car parks dotted around the city and use the local transport system to get around. Guarded Parking E-3, ul. Roosvelta (Hotel Mercure). Guarded Parking G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36. City Card The Poznan local government offer a city card for visitors which allows you to visit the city’s attractions while enjoying either free admission or discounted prices. Incorporating free travel on the city’s public transport system as part of the price, you will be given a guide along with the card explaining how to use it and informing you of which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres, cinemas and other attractions such as the zoos). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city such as Kornik Castle and you can enjoy the additional benefit of using the card there for an extra day in addition to the number of days that the card is valid in the city. Cards cost 30zl for 1-day, 40zl for 2-days and 45zl for 3-days and can be purchased from: City Information Centre on ul. Ratajczaka 44, Tourist Information Centre on the Market Square, and the Glob-Tour office in Poznan railway station as well as at selected hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznan City Card has been marked with a Y symbol. poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 13 14 GETTING AROUND Public transport Poznań is criss-crossed by 20 tram routes (of which one runs at night), and 56 bus lines (21 at night). During the day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams running approximately every ten minutes, and buses every twelve. When buying a ticket travellers are presented with a galaxy of options. Fares are as follows: Tram/bus tickets: Journeys of up to fifteen minutes: 2.00zł (concessions 1.00zł) Up to 30 minutes: 3.60zł (1.80zł) Up to 60 minutes: 5.80zł (2.90zł) There are also express lines which run to the airport amongst other places and whose numbers are prefixed with either ‘A’, ‘P’ or ‘L’. Express lines for up to 15 minutes: 4.00zł (2.00zł) Express lines for up to 30 minutes: 7.20zł (3.60zł) Express lines for up to 60 minutes: 11.60zł (5.80zł) Tickets valid for 24 hours are also available (13.20zł/6.60zł), as are weekly passes (32zł/16zł). If you thought it couldn’t get anymore complicated you’d be wrong. Those using the bus (and bus only), can also choose from one ride tickets for up to ten stops (2.20zł/1.10zł), for over ten stops (3.60zł/1.80zł), as well as express and seasonal lines for up to ten stops (4.20zł/2.10zł), and over ten stops (7.00zł/3.50zł). GETTING AROUND Children under four and adults over 70 travel for free, and discounts are available for students aged under 26 and youths in possession of an ISIC card. Tickets can be purchased from the newsagent kiosks around town and the Polish word for ticket is ‘bilet’. Long term visitors can also buy a KOMkarta, an electronic card that is valid for 30 days. These can be purchased from one of the eleven MPK ticket points in the city, and then topped up in the same place, or at one of the Ruch kiosks you see around the town. Our advice if you are here for a few days is to pick up the Poznan City Card which gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches. It is extremely important that you remember to validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/ tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticket and find yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll be fined 100zł on the spot. Many don’t look very official so you are within your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to pay within seven days (in which case the fine rises to 140zł), or within 14 days (200zł). Foreigners thinking they can slip out of the country without paying up are in for a nasty surprise. You’re passport details will have been noted, and border guards will gleefully place you in custody - it’s not worth the trouble, trust us. Finally, although crime is rare be on guard against pickpockets, par ticularly if making the journey to and from the airport. By plane Poznań Ławica international airport is 7km west of the city. To get to the airport take bus N°59 which runs every 25 minutes (every 30 minutes on weekends) or bus N°L which run every hour from bus stops in and around the city centre. Services run from around 05:00 until 23:00. By taxi you can expect to pay between 25-30zł if you use a reputable firm. The airport features a VIP lounge as well as ATMs, internet cafe and car rental stands. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www. airport-poznan.com.pl. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km west of central Poznan. There are two exchange bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand side of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then there are two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from stocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone. Getting to there from town is a cinch. On the whole you’ll pay around 25zł to get there from town by taxi. Only use taxis that are clearly marked with their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by getting a bus. From Rondo Kaponiera catch the number 59, or from the train station catch the express line L. At other times the airport is connected from the central train station by a night bus (line 242). Single tickets valid for the 30 minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł to any kiosk or from the driver. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.Q Open 24hrs. Taxis Most taxis these days are reliable and use their metres but be aware of rogue taxis which hang around train stations and certain hotels. Make sure that your cab as a sign on the roof marked with the name of the company rather than just a simple ‘taxi’ sign. Once inside make sure the driver turns on the metre and you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver should now have a cash register in the cab and is obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. You should expect to pay 5zl for entering the taxi followed by 2zl per kilometre. Prices rise at weekends and late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. Taxis are obliged to display their prices in the windows of the cab so you can compare and check prices. Note that many firms offer a discount to their published prices if you phone and book one in advance. Express Taxi , tel. 061 196 24, www.taxiexpress.pl. Also vans and microbuses. Hallo Taxi , tel. 061 196 23. M1 taxi , tel. 061 96 69/061 822 22 22. MPT Taxi , tel. 061 191 91. Radio Lux Taxi , tel. 061 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl. Poznan’s most reliable taxi firm. All taxis are Mercedes and drivers wear a collar and tie. Ordering a taxi in Poland can still be a lottery as there are no apparent standards for how the taxi should look so if you want to make sure that you or your guest is picked up by something that doesn’t look like it has a dog sleeping in the back you should really give these guys a call. They also accept credit cards. Radio Taxi Poznań , tel. 061 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl. Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com Mail & Phones Internet cafes Cafe Cz@towa ul. Głogowska 142 (Grunwald), tel. 061 661 55 31. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 3.50zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning services available. Ecafe F-3, ul. Roosevelta 10/5, tel. 061 843 26 69, www.ecafe.net.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 5zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning services available. Post Main Post Office (Główny Urząd Pocztowy) A-2, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. 061 869 74 08, www. poczta-polska.pl. The main post office is relatively user-friendly with none of the automated ticket machines found in so many of Poland’s post offices. Here you simply join whichever queue is smallest and hope for the best. Stamps are available from all windows.QOpen 07:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Post Office C-1, ul. 23 Lutego 28, tel. 061 886 55 01, www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061 886 55 19, www.poczta-polska.pl. The post office in the old town area. Send and receive packages and letters from windows N°1-3, and buy stamps at N°2 and 3. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office (Poczta Polska) os. Orła Białego 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 886 57 01, www.pocztapolska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Public phones After being virtually wiped out, pay phones in Poznań have made an inexplicable comeback. As such, many are new and actually work. Almost all of them require you use a phone card with an electronic chip, which can be obtained at most kiosks, but not all, so it may take some perseverance to track one down. The magic words are ‘Proszę kartę telefoniczną.’ Easy Call Forget calling cards, all you need to make a cheap call from landlines is a credit card. Dial toll-free to 0800 909 444 and follow the instructions in English. A call to London is only 0,60zł a minute. Travel agencies Almatur B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9/43 (entrance from ul. Ratajczaka 8), tel. 061 855 76 33, www.almatur.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Blue Sky Travel F-2, ul. Roosevelta 2, tel. 061 841 09 00, www.bluesky.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Fly Away Travel D-1, ul. Wroniecka 17, tel. 061 853 03 57, www.flyaway.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Orbis Travel C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 21, tel. 061 851 20 00, www.orbistravel.poznan.pl. Q Open 09:30-17:30, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun. Tui Centrum Podróży E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 7, tel. 061 847 11 78, www.tui.pl/wct. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July - October 2009 15 BASICS GETTING AROUND Train schedule Train smarts The facts Market values From Poznań To Poznań Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr. 10:27 13:15 BERLIN Ostbf 06:40 09:27 14:27 17:27 BERLIN Hbf 12:29 15:27 02:02 09:18 KRAKÓW 05:47 13:12 05:47 13:19 KRAKÓW 07:47 15:12 07:35 15:19 KRAKÓW 12:47 20:11 12:35 20:18 KRAKÓW 15:47 23:07 08:23 14:18 GDYNIA 04:37 09:37 12:23 18:22 GDYNIA 10:31 15:34 14:15 20:06 GDYNIA 14:30 19:30 02:20 06:05 WARSAW 05:55 09:19 07:00 10:00 WARSAW 07:35 10:24 09:30 12:20 WARSAW 09:55 13:28 10:26 14:05 WARSAW 11:35 14:24 12:30 15:20 WARSAW 12:35 15:26 15:30 18:20 WARSAW 16:35 19:24 16:30 19:20 WARSAW 17:35 20:30 19:30 22:20 WARSAW 18:00 21:32 06:45 09:20 WROCŁAW 07:35 10:32 07:35 10:20 WROCŁAW 10:06 12:27 09:40 12:20 WROCŁAW 12:38 15:12 13:46 16:50 WROCŁAW 14:06 16:27 14:35 17:20 WROCŁAW 15:35 18:07 15:35 18:02 WROCŁAW 15:54 18:57 18:35 21:19 WROCŁAW 16:35 19:15 19:45 22:20 WROCŁAW 19:35 22:12 Most trains running to and from Gdynia (Berlin apart) stop at Gdańsk and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutes to Gdańsk and 10 to Sopot. Trains are subject to change on public holidays. Train schedule is subject to change due to ongoing works (track improvements). For a full schedule check www.pkp.pl The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if the rolling stock is by and large something you may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, are cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally pretty slow even on express and Intercity trains with limited high-speed sections of track throughout the country. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very cheap with a first -class ticket to Krakow from Warsaw for instance setting you back about 140zl (about €30). Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km). Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of 22nd June 2009 based on €1 = 4.50zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) McDonald's Big Mac 7,70 zł € 1,71 Snickers 1,50 zł € 0,33 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 25,00 zł € 5,56 0.5ltr beer (shop) 3,10 zł € 0,69 0.5ltr beer (bar) 7,00 zł € 1,56 Loaf of white bread 2,10 zł € 0,47 20 Marlboros 9,95 zł € 2,21 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 4,52 zł € 1,00 Local transport ticket (15 mins) 2,00 zł € 0,44 The main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the fairgrounds and about 10 minutes by taxi from the Market Square. There is a Poznań City Information (Informacja Miejska Poznan) counter in the station, however your best bet is Glob-Tour, a private tourist office-cum-bookshop that sells guides, maps and organises apartment rental. GlobTour also exchanges currency. If you are only staying for a couple of hours leave your luggage in the left luggage room (przechowalnia bagażu). It costs 2zł per item per day plus 1.5% of value in your bag; Open 06:00 to 22:30. Tram and bus tickets can be bought from the MPK kiosk on the right when leaving the train station building, open 06:00 - 20:00. Tickets for domestic trains can be bought at windows N°2-14 in the main hall and while most are open 24hrs you will find queues. Do allow yourself time to get your ticket although it is now possible to purchase tickets on board the train for a small fee. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows, but talk to the information office first. Trains are reached by heading into the tunnel under the Relay newsagents where you will see signs for the different platforms (peron). The station has a coffee shop, KFC and a few snack bars but if you have time to kill, it is recommended to take the 10 minute walk over to the nearby Sheraton where you can wait for your train in comfortable surroundings without being bothered by beggars every 2 minutes. Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl. Buy domestic tickets at windows N°2-14 in the main hall, most are open 24hrs. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows, but talk to the information office first. Poznań In Your Pocket With the exception of pociąg osobowy trains, ticket prices include a seperate seat reservation charge. More information on train times and prices check the very useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English option. There is the functionality to book tickets online once you have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp). This option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 9zł), and credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzien dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passengers will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage. Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. Population (2007) Poland 38,126,000 Warsaw 1,702,139 Kraków 756,267 Łódź 755,251 Wrocław 634,630 Poznań 564,951 Gdańsk 456,658 Katowice 314,500 Sopot 40,666 Local time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Twin Towns Assen, Brno, Hannover, Jyväskylä, Kharkiv, Nablus, Nottinghamshire, Pozuelo de Alarcón, Rennes, Shenzhen, Toledo. Climate 20 80 Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may have the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a woman who has no qualms with silencing errant children with a thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a compartment with perky army discharges. Upgrading to first class for a cursory fee is usually enough to avoid these pitfalls. Finally most stations throughout the country are appalling lacking in signs denoting the station name and it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and frustration. 18,1 Rainfall Temperature 70 17,8 16,3 15 60 13,5 13,3 50 10 8,6 7,9 40 5 30 3,4 3,4 20 -0,2 0,5 -1,0 -5 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Institute of Meteorology and Water Management, www.imgw.pl poznan.inyourpocket.com 0 10 0 Arrivals Przyjazdy Departures Odjazdy Platform Peron Booze While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a szarlotka – a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade of bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankering for something a little more fiery should look no further than ordering a Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more to look for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser - a sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf. But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. A trip to the drunk tank at ul. Podolanska 46 will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest will find absolutely no improvement to their situation. Rather hospitably, refreshment comes In the form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will smell of urine for a reason. Customs poznan.inyourpocket.com Temperature (°C) By train The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trains are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot, with first and second class compartments holding up to six people. New rolling stock is appearing with open carriages and 220v AV sockets. Ekspress are supposed to be older and slower and pack more people into less space than the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearing as both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either of the above for long-distance journeys. Both come with dining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleep will incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers should not make the mistake of booking a seat in a smoking compartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Tanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy (os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your journey is guaranteed to try your good humour. Longest River The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the Odra at Szczecin. Rainfall (mm) 16 If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good' and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If the gallery or shop can't supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator's Office). If a book was printed before 1945, you'll need permission from the National Library to take it out of Poland. Electricity Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don't have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave. July - October 2009 17 18 BASICS BASICS Language smarts Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers. On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish. Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Basic pronunciation of consonants ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ and ‘dż’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but one syllable. Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get you started. Civilities cześć dzień dobry dobry wieczór dobranoc tak nie proszę na zdrowie dziękuje przepraszam kocham cię Mam na imię Jestem z Anglii (cheshch) (jen do-bri) hi/bye good morning/ afternoon (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening (dobrah-nots) good night (tahk) yes (nyeh) no (prosheh) please (nah zdrovyeh) cheers (jen-koo-yeh) thank you (psheh-prasham) sorry (koham tshe) I love you (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is (yehstem zanglee) I am from England Necessities Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee po angielsku? pan/panee po angyelskoo?) Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po polsku polskoo) Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh napeesatch) Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too paleech?) Jedno piwo (yedno peevo pohpoproszę prosheh) Numbers 1 2 3 10 jeden dwa trzy dziesięć General Airport Train station Bus station Right/left One ticket to First/second class lotnisko dworzec pkp dworzec pks prawo/lewo jeden bilet do pierwsza/druga klasa Poznań In Your Pocket Where are the toilets? Do you (male/female) speak English? I don’t speak Polish Please write it down Can I smoke here? One beer please yehden dva tshi jayshench Flowers National holidays As in much of Eastern Europe the giving of flowers comes with a sophisticated set of rules. Should you wish to stay on the right side of your lover, parents-in-law, etc pay heed to the following. Always give an odd number of flowers (or stems) unless the occasion is a solemn one. If visiting somebody with flowers be sure to remove the paper before you arrive. Decorative foil can be left on. Always give flowers with your left hand in order to shake or kiss the right hand of the recipient. Attention should also be paid to colour. If you're proposing, then it's red for your fiancée and pink for her mother. Pink flowers are also considered the most neutral, so when in doubt use those. Yellow is the colour of envy, chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations remain unpopular, especially among women, due to their communist connotations. Good luck. January 1 New Year’s Day April 12, 2009 Easter Sunday April 13, 2009 Easter Monday May 1 Labour Day May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) May 31, 2009 Pentecost Sunday June 11, 2009 Corpus Christi August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also Polish Army Day November 1 All Saints’ Day November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) December 25 First Day of Christmas December 26 Second Day of Christmas Health & Emergency In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistics capabilities of the call operator. From June 2 till September 30 English, German or Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line specifically designed for foreigners in trouble. If that sounds like you then you'll need to call 0 800 200 300. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found online. If you've run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail you out, and you're hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo. Money Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł. at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the mistake of being patient. ‘I'm late for something, can I go first' is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up their place in a line. Old people in particular seem to assume that they should by rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The only time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are in banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assume a stance as far as possible from the next man, often leading to confusion who is and who isn't queuing in the first place. Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ a ticket system to help organize queues. Religion For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Safety In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you're in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the international routes connecting Warsaw and Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. Queuing Smoking Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the nether-regions of the venue. Tipping Tipping etiquette in Poland can be confusing for foreigners. While in other countries it’s polite to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word thank you is taken as a sign that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very expensive. What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to make you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get anything back after realizing your mistake. For the most part it is common to reward good service with a 10% tip once you have received your change. Toilets Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you've already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also used in train stations and most public conveniences. Water Not a problem in new buildings, but clapped out plumbing in the older places mean that you shouldn't be surprised if orange gunk comes pouring out of the tap. In general Poznań water is safe to drink though it tastes nasty and occasionally looks worse. No problems are associated with using it to brush your teeth, though bottled water is extremely inexpensive and easy to find. Quick currency convertor PLN 1 zł 2 zł 3 zł 4 zł 5 zł 6 zł 7 zł 8 zł 9 zł 10 zł 20 zł 50 zł 100 zł 150 zł 200 zł 250 zł 1 000 zł US$ 3,24zł = $1 $0,31 $0,62 $0,93 $1,23 $1,54 $1,85 $2,16 $2,47 $2,78 $3,09 $6,17 $15,43 $30,86 $46,30 $61,73 $77,16 $308,64 Euro 4,50zł = €1 € 0,22 € 0,44 € 0,67 € 0,89 € 1,11 € 1,33 € 1,56 € 1,78 € 2,00 € 2,22 € 4,44 € 11,11 € 22,22 € 33,33 € 44,44 € 55,56 € 222,22 Pound 5.34zł = £1 £0,19 £0,37 £0,56 £0,75 £0,94 £1,12 £1,31 £1,50 £1,69 £1,87 £3,75 £9,36 £18,73 £28,09 £37,45 £46,82 £187,27 July - October 2009 19 20 CULTURE & EVENTS Castle Cultural Centre CULTURE & EVENTS As far as culture is concerned Poznań has an enormous amount to offer. There are theatres and concert halls with the Poznań Philharmonic, The Great Theatre and Polish Dance Theatre to the fore. Events, concerts, exhibitions and festivals are all organised by the Castle Cutural Centre which covers Poznań and Estrada Poznańska. Other festivals include the Duende International Flamenco Festival, Tzadik Poznań Festival, Animator, Malta International Theatre Festival and World Press Photo exhibition. If that doesn't puff you out, try the marathon, the biggest in the country. Art Galleries ABC Gallery (Galeria ABC) D-3, ul. Garbary 38/6, tel. 061 853 02 91, www.abcgallery.pl. Modern art exhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Arsenal City Gallery (Galeria Miejska Arsenał) Castle Cultural Centre (Centum Kultury Zamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Built originally as a royal residence (see what to see) at the turn of the 20th century by Franz Schwechten to a design ordered by Kaiser Wilhelm II, today this is one of Poland’s biggest cultural institutions. Hosting over 700 events annually in its palatial halls, rooms and courtyard, the building acts as a theatre, gallery, cinema and concert venue. The centre is well-known throught Poland and abroad and often cooperates with other cultural institutions to host exhibitions, film screenings, plays, conferences and educational workshops. Q Box office open 11:00-19:00, Closed Mon. Admission depending on repertoire. 08.07 Wednesday - 03.09 Thursday Music Plus Theatre in the Castle Courtyards A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. A wide choice of Polish groups are on show in this cycle of concerts in the courtyards of the castle cultural centre. Get the latest info at www.inyourpocket.com The line up looks like this: 08.07 Wednesday 21:30 Maria Peszek 09.07 Thursday 21:30 Raz Dwa Trzy 14.07 Tuesday 21:30 Teatro Tascabile 15.07 Wednesday 21:30 Bester Quartet 16.07 Thursday 21:30 Pinnawela/Audiofeels 22.07 Wednesday 21:30 Motion Trio 23.07 Thursday 21:30 Katarzyna Groniec 29.07 Wednesday 21:30 Tymański Jass Ensemble 30.07 Thursday 21:30 Mariusz Lubomski 05.08 Wednesday 21:00 Martyna Jakubowicz 06.08 Thursday 21:00 Łąki Łan 12.08 Wednesday 21:00 Kasa Chorych 13.08 Thursday 21:00 Pogodno 19.08 Wednesday 21:00 Iwona Loranc 26.08 Wednesday 21:00 Komety 27.08 Thursday 21:00 Ares&The Tribe 03.09 Thursday 20:00 Lao Che QTicket prices comming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre (Open 11:00 - 19:00). Poznań In Your Pocket C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal. art.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł. Artistic Ceramics (Ceramika Artystyczna) D-2, ul. Woźna 4, tel. 061 853 02 35. Ceramics, cups and teapots. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Ego Gallery (Galeria Ego) C-2, ul. Wrocławska 19, tel. 061 853 15 81, www.galeriaego.pl. Modern art gallery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. FS Gallery (Galeria FS) A-2, ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. 061 853 79 86, www.galeriafs.com.pl. Paintings, sculptures, artistic glass, graphics and jewellery. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Admission free. Garbary 48 Gallery (Galeria Garbary 48) D-3, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com. pl. Contemporary Polish paintings, sculptures and graphics. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Renes Gallery (Galeria Renes) D-2, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. 061 855 75 42, www.renes.com.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Polish artists. Also on ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar). QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Techne Gallery (Galeria Techne) B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 851 85 43, www.galeriatechne.pl. Polish glass, ceramic and clay design objects and jewellery. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Ventzi Gallery (Galeria Ventzi) D-3, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 3/8, tel. 0 501 63 20 92, www.ventzi.art.pl. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free. Cinemas Polish cinemas show most of the big international releases in the original language with Polish subtitles. Be warned though that most kids' films (and that includes cartoons like South Park) are dubbed. Apollo B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 18, tel. 061 851 76 34, www.apollo.poznan.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 15-18zł. Cinema City Plaza / Orange IMAX Winogrady, ul. Drużbickiego 2, tel. 061 662 62 62, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open 09:00 - 22:45. Tickets 13-28zł. Malta Charlie & Marilyn I-3, ul. Filipińska 5, tel. 061 877 24 95, www.kinomalta.pl. You can have a projection of your favourite movies on request! Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 12-15zł. Multikino 51 G-4, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, tel. 061 624 09 10, www.multikino.pl. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar, F-4). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 15-23zł. poznan.inyourpocket.com Muza B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. 061 852 34 03, www. kinomuza.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 5-15zł. Y Pałacowe A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 04, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Q Box office open 11:0019:00.9/06. Tickets 10-20zł. U Rialto E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 061 847 53 99, www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 8-15zł. Dance & Music Buy tickets online As always, a full, regularly updated and expanded list of Katowice events appears on our website, www.katowice. inyourpocket.com, where you can also watch accompanying videos of many performers. Now, through cooperation with our well-cultured friends at Eventim – Europe’s leading ticket distributer – visitors to our website can instantly buy tickets for applicable events and festivals in Katowice and around Poland. Simply look for the ‘Buy tickets’ icon on the right-hand side of events listings; a mouse-click takes you to Eventim’s website which is in Polish and English. Add a little culture to your credit card balance. Great Theatre (Teatr Wielki) A-1, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. The name is a bit of a misnomer as the Great Theatre today is home to Opera and Ballet. Built in 1910 by Max Littman as a city theatre house for the German population of what was then Prussian Posen, the last German peformance was held in 1919 before the Wielkopolska Uprising. Plays continued to be performed until 1924 when it became a full-time home to Polish Opera. Under the Nazis the building received a renovation led by the German architect Paul Bankarten but was soon caught up in the whirlwind of WWII where it served as a hospital for wounded German soldiers between 1943 and 1945. Despite extensive damage to the city of Poznan in the German retreat to Berlin, the 'theatre' was able to begin performances of Opera and Ballet again in 1945, something which has continued to this day. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed June 28 - September 15. Tickets 10-45zł. Y Museums National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www.mnp.art.pl. An excellent museum, whose history dates back to the 1870s, with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, Sat free. Y Great theatre © K. Citak Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny) G-4, ul. Niezłomnych 1e, tel. 061 852 29 27, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl. Q Box Office Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 14:00, Sat 15:00 - 18:00, Sun two hours before performance. Closed June 14 - September 15. Tickets 15-40zł. Poznań Estrada C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33, www.estrada.poznan.pl. An organisation which promotes some of the most interesting cultural and artistic events from the Polish and International stage. Today it hosts 'Stage on the Floor' where once the famous Teatr Osmego Dnia (the 8th Day Theatre) used to perform. This was one of the most successful student originated theatre groups of its time in the 60's and 70's and Estrada Poznanska are aiming to recreate the legend. Amongst the 70 or so concerts, plays and cabaret performances which they promote each year are 'Made in Jazz', School Confrontations with Art and Events worth meeting (Imprezy warte Poznania). Check out their English language website for more details and for dates of upcoming concerts. The Ignacy Jan Paderewski Academy of Music in Poznan (Akademia Muzyczna im. Ignacego Jana Paderewskiego w Poznaniu) F-3, ul. Św. Marcin 87, tel. 061 856 89 00, www.amuz.edu.pl. poznan.inyourpocket.com Theatres Animation Theatre (Teatr Animacji) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 69 64, www.teatranimacji. pl. Children's theatre. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon. Tickets 16/14zł. Eighth Day Theatre (Teatr Ósmego Dnia) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 855 20 86, www.osmego.art. pl. Alternative theatre. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed July 1 - August 31. Tickets 12-20zł. New Theatre (Teatr Nowy) E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, tel. 061 847 24 40, www.teatrnowy.pl. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Closed June 19 - September 15. Tickets 20-50zł. Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski) B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 8/10, tel. 061 852 56 28, www.teatr-polski.pl. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun on spectacle days only. Closed Mon. Tickets 20-35zł. Tickets City Information Centre B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. The city information office sells tickets for most concerts also on-line, and can inform you of the theatre programme. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. July - October 2009 21 22 CULTURE & EVENTS Animator Festival 2009 06.07 Monday - 11.07 Thursday Animator Festival 2009 tel. 061 852 88 33, www.animator-festival. com. Poland’s largest event honouring the work of anima tors sees i ts second staging with the scope wider than last year. There’s a retrospective on the achievements of Alexander Alexeieff, who invented a screen up to the demands of modern animation techniques. However, it’s not all about the nitty-gritty of animation per se. There are sessions focusing on doll theatre and there will be music theatre and performances. Another accent this year will be on music and animation with many screenings accompanied by soundtracks. It all takes place in a number of locations: Arsenał Gallery (Stary Rynek 3, C-2), Castle Cultural Centre (ul. Św. Marcina 80-82, A-2), Multikino (ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, G-4) and the Festival Club (Stary Rynek, C-2). There will be indoor and outdoor screenings and that’s not all, you can attend workshops, meetings, concerts. The festival will be accompanied by the 2nd International Animated Film competition where an international jury will award three main prizes of 60,000, 30,000 and 20,000zł. There are a number of other attractions including Bring Me the Head of Ubu Roi and The American Magic-Lantern Theatre which you can read more about in this section. There will be a cycle of performances entitled Animation and Musicduring which you can see a presentation of David Ehrlich films. There will also be a concert by the rock group Von Zeit with animations created live by Robert Turło. The group Companiia d’Arte Drummatica from Italy and jazz group Chicago Underground Trio from USA will play live music. Special guests this year will be led by Bill Plympton. This American director and comics’ author has had his work published in such magazines as Vanity Fair, The Times and Vogue. His first film ‘My Face’ brought him an Oscar nomination.There will also be an appearance by Yoram Gross, an Australian producer and animation director, honored at the highest level at home. His major works include ‘Joseph the Dreamer’,’ Chansons sans Paroles’ and ‘One Pound only’.Also present this year will be Jan Švankmajer Q Full schedule available at www.animatorfestival.com. Ticket prices coming soon. 08.07 Wednesday The American Magic-Lantern Theater A-2, CK Zamek, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www. animator-festival.com. T h e A m eri can Ma gi cLan tern Th eatre Company have the distiction of being the only travelling theatre of its type in America. For those of you who don’t know, the Victorian ‘Laterna Magica’ is a forgotten performance art, a mixture of stage play and slides shown with the aid of a lantern. They have been described as a ‘National Live Treasure’ by National Public Radio. It’s for free and sounds well worth the effort.Q Event starts at 16:00. Admission free. Poznań In Your Pocket CULTURE & EVENTS July 17.07 Tuesday - 19.07 Sunday 01.07 Wednesday - 26.08 Wednesday C-2, Poznań Bazaar, ul. Paderewskiego 8, w w w. tzadikpoznanfestival.pl. This festi val of ar t, music and poetr y, which began in 2007, aims to develop a mul ticul tural dialogue wi th Jewish cul ture in Poznan. It's par t of a process where Poznan will encounter its Jewish histor y.The hope is to help revitalise the synagogue and at the same time overcome mutual historic resentment and encourage reconciliation. This year we will get a chance to listen to concer ts from the best Jewish music has to offer:Uri Caine, Mark Feldman, La Mar Enfor tuna and others. Q Full schedule available at w w w.tzadikpoznanfestival.pl. Tickets 100-300zł. Available at w w w.eventim.pl. Old Town Hall Summer Concerts C-2, Old Town Hall, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 856 81 91, www.amuz.poznan.pl. These concerts will be performed by current students, graduates and staff at The I.J. Paderewski Academy of Music in Poznan. They take place every Wednesday in the Renaissance room at the Old Town Hall. Admission is free but the audience is limited to 100 people so get there early to make sure of a seat.Q Concerts start at 17:00. Admission free. 01.07 Wednesday Klaus Paier & Radio String Quartet Vienna A-1, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 0 61 657 07 77, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Austrian Klaus Paier plays accordion, which makes a change. His music has been described as spontaneous and combines jazz, tango nuevo and folk. For this concert he will perform with the Radio String Quartet of Vienna. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Ticket prices were undecided at press time. Please check website for updates as they happen. 08.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Sunday Flashback Exibition of Hieronim Neumann C-2, Arsenal City Gallery, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal.art.pl. Hieronim Neumann, for those of us not au fait with these things, is one of the leading lights in the Polish experimental animated film movement. In room 1 of this exhibition there are over 100 stills from his films. Room 2 contains looped fragments of Neumann's animated productions as well as oil paintings including a 3-metre-long tryptich. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł. 08.07 Wednesday Jane's Addiction E-4, Poznań International Fair, Głogowska 14, tel. 061 646 52 43, www.malta-festival.pl. Jane's Addiction started in 1985, which makes me feel veeery old indeed. This will be the third reunion for vocalist Perry Farrella, bassist Eric Avery and the boys. Just think, they almost broke up the band during recording... their debut album. If you're new to them, they play mad surfy punk - 'Standing in the shower thinking' will always be a favourite, the first two albums are classics.Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 95-225zł. Available at www. eventim.pl. 08.07 Wednesday Maria Peszek A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. This feisty singer, songwriter and actress hails from a family of actors and graduated from acting school in Kraków in 2004. In 2005, her debut album/theatre project, Miasto Mania, went platinum thanks in part for her penchant for controversial lyrics. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Ticket prices coming soon. 14.07 Tuesday Teatro Tascabile A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Since its inception in 1973 this theatre group has put on 105 productions, performing over 4000 times to a total of almost 1 million people at the most important theatre festivals all over the world. Very impressive stuff.Q Event starts at 21:30. Ticket prices coming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00). poznan.inyourpocket.com Tzadik Poznań Festiwal 29.07 Wednesday Tymański Jass Ensemble Animator Festival 2009 09.07 Thursday Animator Festival - Sacre Proutto C-1, Scena Na Piętrze, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 061 850 16 55, www.animator-festival.com. This doll play is a part of “From Pataphisics to Panic” section, don’t try looking it up in your dictionaries, it isn’t there - you’ll have to go along and see for yourself. The plot is based on the story by Roland Topor ‘Sacré Livre de Proutto’ - The Holy Book of the Damned Proutto and is directed by Elżbieta Jeznach. Interesting...Q Event starts at 21:00. Admission free. 09.07 Thursday Animator Festival - Chicago Underground Duo A-2, Castle Cultural Centr e, ul. Św. Mar cina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Tymański is a Polish composer, mul ti-instrumentalist, poet and sin ger. His music can b e describ ed as a mi xture of jazz, funk, pop and rock, bu t i t is reall y difficul t to categorise. I f that wasn't enough, he has also composed music to well-known movies including Sz tos and Wesele. Q Concer t star ts at 21:30. Ticket prices comming soon. Available at Castle Cul tural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00). August 05.08 Wednesday Martyna Jakubowicz A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Voted one of the Top 100 Women in Poland the chanteuse and guitarist Martyna Jakubowicz has been performing blues since 1981, with past appearances at some of the biggest musical events in Poland - Rawa Blues and The Polish Woodstock, for instance. Tonight she'll be performing the hits that made her famous. Q Concert starts at 21:30. Ticket prices coming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00). 21.08 Friday - 20.09 Sunday Painting and Drawing - Artur Nacht-Samborski C-2, Arsenal City Gallery, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal.art.pl. Nacht-Samborski was a leading representative of the art movement known as the Sopot School. In his work he focussed mainly on 3 subjects, still life, women and landscapes, exploring them in a myriad of ways.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł. 25.08 Tuesday Nazareth Eskulap, ul. Pr zybys zewskiego 39 (Grunwald), tel. 0 607 81 62 70, w w w.eskulap.ar t.pl. 1968 wa s a go o d y e a r i n S c o t l a n d . T h e y h a d b e a t e n E n glan d a t Wem bl ey t h e summ er b efore an d t h e last stra g gl ers of th e Tar tan Arm y finall y mad e i t h om e. I t also saw th e foun din g of ro ck b eh emoth s Na zareth. This summ er se es th em visi t Polan d for a tour aroun d 12 ci ties as well as an appearan ce a t th e Ro ck Legen ds Festi val in Słupsk wh ere we can expe c t to h ear old favouri tes an d ma terial from last year's album 'Th e Newz'. Q Concer t star ts at 20:00. Ti cke t pri c e s were un d e ci d e d a t pre s en t. Ch e ck websi te for upda tes as th ey happen. poznan.inyourpocket.com C-2, Ar t Passage, Rynek Główny, tel. w w w. animator-festival.com, w w w.animator-festival. com. The Chicago Underground Duo are Rob Mazurek and Chad Taylor. Mazurek is a cornetist, composer and multimedia artist. He is the founder and leader of the Exploding Star Orchestra, Chicago Underground, Mandarin Movie and Sao Paulo Underground, all well known on the Chicago music scene. Taylor drums in this duo as well as regularly performing with Fred Anderson and other top Chicago jazzmen at the legendar y Velvet Lounge club. Q Concer t star ts at 22:00. Admission Free. 11.07 Saturday Animation and Music - „Bring Me the Head of Ubu Roi” Pere Ubu & the Quay Brothers A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, Pl. Sejmu Sląskiego 2, tel. 061 646 52 60, w w w. animator-f estival. com. An anima te d event prepared by arty rock group Pere Ubu and talented British animators, the Quai brothers. It will be based on themes from ‘Ubu King’ - a play by Alfred Jerry which had its premiere in 2008 at Queen Elizabeth Hall. Lasting over 100 minutes, it is divided into 2 parts. The author of the script is the leader of Pere Ubu, David Thomas, and he and the boys will perform live music alongside the special multimedia animation. Great stuff, Pere Ubu in Poland, whatever next?! Q Event starts at 19:00. Ticket prices coming soon. July - October 2009 23 24 CULTURE & EVENTS Poznań Philharmonic Poznań Philharmonic (Filharmonia Poznańska) C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 81, tel. 061 852 47 08, www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl. The Poznań Philharmonic can trace its origins back to the end of Prussian rule after the Wielkopolska Uprising of 1919. Over a decade of irregular performances followed until a huge effort was made in the early 1930s by a group of influential musicians to establish a strong organisation in the city. This effort was helped by the local newspaper Kurier Poznanski and the first performance of the city’s Philharmonia, unofficially named the Poznań Philharmonic, took place on the 14th of October 1931. After the trauma of WWII, the Philharmonia was reborn, initally under the title of the Workers’ Philharmonic Society and opened its first season as the Poznań Philharmonic once again in 1947. Today, the concerts of the Poznań Philharmonic are held in the historic auditorium of the Adam Mickiewicz University. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets 15-40zł. 25.08 Tuesday Radiohead H-1, Cytadela Park, al. Armii Poznań, tel. 061 646 52 43, www.malta-festival.pl. This concert is part of a festival called "Poznań for the Earth". It's Radiohead’s first visit since 1994; they performed at that year's Rock-In fest and deemed it so badly organised they never bothered coming back - until now, happily. As we know, this sort of thing is up eco-warrior Radiohead's alley - they always choose venues which are accessible by public transport, they don't travel by plane and they are kind to small animals. Get your skates on as tickets will go fast!QTickets 95-220zł. Time was undecided at press time. Please check website for updates as they happen. Available at www.eventim.pl. 26.08 Wednesday Komety A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Popular alternative rock group Komety are one of the few groups to have struck out on their own outside Polish boundaries, playing in the US, France, Finland, Japan and Russia. Influenced by 50s rock music, we'll also hear covers of songs by the Ramones, the Clash and Elvis. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Ticket prices comming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00). September 03.09 Thursday Lao Che A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Check out some history with Lao Che. Their first CD "Gusła" dealt with mysterious Slavic tribes in the middle ages. They then moved onto to "Powstanie Warszawskie", a song by song account of the Warsaw Uprising. Now they will be presenting songs from the new CD "Gospel" - a record of contemporary human weakness and wickedness sounds very odd, worth an evening of anyone's time. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Ticket prices comming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00). Poznań In Your Pocket CULTURE & EVENTS 05.09 Saturday - 06.09 Sunday Pyrlandia Days G-5, Park Jana Pawła II, ul. Dolna Wilda,, tel. 061 861 11 75, www.dnipyrlandii.pl. Potatoes go by the name of ziemniaki in Poland but there are some regional variations such as kartofel in the Gdańsk region and Pyry in the Poznań region. The people of Poznań are sometimes referred to by this name to highlight that they have slightly different customs and traditions. In a tongue in cheek reference to this nickname, the ‘Pyrlandia Days' festival is a celebration of all thing Poznań. During this two day festival you will be able to view and experience Poznań culture as presented through the clothes, customs and food of the local people. In addition there will be a series of concerts which in the past have seen both Polish and International stars come to Poznań to perform as well as choirs, orchestras, dance and theatrical groups. Now in its 7th year it has become a family celebration and there are various events to entertain young or old. There will be many open air competitions, a football match, fun and games for kids organized by the sponsors and a spectacular firework display. The Pyrlandia Days Festival aims to present and maintain the Polish and particularly Poznań culture of its citizens while at the same time presenting it to non-locals in a friendly climate with lots of food, music and fun. Q Events take place from 14:00 to 21:00. Admission free. 07.09 Monday - 09.09 Wednesday EuroBasket 2009 Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. 061 866 60 31, www.eurobasket09.pl. The European Basketball Championship of 2009 are universally referred to as EuroBasket 2009. It's the 36th championship held by FIBA VI Int. Dance Theatre Fest. 15.08 Sunday - 21.08 Wednesday VI International Dance Theatre Festival Event takes place in various locations. Check despription f or mor e info, tel. 061 852 40 08, www.ptt-poznan.pl. This festival has taken place since 2004 in conjunction with the International Contemporary Dance Workshops, both organised by the Polish Dance Theatre in Poznań. The workshops start on 15th August at 9:00 and finish on 22nd at 22:40. 10 instructors from all over the world will give 8 1,5 hour sessions. You can sign up for them only on the internet at the Polish Dance Theatre website as long as there are free places on the list; so if you are feeling adventurous, get a move on. The workshops have 3 levels depending on your modern dance skills and physical fitness, but there’s something for everyone. The theatre groups coming from Israel, Spain, France, Hungary, Sweden, Slovenia and Japan will present the freshest trends from the world of contemporary dance. It’s all about pushing dance forward, exploring new areas, crossing political and social borders in terms of style and genre so come along and prepare to be amazed. The performances take place in the Polish Theatre, B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 8/10, the Animation Theatre, A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 and the School of Ballet courtyard, C-2, ul. Gołębia 9 Q Ticket prices coming soon. Event starts at 9:00. Full schedule available at www.ptt-poznan.pl. poznan.inyourpocket.com Europe and this year comes to Poland from September 7th to September 20th. Poznan will see 1st group (A) phase at the 4200-seat Hala Arena. The timetable goes like this: 7.09 16:30 Macedonia - Greece, Croatia - Israel 8.09.2009 16:30 Israel - Macedonia, Greece - Croatia. 9.09. 16:30 Macedonia - Croatia, Israel - Greece.QTickets 80-160zł. Available at eventim.pl. October 11.10 Sunday X Poznań Marathon K-4, ul. Baraniaka, tel. 061 835 79 17, www.marathon.poznan.pl. Marathons in Poland don't come any bigger than the Poznań Marathon, this year celebrating its 10th anniversary. Over the previous 9 races 17 473 runners from 42 countries have taken part. Guests have included Irena Szewińska and legendary Polish walker and triple Olympic gold winner Robert Korzeniowski. At the top sports awards last year it won the prize for the best organised mass spor ts even t so expect thin gs to go smoothly. It's not just about running, blisters and stitch though, there are other events like the Expo fair, breakfast run and a run for children. This year for the first time blind and partially sighted athletes will take part, go along and lend your support.Q Marathon starts at 10:00. Registration fee 60zł. 12.10 Monday - 14.10 Wednesday Poznań Live Festival A-1, Collegium Minus, Wieniawskiego 1, tel. 061 656 25 56, www.nuova.pl. Building off of last year’s success, this world music festival takes its second curtain call with a lineup of esteemed artists from Lisbon’s Fado music circle. Fado, characterised by mournful tunes and nostalgic lyrics takes it’s roots from Portuguese sailor music, African slave rhythyms and the region’s Arabic influence. Often referred to as Portuguese blues, two of fado’s biggest stars will be in Poznań - Camene and Madredeus - prolific in promoting Fado beyond the seaside districts of Lisbon where is style originated. Camene, fado’s most recognisable name, has been called “the biggest fadist since Amalia Rodigues and Maria da Fe” by David Bret, Britain’s fado specialist. If that doesn’t mean any thing to you, this is your opportunity to get hip to some new music. The concert programme will be supplemented by several related films, including cult director Wim Wender’s “Lisbon Story” and Carlos Saura’s “Fados” - two films rich in dance, music and coastal culture. Screenings will take place at Cinema Muza (B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 30). Q Full schedule available at www.nuova.pl. Ticket prices and time were undecided at press time. Please check website for updates as they happen. poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 25 26 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY Symbol key e Mor than com Wel e, u ven Ben ti P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled R Internet L Guarded parking F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant C Swimming pool D Sauna W Wi-Fi In most hotels prices shoot up during fairs and they can hardly be called fair rates. Rooms rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs and prices will fluctuate according to the importance of the fair. On the plus side most hotels offer substantial weekend discounts. Prices listed include breakfast and VAT unless otherwise noted. Hotels list their prices in either złoty, euro or US dollars - either way your bill will be calculated using the exchange rate of the day and presented to you in local currency. Upmarket T. +48 618590 590 F.+48 618590 591 [email protected] www.dominahotels.com Lodgings at a Glance Splurge You’ll struggle to find a more expensive hotel in Poland, but by the same measure you’re unlikely to find a better one. The Blow Up Hall has to count as Europe’s most hi-tech hotel, and has opened to gushing reviews from guests and media alike. For more conventional luxury book into the ever reliable Sheraton, or make a note to check out the high rise IBB Andersia. Couples The Fancy House is a great boutique effort with themed rooms clearly decorated by a loving hand. Alternatively head out of town – Palac Wasowo offers fairytale accommodation with lodgings in either thatched cottages, a baroque mansion or a neo Gothic Palace; perfect for a saucy break in the country. Closer to Poz then look at Zagroda Bamberska, a rustic effort with great rooms and private gardens. Lads If there’s a group of you then try the Novotel Poznan Centrum or the Mercure. Both offer modern comforts, high standards and plenty of rooms. You might be looking to avoid awkward confrontations with cleaning staff and receptionists, in which case consider going self catering and renting an apartment – Domina offer the classiest deal of the lot and are right in the centre. Budget There’s now a load of hostels to choose from, and our favourite has to be Fusion, a hyper modern space with everything the backpacker requires – including a shed load of computers, great common room and bathrooms that don’t smell of vomit. Close by both Cinnamon and Frolic Goats also get a thumbs up. Poznań In Your Pocket Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99 80, fax 061 657 99 81, reservation@blowuphall5050. com, www.blowuphall5050.com. If you want wow factor then look no further, the Blow Up Hall is the most exciting hotel development Poznan, maybe even Poland, has ever seen. Attached to the Stary Browar building this is little less than a work of art. Designed by Tadao Ando, and based on a project by Rafael Lozano-Hemmer, the aim of this hotel is to allow guests to ‘experience and participate in the creation of art’. Pretentious? You bet. But who cares, if there’s one place you should scrimp and save to stay in, it’s this one. Perks include in house spa, butler service, Bang & Olufsen equipment, DVDs on request and iphones for guests. There’s little point in describing the individually designed rooms, suffice to say they make use of the latest fads, trends and techno gimmickery; you really have to see it to believe it. Q22 rooms (22 singles €202 - 310, 22 doubles €202 - 310). PALGW Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. 061 858 68 68, fax 061 858 68 69, [email protected], www.brovaria.pl. The lower floors are home to one of Poland’s only micro-breweries, and if that doesn’t convince you to stay, then a quick look around the rooms will. Furnished with taste rooms bridge the gap between contemporary styles and the classic touches their old town location deserves. Cream coloured accommodation includes cable TV, dataports and complicated flower arrangements, and some have views overlooking the main square. Q21 rooms (3 singles 250 - 430zł, 17 doubles 290 - 490zł, 1 apartment 430 - 600zł). PTJHARKW hhh City Park Residence ul. Wyspiańskiego 26 (Grunwald), tel. 061 221 84 00, fax 061 221 84 02, [email protected], www.cityparkresidence.com. pl. An oasis of opulence and class the Notus offers luxury accommodation in a low-level fin de siècle building, whose exterior makes use of sandblasted brickwork and plenty of glass. Rooms are nothing less than the final word in designer living and sport 32 inch flatscreen TVs, king size beds, safe and work desk, while the bathrooms come dripping with generous bathtubs. But there is bad news - there’s no minibar, bar or restaurant, while the skylights desperately need the addition of curtains. Still, kitchenettes and a nearby sushi poznan.inyourpocket.com restaurant and wine bar paper over these cracks, while the swimming pool - set under a curvy glass roof - is one of the seven wonders of Poznań.Q88 rooms (88 apartments 285 - 800zł). PTHARLGDC Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. 061 859 05 90, fax 061 859 05 91, prestige@ dominahotels.pl, www.dominahotels.com. Domina offers luxury serviced apartments, packed with designer trappings and gadgets. Top-class accommodation comes with sound system, bathrobes and fully fitted lounge and kitchen areas included in the price.Q40 rooms (40 apartments 399 820zł). PTARLGW hhhh 'JSTUJO1PMBOE 'JSTUJO1P[OBǩ HP Park K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. 061 874 11 00, fax 061 874 12 00, [email protected], www.hotelepark.pl. Tidy rooms a stone’s throw from Lake Malta. Pastel coloured rooms come with uniform three star accessories: telephone, cable TV and minibar, with all accommodation bearing the benefit of a recent refurb.Q98 rooms (97 singles 310 - 520zł, 97 doubles 380 620zł, 1 apartment 600 - 800zł). PTHAUGKW hhh IBB Andersia Hotel G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, fax 061 667 80 01, rezerwacja@andersiahotel. pl, www.andersiahotel.pl. The location is unbeatable, with the Stary Browar shopping centre next door and the old town a shot away. Included in the deal are an indoor pool, airconditioning throughout, and top-band conference facilities. Fitted with plasma screens and heated bathroom floors this is a choice pampering experience, with window side sofas proving a great spot to enjoy your complimentary morning paper. Long term guests have the choice of three luxury apartments located on the upper floors.Q171 rooms (105 singles 460 820zł, 42 doubles 525 - 885zł, 24 apartments 545 - 2700zł). PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh On the Trams Painted in natty green and yellow colours the trams of Poznań have been zipping the locals to work since 1880, when Otto Reymer and Masch convinced the town council Poznań was ready to take a step into the future. Drawn by horses the first tram made its debut on July 31, clip-clopping down from the main station to the market square. Yet while trams were catching on across Europe, the Poznań version faced an ignominuous beginning. The German natives were suspicious of this new-fangled mode of transport, while the Poles refused to take them on account of their timetables and signs: in German only. So within weeks of launching their venture Reymer and Masch hit bankruptcy, and were forced into selling their brainchild to the Poznań Horse Railway Society. The new guys fared admirably better, and on March 6, 1898, the horse drawn trams were replaced by electrically operated ones. World War II saw most trams headed for the barricades in a last ditch attempt to stem the Red Army advance, and it wasn’t until 1952 that Poznań’s city centre was once more capable of hosting a tram network. The routes running through the old town were discontinued, though alternative ones were being added at an aggressive rate. Today the city has approximately 66km of tracks, of which six kilometres is taken by the express Poznański Szybki Tramwaj. Work on this bugger commenced in 1975 when local authorities realized the importance of linking the suburban tower blocks with the rest of the city, though a mixture of mismanagement and lack of funds meant that it was only completed in 1997. It was worth the wait. Hitting speeds of 70km/hr, the PST (or Pestka in local lingo) has cut journey time to the centre by 30 minutes, and plans are afoot to add even more routes to Poznań’s outlying districts. poznan.inyourpocket.com 5IF /) 1P[OBǩ JT MPDBUFE DFOUSBMMZ JO UIF TIPQQJOH EJTUSJDU JO UIF IFBSU PG 1P[OBǩ 5IF 1P[OBǩ *OUFSOBUJPOBM 'BJS UIF NBJO USBJO TUBUJPO BOE UIF GBNPVT 0ME .BSLFU BSF TJUVBUFE XJUIJO XBMLJOH EJTUBODF 0VS IPUFM JT UIF JEFBM TUBSUJOH QPJOU GPS ZPVS CVTJOFTT NFFUJOHTPSDPOGFSFODFT ƴX.BSDJOt1P[OBǩ UFM OIQP[OBO!OIIPUFMTDPN XXXOIIPUFMTDPN July - October 2009 27 28 WHERE TO STAY Mat’s ul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. 061 868 78 31, fax 061 861 41 78, [email protected], www.hotelmats.pl. An engaging combination of classic and modern; antique clocks and rococo-style armchairs next to shining glass and tennis courts. This is not your standard three star venture, and as such is well worth the taxi ride from the city centre. Rooms have had a thorough refit in the last few months, cementing the status of Mat’s as one of Poznań’s premier choices. Q35 rooms (3 singles 219 - 449zł, 21 doubles 269 - 549zł, 9 suites 309 - 599zł, 2 apartments 369 - 629zł). PHARULGKDW hhh WHERE TO STAY Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061 858 71 51, fax 061 833 29 61, [email protected], www.accorhotels.com. Smart, newly-renovated rooms found inside one of the tallest hotels in the city. Each room comes with pristine bathroom, dataport, CNN and minibar. Q480 rooms (160 singles 256 - 844zł, 310 doubles 256 844zł, 10 apartments 406 - 1037zł). Breakfast 60zł. Also check with the hotel for special daily prices. POTHA RUFGKW hhh Mercure Poznań E-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. 061 855 80 00, fax 061 855 89 55, rez.mer.poznan@orbis. pl, www.accorhotels.com. A two-minute walk for the International Trade Fair, so no prizes for guessing that most visitors hail from the business community. Excellent conference facilities and modern rooms equipped with dataports and cable TV. Q228 rooms (227 singles 269 - 919zł, 227 doubles 269 - 919zł, 1 apartment 1000 - 1750zł). Breakfast 65zł. PTHARUFLGKDW hhhh Novotel Poznań Malta K-3, ul. Warszawska 64/66, tel. 061 654 31 00, fax 061 654 31 95, [email protected], www.accorhotels.com. A cost-effective, squat hotel on the edges of Lake Malta. You know what you’re getting with Novotel, and all codes of Western practice are tightly observed. Staff have been programmed to show patience and good humour, while rooms are bright and modern. Q149 rooms (149 singles 179 - 639zł, 149 doubles 179 - 639zł). Breakfast 44zł. Also check with the hotel for special daily prices. TYHARUFLG KCW hhh NH Poznań A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. 061 624 88 Royal A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. 061 858 23 00, 00, fax 061 624 88 01, [email protected], www.nh-hotels.com. The NH wins our favour for the fully restored art nouveau frontage, behind which guests will find an upscale four star endeavor that fully warrants the slightly steep prices. Check-in is conducted in a sleek room walled with dark woods, while sleeping is reserved for stylishly simple bedrooms, kitted out with puffy beds, rich colours, wood floors and a chic ‘less is more’ fashion.Q93 rooms (93 singles €89 - 119, 93 doubles €89 - 119). Breakfast €17. PTHARUFGKDW hhhh fax 061 858 23 06, [email protected], www. hotel-royal.com.pl. Plenty of character and history inside this courtyard hotel. Having served as army HQ during the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising, Royal is decorated with wood panelling, floral-patterned duvets and plum colour schemes. The Mr Fix-It staff can organize everything from car rentals to sightseeing tours, while guests can also enjoy a 24hr bar. Q31 rooms (9 singles 224 - 380zł, 14 doubles 294 - 460zł, 7 suites 315 - 485zł, 1 apartment 350 - 535zł). HALGW hhh Sheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 061 655 20 00, fax 061 655 20 01, reservations. [email protected], www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. Just steps away from the Trade Fair, though this is more than the business travellers choice. The Sheraton Poznan is the number one hotel in town, with a chic modern style that covers every inch of the hotel. Accommodation comes with flat screen TVs, walk-in showers, top-notch sound proofing and the most comfortable beds in the country. Head to the upper floors to enjoy facilities like the swimming pool and fitness room, or check out the executive lounge for video games, magazines and beverages. It’s very impressive, but what really stands out here are the staff; experts in hospitality. Q181 rooms (168 singles 370 - 1000zł, 168 doubles 370 - 1000zł, 13 apartments 615 - 4220zł). Breakfast 90zł. Tax 7%. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh Stare Miasto (The Old Town) C-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. 061 659 00 43, fax 061 663 62 42, [email protected], www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. Prim rooms fully deserving the three stars they have been granted. All come with ensuite bathrooms and internet access, and given the old town location are surprisingly large. The studio and apartment are also open for business and are fully air-conditioned. A conference room is available for up to 40 people, air-conditioned with a screen, projector and sound system. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q23 rooms (3 singles 195 - 345zł, 18 doubles 255 - 475zł, 1 suite 275 530zł, 1 apartment 350 - 690zł). PJHARGW hhh Trawiński G-1, ul. Żniwna 2, tel. 061 827 58 00, fax 061 820 57 81, [email protected], www. hoteltrawinski.com.pl. Swish rooms with modern trappings, yellowish colour schemes and adjustable air-conditioning. Tucked on a quiet rise overlooking Citadel Park. On-site facilities also include hairdresser and the full line of conference services. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q58 rooms (15 singles 240 - 365zł, 36 doubles 299 - 490zł, 5 suites 390 - 590zł, 1 apartment 900 - 1200zł). PTHA RUFLGKD hhhh Vivaldi G-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. 061 858 81 00, fax 061 853 29 77, [email protected], www.vivaldi.pl. A curvy, futuristic exterior shields one of Poznań’s premier hotels. Upscale and comfortable, the highlight has to be the two-level suite, with a downstairs bedroom accessed by a set of spiral stairs. Rooms come armed with all the modern trappings, including dataports and mini-bars. Q48 rooms (38 singles 260 - 490zł, 9 doubles 390 - 690zł, 1 apartment 710 - 820zł). PTHARLGKDCW hhhh Alex Webber Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 29 30 WHERE TO STAY Mid-range Astra ul. Lutycka 31 (Jeżyce), tel./fax 061 848 94 72, [email protected], www.astra.ta.pl. With its vertical ‘HOTEL’ sign and roadside location Astra could easily be a motel in Nowhere, USA. Sterile and overpriced, the weary furnishings need an immediate update. Six kilometres from town, so add taxi fares to the price. Q12 rooms (5 doubles 220 - 460zł, 6 triples 320 - 620zł, 1 quad 420 - 750zł). HAUGKW hh Campanile E-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. 061 845 66 00, fax 061 845 66 01, [email protected]. pl, www.campanile.com.pl. The Poznań Campanile is everything we’ve come to expect from such a good value chain; high standard modern rooms furnished with a colourful flourish. Bathtubs, net connection and cable TV come as standard. Q80 rooms (76 singles 179 - 279zł, 76 doubles 179 - 279zł, 4 apartments 240 - 339zł). Breakfast 32zł. PTHARULGKW hh Derby ul. Lutycka 34 (Wola), tel./fax 061 848 30 97, [email protected], www.hipodromwola.com. pl. Owned by the Polish Equestrian Federation though it’s unlikely you’ll meet any Arab racehorse owners in this glum excuse for a hotel. Rooms are clean, but the furniture belongs in history. Even the plastic flowers are wilting. Surprisingly, the restaurant serves good Lithuanian meals. Q43 rooms (41 singles 100 - 180zł, 41 doubles 120 - 250zł, 1 suite 240 290zł, 1 apartment 270 - 330zł). AKW hh Dorrian ul. Wyspiańskiego 29 (Grunwald), tel. 061 867 45 22, fax 061 867 45 59, [email protected], www. dorrian.pl. Dorrian catches the eye (literally) with pleasantly modern rooms, impeccable service and some shocking co- WHERE TO STAY lours. They’ve got a captive audience what with the Trade Fair next door, so it comes as no shock to find the prices a little inflated.Q18 rooms (18 singles 190 - 590zł, 17 doubles 210 - 590zł). PHAUGKW hhh Feniks ul. Czeremchowa 26 (Wilda), tel./fax 061 832 60 75, [email protected], www.feniks. poznan.pl. Essentially decent apartments decorated with lurid yellow colour schemes that bring to mind a field of sick daffodils. Housed inside a modern, suburban townhouse, Feniks appears geared towards the traveller with agrophobia; all rooms have kitchens, private bathrooms and lounges furnished in a generic showroom style, meaning there’s no reason to stray further than the front porch.Q18 rooms (16 singles 150 - 180zł, 8 doubles 210 - 280zł, 2 apartments 320 - 360zł). HALGW hh NEW Gaja E-3, ul. Gajowa 12, tel. 061 223 20 01, fax 061 842 01 48, [email protected], www.gaja-hotel.pl/hotel. Absolutely typical of the mid-bracket hotels found across Poland. Pleasant rooms come decorated with blue carpets and oil paintings, while bathrooms are in the Polish hoteliers dream colour: brown. Q39 rooms (10 singles 160 - 260zł, 24 doubles 240 - 340zł, 1 quad 420 - 520zł, 4 apartments 280 - 380zł). ARGK Gromada ul. Babimojska 7 (Grunwald), tel. 061 866 92 07, fax 061 867 31 61, [email protected], www. gromada.pl. A large, ugly block conceals dull, unimaginative accommodation. But while Gromada won’t win points for beauty it’s clean, cheap and only a kilometre from the city centre, and that’s good enough for some.Q73 rooms (70 singles 75 - 330zł, 66 doubles 90 - 390zł, 3 apartments 232 - 590zł). THAULGKD hhh tBJSDPOEJUJPOFESPPNT tHVBSEFEQBSLJOH tSFTUBVSBOUBOECBS tDPOGFSFODFSPPNT tDMPTFUPUIF"NPUPSXBZJOUIFEJSFDUJPOPGUIF(FSNBOCPSEFS VMɭX8BXS[ZʤDB1P[OBʤUFMGBY FNBJMQP[OBO!DBNQBOJMFDPNQMXXXDBNQBOJMFDPNQM Henlex ul. Spławie 43 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 879 87 71, fax 061 870 59 03, henlex@hotel-henlex. com.pl, www.hotel-henlex.com.pl. From the outside this stark, sand-coloured block appears quite forbidding, and the neon hotel sign adds to an eerie look that David Lynch would love. Step through the glass doors and Henlex takes on another guise: that of a superb mid-range hotel. Completed only recently rooms are furnished with soft colours and modern finishes - with corner bathtubs in the suites. Finnish sauna also onsite. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning. Q22 rooms (20 singles 140 - 200zł, 19 doubles 170 - 370zł, 2 apar tments 295 - 560zł). PTAGKDW hhh Hotel 222 E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. 061 869 91 40, fax 061 868 53 52, hotel222@hotel222. com.pl, www.hotel222.com.pl. Excellent hotel with an absurd position atop of a shopping mall. Bright, modern rooms and a crimson restaurant in which to enjoy breakfast. Trams N°6 & 13 stop right on the doorstep. Note that not all rooms have air condi tioning. Q 51 rooms (51 singles 150 - 399zł, 51 doubles 170 - 499zł). PHARKXW hh Hotel System Premium ul. Lechicka 101 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 821 07 00, fax 061 821 07 70, [email protected], www.hotelsystem.pl. A high standard, hi-tech affair featuring pleasant cream colour schemes and that great rarity in Poznań - a topnotch hotel swimming pool. And there’s no problem if you left that laptop in the strip club; each room comes equipped wi th i ts own PC. Q 107 rooms (47 singles 229 - 424zł, 53 doubles 229 - 459zł, 7 apar tments 329 - 609zł). Breakfast 35zł. PTHARUFL GKDCW hhh NEW Hotel Włoski G-5, ul. Dolna Wilda 8, tel. 061 833 52 62, fax 061 833 52 61, [email protected], www. hotelwloski.pl. A fabulous newbie set behind a historic looking façade. This could be one of the fairest deals in the city, with rooms boasting a traditional style consisting of artwork and classic wood fixtures - if that’s not enough, then they’ll even scatter the bed with rose petals and flowers. Free wifi and some decent TV channels complete the picture. Q70 rooms (70 doubles 197 - 287zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTHARLGKW hhh Ibis H-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. 061 858 44 00, fax 061 858 44 44, [email protected], ww w.accorhotels.com. If any thing goes wrong, the staff get 15 minutes to fix it - other wise you stay for free. I t’s almost tempting to sabotage the plumbing, Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com but why would you want to. Ibis offers smashing value in clean, generic rooms. Q 146 rooms (146 singles 185 - 399zł, 146 doubles 185 - 399zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTJHAUGKW hh Ikar G-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. 061 658 71 05, fax 061 851 58 67, [email protected], www.hotelikar. com.pl. Located on the edge of Old Town and about a ten-minute drive from the train station, Ikar is modest but pleasant, with a lot of polished stone and wood, rattan furniture and Art Nouveau-style light fixtures. One of the nine floors was recently renovated, and all rooms have satellite TV, a phone, a fridge and a bathroom with a shower. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q 144 rooms (57 singles 180 - 350zł, 80 doubles 260 510zł, 7 suites 310 - 590zł). PJHARULGK hhh Local Football Last issue we reported that local side Lech Poznan stood on the verge of greatness. Well, predictably almost, they fell off that vertiginous height, and ended the season third in the title race, five points behind champions Wisla Krakow. After leading the league for so long Poznan fell away during the crucial run-in, fading fast the moment the pressure mounted. Consolation of sorts was found in the Polish Cup however, and the local side edged the final with a 1-0 victory over Ruch Chorzow. But that’s not been enough – head coach Franciszek Smuda has left amid (far-fetched) rumours linking him to Celtic, and his departure could well spark an exodus of players. First off the boat could well be inspirational midfielder Semir Stilic with front man Robert Lewandowski likely to join him. The 20 year old forward, who finished as the team’s top scorer with 13 goals, has already declared his desire to leave Poznan in the national tabloids. ‘I’ve made a decision about my future’, Lewandowski told Fakt newspaper, ‘I want to leave Lech this summer to join Borussia Dortmund’. The want-away striker has already rebuffed overtures from Napoli and is expected to command a fee in excess of five million euro. Also looking to move on are midfielders Tomasz Bandrowski and Rafal Murawski, with Birmingham City looking the likely destination for the pair. In return Jacek Zielinski, freshly installed as manager of Lech, will be looking to bring in Piast Gliwice’s Kamil Glik and Grzegorz Kasprzik. Either way, with the break-up of the side imminent, another title challenge looks unlikely. July - October 2009 31 32 WHERE TO STAY Lech A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. 061 853 01 51, fax 061 853 08 80, [email protected], www. hotel-lech.poznan.pl. Lech presents large, spotless rooms complete with satellite TV, dataports and bathrooms. Planted in the middle of Poznań, so no need for taxis. Q79 rooms (34 singles 142 - 310zł, 44 doubles 234 - 430zł, 4 triples 346 - 530zł, 1 apartment 254 - 580zł). JARKX hh Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, fax 061 878 99 22, [email protected], www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Outstanding accommodation inside an atmospheric timber lodge. Rooms, named after the seasons, feature hand-carved furniture, fresh flowers and paintings of peasant life. The ‘May’ apartment comes with a circular Roman bath, perfect for savouring the good life. Downstairs the restaurant serves big portions of hunter-ish dishes like duck, boar and ribs. Q14 rooms (12 singles 203 - 290zł, 12 doubles 252 - 360zł, 2 apartments 500 - 580zł). TAGKW Meridian E-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. 061 656 53 53, fax 061 656 55 26, hotel@hotelmeridian. com.pl, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. A charismatic hotel with the appeal of a private villa. The picturesque location on the fringes of a forest is complimented by warm earth tones in the rooms and all expected 21st century trimmings: cable TV, air conditioning, etc. Q10 rooms (10 singles 130 - 320zł, 10 doubles 170 - 360zł). PYHAKXW hhh Olimpia ul. Taborowa 8 (Grunwald), tel. 061 864 42 00, fax 061 864 42 06, [email protected]. pl, www.reges.pl/olimpia.htm. This ugly concrete block serves as a marvellous blast-to-the-past, with musty furnishings straight from the Cold War era. Basic, dated and gloomy, though the relative proximity to the Trade Fair keeps it ticking WHERE TO STAY over with a stream of bewildered looking business travellers. Q44 rooms (16 singles 165 - 240zł, 25 doubles 250 - 340zł, 6 triples 300 - 390zł, 3 suites 330 - 430zł). HALK Polonez G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36, tel. 061 864 71 situations by asking for one of the renovated rooms.Q87 rooms (28 singles 200 - 330zł, 53 doubles 250 - 470zł, 1 suite 375 - 660zł, 5 apartments 330 - 570zł). TJHA RUGKW hhh 00, fax 061 852 37 62, [email protected], www. accorhotels.com. Brownish rooms in an enormous block on the northern edges of the centre. While the unimaginative accommodation does little to feed the creative spirit, all rooms have telephone, satellite TV and dataports. There’s a surprisingly good gift shop on the ground floor. Q369 rooms (167 singles 120 - 480zł, 191 doubles 120 - 480zł, 11 apartments 190 - 480zł). Breakfast 35zł. OTYHA RULGKDW hhh T&T ul. Metalowa 4 (Górczyn), tel. 061 864 12 81, fax 061 864 12 82, [email protected], www.hoteltt. com.pl. Situated at the end of a dead-end street, and with a tram stop and taxi rank just around the corner, T&T has spacious rooms that keep the business traveller in mind. Intriguingly, not even the staff know what T&T stands for. Q17 rooms (15 singles 185 - 510zł, 15 doubles 225 560zł, 2 apartments 295 - 650zł). PHARUGKD hhh Rezydencja Solei D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 855 73 Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061 842 77 90, fax 061 842 77 91, info@zagrodabamberska. pl, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Wooden beams, patterned rugs and sturdy wooden furniture create a rural ambience in this recently renovated farm-style annex. For summer the garden boasts a huge open-air barbecue, and a collection of wood carved animals to trip over. Q10 rooms (7 singles 270 - 342zł, 7 doubles 300 - 380zł, 3 apartments 350 - 490zł). THALGKW hhh 51, fax 061 855 73 50, [email protected], www. hotel-solei.pl. Squirreled away just beyond Old Town Square Solei present compact rooms decorated with floral patterns, IKEA water colours and wood furniture. It’s on a quiet street, but close to all the action, though prices sky-rocket during trade fairs. A sister hotel, Rezydencja Solei (ul. Wałecka 2, tel. 061 847 58 38) offers much the same though is usually fully booked with groups using the conference facilities. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q11 rooms (9 singles 179 - 369zł, 2 doubles 249 - 489zł, 2 apartments 330 - 589zł). PAGW Rzymski C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. 061 852 81 21, fax 061 852 89 83, [email protected], www. hotelrzymski.pl. Right in the city centre, so do ask for a room facing away from the street if you don’t wish to be woken by a dawn chorus of trams and refuse trucks. Rooms are pleasantly decorated in brownish colours, and while spotless the bathrooms come with a well-used musk - avoid such Budget Gold E-4, ul. Bukowska 127a, tel. 061 842 07 74, fax 061 842 07 73, [email protected], www.goldhotel. pl. A small suburban hotel with boxy modern rooms complete with sliding bathroom doors and a vase of sweets on the reception desk. A very decent, budget option. Close to the airport, so expect to be travelling to and from town by chariot. Q11 rooms (11 singles 150 - 170zł, 11 doubles 190 - 210zł). TAXW hh Hotel Księcia Józefa ul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Mi- asto), tel. 061 872 63 19, fax 061 879 86 55, hotel@hotelkj. pl, www.hotelkj.pl. A lovely little deal that almost fools guests into thinking they’ve stepped into a fairytale forest. Everything from the twisty wrought iron banisters to weird mottled wallpaper alludes to the outdoors, and never more so than inside the Narnia style restaurant. While they’ve been designed to look olde world the rooms are positively 21st century, and complete with flatscreen TVs and those trendy standalone sinks.Q14 rooms (1 single 140 - 195zł, 13 doubles 140 - 195zł). Breakfast 25zł. ARGKW hhh Mini Hotelik A-3, Al. Niepodległości 8a (entrance from ul. Taylora), tel. 061 633 14 16, fax 061 633 18 60, bartlomiej. [email protected], www.trans-tor.poznan.pl. Not much chance of finding English spoken here, though sign language is always enough to get a place at one of the best budget deals in town. Spotless rooms occupy the top floor of a residential building, and though some share bathroom facilities the small scale of this operation guarantees queues for your morning shower are unlikely. Rooms come with TV and furniture that is kept religiously scrubbed. If you're returning late you'll need to buzzed in by a member of staff. Q11 rooms (2 singles 64 - 118zł, 5 doubles 128 - 160zł, 3 triples 193 - 225zł, 1 apartment 160 - 224zł). No breakfast served. G Naramowice ul. Naramowicka 150 (Stare MiastoNaramowice), tel. 061 822 75 43, fax 061 820 27 81, [email protected], www.naramowice.pl. An ugly concrete building that wouldn't be out of place on a council estate hides a perfectly acceptable interior. The rooms are plain but smart, and although they won't fuel the creative poet inside of you, they offer moderate comfort and fair value. Way in the north of the city. Q54 rooms (48 singles 160 - 320zł, 48 doubles 180 - 350zł, 6 suites 210 - 400zł). Breakfast 20zł. HALKW hh Located right in the city centre. tSPPNTGSPN1-/ tBJSDPOEJUJPOFESFTUBVSBOU tGSFF8J'JJOUFSOFUBDDFTTJOPVSDPOGFSFODFSPPN BOEBMMPVSSFTUBVSBOUT tFYDFMMFOUDVJTJOFPòGPSIPUFMHVFTUTJO 3FTUBVSBOUEF3PNFBOEJO#JTUSP3[ZNJBOLB tIJHITQFFE*OUFSOFUBDDFTT JOFBDISPPN Hotel Rzymski a K.. Ma al. Marci rcink rcinko nko k wsk ko wskieg go 22 611-827 8277 PPozna zn nan tel te el.l. + 488 61 61 85 8852 52 81 81 21 hot otel@ ot tel@ el@rzy zyym msk skki.p i.pl i.p i.pl www ww w w.ho hotel ho teeellrzy rzyymsk mski.p i pl i.p i.pl Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 33 34 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY Pomorski E-3, ul. Sierakowska 36, tel. 061 867 28 31, from with breakfast Visit our comfortable and modern hostel in city center fax 061 867 53 62, [email protected], www. hotel-pomorski.dmf.pl. Pictures of Italy greet the guest from the newly renovated walls of Pomorski's corridors. After being completely overhauled, the hotel now has a better reception area, very comfy family rooms (3-bedded) but rather bland double rooms. It's a short walk to the tramstop on Grunwaldzka. Q68 rooms (25 singles 120 - 155zł, 38 doubles 170 - 220zł, 4 suites 255 - 300zł, 1 apartment 400 - 450zł). HARUFGK hh Sport Hotel F-5, ul. Chwiałkowskiego 34, tel. 061 833 05 91, fax 061 833 24 44, sporthotel@posir. poznan.pl, www.sporthotel.poznan.pl. Although it's located in the Nautilus Spor ts Centre you're going to get enough exercise humping your bags up three flights of stairs. Rooms are clean, recently painted and fully renovated, but come with the sort of identikit furniture and carpets you'd find in an office. Beg gars can't be choosers, and Sport isn't bad value. Pay extra to use the sports complex. Q23 rooms (3 singles 130 - 240zł, 13 doubles 160 - 300zł, 2 triples 200 - 400zł, 2 apartments 260 - 525zł). HAUGDCW hh Apartments Onto restaurants, and we’ll start with what could well become our favourite eatery in town – Czeska Hospoda is an absolute delight, with an owner committed to nothing else but absolute excellence. Recommend it we most certainly do. Next up, Warung Bali adds an Indonesian flavour to the old town, while the restaurant in the Blow Up Hall is every bit as good as the hotel of the same name. For something more traditional then check out Wiejskie Jadlo, and don’t miss tapas in La Rambla. Finally, nightlife, and Mielzynski Wine Bar is the best of its genre, while Blueberry is a welcome addition to the lounge scene. We’re yet to be convinced by Celtic Irish Bar, though this could change in the coming months. Enjoy them all. Poznań In Your Pocket Fusion Hostel ul. Św Marcin 66/72, tel. 0 61 852 12 30, [email protected], www.fusionhostel.pl. We've seen many hostels, but few to rival Fusion. Could this be the best in Poland? The design here is positively futuristic, with an excellent common room decked out with low-slung sofas and a separate area holding a bank of flatscreen computers. Everything shines and sparkles here, while a maximum of six to a room minimizes the risk of being woken by a snoring Ozzie. Q 86 dorm beds 55-120zł per person. AGW The only hostel in Poznan recommended by Lonely Planet. Frolic Goats Hostel the best located hostel in town! We offer cosy private rooms as well as cheap dorms. Prices from 45 zl NEW NEW There’s been plenty of new arrivals to cast opinion on this issue, and no more so than in the hotel sector. The opening of the Blow Up Hall dominated our last outing to Poz, and while they’re a tough act to follow that’s not deterred a couple of pretenders. Pick of the bunch is Fancy House, an absolutely ace boutique style effort that doesn’t half capture the imagination. Then there’s Hot_Elarnia, whose out of town position should do nothing to harm its popularity – it looks superb, and the spa facilities are a great incentive to book in for a weekend pampering. Then there’s the hostel front, and we just love Fusion, a cleverly designed bolthole that proves how far hostelling has come since those days of cur fews and lockouts. NEW Wondering where to go next? Poznan the place to be. Wondering where to stay? Hostel Poznań ul. Słowackiego 40, tel./fax 0 61 843 Fancy House E-4, ul. Śniadeckich 18/4, tel. 0660 750 What’s Hot, What’s Not Frolic Goats Hostel C-2, ul. Wrocławska 16/6 (entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. 061 852 44 11, [email protected], www.frolicgoatshostel. com. Accommodation ranges from private rooms to 12 man dorms with beds being of the sturdy pine type. Everything smells and feels brand new here, which is exactly what it is, and details include a kitchen with a preserved stone chimney as well as bicycle hire and the promise of round-the-clock hot water. If mingling with backpackers washing their socks is beneath you then ask about their private apartments on ul. Krysiewicza 6.Q8 rooms (3 doubles 170 - 200zł, 2 quads 240 - 260zł). 45 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. AGW 916, fax 061 622 98 10, [email protected], www.fancyhouse.pl. So it’s the Blow Up Hall that’s been grabbing the headlines, but that’s not to say it’s the only design hotel in town. Fancy House is a star in its own right, with a selection of accommodation that’s both fun and stylish. Choose the Pop room for pics of Marilyn and wedding white colours, or go for Orient for svelte wood finishes and eastern flavour. Think you can do better than the local chefs? Prove so by cooking up in the fully-equipped kitchen. Q (1 single 195 - 270zł, 3 doubles 220 - 295zł, 1 apartment 660 - 885zł). TALGW Hostels By The Way Hostel C-3, ul. Półwiejska 19/11, tel. 0 698 38 04 73, hostel@by thewayhostel.pl, www.bythewayhostel.pl. Wrocław was discovered a few seasons back by the backpackers - now it looks like it's Poznań's turn. The opening of By The Way is another step on the path of backpacking glor y, and this place offers a pleasingly ar tistic character, up-to-date fittings, and rooms kitted out with reading lamps and lockers. The location is spot on, and the no-cur few policy allows travellers full oppor tunity to test out dance moves learned in Morocco. Q 7 rooms (3 doubles 130zł, 1 Six-person room 330zł, 1 Eight-person room 400zł, 2 Ten-person rooms 450zł). 16 dorm beds 45-65zł per person. TAGW Cinnamon A-2, ul. Gwarna 10/2, tel. 061 851 57 57, [email protected], www.cinnamonhostel. com. Enter via a shabby-looking barred gateway to find a rather spiffy choice of budget lodgings. The common room is right out of studentsville, what with all the band and movie posters, while the rooms are neat and simple and themed on colours. Everything from beds to kitchens to bathrooms are fresh, clean and pleasant, while those hoping for a little more privacy can now rent a separate apar tment named Spice. Q 9 rooms (4 singles 100zł, 4 doubles 135zł, 2 quads 240zł, 2 Eight-person rooms 400zł, 1 Nine-person room 405zł). 43 dorm beds 45-60zł per person. TARGW poznan.inyourpocket.com 31 02, [email protected], www. slowackiego.hostelpoznan.pl. It's not the most exciting of names, but at least you won't forget it. There's no gimmicks here, just very decent budget accommodation featuring woodcut beds, parquet floors and TVs and work stations in the smaller rooms. Break boundaries they don't, but if you want a clean bed at a good price you won't find many finer options.Q15 rooms (6 singles 65-78zł, 6 doubles 110-168zł, 6 triples 140-168zł, 6 quads 180-195zł). 10 dorm beds 40zł per person. W www.frolicgoatshostel.com ul.Wroclawska 16/6 (entry from Jaskolcza Street) phone: +48 (0) 61 8524411 Out of town Batory ul. Leszczyńska 7-13 (Grunwald), tel. 061 832 44 81, fax 061 832 42 30, [email protected], www. batory.poznan.pl. A modern exterior, and an interior loosely inspired by a scrapped Atlantic liner called the Batory - bits and pieces from the ship decorate the lobby and bar. Rooms are comfortable and reasonably plush. With a lively interpretation of the words ‘located near the centre,' getting to Batory involves either a taxi or taking a tram to the end of the line before hopping onto a bus for two stops. Q20 rooms (19 singles 264 - 500zł, 17 doubles 320 - 520zł, 1 apartment 650 - 850zł). PTHAGKW hhh ->HBVLROPBIC >QELJB &OFBKAIV>CCLOA>?IB >@@LJJLA>QFLKFKQEBEB>OQ LC0LWK>ïGRPQQTLJFK T>IHCOLJQEBLIAJ>OHBQ PNR>OB'R>O>KQBBAQL>AA PMF@BQLVLROSFPFQ PMF Delicja ul. Mostowa 22, Oborniki Wielkopolskie, tel. 061 296 22 11, fax 061 296 15 26, [email protected], www. delicja.emeteor.pl. A 20km drive from Poznań city centre, Delicja features rooms decorated with prissy flowery patterns and standard hotel fittings such as satellite TV and air-con. Downstairs on-site facilities include fitness centre, sauna and conference room. Q27 rooms (27 singles 120 - 150zł, 9 doubles 200zł). PHAUFGDW hhh Dwór w Podstolicach (Podstolice Manor House) ul. Kasztanowa 50, Podstolice, tel. 061 438 68 08, fax 061 438 68 92, [email protected], www.podstolice. pl. Indulge yourself at this restored 19th century manor house. Set in an old park the final effect is over-the-top, and the glut of antiques and peacocks pose an obstacle course in themselves. Activities include shooting, driving range and banisters for kids to slide down. Period furnishings, oil paintings and other lavish antique trappings decorate the interior. Q15 rooms (14 singles 200 - 595zł, 13 doubles 270 - 660zł, 1 apartment 370 - 760zł). HARLGK poznan.inyourpocket.com ºàååØäæå¿æêëÜã Ì㥾îØéåب§¦© ¨¤®§ªÇæñåØå ëÜ㥧¨¯¬¨¬®¬® çæñåØå·ÚàååØäæåßæêëÜã¥Úæä ììì£ØÞããÖâäãÝäèéÚá£Øäâ Ċ½éÜÜàåëÜéåÜëîàă Ċ½éÜÜãæÚâÜéê Ċ½éÜÜÚàëðàåÝæ Ċ½éÜÜãØìåÛéð Ċ©«ßæìééÜÚÜçëàæå ¸åÛäìÚßäæéÜ July - October 2009 35 36 RESTAURANTS WHERE TO STAY The Polish Dwarf Born near the Polish city town of Halicz in 1739 Józef Boruwlaski rates as one of Poland’s most curious natives. Better known as The Polish Dwarf he was adopted at a young age by the Starostin de Carolix though her subsequent marriage meant he was soon transferred to the patronage of Countess Humieka and her estate in Rychty. When he was fifteen, and a mere 64 centimetres, the countess took him to visit the royal court in Vienna where he subsequently hobnobbed with Viennese high society. While perched on the knee of Empress Maria Theresa he remarked ‘there is nothing so wonderful as to see such a little man on the lap of so great a woman’. The flirty remark delighted the Empress and moved her to present him with her diamond ring. The ring was too big for Boruwlaski so the Empress called on one a young princess present to award him with her ring instead. That princess was a six year old Marie Antoinette, who would later achieve infamy at the business end of a guillotine. From Vienna the countess and Boruwlaski toured the courts of Germany and France, and it was at Luneville where the pocket-sized Pole was introduced to the retarded French dwar f Bebe. An immediate friendship was struck, though it wasn’t long till things took a coulourful turn. Measuring four inches taller than our hero Bebe soon became jealous of the attention heaped on Boruwlaski, and during a fit of pique attempted to throw the Pole into a fire. Servants intervened and saved Boruwlaski, while Bebe was chastised, whipped and expelled from the royal household. Little is known of the fate of the Frenchman, though one history book asserts that he died of ‘mortification and spleen’. Although apparently a keep-fit fanatic and teetotaller, Boruwlaski nonetheless enjoyed the Parisian highli fe, attending masked balls, pageants and banquets. An incurable romantic, Boruwlaski enjoyed flirting, and we are assured that his romantic lustings were often mutual. However when Boruwlaski fell in love with the Isalina Barbutan, the countess’ domestic companion, the countess threw him out in rage. Poland’s King Stanislas II intervened, gave Boruwlaski an allowance, and with royal approval the Pole later married the subject of his desire. Using royal letters of introduction the dwarf toured the courts of Europe and Turkey, entertaining the rich with his sharp wit, dapper dance moves and masterly violin skills. One tour of Britain paired him with the Irish giant Patrick Cotter, which proved a particular hit with the paying public. He sired several children with his wi fe, and with money to his name Boruwlaski eventually published his memoirs and took retirement in the English town of Durham. The dwarf lived to see 97, and although happily married, one anecdote from his Durham days reveals his wife would often place him on the mantelpiece if he ever irritated her. Poznań In Your Pocket Euro Hotel Swar zędz ul. Cies zkowskiego 33, Swarzędz, tel. 061 647 47 47, fax 061 647 47 48, [email protected], www.eurohotel.swarzedz.pl. Comfortable, sparkling clean, and with a boxish exterior that would not be out of place on a modern retail estate. Inside Euro has high-standard rooms with rich scarlet carpets and modern amenities. The hotel restaurant occupies a marblefloored atrium, and certainly looks the part.Q52 rooms (42 singles 150 - 350zł, 10 doubles 220 - 450zł, 1 triple 280 - 500zł, 7 suites 250 - 500zł, 2 apartments 400 - 550zł). HARULGKW hhh Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce but its restaurant scene is still very much in its infancy. You will find a scattering of world-class restaurants, but you're ethnic options are limited in both number and quality. The opening hours we list are flexible, and most will stay open past their closing times if customers are still lingering. The prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and dearest dish on the menu. As with most of the city's bars and clubs, restaurants tend to remain open past their official closing times if customers are lingering. Green Hotel ul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. 061 810 American 80 75, fax 061 810 81 23, [email protected], www.greenhotel.pl. If you're looking for accommodation away from the bright lights then Green Hotel presents a solid choice. Located in a wooded area 11km from the city centre, this hotel has a sleek American style, and a list of facilities as long as your arm. Modern interiors and pleasant colours. Q44 rooms (40 singles 240 - 649zł, 36 doubles 290 - 699zł, 4 apartments 699 - 899zł). PTHAULGKDCW hhhh NEW Hot_elarnia ul. Morenowa 33 (Puszczykowo), tel. 061 898 37 80/061 898 37 81, fax 061 898 37 90, [email protected], www.hotelarnia.pl. Who would have thought it. The opening of Fancy House, Blow Up Hall and now Hot_Elarnia surely make Poznań Poland's trendiest city. Okay, so Hot_Elarnia isn't actually directly in Poznań, but that's a fact we're going to overlook. From the outside you'd expect a traditional country lodge experience with rooms decorated with frills and lace. Think again. This place comes with a cutting edge design that includes light coloured attic rooms with beds you can't resist bouncing up and down on. Space age and futuristic, with an excellent spa and wellness centre on-site. Q13 rooms (11 singles 450zł, 11 doubles 500zł, 2 suites 550 - 600zł). PTHAFGKDCW hhhh Ossowski ul. Dąbrówki 1, Kobylnica, tel. 061 815 81 00, fax 061 815 81 88, [email protected]. pl, www.hotel-ossowski.com.pl. A smart hotel offering three star standards and accommodation that comes with satellite TVs perched high in the corners, and smallish bathrooms that positively sparkle. A fitness center with Jacuzzi and sauna looks set to be added in the not-too-distant future. Q79 rooms (74 singles 180 - 300zł, 65 doubles 200 - 400zł, 2 triples 330 - 450zł, 2 suites 300 - 550zł, 1 apartment 550 - 900zł). HARUGKW hhh Pałac Wasowo ul. Parkowa 1, Kuślin, tel. 061 447 26 13, fax 061 447 26 19, [email protected], www. wasowo.pl. Pick between staying in a baroque mansion, a neo-gothic palace or a rustic-themed gardener's cottage. The Wąsowo complex is well off the radar - 40km from Poznań but you'll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Poland which can boast the same level of history and heritage. Each room is furnished in individual style, offering a good balance of antiques and modern gadgets. Indoor swimming pool, wine cellar, billiard room and horse-drawn carts are just a few of the distractions at your disposal. Q60 rooms (51 singles 160 300zł, 51 doubles 220 - 390zł, 9 apartments 450 - 700zł). THAUKDCW hhhh www.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com NEW Niku Restauracja ul. Piątkowska 200, tel. 061 826 74 27, www.niku.pl. Good value food that fills any gap you've acquired while using the squash, bowling and fitness facilities. Quality goes way beyond the standard you'd expect from a wellness/leisure centre, as do the artsy cocktails and steaks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (26-82zł) PAU Rodeo Drive C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 853 72 48, www.rodeodrive.pl. Aspiring rednecks could do a lot worse than showing up to Rodeo Drive, a spacey venue which combines bare bricks, steel pipes and skylights with saloon-style touches like cacti, cattle horns and hussies in cowgal hats. The menu includes wings and ribs, but most people are here for the steaks - among the best in town. There's a few to choose from, with the filet mignon winning our vote every time; pair it up with bacon branded beans and some loaded jacket potatoes.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (24-70zł). PTAUEBXSW Rooster C-2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. 061 853 40 65, www. rooster.pl. Rooster is where burgers meet Baywatch; a sort of TGI Tits if you please. The food is fine, nothing more challenging than ribs and wings served up in interiors sprinkled with midWest number plates and telegraph poles. People come here for the waitresses - tanorexic bombshells with plenty of bits and boobs sticking out of lycra uniform. QOpen 11.00 - 24.00, Fri, Sat 11.00 - 01.00. (16-40zł). TAUBXS Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38, www.sioux.com.pl. A Wild West eatery with a Clint Eastwood design and a permanent crowd of cheerful diners. The menu includes pizza and ranch food, while drinkers should note the existence of an ‘open late’ burger outlet on the corner.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (16-100zł). PTAEBXSW Sioux Classic D-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. 061 851 62 86, www.sioux.com.pl. Spaghetti Western décor and staff dressed as cowboys and injuns lend a bit of a theme park atmosphere to this place, and the wagon and wig wam style goes well with long, lairy nights where drinking is every bit as important as dining. Good fun with a decent menu of mid-west bites.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (20-99zł). PTJABS SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/ poznan. It's amazing what a good burger can do to raise the spirits, and they don't get any better than the one in Someplace Else. This Sheraton based bar/eatery gets the food right every time, and remains your only hope for authentic Tex Mex dining in Poznan. The diner design is right out of road trip America, and is a great backdrop for ties-off, after office chow.QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Closed from July 20 August 20 (18-74zł). PTAUEXSW poznan.inyourpocket.com Chinese Azalia B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 853 24 42, www.azalia.poznan.pl. Size counts in Azalia, a venue with an infinite menu and a floor plan that could fit a factor y. The chow won’t wow, with the dishes usually eclipsed by an interior soaked and drowned in dragons and lanterns. Q Open 12:00 - 22:30. (15-40zł). PTAXS Klub 65 Stary Rynek 64 /65, tel. 061 853 06 58. Jack-of-all-trades, master of none. The Chinese food here is Uncle Ben standard, while the Italian… well, they had run out by the time we placed our order. What kind of restaurant runs out of food you may ask? The kind which has fruit machines in the corners, and blokes in leather jackets playing them. Further investigations concluded after a quick glance at the scatological surprise in the toilet.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Pekin B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 33, tel. 061 852 63 70, www. pekin.pl. Relive the age of Bruce Lee in this vivid riot of dragons, pagodas and hanging lanterns. With Bambus on skid row Pekin have stepped in and nicked the title of Best Chinese. A prodigious menu covers pretty much anything ever served in a Chinese restaurant, and the duck dishes are always a hit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-49zł). PTAXS Zielony Smok (The Green Dragon) B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 7, tel. 061 851 35 95. Apparently they serve Vietnamese and Chinese food but we were stuck to find anything resembling either. Walk past, swiftly.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (11-33zł). PAGS Czech NEW Česká Hospoda D-1, ul. Żydowska 26/4, tel. 061 852 48 98, www.ceskagospoda.pl. Ever y now and again along comes a meal that we can't stop talking abou t, and while Czech cuisine might not strike you as the next culinar y trend we simply can't recommend this place highly enough. This is cer tainly not the fog gy beer hall you might expect, rather a smar tly furnished narrow space featuring a superb garden outback. It's highl y likel y you'll be greeted at the door by Michał, the affable proprietor, and when he's not chatting with the customers you'll find him in the ki tchen cooking up fantastic meals like steak with elderberr y sauce indeed, this is the best cooked cow in town. On top of that, there's some great extras to compliment your pint of Pilsner; tr y the freshly baked pretzels, for instance. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (30-45zł). TABXSW Symbol key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted E Live music S Take away T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled G Smoking ban L Guarded parking I Fireplace 6 Animal friendly R Internet W Wi-Fi V Home delivery X Smoking section July - October 2009 37 38 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Fine dining French Bażanciarnia C-2, Stary Rynek 94, tel. 061 855 33 59, Patio D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 855 10 27, www. www.bazanciarnia.pl. The work of celebrity restaurateur Magda Gessler Bazanciarnia is the first, last and only choice if you're looking for a meal befitting a Tsar. The interior is a bit country toff meets Laura Ashley, with lots of fruit, flowers and chandeliers to clatter into, while the menu is everything you'd find on a forest floor after a blindfolded squire has fired off a few rounds; venison, lamb, boar, as well as the house specialty, pheasant marinated in orange juice.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (46-250zł). PTAIBXSW Delicja B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 852 11 28, www. delicja.eu. Poznań fine dining doesn't get better than this. Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of French, Italian and Polish recipes including superb pieces of cooking such as roast lamb and beef sirloin. This definitely falls at the upper end of the food chain, and the interior comes filled with silver candleholders, immaculate linen and classical music. As soon as the sun comes out, take advantage of one of the better gardens in town. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (38-72zł). PTYAUEBXSW Dom Vikingów C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. The Viking's House isn't half as primitive as it sounds. On the contrary, this Danish owned spot has a crisp urban look and a client base that at times feels overwhelmingly cashed-up and foreign. And yes, while there are Danish dishes on show, there's plenty of alternative options for the non-Scandic visitor. There's a few places claiming Poznan's best steak, and the one in DV is certainly up there on the leader board.QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (39-86zł). PTABXW Figaro C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. 061 852 08 16, www. Eating at a Glance Splurge Any ‘Best of’ list in Poznan is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for the Blow Up Hall. And yes, not only are they in possession of Poznan’s best hotel, but also the most impressive restaurant. Find (very) modern versions of Polish cooking in a neo-industrial setting that couldn’t be more cutting edge if it tried. For more traditional dishes and settings then check our Fine Dining section – Delicja and Le Palais score particularly highly. Couples Figaro is so OTT you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different why not eat in the pitch black at Dark Restaurant. If the sun is shining then head to Zydowksa where most cafes and restaurants have knockout gardens in the back – our favourite Czeska Hospoda. If you’re in a cafe mood then don’t miss the garden in Cocorico. Polish Mlynskie Kolo sources local produce and has an authentic rural Polish atmosphere – if it was closer to town it’d be unbeatable. Also noteworthy are Zagroda Bamberska, a place serving traditional Bamberg recipes, and the peasant themed Wiejskie Jadlo. One more for the hitlist, and that’s Nalewska, a great restaurant with a pleasing choice of herbal vodkas to aid your night. Ethnic There’s a fair range of ethnic options in Poz, but some of them are going to come close to killing you. For reliably good Indian we recommend Reeta’s and possibly Buddha. We say possibly because it appears Buddha now appear to be more focussed on the clubbing angle of their enterprise. For sushi both Sakana and Kyokai are excellent. Poznań In Your Pocket figaro.poznan.pl. Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst the starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pasta, beef tenderloin and veal and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is their fish menu, reputed to be the best in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. (25-57zł). PTAS Le Palais du Jardin C-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. 061 665 85 85, www.lepalais.poznan.pl. Nouvelle cuisine in a modern, cream coloured setting. The menu is considered one of the best in the city, and is comprised of dishes like monk fish and lamb. There's also an impressive wine list to gargle through, and staff far removed from the utter nincompoops employed in some of the nearby venues.QOpen 12:00 23:00. (54-99zł). PTAX Panorama K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77 (HP Park Hotel), tel. 061 874 11 56, www.hotelepark.pl. Views of Lake Malta are the main selling point here, and come sunset it really does get quite romantic. An inoffensive, play-it-safe interior reflects the hotel location, but the chefs do well in creating good value dinners that really do merit the taxi trek out here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-61zł). PTYAUXSW Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061 842 77 90, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Yes it's in a hotel, but this is no three star, pastel colour, logo clad, looks-like-a-privatehospital sort of place. Okay, the hotel is three star, but Zagroda Bamberska has enough class and character to be awarded a bracket of its own. So too the restaurant, a cacophonous cross-timbered hall in which diners get to try dishes cooked to original Bamberg recipes. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (14-41zł). TAUGBSW poznan.inyourpocket.com patio-poznan.pl. A pretty old town spot that brings Provence to your doorstep. The name alludes to the interior, which is all patio furnishings, droopy plants and even a mock fountain set in the corner. The crepes are overpriced and lack any ooh la la, but the rest of the menu seems to elicit positive enough reaction - the salmon steak is lovely. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (15-49zł). AXSW Fusion Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton. pl/poznan. Top class dining in the Sheraton's showpiece restaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it's meant to be with inventive dishes like chicken marinated in coconut milk appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor to ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Above average prices, but with the quality to warrant the indulgence. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 17:00. (58-86zł). PTAUXSW Pracownia D-2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. 0 508 13 16 64. A smooth looker of a venue with lots of dark woods, clever lighting and interesting contraptions dangling from the ceiling. The menu is fusion inspired, with bountiful choices for our vegetarian associates, and this long, narrow newbie looks set to become a personal favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-30zł). TABXS Greek Artemis C-1, ul. Wroniecka 21, tel. 0 618 48 43 16. Peering through the window and prospective diners will be left staring at rows of empty seats. Persevere. Insist on sitting downstairs, in the vaulted brick cellar, before perusing a classic menu touting all the lamb and grilled goodies you can handle. It's not life changing, but we like it. You probably will too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-68zł). PAXS Pireus E-4, ul. Głogowska 35, tel. 061 866 51 27, www. pireus.poznan.pl. A typical caricature of the Greek restaurant abroad. Plaster statues and Doric pillars fill the compact venue, and the small but straight-forward menu holds all the usual suspects: gyros, kalamari and souvlaki. Industrious service and a casual atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (13-60zł). TAXS Tawerna Grecka Mykonos B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 853 34 36, www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Relive your Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned joint. Blue and white interiors come adorned with pics of Greek beach scenes and scale models of fishing vessels while the menu is a romp through classics like souvlaki and lamb served with lemon sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (15-48zł). PTAESW Indian Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Sieroca 10, tel. 061 852 33 99, www.buddhabar-poznan.pl. At last, Poznan gets the Indian restaurant it deserves. Accessed by a red carpet this place looks like it cost a fortune, with every inch covered with woodcarved panels, gold braided drapes and intricate ironwork. Presiding over it all, a smarmy looking giant Buddha. But while the food remains excellent it's with a token of concern you may notice the revamped menu - gone are the list of poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 39 40 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Indian staples, replaced instead by a cut-down, ‘best of India' selection. Even more disturbing is the addition of French Fries to the Indian starters. Worse still the owners appear keen to promote this place as a club first, restaurant second, so don't be surprised to find your dining interrupted by ditzy twenty something's dancing to very loud Bollywood tunes.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-50zł). PTABXS Reeta's Haveli G-4, ul. Ratajczaka 23, tel. 061 853 47 77. These are great times we live in. Having waited years for a decent Indian the city can now boast two. So, how does this newbie weigh up against Buddha? Very well is your answer. The madras has a cheeky bite, while the chicken tikka masala is gaining a fan club of its own. Set down a basement the intimate Reeta's boasts a far superior atmosphere if not design over Buddha, while the service is every bit as proficient as it is attractive. Couple of points mind, an alcohol license is desperately needed, as are proper plastic tubs for takeaway - curry does not belong in a styrofoam box.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (23-40zł). PTAEXSW Indonesian Corcovado D-1, ul. Wroniecka 16, tel. 061 663 63 34, www.corcovado.pl. While Corcovado occupies the middle ground between café and restaurant, the owners say it leans slightly more toward the restaurant end of the scale. Sure enough, the menu is comprised of rather upscale European dishes that wouldn't be out of place in a more formal spot. But a café atmosphere prevails: brick walls adorned with artsy black-and-whites, a mellow atmosphere, and a slightly bohemian middle-class crowd. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (27-44zł). TJABXS Dark Restaurant D-2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 NEW Warung Bali C-1, ul. Żydowska 1, tel. 061 853 23 11, www.warungbali.pl. Poznań's best Indonesian restaurant. So it's Poznań's only Indonesian restaurant, but even if there was competition this place would still draw the punters. Set around Balinese icons and carvings Warung impresses with authentic dishes like spicy beef coconut soup and shrimps with black pepper sauce. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 14:00 - 22:00. (18-49zł). PTAGSW International Alexander B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. 061 852 28 12, www.alexander.poznan.pl. A long standing favourite with our staff Alexander straddles that no-man's land between Stary Browar and the old town. Located on a steep hill this Mediterranean themed spot sits its diners amid twisting vines and cherubic figures, lending something of a ‘Cupid Goes Cooking' tone to your meal. The lamb is faultless, and the atmosphere high class and formal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (32-112zł). PTAUXSW Ali Baba C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 11, tel. 061 853 29 83, www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A cave-like interior with multicoloured lamps hanging from the ceilings and a menu that is not too dissimilar - but far more enjoyable - to Sphinx; lusty helpings of meat, pizzas and sandwiches with grilled fillings. A set of hookah pipes planted by the wall complete the Arabian Nights theme.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (19-42zł). PTABXS Bee Jay's C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, www. beejays.pl. Permanently docked in the shadow of the old town hall Beejay's features a nutty design (quarrying explosives, a model galleon) as well as a stained glass window depicting a Mexican, Indian and Scotsman. If that sounds like the start of a bad joke it most certainly isn't - it's the start of a bad meal. The menu is the definition of diverse, though the results aren't so much varied as plain poor. The chef here is a gentleman of shortcuts; the curry comes from a tin and the Mexican salsa is actually ketchup - at these prices, that's inexcusable.QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (20-96zł). PTJAUBSW Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. 061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. You might be here with the lads, in which case point your nose to the left, order some beer snacks and get stuck into their range of microbrews. Poznań In Your Pocket Alternately, sophisticates are going to be picking the right door, through which they'll find a cream dining room where dapper business types dine alongside gushing personal assistants dressed like Lois Lane. The menu is a bit of a juggling act, with influences from the Mediterranean, Germany and Poland, but the results hit double six every time. Save space for dessert - the choccy buns are a death by chocolate affair, and feel pleasingly sinful.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (30-48zł). PTJABXSW poznan.inyourpocket.com 91 70, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Here's a place with a great gimmick - it's pitch black. The theory behind this is simple; tell the waiter how many courses you plan on having, before being shepherded into the darkness by the staff (they're equipped with night vision goggles, so abandon any thoughts of doing a runner). The contents of the meal remain a mystery until the point of departure, at which point diners have the opportunity to have a natter with the chef.QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (50-100zł). PTAEGS Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51 17. On the one side a manly pub with football scarves and lots of lads, on the right hand side a pleasant restaurant with white on white colours, high-backed chairs and a constant stream of sightseers taking time out from the rigors of getting lost. The menu is a standard European effort with few surprises to be found. Expect a rundown of mainstay dishes like chicken breast and beef fillet. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. (22-55zł). PTAGS Imaret D-2, ul. Wielka 9. Find post-pubbers lining up outside the window for their traditional before bed kebab, while inside find a basic room with cut-price furnishings and a snack bar atmosphere. Popular at all hours, with the reason being Imaret far exceeds your usual fast food haunts. Grilled koftas and lamb accompanied by a spicy sauce are just two options, and the service is leagues ahead of the twits you usually find carving up your kebab.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (17-20zł). GS TRY OUR NEW TEX-MEX DISHES STARTING IN SEPTEMBER www.someplace-else.pl Perfect place for sport fans Watch all sport events live on 6 LCDs and a huge screen Brunch Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Shera- ton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. You’ve now got a very good reason to get out of bed on Sunday, that being the Sheraton Sunday Brunch. Adults pay 109zl (half price kids between 6-12, free for anything younger), a price which buys a lavish buffet spread, free flow booze, live music and a supervised kids corner. Popular with high rolling Poles, and expats who’ve just rolled out of bed, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better use for a Sunday afternoon. Open from 12:30 to 17:00.QPTAUXSW poznan.inyourpocket.com SomePlace Else Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznan, Tel. 061 655 2000 [email protected] Open daily from 5pm, on Sundays from 12:00 (enter through the main door of Sheraton) July - October 2009 41 42 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS NEW In Flagranti D-1, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. 061 853 32 50, We warmly invite you to our restaurants, which guarantee excellent cuisine and serve a rich and varied menu. www.inflagrantipoznan.pl. A voluptuous venue where everything comes drowned in rich crimson colours and the dim flicker of tea candles and fairy lights. You bet it's romantic, and the menu is damn good as well; check out the chicken in lemon pepper sauce.QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (20-30zł). PTAXS Restauracja de Rome al. K. Marcinkowskiego 22, 61-827 Poznan tel. + 48 61 852 81 21, [email protected] www.hotelrzymski.pl TUSCAN CUISINE Excellent meats are our chef’s speciality! Admirers of delicious flavours are highly welcome. Restauracja Zapadnia E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, tel. 061 848 48 85 ext. 202. In the cellar of the renovated Now y Teatr, Zapadnia looks and feels like an upmarket restaurant, with only the prices sug gesting other wise. Spor ting a flashy bar, elegant seating and a clien tele of cul ture creatures this place is a pleasing surprise, with an inoffensive menu of generic European offerings. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (15-52zł). PTAUGSW Lizard King C-2, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72, www.lizardking.pl. Ringside views of the Rynek are one of the attractions of Lizard King, an old timer that unlike the rocks stars it celebrates looks like it’ll never die. Packed at all hours this place pays reverence to Doors, Stones, Beatles and Pistols, and is pretty much a cut price version of Hard Rock. The menu is burgers, steaks and other no-shockers, and seems to go down well with the twenty something crowd. Live bands do much to get the party jumping, and can frequently be heard from right across the Rynek.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-50zł). PTAEBXSW Restaurant de Rome C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Don't let the name fool you, the menu here is Polish and European with standards like zurek and pierogi alongside a few game dishes. It's right at the back of a three star hotel, with no windows and a tame interior that proves instantly forgettable. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00. (25-48zł). PTAUEXSW Lokanta C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 859 64 60. Found on the top floor of Stary Browar Shopping Mall, Lokanta proves one of the highlights of the food court. Although in direct competition with the next-door Sphinx, this lunch-on-the-run option fares well by cooking a range of quality kebabs and kofta. Expect to be battling for seats with hundreds of other shoppers, so bring a big stick to shoo them away. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (18-63zł). PAUXSW Madagaskar H-3, ul. Wielka 7, tel. 061 852 35 24, w w w.restauracjamadagaskar.pl. Safari print seats mingle with billowing sheets inside this white, cave-like space. It looks curious enough, treading a nervous line between kitsch and class, and the food is nothing less than global in spirit. T-bone steak, chicken masala and ‘Poznan duck' give an idea of what to expect, and for the most part the dishes are well executed and attractively presented. Definitely one to look into. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:00. PAUXS Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www.moodclub.pl. Talk about a revamp, this place has gone from looking like a student common room to a formal dining space decorated with alarming floral patterns. The menu includes some highly reasonable lunch deals, as well as pricey evening options such as lamb in rosemary and rabbit.Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-120zł). PTABXW Mosaica G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, www. mosaica.pl. This has emerged as one of the top eateries in town, with a modern international menu which includes Spanish tapas and pan Asian offerings. Of note is the sorbet, which comes prepared in front of your eyes. As the name suggests, mosaics are the central decorative theme here, and the interior comes topped off with a 1925 piano imported from Berlin - hearing it in action is worth the trip in itself.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29-99zł). PTAUEBXSW Poznań In Your Pocket www.papavero.poznan.pl. It's all very Day of the Triffids in Papavero, a lovely little restaurant that could easily be mistaken for an overgrown garden. Peer beyond the leaves and the cherubs and one finds a rather fine restaurant, with an American sirloin that does just enough to distract diners from engaging in daring flower theft.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-92zł). PTAXS Le Bistrot G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 667 12 96. A flashy, sleek cafe/bar/restaurant inside Star y Browar, and ample proof there's more to this mall than shopping. Set inside a shining cream interior Le Bistrot offers up a super selection of antipasti snacks and modern Mediterranean dishes ser ved to a smar t crowd laid down with bags with designer names. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (21-36zł). PTAUGS Bistro Rzymianka Papavero B-1, ul. 3 Maja 46, tel. 061 853 24 82, poznan.inyourpocket.com Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32 24, www.room55.pl. This place would last three minutes in the capital, but in Poznan a centre location, Peroni lager, decent wifi connection and English-speaking staff are enough to elevate a rather run-of-the-mill venue to heights not necessarily deserved. It's certainly not dreadful, but it's by no means the cutting edge bar or eatery some of the patrons (or staff) seem to think. It's a bar first and foremost, and that's reflected in the rather standard quality of food. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (18-140zł). PT JAUBXSW Rzymianka C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. This bright, informal, cafeteria-style restaurant in the Hotel Rz ymski is a popular breakfast spot. The continental breakfast is a fair deal and they also do omelettes and sausages from dawn. Lunch and dinner options include g yros, cu tlets, fried salmon, grilled pork, ribs, pasta and salads. The menu has crystal-clear colour photos of the dishes so you know exactly what you’re getting. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-48zł). PTAUXSW Sól i Pieprz (Salt and Pepper) B-2, ul. Garncarska 2, tel. 0 781 95 03 95, www.solipieprz.com.pl. A completely naff name, but in the restaurant trade the buck stops with the food and there's no faulting the stuff that appears on the plate in front of you. On the menu find a series of modern Polish dishes - including super pierogi - served inside a pleasant environment which never comes close to outshining the chef. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-70zł). ABXS DESIGN RESTAURANT Exceptional marriage of culture and cuisine A magical place with a sophisticated interior Enjoy live music, concerts and events in a perfect atmosphere ;dgbdgZ^c[dgbVi^dcdggZhZgkVi^dcXVaa )-+&++,-%%% EaVX6cYZghV(!+&"-.)EdocVń, Poland Wdd`^c\5VcYZgh^V]diZa#ea lll#VcYZgh^V]diZa#ea Sonata C-2, ul. Wrocławska 14, tel. 061 852 27 01, www.restauracjasonata.pl. A modern European restaurant specialising in exotic creations like grilled salmon in mustard sauce. Th e main dining room is pleasant and unexciting, but downstairs you'll find an atmospheric brick vault with a piano and a fireplace. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (19-48zł). PTJAEX poznan.inyourpocket.com EdocV² July - October 2009 43 44 RESTAURANTS Meteors Some 10,000 years ago, the unsuspecting inhabitants of the forests 10km north of what is now Poznań were in for a nasty surprise when 4,500 tonnes of white-hot rock slammed into their back yard. Forgotten in the years that followed the Morasko meteor craters were only rediscovered in 1914, when soldiers who were digging trenches during World War I came across a 77kg lump of meteorite. In total, several chunks (containing 90 per cent iron) totalling 255kg have been found at the site, often by farmers. When the disintegrating Morasko meteorite came crashing from the cosmos, the impact created eight large craters, of which seven remain today (one having been destroyed by ploughing). The meteorites came from the northeast, as the crater rims are highest to the south and southwest, allegedly as part of a Perseid meteor shower linked with the wonderfully named comet ‘Swift Tuttle’. After 10,000 years of erosion, the largest crater is still 100m wide and 13m deep. Since 1976 the area has been protected as a nature reserve and is today easily accessible from Poznań. For your slice of intergalactic drama take tram number 12, 14 or 15 from ul. Roosevelta to the terminus at Os. Jana Sobieskiego, and then follow the bicycle route which goes under the railway and northwest towards Morasko forest. You can also get off the tram one stop earlier at Szymanowskiego, and change to bus N°88, which goes to Morasko village every 40 minutes. The craters are 600m from Morasko and 4km from the tram terminus and the surrounding beech forest is also home to numerous endangered plants. RESTAURANTS U Mnie Czy u Ciebie A-2, ul. Gwarna 3, tel. 061 852 58 82, www.umnieczyuciebie.pl. Lots of bare brick, clever lighting and sepia photos give this place a lifestyle mag look, and its already done a fair job on roping the customers in. The menu - comprising of salads, snacks and mains like chicken fillet - isn't the most adventurous you'll find, but that's by no means a handicap; what they do, they do well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:30. (12-50zł). PTABSW Ignacy Jan Paderewski Bernardino Ristorante B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. Born in Kuryłówka in 1860 the man many credit for sparking th e U pri si n g i s ri gh t fu l l y regarded as a national icon. Having entered the Warsaw Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor after graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they married, spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887 he made his public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious and his growing popularity saw him storm both Europe and the States, not just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. Da Luigi D-2, ul. Woźna 1, tel. 061 851 73 11. Low, low With the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where, having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising, he was elected Poland’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume his musical career. Wejście Obok C-1, ul. Zamkowa 4, tel. 061 850 14 90, www.wejscieobok.pl. A great little find, and one that's fitted with the sort of country cottage interior you'd expect in a fairytale. Most people use this as a café, and there's few better ways to lose a day than by turning up here with a clever sounding book. However, there is reason to linger into the night, and that's the presence of a rather decent menu that includes salads, pasta and roast beef.QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (9-48zł). PTAUBXSW Italian 061 855 12 17, www.bernardino.pl. A light and bright modern venue with a clean and crisp design that could have fallen from the pages of a design mag. Street-level views of Sw. Marcin allow for plenty of pedestrian watching, while the kitchen gives plenty of reason to return. Find the full gamut of Italian offerings on display, including a superior choice of pizza that knocks most of the competition out of the water. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (20-70zł). PTUEGBSW Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders in your spheres, though the spheres are very different’. Not one to miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very different, you are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays solo’. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation. His body was originally buried in a place of honour in Arlington Cemetery, Washington DC on the direction of President Franklin D Roosevelt where it was to remain until Poland gained its freedom. With Poland falling under the Soviet sphere of influence after the war that was not to be for several decades, and his body was finally returned in 1992 to Warsaw’s St John’s Cathedral. George Bush Senior led the eulogies at the ceremony, describing Paderewski as a ‘visionary statesman’, while noting that it was Paderewski who was responsible for Polish independence being included in President Woodrow Wilson’s Fourteen Points for Peace at the end of WWI. To this day Paderewski is held in reverence by all Poles, a fact confirmed by the number of parks, streets and buildings named in his honour. prices, a friendly welcome - sometimes by Luigi himself - and excellent pizza are enough to earn this restaurant its stripes. Actually, calling this place a restaurant is a little fanciful. This is more of a foggy trattoria, and mostly frequented by the students who spill out of the bars opposite.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-40zł). PTJGS Girasole D-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. 061 851 37 29. Easily overlooked on account of their end-of-old town location, though that doesn't mean you should. Simple but stylish, decorations include a wooden fittings, tiled floors and vases of cheerful flowers, and the menu hits the spot each time with homemade pastas and substantials like pork fillet with oranges. Liberal prices leave plenty of change for the wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27-45zł). TAGBSW La Scala C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 853 04 89, www. WHAT MORE FROM A RESTAURANT THAN GREAT ATMOSPHERE COMBINED WITH FINE FOOD? lascala.com.pl. One of the priciest meals in Poznań, served inside a fantasia of shimmery fabrics, stucco mouldings and murals depicting Venice in its full glory. Furnished with a flourish not a single inch has been left undecorated, with the overall effect leaving your eyes spinning in their sockets. In exchange for a peel of banknotes expect to be treated to outstanding renditions of Italian dishes from the updated menu. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (24-150zł). PTAEBSW Massimiliano Ferre B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 852 Poz Po oznań ań ul ul.G Gw G warna 3 81 12, www.mf.art.pl. A very decent restaurant – not that you’d guess; togged out in stone cladding and cheapy furniture M Ferre does bugger all to inspire confidence, and even less with a menu that reads in Polish only. Not much makes sense here, least of all the mystery meal called Heffalump, but what we do know is the food really is smashing value. The pizza here is superb, and made all the better by the modest price tags.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (11-56zł). PTAEBXSW Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 45 46 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Pizzeria Rozmaitości C-1, ul. Zamkowa 5, tel. 0 664 653 375, www.rozmaitosci.poznan.pl. The world turns upside down in Rozmaitosci, a venue where the staff are fantastic and the food the utter opposite. It is possible to get takeaway here, but only at times when the owner has had the foresight to order some boxes; otherwise take a seat and go to war on leather pizzas with a set of ultra bendy cutlery. Chances are you'll find yourself hiding unwanted slices under the table, in plant pots and even down your trousers anywhere but your mouth, in fact.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-69zł). PARGS Valpolicella C-2, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. 061 855 71 91, www.valpolicella.poznan.pl. This place hasn't changed since our debut issue; find 21 types of antipasti, the usual meat and pasta dishes and wines from Veneto inside a crazily asymmetrical decor painted in cartoon colours. Certainly reliable if nothing else.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (22-67zł). PTJAXS One of the most prestigeous sushi restaurants in Poland. Temple of taste in a classic, japanese style and decore, gathering many loyal customers. Unique place, perfect for intimate party or exquisite supper. All dishes prepared live - with the finest fresh fishes, seafood and original fresh ingredients. Even sushi opposites will find something delicious! Villa Magnolia Ristorante ul. Głogowska 40, tel. 061 865 34 48, www.villamagnolia.pl. A stately venue, and one which makes abundant use of chandeliers and marble columns. Everything looks Rolls Royce here, from the immaculate linen to dashing wait staff. For the most part diners will be parting with around 50 zlots for a main course here, though high rollers should look into ordering the jumbo prawns served in oyster sauce - a snip at 189 zeds. An excellent venue, though whether it will survive in the post-credit crunch world is open to debate. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-189zł). PTAEXSW Japanese Milano Ristorante F-2, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel. 061 852 87 45, www.milano2.pl. An interior of polished woods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop for one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but you're rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices. Q Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (29-110zł). PTAXS Mollini B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 852 53 33, www.mollini.pl. Pleasant new Italian venture delightfully free of cliché pics of Vespa's, Loren and the Coliseum. In fact, the only thing you'll find on the wall is wine, racks and racks of wine. This place takes itself seriously, and the menu is a knockout collection of faultless meals. This could yet become one of the top restaurants in Poznań. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (20-50zł). PTAEXSW Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),, tel. 061 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Attached to the side of the Stary Browar Shopping Mall Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with cream shades paired with moody lighting and striking art exhibitions. Although you'll find all the expected pasta and meat meals it's the fish that tends to steal the show here, which is something of a result in landlocked Poznań. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20-110zł). PTAUEBXW www.inyourpocket.com Poznań In Your Pocket Kyokai Sushi Bar ul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. 0 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Poznan's appetite for sushi keeps growing, and Kyokai is the latest contender in the battle of the chopsticks. Sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, Tokyo-style, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. The surroundings, set in a series of converted red brick buildings, looks chic and industrial, while the location - amid a high class shopping centre and hotel - mean no shortage of well heeled sushi fans.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-55zł). PTAUGSW Sakana Sushi Bar D-2, ul. Wodna 7/1, tel. 061 853 16 39, www.sakana.pl. Five star sushi served inside a pale vanilla coloured interior equipped with all the necessary rice paper panels and bamboo extras. Raw fish circles the bar in small wooden boats, ready to be snapped up by wasp-waisted fashionista revelling in the chance to showoff deftly executed chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (50-80zł). PTJAUGSW Sushi 77 D-2, ul. Woźna 10, tel. 061 853 33 86, www. sushi77.com. A narrow restaurant serving fresh cuts of sushi to Poznan’s growing band of Japanistas. Complimenting the fine raw fish are import beer and sake, as well as an international wine card to go with your choice. You could visit in daytime, and indeed many people do, but our suggestion is to wait till dusk when the lights dim and the atmosphere steps up a notch.QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-54zł). PTAGSW Sushi Sekai C-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. 061 853 35 33, www.sushisekai.pl. Your sushi sets come covertly prepared behind the scenes and presented to you inside a smartly appointed interior that features dark lacquered woods and square paneled lamps. Great presentation (keep an eye for the sushi sets laid out onto a wooden bridge structure), and good flavours, as well as a series of more substantial main courses such as beef sirloin in teriyaki sauce served on a hot plate. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (7-70zł). PTAXS poznan.inyourpocket.com CATERING AND DELIVERY AVAILABLE! Jewish Cymes D-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. 061 851 66 38, www. Open: Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00 Sun: 13:00-22:00 SAKANA Sushi Bar ul. Wodna 7/1 Poznań tel. 61 853 16 39 www.sakana.pl Made in Poland - Syrena cymespoznan.pl. Time stands still in Cymes, where Poznań's once rich Jewish heritage is perfectly preserved in a nostalgic dining room sprinkled with menorahs, empire furniture and clothcapped jars. The menu quite literally tells the story of Jewish cuisine and bursts with familiar dishes like carp, czulent and chicken skewers, presented by amiable white-shirted waiters. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00. (18-34zł). TJABS The sight of a Polish Maluch – a flimsy death trap on wheels – is still common on the streets of Poland. Like the Skoda in Czechoslovakia or the Trabant in East Germany this was to become the defining engineering product of communist Poland. Lesser known – essentially because it was never exported - is the Warszawa Syrena, a nimble vehicle inspired by the Russian Volga limousine. Mexican Its history dates from 1953 when the government took the decision to design a ‘peoples car’, aimed specifically at ‘labor leaders, scientists and intelligentsia’. Karol Pionnier was put in charge of the design team and over the next two years his crew worked tirelessly on producing a prototype. The car made its debut at the 1955 Poznań International Fair to national acclaim. Details included an engine adapted from a motor used to power water-pumps on fire engines, while the post-war scarcity of sheet metal meant that the frame was primarily fashioned from wood. Czerwone Sombrero B-3, ul. Piekary 17, tel. 061 852 61 01, www.czerwone-sombrero.pl. Granted, it's better than The Mexican, but then so is sifting through a hospital bin. Mexican food hasn't exported well to Poland, and here's more proof. The salsa is tame, the tortillas from a packet and the food buried under verdant fields of cabbage. It's two star stuff frankly, though what makes it palatable is a cracking atmosphere that's just perfect for tanking back the tequila. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (20-38zł). TAIBSW The Mexican C-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. 061 851 05 36, www.mexican.pl. Is the Polish food in Mexico this bad? Boyish waiters dressed as cowboys greet diners at the door, then lead you to take your chances on what might stand out as the most shocking meal of your year. We'd like to see a picture of the cook added to the Wanted posters, as the man is clearly a charlatan of the most sinister design. Barely defrosted tortillas arrive hidden under sickly green gunk that wastes no time in letting the intestines know they're in trouble. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 13:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (20-55zł). TAEBXS poznan.inyourpocket.com By 1958 the Syrena – so named after the Mermaid symbol of Warsaw – began rolling off the production line. Over the next few years numerous models were developed, including the Syrena Sport (vaguely modelled on a Porsche) and the 110 Limousine. By the time production was brought to an end in 1983 over half a million had been produced, with the car even making appearances during the Monte Carlo Formula 1 rally in the 1960s; its driver, Stanisław Wierzba, managing to miraculously score a pole position finish during one qualifying heat. Today the one-lock car is a collectors dream though all to rarely seen in public. July - October 2009 47 48 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Quick Eats Pizzerias Ali Baba B-1, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. 061 853 32 71, estella.com.pl. A spacious, traditional pizzeria with 45 types of pizza and an equally daunting number of pasta dishes. Long established, with a faithful set of followers who won't eat pizza anywhere else.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (13-69zł). PTJABXS www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A decent sit-down venture with the obligatory hunk of meat spinning on a skewer, and crowd of post-club fatalities getting chili sauce down their trousers. Pics of the middle east brighten the pastel coloured interior and the late night snacks rate highly with anyone whose broken the eight pint limit. Q Open 24hrs. (17-30zł). PAS Canappka B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 37, tel. 061 852 35 14, www.canappka.pl. Cheap and cheery sandwich stop that could be the answer if you’re doing lunch on the run. Think of it as a poor man’s Subway. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (3-13zł). PTAUGSW KFC E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1 (Poznan Railway Station), tel. 071 386 15 85, www.kfc.pl. If you need food but you’re at the train station then you’ve got two choices - food poisoning or KFC. We’ve tried both, and recommend the latter. A TV screen inside informs patrons of departures and delays, and there’s a small hatchway facing one of the platforms if you prefer to share dinner with the tramps and pigeons.QOpen 05:00 - 04:00. (11-30zł). PTAS McDonald’s B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, tel. 061 856 00 60, www.mcdonalds.pl. He might look like a weird sex pest, but you’ve got to hand Ronald McDonald his dues; the man knows how to make a good cheeseburger. Sometimes, that’s all that counts. Also on ul. Głogowska 14 (E-4).QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. (12-17zł). PTAUGSW Roti C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 061 851 68 87. Poznan’s best kebab comes tightly packed in a tortilla and served up by an enthusiastic boy clearly under the impression that working in an all night kebab shop is every bit as good as being an astronaut. Q Open 24hrs. (6-18zł). PGS Estella D-2, ul. Garbary 41, tel. 061 852 34 10, www. Pizza Hut G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 853 72 06, www.pizzahut.com.pl. Just what you'd expect. Also on ul. Szwajcarska 14, ul. Murawa 104 and ul. Kaspra Drużbickiego 2. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (20-40zł). PTAUGSW Tivoli D-1, ul. Wroniecka 13, tel. 061 852 39 16, www. pizzeriativoli.pl. A basic, intimate spot with wooden booths and bunches of garlic and spices hanging everywhere. A pioneer on the Poznań pizza scene since 1991, they serve 40 types of pizza with every ingredient you can think of and a few that would never occur to you, like peach and banana. Other locations can be found on Naramowicka 187 and Czesława 3. Expect the same. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (1231zł). TJABXSW Polish Bamberka C-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. 061 852 99 17. A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Tiffany lamps, stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardly formal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing to detract from a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł). PTJABXS Poznań - Woźna 10 st., tel.: (61) 853 33 86 • Gdańsk - Długie Pobrzeże 30 st., tel.: (58) 682 18 23 • Koszalin - CH Forum, Paderewskiego 1 st., tel.: (094) 345 43 03 • Sopot Monte Cassino 53 st., tel.: (58) 555 53 85 • Warsaw - Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 49 av., tel.: (22) 489 68 90 - Polna 48 st., tel.: (22) 492 21 13 - Nowogrodzka 38 st., tel.: (22) 622 92 14 - Żelazna 41 st., tel.: (22) 890 18 11 • Wrocław - Nożownicza 1 C st., tel.: (71) 341 72 71 - CH Arkady Wrocławskie, Powstańcow Śląskich 2-4 st., tel.: (71) 336 12 35 NEW Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99 90, www.blowuphall5050.com. Blow Up Hall will blow your socks off. If you can't afford the hotel, and not many can, then do at least spoil yourself and do the next best thing - visit for dinner. Apparently named after some 60s art flick this place really does leave you thinking you've travelled in time - approximately 200 years forward. The design is slick and sexy, perfectly complimenting the post-industrial surrounds, while the food involves artistically presented dishes such as cold plum soup with vanilla ice cream, boar fillet and calf shin in Chablis jelly; the typical Polish restaurant this most certainly isn't. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Open 07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00-23:00. (80-115zł). PAGBW Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38, www.sioux.com.pl. They’re open pretty much round the clock, though in truth no-one comes here until they’ve just put in a nightshift on a local dance floor. It’s during witching hours you’ll find a line of post-pub party people swaying in unison outside, as they wait for t-shirted cooks to weave their magic on burgers, sandwiches and kebabs. All three look and taste the same, and come bulked out with gherkins, onions, cabbage and sauce.Q 24hrs. (7-11zł). S Dramat C-2, Stary Rynek 41, tel. 061 856 09 38, www. dramat.com.pl. One of the few places in the Rynek where you can enjoy a pile of food without peeling off a number of banknotes. Serving a breakfast menu of sausages and eggs, late risers will head straight into their main menu which includes a pretty definitive list of Polish dishes - ranging from pierogi and their assorted fillings to pork chops. Vast, with stout wooden extending into the cellars and an amiable set of staff keeping a watchful eye on their customers. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (1430zł). TAGBSW Spagetheria C-2, Stary Rynek 76, tel. 061 852 32 85, www.avanti.poznan.pl. A no-frills sustenance solution that possibly rates as the best bargain you’ll find on the Rynek. The interiors are completely basic, but the food does the talking here, with a variety of very decent spaghetti combos to choose from. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (4-14zł). PTYJUGS Sphinx A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. 061 852 07 02, www.sphinx.poznan.pl. The Sphinx chain have cornered the quick and simple, budget dinner market, with fans of all ages squishing between coloured lamps and plastic trees to dine on burgers, kebabs and pizzas. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (14-46zł). PTAUBXSW Poznań In Your Pocket POZNAŃ•GDAŃSK•KOSZALIN•SOPOT•WARSAW•WROCŁAW Kresowa C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 853 12 91. This standout restaurant in the centre of Stary Rynek is pleasantly old-fashioned, with classic furniture and brisk waistcoated staff serving up appetisers like caviar and shrimp cocktail, and main dishes like veal, beef tenderloin and grilled salmon. Remember to look up: the ceiling is covered with witty caricatures of Polish celebrities who've eaten here, includpoznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com ing Nobel laureate Czesław Miłosz and tennis star Wojciech Fibak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (16-45zł). PTJAEXS Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that takes its ingredients seriously; the fish are caught first thing in the morning, while the duck apparently comes from the adjacent lake. Tell them in advance and they'll spit-roast a pig for you. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-69zł). TAUIEBW Markowa Knajpka C-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. 061 853 01 78. The village meets the city in Makowa Knajpka, a whitewashed room featuring dark timber fittings and some valium grooves. Excellent value local dishes are presented to a thirty something crowd by a team of friendly bargirls whose looks make the heart go ‘ping'. We've always settled for the ‘classic steak', and have yet to be disappointed.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri 13:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-52zł). AUEBXSW NEW Oaza ul. Koszalińska 15 (Jeżyce), tel. 0 601 70 30 80, www.strzeszynek.pl. Set under a thatched roof Oaza isn't the olde worlde hunters lodge you'd expect. On the contrary the design is clean and modern, with plenty of open spaces and natural light. It looks great, but how many times have we seen a restaurant put style over substance. That doesn't happen here, and that's all credit to a rather special chef. The menu is best described as modern Polish, and includes fresh catches from the local rivers and lakes, as well as fine interpretations of dishes like beef stroganoff. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00. (30-86zł). PAUEBS July - October 2009 49 50 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Pod Aniołem C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 852 98 54. Even the background din of big screen MTV doesn’t distract from what is a pretty good feed. Fine diners are going to run, but everyone else will appreciate the straight forward style here – the food is deliciously simple; hunks of meat cooked using local recipes and ser ved with crinkly fries. It won’t win awards, but it most certainly will fill any gap you’ve been minding. Cellos and fiddles hang from the ceiling, while the collection of wood furnishings and assorted junk lend themselves well to a pleasingly scatty decor.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-35zł). AXS Pod Dzwonkiem D-2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. 061 851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Resembling a traditional mountain lodge Under the Bell features a variety of rustic touches, with timber beams loaded with rusting machinery, pumpkins and ferns. Bar stools are fashioned out of saddles, while elsewhere diners can sit on seating carved from barrels, before ordering lavish helpings of ribs stewed in beer and honey, or skewered animals fresh from the grill. Simple but effective. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15-48zł). TABXSW Pod Koziołkami C-2, Stary Rynek 95, tel. 061 851 78 68, www.podkoziolkami.pl. A long standing restaurant that has been delighting both carnivores and vegetarians for years. Upstairs you'll find a huge pantry with the daily salads and pierogi on the menu. Head downstairs to the grill cellar for your daily protein quota. The interiors in this section are authentically shadowy with a medieval flavour, while the menu is a good range of meaty choices like sirloin steak. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-87zł). PTY JAEBXSW tions of traditional farmers fare. The menu here is meat and potatoes classic Polish, with tables positively sinking under the weight of all that cabbage, meat and vodka. Decorated with jars of pickles and rusty saws this is the definitive local dining experience, and a highly recommended way to kick off your visit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12-49zł). PTAGS Spanish Tapas Bar D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www.tapas.pl. Right on the corner of the Rynek this Spanish spot has long been popular with a cashed up local crowd. Service is stone faced but everything else wins gold stars; from a warm interior littered with wrought iron and Hispanic paintings to the steaks, which we rate as some of the best we've tried. The kitchen is right at the entrance, allowing diners the opportunity to hear their food sizzle and chefs clattering around cursing less competent colleagues. Always a good night, and sometimes excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (15-67zł). PJABX Taste Barcelona C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar II floor), tel. 061 278 76 86. Stary Browar keeps surprising us. Every shopping centre now claims to be ‘more than a mall', but here's one that actually justifies the hyperbole. Part of the reason is the endless stream of top notch eateries, and Taste Barcelona is one of the latest. The open plan design leaves diners open to peering eyes, but there's no faulting the aesthetics; clean, blond woods and coloured bottles set behind an illuminated bar. On the menu good quickie tapas bites cooked with confidence and presented with flair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (1530zł). PAXSW Ghosts! Those foolhardy enough to face the supernatural should consider a spot of ghost hunting. The former Royal Castle (C-1, Góra Przemysła) is the place you need to head to after dark. It’s here you may have the surprise of spotting ‘the white lady’, Ludgarda, the wife of Duke Przemysł II. Allegedly murdered in her bathtub by servants in 1283, some stories claim her death was ordered at the behest of her husband. Nowadays her ghost is said to roam what remains of the castle, sometimes with the figure of a ‘black knight’ next to her, apparently a man who was spotted crying at her funeral. There’s more chance to see phantoms if you head outside Poznań. Take for example the story of Halszka, a woman kept captive in a tower by her jealous husband. Forced to wear an iron mask during her fleeting trips to mass she ended her days insane, and nowadays her demented wailings can be heard haunting the tower of Szamotułchy Castle 30 kilometres north west of Poznań. Finally, check out Łagów Castle halfway between Poz and Berlin. The spooky likeness of former castle commander Andreas von Schlieben was first spotted here in 1820 when the president of the Poznań Treasury saw the ghostly shape of the knight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. Since then he’s been spotted several times, though only in spring and summer, and only by men. Best of all, the castle is now a hotel, and weird guests even have the choice of opting for a night in the ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed this is every gimp’s dream and comes complete with clunky manacles suspended from the walls and other scary bits and pieces. Pod Złotą Jabłonią (Under The Gold Appletree) UFOs Wielkopolska is something of a hotspot for the paranormal, and it’s not just the ghosts we’ve warned you about that go bump in the night. The district has also earned a bit of a reputation for UFOs (or NOLs as they are called in Poland). To date the most infamous case can be tracked to 2001 when a 20 year old woman happened upon an alien near Sieraków Lake. The 1.5 metre tall mantis-like extra-terrestrial allegedly stared emotionlessly into the eyes of the startled female before beating a speedy retreat into the surrounding cornfields. Small footprints were found the following day at the site, though efforts to later identify them drew a blank. Most recently reports of aerial weirdness have been filed in the region of Lake Malta, as well as Jeżyce Forest. Świerkowski claims that 95% of such claims can be put down to changes in atmosphere that mankind simply hasn’t discovered yet, though the other 5% of sightings remain an utter mystery. Real enthusiasts though will head nowhere else but Wylatowo, a small rural village situated halfway between Toruń and Poznań. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped object was photographed floating in the skies last year, with lab tests since confirming that there were no camera tricks or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s not the only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop circles first started appearing in the neighbouring fields Wylatowo has established itself as a mecca for Polski ufologists, While some claim the circles are the work of savvy farmers looking to make a quick buck. X-Files style investigations have yet to determine the cause of this annual summer phenomena. Poznań In Your Pocket D-1, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.podzlotajablonia.com.pl. There's something a little covert about dining here; lavish fittings and expensive looking artwork lend something of a private club atmosphere to this place. The menu is Polish influenced, though that does nothing to stop the chefs from letting their imaginations caper free - check out the duck in aniseed and honey. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (44-118zł). PTAEXSW Ratuszova C-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. 061 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.eu. Either dine on the ground floor or descend the stairs and into a sprawling cellar complete with vaulted ceilings and knightly murals. Ribs, steak, duck and other meaty meals come served by an efficient staff, and serious meat eaters can satisfy their bloodlust by ordering the Ratuszova plate; it includes three types of meat and feeds a tiger.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72zł). PTJAGBSW W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda A-1, ul. Fredry 12, tel. 061 665 88 01, www.w-z.pl. W-Z is nothing less than an A-Z of Polish cooking, with everything from pancakes to pierogi to pork knuckle to deal with. This place is vast, and comes rammed with the obligatory timber décor, flower pots and tree branches. Definitely a first stop to get acquainted with the local dinner habits, and highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (13-51zł). PTJAXSW NEW Wiejskie Jadło D-2, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkanska), tel. 061 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. What was once known as Chłopskie Jadło has changed it's name and absolutely nothing else. Which is good news all round; complimentary bread and lard precede hefty por- poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 51 52 CAFÉS Atmosfera (Atmosphere) D-1, ul. Mokra 2, tel. 061 851 03 99. Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west should make a beeline here. Going completel y against the grain these gu ys have taken the inspired step of getting rid of their no-smoking section; good work lads. This is a cracking cafe/bar, its two floors complete with creaking floorboards, fragile cabinets, weird ar twork and huddles of academics leafing through notebooks. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. AW CAFÉS Cafe Sekret C-2, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. 0 605 41 33 28, www.cafesekret.pl. A right little treasure this place, with a scattering of chambers set amid vaulted bricks walls and cobbled flooring. Dimly lit, and decorated with bursts of flowers and fruit, the owner appears to have something of a liking for brown - a nice colour for chocolate, yes, not so striking when thrown on furniture. Nevertheless, this café is a corker, and a bit of a favourite with the local cognoscenti. The house specialty is the ‘apple fantasy’, and it tastes all the better if the turtle-necked pianist is in residence.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. EBXSW Pod Pretekstem (Under a Veil) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from ul. Kościuszki 79), tel. 061 853 30 47, www.podpretekstem.pl. A quirky café/bar/ restaurant situated round the back of the Zamek. Trumpets hang from the ceiling and giant beetles adorn the walls. Art nouveau details abound with several oddities thrown in, and while the staff can frustrate with their mute and meek approach this remains one of the top café bars in the city. Every so often the lights dim and a pianist dressed in a cat black polo neck takes to the stage; worth the visit alone. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEBXSW Caffe Ławka D-1, ul. Żydowska 8, tel. 061 853 43 Pomarańcza D-1, ul. Żydowska 26, tel. 061 852 40 Cacao Republika C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 855 43 78. Full of rattan and spindly plants this slightly staid coffee stop benefits from its location, just round the corner from the square. Atmosphere is somewhat lacking, a fault compensated by freshly roasted coffee beans and a wide range of herbal teas.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00. TJASW 48. A super cafe bar with a girly Laura Ashley design in the front, and a great garden out the back. Lying in between is a temporary building site, meaning you’ll be stepping over hammers and spanners as Polski builders clank around you. It’s well worth the brush with the working class, the garden is ace, and if you’re lucks in you’ll be treated to the sound of a talented neighbour practising violin. On the menu a vast choice of desserts and teas, as well as frozen smoothies made using the fruits of the season. Q Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. TAEXSW Cafe Bordo D-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3, tel. 061 851 Cocorico D-2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. 061 852 95 29. Post-Office Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. 061 670 64 48. It took us months to locate this place, it’s that small - find it yourself by pointing your beak towards those colourful burgher buildings right by the town hall. Set on two levels this pumpkin-sized cafe features a postal theme with the Queen’s head embossed onto the surfaces, and a loyal fan base who squeeze in to enjoy Japanese-style omelettes (no, we’ve no idea ei ther) and other international oddities. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. ABSW Behemot D-1, ul. Kramarska 16, tel. 0 784 52 25 11. The cat lovers choice. Find cat pictures adorning every possible space, some cute, some scary. A gigantic stock of teas, and decent selection of desserts are at your disposal. The dark lighting makes it a good spot for an intimate encounter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. J 00 81, w w w.cafebordo.com. The garden is one of the best in town; stuffed with flower pots, vines and a fountain. Alternatively head indoors where the aroma of herbal tea hangs thick in the air, and a middle-aged crowd whisper amid fli ckerin g candles and b ot tles of wine. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TJABXW Best known for its fairytale garden Cocorico would still warrant a visit even if sun felt out of the sky. In colder times bolt yourself inside amid a charming topsy-turvy interior heaving with chintz and sepia photographs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JABS Czekolada D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 92 91, www.czekoladacafe.pl. A trendy version of Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory. Stark white walls, earth coloured drapes and chill-out tunes generate an edgy atmosphere. The staff are brilliant, the clientele wear black and the toilet has to be the most space-age in Poznań. The menus, attached to big wooden sticks, cover all imagainable chocolate perversions: from chocolate fondue to ‘Mexican chocolate chicken’. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. TJABSW Filigrando Cafe & Lunch C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 667 12 15, www.filigrando.pl. Just as Stary Browar has proved to be much more than a mall Filigrando proves to be much more than a café. Placed in the part that connects the new and old wing of Stary Browar this fancy café isn’t unlike climbing into a wedding cake, what with all the frills and snow white colours. Crammed with bird cages, bits of straw and racks of wine this place is an aesthetic pleasure, and far beyond the café stops usually found in malls. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PTAUEBXSW Kawka D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 852 60 70. A popular spot for afternoon coffee or an after-work beer, the windows here always appear to catch the sunlight. Sporting a style that falls between artsy and rural, Kawka features black-and-white prints, a piano and a cupboard topped with a battered suitacase. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 24:00. PJAS Pożegnanie z Afryką A-2, ul. Szkolna15 (entrance from ul. Jaskólcza), tel. 061 855 33 49, www.pozegnanie. com. View coffee contraptions of every size and style inside this nationwide chain. Equipped with bags of beans and jars of coffee leaves this place looks every inch a contender, and the drinks menu is truly global in its scope. QOpen 10:00 21:00. Closed Sun. AGS Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com 67. Poznań’s café strip gets better with the addition of Pomarancza. Modern art combines with decent teas and coffee though the lasting impression will be of the orange theme; find everything from chunky orange candlesticks to mandarins sitting inside flowerpots in this cheerful neighbourhood café. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. JAE Red Erik Café C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Home to a number of bars, restaurants and cafes the Dom Vikingow complex is a self-contained ex-pat world, and what is known as the Red Erik bar is the most prominent venue of the lot. Occupying the ground floor this restobar crossover packs out the moment work finishes as off-duty business bods take to the bar to size up the cocktails and impress blonde bargirls with their faltering grasp of the local lingo. Always a smashing night out, with an all-purpose menu that unites dishes from across the world, including curries, wraps, burgers and steaks.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TABW Soho D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 221 70 45, www. cafesoho.pl. A small one-window affair piled with orangeish sofas and armchairs. The artwork on the walls changes regularly: on our visit a quirky photographic homage to the Mini Cooper. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JABSW Stacja Cafe (The Station) D-2, ul. Woźna 1 (etrance from ul. Klasztorna), tel. 0 509 50 80 49. Sink into one of the armchairs and enjoy one of Poznań’s best kept secrets. Cluttered with board games and framed pictures expect a murky Krakowian ambience. Clarinets and violins hang from walls, the music is soft and moody and the interior complete with stone cobbles and a street light. If that doesn’t set the pulse racing, a stolen glance at the barmaid will. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PXS Umberto D-1, ul. Żydowska 28, tel. 061 851 54 52, www.umberto.com.pl. In the thick of Poznan’s cafe quarter Umberto has a trattoria atmosphere and a concise menu of Italian mains. A popular destination on a street not short on culinary stars.QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. TAGBS poznan.inyourpocket.com The Enigma Code The vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle of Britain, who represented one in eight Allied pilots and whose 303 Squadron boasted the best hit rate against the Luftwaffe, is today common knowledge. As is the role Polish forces played in breaking the siege of Monte Cassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesser known Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in 1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took place inside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack the German Enigma code. What’s this got to do with Poznań, we hear you ask. Well, it all began here, namely in the mathematics class of Poznań’s University. Ace students Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski came to the attention of Polish intelligence services on account of their excellent German skills and sharp mathematical minds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsaw alongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the three were set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. It was here they made the first vital Engima breakthrough using a mathematical theorem since described as ‘the theorem that won WWII.’ On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the three fled to Romania where they immediately sought contact with the Allies. Originally they turned up at the British Embassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘come back in a few days’ decided to try their luck with the French instead. This proved more successful and from there they found themselves in France, working in Cadix, a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupied south. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growing greater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned at sea in 1942 after the boat carried him sank in suspicious circumstances, Zygalski and Rejewski however made it to Spain, in spite of being robbed by the man guiding them over the Pyrenees. More calamity followed: the pair were arrested by Spanish police and imprisoned, only freed the following year after intervention by the Red Cross. Seeking sanctuary in England they were employed in Boxmoor cracking simple SS codes. In spite of having done the groundwork that broke the original Enigma code their knowledge was not called on by the American and British codebreakers who were cracking new and improved Enigma codes at Bletchley Park, hence the vital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade in the memory. After the war Rejewski returned to Poland where he spent the rest of his days under scrutiny from internal security services, and working in a succession of menial jobs. When he published his life story in 1973 he became an unwitting superstar, and his work was finally recognized with a series of honours. He died in 1980, buried in Warsaw’s Powązki Cemetery. Zygalski chose to remain in England and spent the post-war years working as a maths teacher. He died in 1978 and is buried in London. Although the trio have since received numerous posthumous awards their role in winning the war remains a little-known fact in the West, a cause not helped by silver screen rubbish like the 2001 movie Enigma. Since 1983 a memorial tablet at Poznań University’s Collegium Majus has been in place honouring the three, and in 2006 an obelisk bearing their names was unveiled on ul. Św. Marcin in what was formerly the Maths Department of the uni. July - October 2009 53 NIGHTLIFE 54 Poznan bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square area, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego and ul. Taczaka both of whom draw students in their droves. Bars & Pubs Academic Pub B-3, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. 061 853 69 80. While the name suggests you’ll find crowds of intellectual swats you can rest assured that the last thing the students who drink here have on their mind is tomorrow’s lecture. This is a plain brick cellar with décor limited to wooden benches and promotional bumph announcing the availability of Red Bull and Lech. The juke box seems to play a continuous cycle of Polish pop hits, while the toilet never ceases to amaze with its sights and smells.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Agawa E-3, ul. Mickiewicza 28, tel. 061 847 23 27, www.dart.dmf.pl. Darts heaven. Do your drinking inside a colourful environment of plastic trees and orange walls while the thump of darts missing their target sounds off in the background. The backroom here is lined with electronic darts boards, buzzing and whirring furiously as amateur sportsmen practice their noble pursuit. If you're here for a while then broaden your social horizons by joining one of their leagues. Ask at the bar for details. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sun 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PBX Barcode C-2, Stary Rynek 53/54, tel. 0 668 09 10 09, www.barcode-poznan.pl. An itsy little cocktail bar with room for about twelve people, or fifteen if they're small. Decorated in muted cream and chocolate colours this place has a mildly retro air, pre-club choons and a frightened little blond thing peeking over the bar. It is a cocktail bar, though you'll be lucky to find any flair or flamboyance employed in the making of your drink.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PABXW Bee Jay's C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, www.beejays.pl. It could only work in Poznan. Find cherubs, stained glass and bagpipes squeezed amidst flashing disco lights and lairy promotional material supplied by Red Bull. The music is loud, and often rubbish, but Beejay’s still wins customers on account of a good spread of seats, decent drinks selection, and some good lookers behind the bar. They do food, but then so do prisons.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJAIEW Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Woah, if there's one place that's left an impact this issue it's the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. As for the bar itself, that's a multi-angled, zinc plated masterpiece that has no rival. It's not often we attach the words unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBW NEW Blueberry bar B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, www.blueber- rybar.pl. Where do glittery disco balls go when they die? To Poznan of course. The city loves them, and nowhere more so than Blueberry. White and minimal the design here involves lots of awkward angles and multi-coloured lights, while its apparent success appears as further proof of Sw. Marcin's rapid resurgence. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PUEW Poznań In Your Pocket NIGHTLIFE Blue Note Jazz Club A-1, ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it - don't let that fool you, this venue is a legend, with some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz performing in the past. Do check what's cooking beforehand mind; this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAE Bodega Cafe D-1, ul. Żydowska 4, tel. 061 851 00 94. This is where the local night cats head to when they grow up. Popular with a late twenties crowd Bodega features low lounge seating, chocolate colours and subdued lighting. Find the wine room outback.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. PAB Bogota A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 71 33, www.bogotaclub.pl. Bogota? Bog standard, more to the point. This place is as Colombian as your garden shed, with nothing to cheer this bland basement waste other than some token scraps of Aztec art and a collection of uncomfortable benches. At a guess there approximately 100 better bars to visit. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAGW Brogans Irish Pub D-1, ul. Szewska 20a, tel. 061 852 50 73, www.brogans.pl. Loud, smoky and slightly murky, Brogan's is everything you expect from an Irish pub, with a cracking atmosphere that brings to mind the hazy air of your neighborhood local. Visual diversions come courtesy of tankards, chess boards and street signs, while a regular rotation of international guest beers keep the crowd clinking glasses way into the night.QOpen 14:00 - 05:00. PJAEX Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. 061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Drink Poznań's best beer alongside business travelers talking contracts and native high-fliers courting the attentions of the local sex sirens. Out in the back a large room crammed with copper vats and dials produces the three house beers, while in the front find a modern design that combines steel and glass in tasteful style. Never a quiet night, and definitely a nominee for bar of the year. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00. PJABXW Browar Pub C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shop- ping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. A huge drinking complex featuring copper brewing vats, plenty of booze food and the atmosphere of a ribald beer hall. Cut out queues and middlemen by booking a table with a private beer tap.QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Sieroca 10, tel. 061 852 33 99, w w w.buddhabar-poznan.pl. A nightclub inside an Indian restaurant? You've ever y right to be suspicious. What works as a restaurant (and an ou tstanding one at that), simpl y doesn't float our boat as a club. I t looks great, bu t i t appears the pin-up par ty people have dri f ted away since this venue first opened i ts d o ors. B y all m eans com e for fo o d, go elsewh ere for the par ty. The music, incidentall y, is nothing like you'd expect from a venue making use of the Buddha name - no loun ge or trance tracks h ere, just char t noise interspersed wi th the occasional bhangra beat. Q Open 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAUX poznan.inyourpocket.com Cactus Factoria D-2, ul. Ślusarska 5, tel. 0 510 11 18 02, www.cactusfactoria.com.pl. A multi-level restaurant, bar, club mutant with black/red colours, latin music and some mysterious spongey fabric on the walls outback. Strangely, in spite of being in possession of enough booze to sink the Titanic, they couldn't fix a margarita; fortunately with staff this stunning it's a fault that gets quickly overlooked. The upstairs section houses the club, and it's been known to get pretty lively come the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PABXW Café Plotka D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 19 33, www.plotka.poznan.pl. Framed pictures of ducks sit alongside china plates and other associated frilly extras. We're undecided whether this is a bar or a café - the cakes standing on the corner suggest the former, the giggling gangs of middle-aged girls on the razzle suggest the latter. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. JA NEW Celtic C-2, ul. Murna 3, tel. 0 505 613 719, www. celticirishpub.com. First things first, they serve Guinness, but not in the manner to which you'll be accustomed. The black stuff here comes tipped from tins before getting zapped into shape under some sort of space age laser. Granted, it's a process that cuts out human error, but it's not exactly a method that would win approval back in Eire. Nor would the lack of Sky Sports or heart tickling fry-ups. Everything feels a little false and forced here, and no amount of Celtic posters and Irish flags can disguise that. Nonetheless the bar girl is ace, the drinks cheap and the juke box packed with sing along hits - this could yet emerge as a decent addition to the local nightlife. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PAW ul. Murna 3, 61-771 Poznań tel. 505 613 719 www.celticirishpub.com [email protected] Open: Mon-Sat 6 pm - 3 am Sun 6 pm - 11.30 pm Corner Pub A-2, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. 061 633 23 32, www.corner-pub.pl. It's on a corner, down a basement and full of students. You need know nothing more about this venue, other than it's immensely popular with people willing to sacrifice design extras for near giveaway beer.QOpen 08:00 - 05:00. PEB Coxy's D-2, ul. Woźna 11, tel. 061 221 97 74, www. klubcoxys.pl. There might be hope for Coxy's yet. When this place opened it was hyped as an alternative to Dom Vikingow's Sports Bar. The competition has closed (inexplicably), making Coxy's by default the one expat friendly sports pub in town. Lined with framed football shirts and assorted football detritus this venue comes into its element whenever there's a big match on, and gets a decent weekend following of stag nights and students.QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PAEW Czerwony Fortepian D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18 (entrance from ul. Mokra), tel. 061 852 01 74, www.czerwonyfortepian.pl. An upscale restaurant and bar that markets itself as the classiest jazz joint in town - which might account for the snidey, snooty, what-the-hell-do-you-want attitude of your waiter. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a private club, and the interiors are all the better since a recent renovation saw all the previous furnishings auctioned off to a Paris brothel. Now it's a super cool vanilla design with scrubbed bricks and a back-lit bar, with the only surviving remnant from times gone being the 100 year old piano. QOpen 17:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAEXW Déja Vu Café D-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. 0 502 03 38 87. A trip to Deja Vu is essential for anyone wishing to masquerade as a student. This place is full of them, and little more than a series of plainly decorated rooms that simmer with noise at all hours. Boozy and basic with a hangover guaranteed. QOpen 09:30 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. JW poznan.inyourpocket.com Night at a glance Lads Brogan’s Irish Pub serves a cracking range of beers, though if you’re looking for Sky Sports then you’ll find yourself heading to the more upmarket confines of Someplace Else in the Sheraton. Brovaria has excellent lagers brewed on-site, though loud and lairy antics are neither appreciated nor tolerated. Why not head to Rooster instead (see Where to Eat), where beer comes courtesy of girls in itsy hotpants. Splurge The best cocktails in Poznan are found in the Blow Up, which is conveniently situated close to the most exclusive danceteria in town – SQ. Look the part if you want to be accepted into either. To mix with expats and local corporate types then take your portfolio to either Dom Vikingow or Brovaria, or mix with a local 20s new money set in Buddha or Habana. Couples Another vote for Blow Up Hall, the best destination for seduction cocktails. For smooth sounds and sexy design then look into Czerwony Fortepian, an upmarket jazz bar, or check out the bar and back gardens of Zydowska. For wine then take a taxi out to Mielzynski Wine Bar, a fantastic post-industrialist space run by a true enthusiast. Local Glimpse the past by drinking in the commie themed confines of PRL and Proletaryat, or drink with local art types in the bars like Pod Minoga and W Starym Kinie. More central though, Dragon draws a late-to-bed crowd of slacker drunks, while Za Kulisami is a spit and sawdust venue popular with both students and dropouts. July - October 2009 55 56 NIGHTLIFE Hindenburg As Poland’s fifth largest city, and one of its oldest, it’s sensible to assume a few famous faces have been born h ere. In d e e d a qui ck glance through history reveals an almost pantomime lineup of goodies and baddies. And as far as famous faces go they don’t get more distinctive than the lumbering walrus fram e of Paul von Hindenburg, field marshal extraordinaire and one of th e most recognizable statesmen of the 20th century. His life started here, on Podgorna 6 to be precise, where he was born in 1847 in what was then known as the Prussian city of Posen. Raised by a family of vague aristocratic bearing, and a mother of distinctly less noble blood, he spent his youth on Podgorna, and his house still stands to this day. In fact, it’s actually possible to pop in for a beer, though to do so would mean stepping foot inside a ghastly bimbo bar called Fashion Cafe. In all likelihood Hindenburg would have slipped into obscurity had it not been for WWI. Recalled to military service at the grand age of 66 the hitherto unknown military man masterminded Germany’s victory at Tannenburg in 1914, a battle which left the defeated Russian army crippled. The result catapulted the whiskered Hindenburg to fame, and further victories, acclaim and promotions followed, culminating in his 1916 appointment as Chief of General Staff. A personality cult took root, and it wasn’t rare to find donations to the war effort nailed onto the wooden statues of him which had mushroomed across Germany. In fact, to all intents and purposes, Hindenburg had become more important than the Kaiser, certainly more popular. He withdrew gently from the public view in the wake of the armistice, but returned with a bang when he was elected President of Germany in 1925. In spite of the perilous social state of Germany Hindenburg’s time at the helm is remembered fondly, and as the 1920s rolled to a close he did what he could to limit the growing influence of Hitler’s Nazis. ‘Gentlemen, I hope you will not hold me capable of appointing this Austrian corporal to be Reich Chancellor’, he is noted as telling his inner circle. However he was forced to do just that in 1933, and by this time the now senile Hindenburg had lost much of his standing. Nonetheless, the ailing Hindenburg still vetoed Hitler’s proposed bill which called for the immediate sacking of all Jews employed in the civil service. Although Hitler was keen to present a public show of respect for Hindenburg, he privately resented him and could often be overheard cursing the ‘old reactionary’ and wishing for his death. Hitler’s hopes were heard, and the following year Hindenburg succumbed to lung cancer, giving Hitler a free reign on Germany. He was buried a national hero at Tannenberg (now called Stebark in Poland), though with WWII reaching its close his remains were spirited away by the retreating Germans to Marburg an der Lahn. He rests there to this day. Poznań In Your Pocket NIGHTLIFE Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51 17. E xpect a cacophony of noise the moment the local football side are beamed onto the plasma screen. This is your traditional spor ts pub effor t, with generous b ench ed booths, posters of frothing beer mugs and photographs of footballs finest amphi theatres. Brass lamps and Lech Poznań scar ves hang from newly varnished sur faces, and even the dominance of Warka sponsored furnishings fails to cool the bubbling atmosphere. No Sk y Spor ts, but you can catch English league action on the Canal Plus channel. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAX Dragon C-1, ul. Zamkowa 3, tel. 061 853 08 19, w w w.dragon.krzyk.pl. If you meet any shell-shocked expats wh o look like th ey've just tumbled ou t of b ed a minu te earli er th e ch an c es are you'll s o on fin d th em mumblin g somethin g ab ou t b ein g ‘dra goned'. That's local lexicon for get tin g completel y trousered in one of th e b est bars in Poz. Frequen ted by all-nigh t weirdoes Dra gon is all reject furni ture, steel mesh imb edded in to peelin g plaster walls and th e bracin g smell of spilla ge and smoke. Ar tsy films and visuals come projected on to th e walls while stoned dropou ts form human pyramids on jumble sale sofas. O verlookin g th e b edlam is a dra gons h ead burstin g ou t from above th e bar area. Priceless. Q Open 10:30 - 05:00. JAEBW Eskulap ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Grunwald), tel. 061 665 88 02, www.eskulap.art.pl. A cult venue with something always going on. There's plenty of live acts, concerts and DJs entering the fray here, and while it's not much design wise it gets absolutely chockablock come weekends with the alternate party crowd.QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. AEXW Estadio Spor ts Bar & Restaurant F-3, ul. Miełżyńskigo 16 (enter from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. 061 855 33 21, w w w.estadio.com.pl. A big and shiny sports bar with naked brick walls, black and white finishes and lots of reflective surfaces. It looks pretty good, but a sports bar should be judged on the sports it broadcasts - here it's Polish cable only, with Sky Sports and Setanta an aberrant fantasy. Q Open 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PABXSW Fashion Cafe C-2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. 061 855 75 57, w w w.fashioncafe.com.pl. This is what happens when someone with bad taste and pots of money is gi ven license to open a place. Wi th a flimsy, flashy interior you reall y have to be a cer tain type to drink in this teenie trap. Consider i t Vegas on the cheap. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PAEBW F.B.I Poznan C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 0 506 163 029. FBI to some people, the Finest Bar in Poznan to others. It's big, black and shiny, and while it looks like a kick ass cocktail den you can't help but wonder where all the people are. It's empty, disconcer tingly so, but use that to your advantage and test your chat on the Miss Polska bargirls - after all, they've nothing better to do than enter tain the sleaz y over tures of the foreign stud. Numerous bars and restaurants have tried their luck in this location, all have failed; could this be the one that breaks the duck? Q Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW poznan.inyourpocket.com LISTEN CLASSIC ROCK/POP MUSIC 1959-2009 & DANCE THU - SAT ul. Wielka 9 61-744 Poznan www.johnnyrocker.pl TRY FEEL BEST WHISKEY AT THE BEST PRICE UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE OPEN: Mon – Thu 18:30 – 00:00 Fri – Sat 18:30 – 03:00 Fever G-3, Stary Rynek 82, tel. 061 851 80 22, www. fever-club.com. Pay tribute to the days of Roller Girl and Travolta inside this kitschy seventies throwback. They've gone for an orange look, and topped it off with lots of fur trim, huge lights and those funny plastic seats that must have seemed positively space age when they first rolled off the production line. The retro fad has gone down a storm with the locals, and empty seats are more the exception than the norm. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PAUXSW Fontanna Czekolady C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 9, tel. 061 852 67 23, www.fontannaczekolady.pl. The tunnelshaped Fontanna looks like it never ends. It does, in fact, usually the moment you collide with the full length mirror standing at the end of the bar. There's a distinctly retro aesthetic here with the purple sofas, dimmed lighting and chandeliers harking back to the days of Boogie Nights excess. A good pre-club stop, affirmed by the presence of the night vamps freshly touched up for a night on the prowl.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAUX Fort Colomb A-3, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. 0 601 55 02 35, www.fortcolomb.pl. An old brick fortress-cum pub found in Park Marcinkowskiego. The interior is standard: exposed brick, local radio for music, and it appears popular with lads wearing World Gym t-shirts and practising hard man stares. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. EB In Flagranti D-1, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. 061 853 32 50, www.inflagrantipoznan.pl. A voluptuous venue where everything comes bathed in rich crimson shades and the dim flicker of tea candles. Smokers get shunted up the stairs on the top floor, in a large room decked out with dark woods, brass pots and assorted shrubbery, while a great selection of chillout tunes help complete the effortless transition of day into night. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. PAUBX Johnny Rocker D-2, ul. Wielka 9, tel. 061 853 62 32, www.johnnyrocker.pl. Step into Johnny Rocker and you'd be forgiven for thinking you've inadvertently entered a warehouse, what with all the barrels, pipes, tubes and dials. Worry not, take the metal stairs and follow the noise coming from the basement and you'll locate Poznan's best worst kept secret. Decked out in neo-industrial fashion this labyrinthine cellar comes with bits of metal hanging from the walls, a crow standing behind the bar and posters advertising avant-garde drum workshops. Add to this a staunch commitment to rock music and whisky paraphernalia and it's almost possible to imagine that fella from Guns'n'Roses walking in with his top hat and snake. Our favourite detail: the blokes toilet, where pictures of women holding tape measures stare directly at nervous lads using the urinal. QOpen 18:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAEX poznan.inyourpocket.com Kamea D-1, ul. Wroniewska 22, tel. 061 851 72 11. A genuine labour of love, this gallery-cum-bar is filled with jazzy sounds, vases of flowers and wooden cupboards. Sink into one of the leather armchairs and admire the artwork hanging from the walls, or choose from one of the largest cocktail lists in the city. Often empty, but never disappointing.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAEBX Kisielice B-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. 061 665 84 84, www. kisielice.com. A one in a million haven of individuality, the K Hole is possibly Poznań's best known bar, and certainly its best. The crowd comprises of a cross section of social dropouts, to a man waiting on a book deal, record contract or exam results, while the music policy is completely bonkers; anything obscure will get airtime here. The Warholesque interior is the perfect backdrop for the permissive behaviour that is expected at nightfall, with staff matching customers shot for shot into the daft, murky hours. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. EW Krzysztof Komeda (1931-1969) Born in Poznań, 1931, Krzysztof Komeda stands out as one of Poland’s finest music talents, and remains, even in death, a source of inspiration. He studied piano from an early age, and was inducted into Poznań’s conservatory in 1939. Though the war disrupted his studies it is also credited with landing him his name. Born Krzysztof Trzciński he found himself nicknamed Komeda after scrawling the word on a wall – he had meant to write ‘komenda’ (as in command post) – while playing with his mates. The local partisans had a good laugh over it and from there the name stuck. With the war over he resumed his musical aspirations and started playing in the subterranean jazz dens of Kraków. He juggled his burgeoning musical career with a job at a health clinic, and it was here his pseudonym took root; keen to hide his nocturnal life from his employees he started performing under the name Krzysztof Komeda. His band scored success at the 1956 Sopot Music Festival, and he re-christened his charges the Krzysztof Komeda quartet. They became the first Polish band to play modern jazz, and his spoken poetry won fans far and wide. He started collaborating with film directors and wrote scores for Roman Polanski’s classics Knife in the Water and Rosemary’s Baby among numerous others. Like all the greats his death is shrouded in mystery; some claim a car accident in LA, others a mountain fall, while Roman Polaśki claims it was during a drunken grappling bout with writer Marek Hłasko. The truth will never be known. Credited with influencing a whole generation he stands out as one of the immortals of Polish music, and his memory is honoured by the annual Komeda Jazz Festival in Słupsk. July - October 2009 57 58 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE Klepsydra D-2, ul. Paderewskiego 11, tel. 061 Lost Poznań An exploration of the back streets of Poznań reveals countless corners hitherto left untouched by the guidebooks, and this is never more evident than standing at the foot of (C-1) Góra Przemysła. While at first glance the hillock looming in front of you appears to be little more than a steep path and a scattering of ruins it is of course much more than that. This was formerly the site of a royal castle, with original construction dated to approximately 1274. It was built on the whim of Przemsył II and served as a royal residence for the next couple of centuries. By the time Kazimierz Wielki had finished expanding it the castle stood out as the biggest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland, though its fortunes took a dramatic turn for the worse when marauding Russians destroyed much of it in 1704. From there on it ceased to operate as a royal residence, used instead to house an archive and a court. A special chamber was kept aside to display the rotting corpses of executed villains, and one courtier, Józef Rufus Wybicki, would go on to achieve fame by penning the Polish national anthem in 1791. The 18th century marked a patchy time for the castle; it enjoyed spurts of restoration and renovation, interespersed with neglect, eventually falling into complete disrepair until 1783 when Kazimierz Raczyński opted to construct a classicist building on the site to function as his HQ. Alas, just ten years later the Prussians had other designs, and flattened Raczyński’s palace to make way for a rather boring one storey building. The area was smashed to pieces during the Soviet siege and in 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum. Today the only original elements to survive are the ancient cellars, though plans are now afoot to rebuild the castle using a blend of Gothic, renaissance and contemporary styles. And what of the hill itself? Apparently that’s the work of the devils. According to local legend a group of demons were irritated by the number of churches springing up in the Poznań region and so hatched a plot to flood the area by dumping the Nia hill – found in the neighbouring forests – into the river Warta. The nasty buggers stood in a circle and used their collective energies to lift it, before flying off in the direction of the river. Fortunately the shriek of a rooster startled them mid-flight, and they dropped the hill onto what is now Poznań, hence scuppering their dastardly plan. 852 15 39. A second-floor bar with a cut-price menu and ghastly decorations that sit alongside a traditional wood-car ved bar and ceiling paintings of old Poznań. A preponderance of plantlife hinders the views of old town, forcing patrons to focus on the frequent bouts of karaoke. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PJEBX Klub Galeria Shisha A-3, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. 0 500 37 23 72, www.shisha.net.pl. On the Taczaka pub crawl route, so find plenty of students zig-zagging around this Egyptian-themed haunt. Wall-paintings of falcon-winged gods and pharaohs keep an eye on the fun, with a series of hookah pipes to cloud the evening. Take to the cream leather armchairs to make the most of the spaced out atmosphere. A great detour to the one dimensional spit and sawdust atmosphere of the nearby beer halls. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PW Klub Zak D-1, ul. Szyperska 2, tel. 061 855 34 83, www.klubzak.pl. Book readings, film screenings, ar t exhibitions, sports screenings and ribald revelry make Zak somewhat of a winner on Poznań's student circuit. Bricks, benches and wood are the interior ingredients, and the live music includes jazz, blues and folk tunes, all lapped up by a crowds of drinkers lost in the fog of smoke. Traditional pubs sports like table football and darts encourage displays of one-upmanship. QOpen 18:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 06:00. PAEX Kultowa C-3, ul. Wrocławska 16, tel. 061 853 43 27, www.kultowa.pl. An urbane pre-club bar aimed at a twenty something audience. The interior is black and modern, and finding seats can pose a challenge come the weekend. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PAEW NEW La Rambla Tapas Bar i Wino D-2, ul. Wodna 5/6, tel. 0 618 52 37 21, www.larambla.pl. You'll love La Rambla, a scarlet venue whose principle pull is a top selection of wines and a range of tapas snacks to go with them. Better still, with summer in swing then sit streetside next to heavy wood shutters and flower pots. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00. AB Lizard King C-1, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72, w w w.lizardking.pl. I t's not unlikel y you'll h ear the li ve bands from the other side of the R ynek - this is rock star heaven, where the cock tails have names like D ylan an d Co cker, an d th e toil et is a c cess e d by steppin g throu gh a cello. Vinyl discs and brass instruments adorn the wall space, while lighting rigs hang from the ceilings, read y to beam onto the cover acts who play most evenings. Q Open 11:00 - 03:00. PAEBXW Lobby Bar G-4, Pl. Ander sa 3 (Ander sia Hotel), JvM Poznań In Your Pocket tel. 061 667 80 00, w w w.andersiahotel.pl. Reli ve th e glor y days of Hasselh off insid e Hotel An d ersia's gli t z y groun d floor drinker y. Take to on e of th e swi vell y chairs tha t surroun d th e bla ck marbl e bar, or else repair to th e whi te pou fs lurkin g in th e corn ers. Fill e d wi th mirrore d strips an d n eon dash es this bar wor ks surpri sin gl y well, fe elin g c osm op oli tan a s oppose d to ou tda te d. Clubby tun es get pipe d from in visibl e sp eakers, whil e a suprem el y p ers onabl e bar ten d er fi xes c o ck tail s wi t h all t h e skill of an al ch emist. Q Open 13:00 - 02:30, Sa t, Sun 17:00 00:30. PAUW poznan.inyourpocket.com Londoner Pub C-1, Stary Rynek 90. Your lingering impression might well be the toilet; broken on our visit, and home to an unforgettable sight we would have rather avoided. You learn to expect the unexpected in Londoner, this is after all a bar where a small hatchway opens into a tourist information point, and decorations include an endless list of useless junk; the further you penetrate the more surreal your journey becomes, with gramophones, a model goat and other curios taking up all viable space.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. J Malibu Bar C-2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. 061 852 45 86, www.malibubar.pl. Shock white colour schemes have punters reaching for their shades, and this place is definitely aimed at the ‘sunglasses at night' crowd. It takes about ten people to fill the dance floor, so don't be surprised to find the local Playboy bunnies dancing around the tables - sometimes on them. A couple of back rooms come stuffed with bright orange ottomans, though the overriding impression is one of stark minimalism. But the really good news here are the cocktails; the AK47 (comprised of vodka, rum, gin, whisky, tequila and triple sec) could kill a rhino. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAEW Warm sounds, soulful, funky, latino Fridays and Saturdays NEW Mielzynski Wine Bar ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. 061 866 00 57, www.mielzynski.pl. Set in a scrubbed up industrial brick building Mielżynski is the wine bar that Poznan has been crying out for. It's not central, but it is worth the ride, as a lengthy lurk among the crates soon proves. Educated service, hard-to-find labels, a dash of neo factory chic and a winning menu make this a true destination of distinction. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAX Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www. moodclub.pl. Poznań's principal shopping street doesn't have much in the way of boozing options, so it's no surprise to find Mood with a monopoly on the good times and late nights. Set down a courtyard this place gets plenty of custom during daylight, but it's come pumpkin hour that things kick off in earnest - swing by at the weekend when DJs enter the frame to pep up the crowd.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBW Muchos Patatos D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 851 91 73, www.muchos.pl. Adobe coloured walls come decorated with tile-shard mosaics and as evenings progress a lively student crowd squeeze in to party like there's no manana to a background of salsa and Latin rhythms, strong shots of tequila encouraging never-before-attempted dance moves. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PA Piano Bar C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.pianobar. poznan.pl. The per fect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEBXW www.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com Made in Poland - Maluch Like the Czech Skoda and the East German Trabant the Polish ‘Maluch’ has served several purposes during its lifetime; a Godsend for families behind the iron curtain, source of merriment for smirking foreigners and now, as a cult icon for commie nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering. Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in factories in Bielsko-Biała and Tychy the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license, with its official title being the Polish Fiat 126p. Its diminutive size saw it awarded the common moniker of Maluch (little one), a name that was so widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened the brand in 1997. When the first one rolled off the production belt in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000 (approximately three times the average annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Poland. Throughout communist times the car could only be purchased through joining a waiting list, which at times ran to a couple of years, though diligent workers would often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to jump the queue. By the time production came to a halt in 2000 over 3.2 million had seen action on the roads of Poland. The conveyor belts may have ground to a halt but the car still boasts a remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find many zipping and weaving between traffic, usually driven by fearless pizza delivery boys showing an alarming commitment to delivering their goods in record time. July - October 2009 59 60 NIGHTLIFE Malta In the words of esteemed local journalist and history buff, Brian Dixon, ‘while both the Nazis and Stalin did their damnedest to outdo each in terms of winning favour with the denizens of Hell, they also excavated a series of lakes around the city to prevent the River Warta from flooding.’ Of the lot it’s Lake Malta that is best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of the damning of the Cybina river the 2.2 kilometre long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Built on the sweat of forced labour the lake is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region with an ice-rink, all-year ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), zoo and rowing a few of the opportunities on offer. Each Summer the Malta Festival (Poznań’s answer to Scotland’s Edinburgh Festival) culminates on the banks of the lake, usually in a shower of fireworks and music. The name of the lake derives from the Knights of Malta, and it was their order who once owned the land on which the lake now sits. However it is modern history that is most apparent when visiting Malta. Take a look, for instance, at the Mound of Freedom on the south of the lake, just off ul. Baraniaka. Work on this man made hillock started on May 3, 1919, with workers from across Poland volunteering to take part in its construction. It was built to celebrate the success of the Wielkopolska Uprising and took three years to complete. When Poznań was once more incorporated into the Reich the Nazis couldn’t wait to deconstruct this symbol of Polish victory and it was promptly levelled. In 1982 plans were touted to rebuild it from scratch, and construction swung into action four years later. Amazingly, it’s still not finished. When it is finally completed (don’t hold your breath) the 30 metre peak will be 17 metres taller than the original, and will also hold an observation point. While the lake – host to many international rowing competitions – is the focal point, the surroundings aren’t short on distractions. Throughout summer the car park near the ski slope is home to an open air cinema, with films screened for free from 10pm. Cheapskates take note, admission is free. It’s also got Poznań’s only mini-golf course, as well as a summer toboggan run. Hold on for dear life as speeds hit 50km per hour on the 530 metre run. It’s open from the start of the April to the end of October from 12:00 – 21:00. Note that this is subject to weather and you should check first with the reception (061 878 22 12). You’ll be shelling out 7-9zł for the pleasure, and more details are available from www.maltaski. pl. Finally, there’s the Maltanka narrow gauge railway. Connecting Rondo Sródka with the New Zoo the 3.8km line ferries approximately 200,000 passengers annually on its 600mm tracks. Tickets cost 4.5/3zł. NIGHTLIFE Piwnica 21 (The Cellar 21) D-2, ul. Wielka 21, tel. 061 852 29 26, www.piwnica21.pl. A vast underground bar that is nothing more than your archetypal student beer hall. You'll occasionally hear jazz performances above the din, and Piwnica 21 features all the expected extras: sticky floors, bare bones basic furniture, and some flashing arcade machines. Always a fun night, though don't go making plans for a bright start the following morning. QOpen 17:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. JEW Pod Minogą B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 79 22. Formerly Poznan's premier bar noir, what was once a dog-eared local legend has since been gentrified and refurbished. The dishevelled decor of yesteryear has disappeared, replaced instead by a brick bar, naked girders and floorboards that no longer squeak. To their credit the clientele stubbornly persist in honouring the artistic legacy, with charity shop fashions and roll-up cigarettes glued to their fingers. The music policy is as alternative as ever, but one can't help but think the glory years have passed.QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 09:00, Sun 17:00 - 05:00. AE Post Dali B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. 061 855 21 03, www.postdali.pl. Open till late, very late, Post Dali is the final word in Poznań by night, and frequently the undoing of those who visit; our notes are little more than scribbles, a suggestion that a belting good time was had. There's a few points to set it aside from the competition, the first being it's sky high location - find it occupying a chunk of the tenth and eleventh floors of a Poznań office block, with views that stretch across the city. Typical clubby sounds keep the party going till memory fades, with a committed crowd lapping up the shenanigans.QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. PEXW PRL D-1, ul. Żydowska 11(entrance from ul.Mokra), tel. 061 852 31 62. Poznań now has two bars celebrating the days of communism, and this one is every inch as good as the near legendary Proletaryat - in fact, if anything we prefer this place. Occupying a pair of murky basement rooms PRL features a feast of memorabilia saved from the Peoples Republic, with visionary diversions including hammers and sickles, paintings of Marx and a riot shield to evoke those fun nights spent battling the militia. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. X Proletaryat D-2, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. 061 852 48 58/0 508 17 36 08, www.proletaryat.pl. Who cares that Stalin was umpteen times the villain that Hitler ever was, this commie-themed bar is an essential stop-off for any pub crawler. Socialist paradise this most certainly is, with portraits of Soviet leaders aplenty, and an even a bust of Lenin peering from the window. Drink quality local brews while Russkie marching bands strike up from the speakers, and peruse the manifestos and cold war keepsakes lined up along the walls.QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. PJAXW Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www. sheraton.pl/poznan. Qube is the lobby bar of the Sheraton, and the perfect primer for pre-restaurant cocktails or while counting down the minutes before Someplace Else opens. The staff are top drawer, proved by the creation of the best mojito we've found in town, while the low bar side seats refuse to let you leave until you've tried one too many of their lethal vodkas. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAUXW Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32 24, www.room55.pl. On the ground floor find a decent bar where the business world meet for after work drinks, as well as an overpriced menu presented by scurrying blondes. Head downstairs to see where the crowd moves when it gets to the business end of the night. Find a long cellar bar with wooden barrels to park yourself on, and enough space to impress with your dance trickery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW Sami Swoi C-2, Stary Rynek 99/100, tel. 061 855 21 65, www.samiswoi-klub.com. From the outside Sami Swoi appears to be a traditional restaurant, filled with stripey wallpaper, oil paintings and other prim touches. And while you can eat here this place packs out primarily with a young, noisy crowd looking to drink into the next day. Don't be startled to hear the local karaoke kings doing their party pieces. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PJAW Sarp D-2, Stary Rynek 56, tel. 061 853 24 64, www. sarp-klub.pl. Entering Sarp is like walking into a migraine. Everything here is orange, plastic and flimsy, and the staff don't do much to inspire repeat visits - asking what goes into a White Russian is bad enough, using UVH milk to then make it an error of schoolboy proportions. On the plus side they open late and serve beer, and there's a cycle of exhibitions and concerts to keep things lively.QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AEB Shark C-1, Stary Rynek 48, tel. 061 851 94 80, www. shark.ecom.net.pl. A chic designer space with a sparkling bar that wondrously seems to spread from floor to ceiling. Find sexy bedroom music, stick thin girls and salmon walls inside this smashig split level venue. Beauty police work the door, so dress accordingly. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JAB SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/ poznan. The quintessential expat bar and a lifeline to your parallel life abroad. The layout here is simple, diner décor featuring all the Route 66 extras and rock'n'roll pics. Setting it aside are Sky Sports, Poznań's best burger and a line up of live music acts that lead the party to its inevitably blurry conclusion. Blame your amnesia on the bar staff, some of the best in the business, and while SPE is not a cheap night a trip here is just the medicine if you've had one of those days where you're tempted to book the next ticket out of Poland. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Closed from July 20 - August 20 PAUEXW STUDENTS RULE IN SOMEPLACE ELSE ON THURSDAYS www.someplace-else.pl 50% discount upon showing student license on Thursday Look for this stamp on the SomePlace Else menu The Dubliner A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from Al. Niepodległości), tel. 061 851 01 69, www. dubliner.com.pl. Possibly the largest pub in town, certainly the emptiest. Accommodated inside the basement of the Zamek building The Dubliner features stained glass windows, a model train circling above the bar and wall specially painted to feign years of tobacco smoke. This is a clinical attempt to bring Ireland to Poland, and one that fails to capture the intimacy and buzz of their rival Celt pub, Brogan's.QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAUEB The Fire Place Lounge E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton. pl/poznan. A tiny side room of the Sheraton houses this gem, where curvy seating is complimented by violet dashes, mirrors and dark polished woods. It's completely luxurious, and the presence of a roaring fireplace makes it highly tempting to open a book and forget any looming appointments. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PAUXSW poznan.inyourpocket.com SomePlace Else Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznan, Tel. 061 655 2000 [email protected] Open daily from 5pm, on Sundays from 12:00 (enter through the main door of Sheraton) July - October 2009 61 62 NIGHTLIFE U Honzika B-3, ul. Taczaka 21, tel. 0 504 03 72 19, NIGHTLIFE Cute H-3, ul. Wielka 27/29, tel. 061 851 91 37, www. www.honzik.pl. If you're going to drink in the student ghetto then do so in here. What looks like a seedy basement bar is actually one of the finest places in the world - a cracking Czech pub with smoke stained walls and plenty of football paraphernalia. There's Zlatopramen lager on tap, though real drinkers are going to look in the fridge - filled to bursting with hard-to-find brews hailing from Lithuania and Ukraine. Either stand shoulder to shoulder with the students at the bar, or penetrate the back room to sit on rough-cut wooden stools. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PX cute.poznan.pl. Found inside the guts of an old town cellar Cute plays the best nu-house sounds in Poznań, which to the rank and prole translates as dance tracks that are way too cool to chart. Watch the hourglass figures take to the dance floor while reclining from the safety of the red leather ottomans and sofas. Strange shapes and sounds aplenty, adding to the feeling that the pills are about to hit. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJAE Whisky Bar C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. 55, www.czarnaowca.com.pl. A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ's, and the crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobhole. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAUX 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A subterranean tunnel shaped bar, boasting what is apparently the largest collection of whisky in the country. Found inside the guts of the Dom Vikingów complex Whisky Bar comes replete with polished wooden fittings, and staff who can confidently talk you through the enormous choice of drinks. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PABXW W Starym Kinie (In The Old Cinema) B-1, ul. Nowow- iejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 22 41, www.wstarymkinie.pl. Out front pub poets and film buffs sit within plum coloured walls, eyeing decorations that include film reels, projectors and cinema seats. Any overspill gets lumped in the powder blue back room, where only a few token posters cheer up a rather lonely looking space. Regular screenings of cult classics attract a crowd of budding film critics. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AEW Za Kulisami (Behind the Scenes) D-2, ul. Wodna 24, tel. 061 853 23 97. Embedded in local folklore, Za Kulisami is a drinking institution. The scraps of faded paper behind the bar are travelers notes from the days before Skype - remember them - and the shelves groan under the weight of broken-spined books and Paddington Bear style suitcases. Inside the gloom and plumes of smoke a crowd of all extractions congregate to drink amid cow skins and empty birdcages. This is drinking the way the gods would have wanted. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. J Clubs Bee D-2, ul. Wielka 18, tel. 0 507 06 80 84, www. beeclub.pl. A great looking bar which morphs into a club the moment the calendar flicks to Friday. Honey colours and rounded circular shapes lend a mildly retro tone, and the seats are among the most comfortable in town; enjoy them while you can, it's odds on they'll be scarred with lager stains and cigarette burns by the time the year is out. House, funk and lounge sounds fit into the background, while an over 21 door policy does the job of freezing the riff raff out. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAW Cuba Libre C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. 061 852 31 57, www.cuba-libre.pl. Set down a shadowy courtyard basement the newly expanded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The disco Latino nights on Friday and Saturday prove seriously popular, though if you've got two left feet then consider brushing up on your dance jiggles at one of their salsa and samba classes held earlier in the week. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. PX Poznań In Your Pocket Czarna Owca C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. 0 502 28 77 Czekolada C-2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. 061 851 00 05, www.klubczekolada.pl. Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disser vice, this is the final word in design drinking and the sor t of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you'd be a fool to turn up looking like any thing less than a celebrity. Q Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAX Emforiu D-1, ul. Kramarska 18, tel. 060 179 45 58, www.emforiu.pl. Although it helps to have pneumatic breasts and an expensive wardrobe Poznań's latest headline grabber is open to all; from local big shots to students pooling their coins together for a lager. A glowing dance floor pulsates with rainbow lights while local DJs serve up a feast of house noise to the mass of wriggling bodies. It's a clever set up here, with plenty of red vinyl, stark hospital white colours and revolving disco balls creating a great backdrop for the weekend excess that awaits. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PW IQ C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 851 06 22, www. iqclub.pl. A grubby, tunnel-like cellar club that grabs the attention with a poster outside advertising two zloty beer. Equipped with a reddish glow and a smoky mist this place wakes up each weekend, when some of the biggest names in Poland show up to play electro, trance and oldskool hardcore. Don't bother dressing up, hooded tops are worn like signs of courage.QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. JE Klub Charyzma D-2, ul. Ślusarska 6, tel. 061 851 79 48, www.charyzma.poznan.pl. It's all a bit Planet of the Apes in Charyzma, a big, brash venue where local lads head to see whose nuts dangle lowest as they bid to impress the local talent. The design is concrete and steel - with the occasional mannequin sticking out of an air vent - and the music is limited to commercial dance tracks. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Wed 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEW www.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com Metropolitan Club B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. 061 851 51 51, www.metropolitanclub.pl. Give your latest dance waggles their debut in Metropolitan, a dazzling club space with lots of violet vanilla dashes, swooping beams of light and razor clawed platinum pussycats on display. The management have gone for the scattergun approach, with different days bringing in different sounds - check their interweb for details.QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEXW Sansibar D-2, ul. Wodna 12, tel. 0 694 41 30 72, www. sansibar.pl. Another student drinking dungeon in which patrons shout, scream and gesticulate over the din of disco hits of yesteryear. Dark, cramped and noisy the overall effect isn't unlike sitting in a cupboard with the Village People.QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJAE SQ C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. 061 859 65 78, www. sqklub.pl. Poznan's most famous club, and packed with enough pin-up girls to have your head spinning like a periscope. An expensive wardrobe and silly haircut are essential, and while the design is nothing special the nights here most certainly are. DJs arrive from across Poland to play here, sometimes even further, and it's certainly the premier place in town to puff the chest out and strut about like a big time Bertie. Find it in the basement of the Stary Browar shopping centre.QOpen 22:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAE Tapas D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www. tapas.pl. A design masterstroke, the hi-tech interior is quite unlike anything Poznań has seen before. Full of glass flooring, shimmery baubles and mosaic surfaces the Tapas Club is a futuristic space, and decorated with suggestive scarlet and granite black colours. Also, a roped off VIP section as well as staff capable of creating the right cocktails for the right moment. House music every Friday, and tracks from the 60s, 70s and 80s on Saturday's, though take note they'll be closing for renovation and reopening at some point in September.QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PJA ê~ꢡ ꪦ¡ê¨¥¢ê£¡ê¥§ ¾ Terytorium D-1, ul. Mokra 7, tel. 061 853 02 92, www. klubterytorium.pl. Come weekends the cobbled flooring and vast bar area become the fiefdom of off-duty students, and the toilets the territory of sozzled lads discussing the merits of the girls outside. Tremendously popular, with most custom coming from a young crowd that likes to tank back the booze. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAX Tokyo Underground C-2, ul. Wrocławska 23, tel. 0 601 70 22 40, www.tokyo-underground.pl. To call the design minimal would be an understatement. There's a couple of signs from the Tokyo Underground and that's about it; the rest of this place is London grey with a few exposed pipes and brick walls on show. Fortunately the music is cracking, with great electro sets played to a committed crowd of local hedonists. Sod the design, this looks set to become one of the liveliest nights in the calendar. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEW Wine Red Eric Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. The first western standard restobar in Poznań, and still a firm fixture on any nocturnal radar. The design is sharp and modern, the menu comprehensive and the bar populated by a ties off after work crowd. Dom Vikingów, Red Erik, call it what you will, the fact remains this venue continues to set standards that others struggle to follow. And now, outback, there’s over 10,000 bottles of wine to drink through. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ABW poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 63 64 HISTORY The Wielkopolska Uprising Since the Third Partition of 1795 Poland had effectively ceased to be a country, wiped off the map and carved between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria. Poznań enjoyed brief freedom in 1806, when Napoleon’s conquering troops marched eastwards, liberating much of Poland and placing the city under the independent jurisdiction of the Duchy of Warsaw. But Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia was to prove just years away, resulting in the 1815 Congress of Vienna which saw Poznań once more delivered back into Prussian hands. There it was to remain for over a century. With Europe reeling after years of war, Germany in collapse and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos patriotic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The people of Poznań, overwhelmingly Polish, could sense independence was round the corner, but there remained one crucial sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and while Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish government Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918, the native Poznonian’s had been plotting an uprising. Positions in local government and industry were forcibly seized by Poles and the countdown was on for outright war. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on December 27. Historical accounts of how the Uprising started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting of Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on the steps of the police headquarters that started the initial fighting, though most point to a stirring speech given by the pianist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what was then the Bazar Hotel. While addressing the Polish crowd assembled below a German counter-demonstration passed by – within moments shots had been fired and the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured the train station and post office, while elsewhere in the region other towns rose up in rebellion. Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak the Polish forces followed up with numerous swift successes against a German army shattered from four years of world war. Neighbouring towns like Kórnik, and Mogilno were liberated though several counter attacks suggested a stiffening in German resolve. Fighting continued into the New Year and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the region from a descent into anarchy the government in waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civil and military issues, conscripting all men born between 1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what is today (B-2) pl. Wolnośći, the Polish troops continued to march into increasingly fierce battles with their German counterparts. Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw the beginning of international peace talks, and within two days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting continued for the next few days, but to all intents and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated. Poznań In Your Pocket HISTORY Some highlights of Poznań’s millennium-long journey from Dark Ages settlement to 21st-century city commercial awakening. 10th century In 968 the first Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992 Mieszko I, the first ruler of Poland, is buried in Poznań Cathedral. 12th century Poznań begins to develop. At the end of the century, members of the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’ Church and found the earliest hospital in Poznań. 13th century In 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestows Magdeburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular street system is laid out around a central marketplace and a castle is added to the fortifications. 14th century Poznań goes through its greatest period of expansion and is soon a major centre of European trade. 16th century A golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a fire devastates the Jewish quarter, the Market Place, the Town Hall and the Castle. 17th century Prosperity falls after the devastatingly expensive Swedish Wars of 1655-1657 and a series of fires and floods. Swedes occupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656. 18th century Poznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russian and Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plague largely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 a hurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and the Cathedral. And in 1736, the worst flood in the town’s history wipes out almost a third of the town’s houses. 19th century Napoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806. As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold, the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and form their own cultural and economic organisations. 1978 Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the name John Paul II. 1980 The fledgeling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike. 1981 December 13 - The Prime Minister, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declares martial law. 1983 Pope John Paul II makes his first visit to Poznań. Martial law is lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize. 1985-88 Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustration grows. 1989 Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees to meet 21 demands for improved living and working conditions. Partly free elections are held. When Solidarność sweeps the elections the communist regime collapses. Nonetheless, the parliament elects General Jaruzelski president. August - The first post-communist prime minister, Tadeusz Mazowiecki, forms a coalition government. 1990 January 1 - Price and monetary restrictions are abandoned in an attempt to find a natural economic equilibrium. Inflation leaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. December 9 - Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularly elected president of post-communist Poland. 1995 November 19 - Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewski defeats Lech Wałęsa in presidential elections. 2001 September 23 - Populist parties enjoy unprecedented success in parliamentary elections and Solidarność, a major force in 1989, disappears from the political scene. 2004 Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparking a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortune. 2005 April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul II passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a million Poles. 20th century The Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts in Poznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919, Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and the administrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian rule. From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped out, much of the town’s population is killed or displaced and about half of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On January 23, 1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000 mobilised locals, they drive out the Germans after a month. The Warsaw Pact is created in 1955. 1956 June 28 - 120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread, truth and freedom”, and 76 are killed in street fighting with the army. A political thaw begins that year under Władysław Gomułka. 1970 Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protest poor living standards and rising prices. The police and army intevene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out of government. poznan.inyourpocket.com 1956 Uprising June 2006 marked the 50th anniversary of The Poznań Riots, the first recognized strike and street demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally suppressed this show of people’s strength remains an intense source of pride for the local community, and though it would be another 33 years until the people of Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin the uprising led to a significant liberalization of Soviet policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980 Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the Solidarity movement. The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain degree of optimism among Poles and promised an end to the social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. But these hopes were to prove shortlived and Nikita Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28 strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories – originally in the Stalin brick factory (now the Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory), before spreading to the city’s other major industrial plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building), chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with Bolshevism’, while demanding lower prices, higher wages and a reduction in work quotas. Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the strikers up in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by the authorities. Infuriated by this break in protocol the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing armaments. Armed with 188 assorted small arms and petrol bombs the insurgents marched back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile atmosphere threatening to run out of control the communist authorities reacted in their traditional manner – by over-reacting. Under the command of Stanisław Popławski 10,300 soldiers were deployed to Poznań, as well as 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside world, order was eventually restored on June 30. The clashes left 76 civilians (unofficial estimates claim the number to be vastly higher) and eight soldiers dead, and over 600 strikers injured. Victims included Roman Strzałkowski, a thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of the riots helped spark off an equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest. Although Poland was to suffer another three decades of Communist control the riots had a huge influence in the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several Stalinst hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid to appease the people. Władysław Gomułka was appointed First Secretary and limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of press censorship followed. A new museum commemorating the events of 1956 has been opened in the Zamek on ul. Sw. Marcin (see What to see). It is definitely worth taking a while to visit to really understand the momentous events of the Poznan June. AP poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 65 66 ESSENTIAL POZNAŃ WHAT TO SEE Art fans should head to the National Museum (C-2, al. Marcinkowskiego 9), an excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionistic works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. Also, don’t miss a visit to the Poznań Model (C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2), a huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s picture sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and it’s more than just a great way to get out of the rain. Poznan Old Twon © shaggyshoo Part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next. That said there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance. Your natural start point should be the main square, the glorious Rynek. Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (C-2, Stary Rynek 1), once renowned as the most beautiful building north of the Alps. Today it is home to the Historical Museum of Poznań, as well as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge at noon to the delight of the sightseers gathered below. © Radomil To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case of river blindness. They’re everywhere, no more so than on Ostrów Tumski. The island is dominated by the Cathedral (Ostrów Tumski 17) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, where you can see sections of excavated walls that date back to the founding of Poland. Trek back to the old town though to find Poznań’s most impressive church: that of St Stanislaus (C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1). Created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century it boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists as well as a beautiful pink exterior. Military Weapon Museum Poznań In Your Pocket © Maciej Boruń Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała) H-4, ul. Strzelecka 40, tel. 061 852 32 00, www. bozecialo.poznan.pl. A strange legend attaches to the church, involving the theft and unsavoury use of three three communion wafers. The unfortunate wafers were later found on the common, and King Władysław Jagiełło had the Gothic Church of Corpus Christi erected on the spot. Construction ended in 1470 and renovations were added during the Baroque period. The Gothic elevations and Baroque gable and tower are preserved in their original state. Points of interest include paintings of King Jagiełło and Queen Hedwig from 1685, the high altar designed by Pompeo Ferrari, and the Baroque Chapel of the Virgin Mary. To this day, Corpus Christi processions are remarkably colourful and impressive, with the local houses brightly decorated and women and girls wearing Bamberg costumes. Q Open during mass only. Al. Niepodległości 20, tel. 061 852 31 34, www. poznan.dominikanie.pl. Built in the 13th century, this church was later given a Baroque interior, tower and gables. The stalls feature sculpted mannerist scenes from the legends of Saints Dominic and Hyacinth. The Late Gothic Rosary Chapel dates to the early 16th century and features a stellar vault and neo-Gothic furnishings. In the small courtyard outside the presby tery you’ll find the entrance to the Jesuit Gallery, where you can see the mannerist interiors of the library, cloister and Chapel of St. Hyacinth. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please. Franciscan Church (Kościół Franciszkanów) C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. 061 852 36 37, www. ofmconv.opoka.org.pl/poznan. Erected 1674-1728. Hidden behind the bland exterior is a riot of baroque decoration, with car ved wood, stucco and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls. Lavish decorations aside, visitors flock to the church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mar y, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please. Of course there’s more to the Rynek than just the town hall, and visitors should make time to troll round the other museums that line the perimeter of the square including the Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (D-2, Stary Rynek 84), which honours one of Poland’s best known authors, the Musical Instruments Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47), the Military Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 9), stocked with a collection of weaponry, and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (C-2, Stary Rynek 3) which chronicles the 1918 Uprising which culminated in Poznań switching from German to Polish hands. Other noteworthy museums in the vicinity include the excellent Archaeological Museum on Wodna 27. Exhibits here include Egyptian mummies and obelisks, as well as bits and pieces from prehistoric Poland. Definitely the wackiest museum in town, and compulsory viewing for anyone with aspirations to follow in the footsteps of Indiana Jones. Churches Dominican Church (Kościół Dominikański) A-1, St. Stanisiaus Ethnographic Museum Poznan's thousand-year history as a trading centre has left it with no shortage of churches, museums and oddities. Most are within walking distance of each other around the town centre. Citadel Cementary © Wojciech Zmyślony Poznań was also affected deeply by the war, and a visit to the former Gestapo penal camp (Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum, Al. Polska) is a disturbing daytrip. Hardly more uplifting is the Poznań Army Museum (G-1, Poznań Citadel), which aside from boasting displays of modern military hardware documents the defence of Poznań in 1939. It’s close to here you’ll find Soviet, Polish and Commonwealth Military Cemeteries – Brit visitors should note it’s here that Roger Bushell, leader of ‘The Great Escape’, is buried. Equally saddening are the few remaining traces of Poznań’s former Jewish community. Poznań wasn’t much more fortunate when the war ended, and to hear the story behind its struggle with communism visit the June 1956 Uprising Museum, a moving exhibition set inside a castle formerly used by Kaiser Wilhelm II. poznan.inyourpocket.com Ostrów Tumski This island is where the city originated and ‘where Poland began’ according to Pope John Paul II. Legend has it that three Slav brothers called Lech, Czech and Rus met at this island having not seen each other for years. The city was named to commemorate their reunion, poznać being Polish for ‘to meet’. A castle was built on the island in the 9th century, and by the 10th century it had become a major centre of the Piast state. This is the spot where Poland adopted Catholic baptism and where the first bishopric was established in 968. Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry, the founders of the Polish state, are buried in the cathedral. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside. Cathedral I-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. 061 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl. Poland’s first bishopric was established in Poznań in 968AD, and from 1138-1295 Poznań briefly operated as the home of Poland’s Royal Court. The oldest point of interest is Ostrów Tumski, and though nothing remains of the 9th century fortress that once stood here the cathedral, Poland’s first, is open to visitors. The cathedral has had a tough time, destroyed and remodeled numerous times, though the crypt has survived the vicissitudes of time and contains the bodies of Poland’s first rulers - Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry. A Romanesque cathedral was built on the spot in the 12th century and a Gothic structure went up in 1356-1410; in 1772 it received Late Baroque additions and classicist façade. Burnt down in 1945, it was reconstructed in 1946-1955 in the Gothic style. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, where you can see sections of excavated walls that date back to the founding of Poland. St. Stanislaus’ Chapel features an epitaph by sculptor Marian Konieczny; each November 1 a special mass in the chapel celebrates the souls of the kings and princes buried here. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament houses several outstanding examples of Renaissance sculpture, including the multilevel tomb of the Gorka family. St. Martin’s Chapel houses a painting by Poznań artist Krzysztof Boguszewski of the saint entering Amiens. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please. Parish Church of St. Stanislaus (Kościół Farny Św. Stanisława Biskupa) C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. 061 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.org.pl. One of Poznań's most impressive historic monuments, the Parish Church of St. Stanislaus was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th centur y. It boasts an interior by a veritable who's who of Roman Baroque ar tists. The striking interior is 55 metres long, 35 metres wide and 27 metres high, with huge columns providing dramatic light-and-shade effects. Fine specimens of Baroque ornamentation can be found in the chapels of the Holy Cross, which features a 16th-centur y crucifix, and the Virgin Mar y, which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help. The church hosts organ concer ts played on an instrument dating from 1876 each day (Sunday being the exception) at 12.15 in July and August and on Saturdays only at 12.15 in other months. Q Open 06:00 - 19:30. No visiting during mass. poznan.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 67 68 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół Św. Wojciecha) Bazar Hotel So what of the hotel at the centre of the Wielkopolska Uprising (see p64). Built on the initiative of Karol Marcinkowski, the Bazar (C-2, al. Marcinkowskiego 1 0) w a s c o n s t r u c t e d between 1838 and 1841 to the designs of Ernst S te u d e n e r. Th e m u l ti purpose institution housed a hotel, shopping centre, concert hall and casino and by all accounts became a centre of Polish social, political and cultural life during the years of Prussian rule. It’s Paderewski’s December visit that it’s best known for today, and a plaque on the corner commemorates his fleeting but eventful stay. Throughout the Uprising the Bazar served as official HQ for the rebels and its colourful history prompted Professor A. M Skałkowski to write a book celebrating its centenary. Nazi occupation marked an end to its glory days and it suffered horrendous damage during the 1945 siege. Renovations began immediately after liberation and the building became the property of the Orbis group in 1950 who operated a hotel from there until 1990 when it was returned to its pre-war stockholders. No hotel exists here anymore though the building has since enjoyed a remarkable renaissance with its shopping arcades filled with designer stores. Stary Marych The bronze statue of a man with a bicycle that you may find yourself colliding into is that of Stary Marych, one of Poznań’s best loved exports. Found on the corner of (C-3) ul. Półwiejska and Strzelcka the figure is based on a fictional character who came to symbolize the typical Poznonian. Regarded as one of Poznań’s most famous natives this grumpy but decent man was the creation of Juliusz Kubel and featured heavily in the writers columns, all the time speaking a particular brand of local Poznań dialect. The statue was the work of Robert Sobociński and it hit the headlines in 2005 when one local master thief made off with the old mans left pedal. The missing article was finally replaced in 2006, thereby restoring the statue to its full glory. A. Pagińska Poznań In Your Pocket G-3, ul. Św. Wojciecha 11, tel. 061 852 69 85. This small, uniquely-shaped Gothic building was constructed in the early 15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska, the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and social activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see the nativity scene with its mechanical figures of Polish kings, scholars, artists and other national heroes. Q Open by prior arrangement. St. Francis of Assissi Church (Kościół Św. Franciszka z Asyżu) D-3, ul. Garbary 22, tel. 061 851 26 Museums Applied Ar ts Museum (Muzeum Sz tuk Użytkowych) C-1, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. 061 852 20 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Housed in what was formerly the Royal Castle of Poznań the route consists of three floors, the cellars being dedicated to temporary exhibits. Permanent exhibits include craftwork dating to medieval times, as well as clothing, furniture, glass and clocks, with an emphasis on decorations formerly housed in castles, palaces and other moneybag domains. While most hail from European shores, a few of the displays are as from as far as Japan. Of note are a lion-shaped vessel to wash princely hands that dates from 18th century Saxony, as well as glass decanter produced in 1813 picturing a pre-Bomber Harris Dresden. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Y Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne) 00, www.franciszkanie.net. This church was built in the late 17th century on a spot chosen according to the principles of Baroque town planning. Its two-towered façade, designed by Jan Adam Stier and decorated with figures of saints, was added in the early 18th century. The original furnishings and decorations were destroyed in the war and replaced with replicas. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00. I-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. 061 852 61 95, www. muzeum.poznan.pl. Arts and crafts, paintings, sculptures and antiques. The oldest exhibits date from the 12th century. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6/4zł. St. John of Jerusalem Church (Kościół Św. Jana Jerozolimskiego) J-3, ul. Świetojańska 1, tel. 061 877 D-2, ul. Wodna 27, (Pałac Górków), tel. 061 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Ever wanted to see the Egyptian mummy of a woman called Hat? Then step right in. Poznań's Archaelogy Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliRadomil est settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature-sized dioramas depicting life from the Older Stone Age to the Iron Age. It's here you'll find everything from flints and urns to models of hairy men holding aloft dead rabbits. The other permanent exhibit, Death and Life in Ancient Egypt, features 120 rare pieces - of note are the granite obelisk of Rameses II that stands in the courtyard outside, and the granite statue of the lion-headed god Sachmet. The section on death presents colourful coffins, guides to the afterlife titled ‘Book of what is on the other side' and the mummified remains of Hat, a boy called Padiseb and sacred animals including two cats, a falcon and a crocodile. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 25zł. Audio guides avaliable in English for 12zł per person. Y 17 17. The oldest standing church in Poznań and the city's second-oldest building after the Cathedral. It was built for the Knights of Malta at the turn of the 12th century in the Romanesque style, with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic arrangement. After a fire in 1512 a star-vaulted ceiling was built over the nave and a nave and tower were added to the north side. Age aside, the building's main draw is a rare Late Gothic painted triptych from the early 16th century. Q Open 07:00-08:00, 17:30-19:00. St. Joseph’s Church (Kościół Św. Józefa) G-2, ul. Działowa 25 (St. Wojciech Hill), tel. 061 852 92 93, www.karmelici.info. Opposite St. Adalbert's Church you'll find St. Joseph's, a Carmelite church whose late 17th century design typifies the Wielkopolska Baroque style. It houses the grave of Mikolaj Skrzetuski, who defended the town of Zbaraż against the Tartars and Cossacks in 1649 and inspired the main character in Henryk Sienkiewicz's novel, With Fire and Sword. Q Open 07:15-13:00, 15:00-19:00. St. Mar tin’s Chur ch (Kościół Św. Marcina) C-2/3, ul. Św. Marcin 13, tel. 061 852 32 63, www. marcinpoznan.hg.pl. First mention of a church standing on the site dates from 1252 though i t owes i ts current Radomil Gothic look from the 16th centur y. Although this was Poznań's most damaged church in WWII its interior is still a sight to behold. The wooden Gothic sculpture of the Madonna in the nave dates back to 1510, and the Gothic Silesian altar triptych is from 1498. Don't miss the grotto that stands outside the church, built in 1911 after the vicar Tadeusz Wierbiński was miraculously cured of blindness by the healing waters of Lourdes. The grotto was built in thanks, and features a garden gnome like figure kneeling in front of Jesus. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. No visiting during mass please. poznan.inyourpocket.com Archeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne) Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski (Pracownia Józefa Ignacego Kraszewskiego) D-1, ul. Wroniecka 14, tel. 061 855 12 44. Original manuscripts, over 200 rare first-editions and assorted writing equipment that once belonged to the author of Stara Baśń (Old Legend), a fanciful account of Polish prehistory. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Envir onment Museum (Muzeum Wiedzy o Środowisku) E-3, ul. Bukowska 19, tel. 061 847 56 01, www.zbsril.poznan.pl. Displays of stuffed and mounted Polish animals with accounts of their living habits, and information on indigenous plants. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission free. poznan.inyourpocket.com Jewish Poznan The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days of the city though like so many other towns in Central and Eastern Europe this heritage was all but extinguished with the horrors that came with Hitler’s rise. The Nazi’s were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage and today traces of it are few and far between. The early 19th century cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyed by the Nazis, the tombstones used to pave roads, and the area found itself incorporated into the Trade Fair grounds after the war. A special dispensation was granted to exhume hundreds of bodies, and today you’ll find them buried in the municipal cemetery in Miłostowo. However in recent times steps have been taken to commemorate the existence of the former graveyard, and in November of last year a memorial plaque was unveiled on ul. Głogowska 26a. Most recently, on June 3, 2008, a ceremony took place to unveil an ohel marking the hitherto unmarked grave of Rabbi Akiva Eiger, commonly accepted as being Poznań’s greatest ever Rabbi. Previously used as a parking lot, the site of his grave has now been turned into a grassy square, and has also been renamed to honour his memory. The fate of the Jews who perished in the stadium labour camp is commemorated by a memorial which stands by the Multikino, and Poznań’s only functioning prayer house can be visited on ul. Stawna 10 (D-1). The Synagogue Amazingly, what was once the principal synagogue in town can still be visited, albeit in a rather different capacity than originally intended. Consecrated on September 5, 1907 the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka (D-1) was a lavish structure designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million). Holding 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women) it was financed by the Jewish superrich and included a copper-plated dome and a floor plan based on the Greek cross. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. Although returned to the Jewish community in 2002 it still functions as a municipal pool – leading some wags to re-christen it the ‘swimagogue’. Of late plans have been mooted to convert it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, a kosher restaurant and conference facilities. Delaying the development is the problem of raising US$50 million, so for the time being at least, bring your swimming togs if you fancy a look round. July - October 2009 69 70 WHAT TO SEE The Great Escape Found some 150km southwest of Poznań, the town of Zagan was the site of one of the most celebrated prison breakouts of all time. Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywood blockbuster, The Great Escape, the daring break from the Nazi prisoner-of-war camp Stalag Luft III has since been ingrained into English and Commonwealth culture. Opened in 1942 outside the German town of Sagan (now Polish Zagan), the camp was designed to hold thousands of captured allied airmen, including the most persistent escapees inside the Reich’s network of prisons. Undeterred by tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, led by Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel out of the complex before setting off independently for neutral territory. Even though the chances of success were slim, Bushell hoped that the very notion of 250 allied airmen loose inside the Third Reich would be enough to create an internal security headache, hence diverting important Nazi military resources. Displaying a meticulous attention to detail, Bushell and his cabal ensured escapees were provided with civilian clothes, forged papers, currency and maps. Around 200 tonnes of sand and earth were excavated, then carefully deposited in the exercise yards by POWs with long bags hidden inside their trouser legs, or inside the two other storage tunnels. The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, but unexpected air-raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76 men to make it through before camp guards uncovered the escape. Those who did make it through set off on foot or by rail, though poor directions and pitch darkness meant many escapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the station until daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. In total only two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it to safety. Of the rest of the escapees, 50 were executed, 17 were returned to Sagan, four were sent to Sachenhausen and two were delivered to Colditz. In Poznań Following cremation, the ashes of the executed men were buried in the local cemetery - these were later moved to the Old Garrison Cemetery in Poznan. To visit the graves enter the cemetery at al. Niepodległości (G-2); turn right and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. A particular name to look for is that of Roger Bushell, played by Richard Attenborough, the driving force behind the escape. Prisoner of War Camps Museum (Muzeum Obozów Jenieckich) ul. Lotników Alianckich 6(Za- gan), tel. 068 478 49 94, www.muzeum.zagan.pl. For many years there was nothing to see in Zagan. Now thanks to the work of diehard historians and RAF personnel, hut 104, the barracks from where the escape was hatched, has been recreated. It forms part of the Museum to Prisoners of War, and we’ll have a full review next issue. In the meantime you can make the trip in a (long) day from Poznan, leaving by bus to Zielona Gora at 06:35 and then taking the train from Zielona Gora to Zagan at 09:45 which gets you there at 11:15. From Zagan bus station it is one stop (Gozdnica) to the camp. A return journey, also taking 5 hours means leaving Zagan at either 15:55 or 18:00. Check www.pkp.pl for more info. Check out www.willapark. pl if you are looking for somewhere close to spend the night. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/1zł, Guided tours for up to 20 people 30zł. Guided tours in English should be booked in advance. Poznań In Your Pocket WHAT TO SEE Historical Museum of Poznań (Muzeum Historii Miasta Poznania) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 852 56 13, www.mnp.art.pl. The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars - originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city's urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artifacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the town hall. A few posters from the Nazi era are on display, as well as a scattering of pictures showing Poznań in ruins after Soviet liberation, and the rebuilding efforts that followed. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Y June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Poznańskiego - Czerwiec 1956) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 82/80, tel. 061 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. The 1956 anti-communist demonstrations that took place in Poznań finally find themselves honoured with a permanent exhibit inside the Zamek. Making use of multi-media displays visitors are sucked back through time as they wonder around a series of dioramas that include a replica of a typical 50s flat, military vehicles and various keepsakes recovered from the era. Numerous photos have been collated, including the pictures of those killed, and a big part of the exhibition is taken up by a fabulous collection of socialist realist art from those times. Point of pride however is reserved for the shirt of Roman Strzałkowski, a 13 year old boy shot dead by militia forces during the rebellion. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. Y Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (Muzeum Literackie Henryka Sienkiewicza) D-2, Stary Rynek 84, tel. 061 852 24 96. Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905, Sienkiewicz is best known as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. The museum is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that's his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Igancy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after paying the ransom to free Sienkiewicz's only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the authors John Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences and a collection of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulent rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and period furniture, his writing desk and pictures of our hero posing with his series of wives. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 3/2zł, Fri free. Y www.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com Military Weapon Museum (Muzeum Broni Pancernej) E-1, ul. Wojska Polskiego 86, tel. 061 857 51 66, www.cswl.mil.pl. Established in 1963 this is one of the biggest museums of its kind in the country, with a collection that numbers heavy machine guns, tanks, armored personnel carriers, amphibious landing craft and other scary testaments to military might. Most of the exhibits are of Soviet origin and saw active service in WWII. Open only by prior appointment only, so be warned. Motoring Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji) E-3, Rondo Kaponiera, tel. 061 847 63 59, www.aw.poznan. pl. A supreme example of how not to run a museum. The old battleaxe sitting at the kasa ignored us, staring defiantly at paperwork in spite of our plaintive rattling on the window and a growing queue behind us. We gave up waiting, so we've no idea if any exhibitions may have changed since our last visit. Expect cars, of what sort we'll leave you to find out. Found in the subway beneath Rondo Kaponiera.QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 4/3.50zł. Y Musical Instruments Museum (Muzeum Instrumentów Muzycznych) D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47, tel. 061 852 08 57, www.mnp.art.pl. The only Polish museum of professional and folk instruments, with over 2000 items from Poland and around the world. The ground and first floors are given over to harmoniums and brass and wooden wind instruments. The stringed instruments include a selection of lutes dating back to the 15th century. A collection of 160 pianos illustrates the development of the instrument from 1750 to the early 20th century. A separate room holds the relics of Frederic Chopin such as documents and personal effects. The second floor rooms contain Polish and European folk instruments as well as fascinating instruments from all other continents. Rounding off the exhibit is a collection of mechanical instruments: music boxes, barrel organs, juke boxes, player pianos and gramophones. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Y National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www. mnp.art.pl. An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionistic works) in the new wing, and medieval ar t, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, Sat free. Y Pharmaceutical Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. 061 851 66 15. One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to find - go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales and cast iron mortars from the 19th century, and vials dating from as far back as the 17th century. Unless you speak German or Polish you'll find yourself wandering around in ignorance, though the thick smell of medicine and scattering of pots for mixing potions is liable to bring out the Harry Potter in you. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine - while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an inmates uniform recovered from Mathausen. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Admission free. poznan.inyourpocket.com Monuments There are aspects of Poznań that are impossible to miss; the spires of her baroque churches burst spectacularly into the sky, while her network of old town streets are recognized as among the most captivating in Poland. Lesser known are her many monuments, a number of them concealed in parks or craftily hidden from the tourist’s eye. Wackiest of the lot is the installation north of the old town. Head up to Poznań’s Citadel Park to get utterly freaked out over the sight of 112 two metre tall cast iron figures seemingly making their way zombie-like across the grass. Odd enough you might think, but not half as alarming as when you notice none of them have heads. Titled ‘Nierozpoznani’ (Unrecognized) the batty installation is the work of local arts graduate Magdalena Abakanowicz and was unveiled to coincide with Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002. We’re unclear what their relevance to Poznań is, or for that matter birthdays, and no-one else seems have the answer either. Explanations have ranged from the intelligent to the downright stupid; some pompous pillocks point out the statues reflect the empty emotions of modern living, other critics claim their purpose is to make individuals confront their inner selves. Abakanowicz herself remains tight lipped over her work, a sure sign she doesn’t have a clue either and just came across the idea over a flagon of cider. Find out more about the artist on www.abakanowicz.art.pl. Next up is the monument that commemorates the thousands of Polish officers massacred in 1940 by the Red Army at Katyń, as well as the thousands of Poles who were packed in cattle wagons and exiled to Siberia during Stalin’s post-war efforts to rid the nation of its intelligentsia and anti-government elements. Known as the Pomnik Ofiar Katynia i Sybiru you can find the 6.5 metre tall bronze boulder on the crossroads between ul. Fredry and Al. Niepodległości in the castle garden. Designed by Robert Sobociński the monument was unveiled on September 17, 1999 – the 60 th anniversary of the Soviet invasion of Poland. Not far away is the monument to Polish patriot and literary hero Adam Mickiewicz. Find his bronze likeness on Pl. Mickiewicza (F-3). The work of Bazyli Wójtowicz it dates from 1960, and celebrates one of the nation’s finest writers. Together with Krasiński and Słowacki he is considered one of the ‘three bards of Poland’, and a figure of romance, patriotism and hope during the bleak time of 19th century Tsarist oppression. But the dominant monument on this square is that of the 1956 Uprising. Made of steel the two crosses (21 and 19 metres respectively) were unveiled on June 28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of the Uprising – more of which you can read about in our History section. Head to Wieniawski Park (A-1) to view a bronze and steel monument dedicated to the Polish Underground State and Home Army. Unveiled on September 26, 2007 (the 68th anniversary of the founding of the Polish underground movement), the memorial is symbolic of the houses that were destroyed during WWII, while the six eagles flying out of it represent Poland’s flight and fight for independence. Next on your monumental safari, don’t miss the Woodrow Wilson monument (E-5), found in the park named after him. The first was unveiled in 1931, but destroyed by the Nazis during the war, and today a replica stands in its place. Why has a Yank been immortalized in this city? Simple. The US president did more than most to ensure Poland’s independence in 1918, and his efforts have not been forgotten. July - October 2009 71 72 WHAT TO SEE Goats The crowd you see outside the Old town Hall just before noon each day is waiting for the goats to appear. At 12:00 precisely, the two tin creatures appear from a door in the façade and butt heads a dozen times. The first goats were installed in 1551 by Bartłomiej of Gubin, and over the years have been restored and replaced. The present goats date from 1954. The legend goes as follows: when the clock was unveiled in 1511, it was to be shown off to the governor of the Poznań province. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison. Panicking, he went out and stole a pair of goats to cook instead. But they escaped to the City Hall tower where the bemused gu ests saw th em butting heads up on a ledge. The governor wa s d e l i g h te d b y the spectacle and whimsically decreed that mechanical goats be added to the clock. The fate of the cook remains a mystery, though the chances are he would have been tied up to the whipping post directly JvM outside and given a bloody good thrashing. The Bambergers If you’ve explored the side alleys hidden behind the town hall you will have come across a fountain featuring a peasant girl carrying pails of water. What’s it all about? She’s the Bamberg girl, and to answer your next question the Bamberg people were poor Catholic farmers from the Bamberg district of Bavaria, Germany. They originally arrived in Poznań over 280 years ago at the invitation of the city authorities. They were to help rebuild villages devastated by the Northern War of 17001721 and depopulated by the spread of plague. Within a century of arriving, the Bambergers had assimilated into the local community, becoming patriotic Poles and later even resisting Prussian attempts to re-Germanize them. The bambrzy, or bambers as they were called, played an important part in helping Poznań become prosperous and in 1915 a fountain with a statue of a small bamberka girl in traditional costume was erected behind the town hall. WHAT TO SEE Poznań Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Poznań) G-1, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. 061 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Militaria, documents and photographs comprising three permanent exhibitions. The History of the Poznań Army covers this fighting force from 1918 to 1939; The Fighting Wielkopolska 1939-1945 details the underground resistance movements that operated during German occupation in World War II; and Battlefield items from the Bzura is a collection relating to the famous battle at the river Bzura in September 1939. Outside an array of military hardware includes a T34 tank, Katyusha rocket launchers, an Studebaker truck and a MIG.QClosed July, August. Open 09:00-16:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Mon Closed. Admission free. Poznan Bamber Museum (Muzeum Bambrów Poznańskich) D-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. 0 603 64 51 62, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Learn everything you ever wished to about the Bamber people inside an interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays number a 17th century bonnet, spinning wheels, paintings, clothing and timber furniture - everything you'd expect in an ethnographic museum. Outside view clunky farming equipment and other such detritus. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free. Residence & Workshop of Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna (Mieszkanie-Pracownia Kazimiery Iłłakowiczówny) E-3, ul. Gajowa 4, tel. 061 847 36 45, www.bracz.edu. pl. The works of the poet and writer Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna (1892-1983) stand preserved in the studio in which she formerly lived. Everything remains as it once was, from writing desks to personal possessions such as original manuscripts, books and paintings. Although Iłłakowiczówna's fame is largely limited to native academics the exhibition isn't a bad diversion if you have a passing curiosity in how poets live. If not, give it a miss. QOpen , Mon 13:00 - 15:00, Thu 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Admission free. Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum (Wielkopolskie Muzeum Etnograficzne) D-2, ul. Grobla 25, tel. 061 852 30 06, www.mnp.art.pl. Once one of Europe's greatest Masonic lodges, this 19th century building now houses a permanent collection of Wielkopolska folk culture. Exhibits include sculpture, painting, clothing, embroidery and decorative art, as well as musical instruments and religious objects. Look out for the display of valuable gifts, as well as a bronze statue of the Hindu goddess Parvati - this was the first addition to the museum following the aftermath of WWII. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5,50/3,50zł, Sat free. Y Tourist information City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji Miejskiej) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Tourist office with detailed tourist and business information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Glob-Tour E-4, Dworzec Główny (Main Train Station), tel. 061 866 06 67. This round-the-clock office in the train station offers a large selection of maps, guidebooks and videos. They also arrange tours and accommodation. Open 24hrs. Tourist Information Centre C-2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. 061 852 61 56. Maps and guides in Polish and English. German, French and some English spoken. Q Open 09:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-20:00. Sun 10:00-18:00. Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (Muzeum Martyrologii Fort VII) Al. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. 061 848 31 38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Completed in 1880 to serve as a Prussian fortress Fort VII gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. It processed around 18,000 Polish prisoners, of which 4,500 are estimated to have been killed. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought provoking walk and visitors can view the ‘death wall' where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark tunnels used as improvised gas chambers - a metal plaque outside reads: ‘Here in October 1939 Nazi Germany began the mass extermination of mentally ill people with the use of poisoned gas'. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved including hand written letters, playing cards, rosaries and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task however. Found in the western suburbs your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20zł for the journey. To get back into town you'll usually be able to flag a cab down on the main road, though you may wish to avoid this game of chance by getting your driver to wait for the half an hour it takes to view the museum. QOpen 09.00 - 17.00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Wielkopolska Military Museum (Wielkopolskie Muzeum Wojskowe) D-2, Stary Rynek 9, tel. 061 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl/ oddzialy/wmw/index.php. Situated inside a brutal post WWII pavilion the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabers, muskets and cannon, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy' is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated with WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak's 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids. QOpen 11:00 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5,50/3,50zł. Sat free. Y Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Wielkopolskiego) C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan. pl. Chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavy machine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy of the uniform worn by the Uprising’s commander-in-chief, as well as original state decorations awarded to him. Other points of interest include a banner flown on the night of the Uprising's outbreak, photos of troop formations and a series of postcards issued to commemorate the event.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sat free. Y poznan.inyourpocket.com Napoleon‘s Poznań A cul t fi gure in military history, Napoleon Bonaparte made several visits to what is now modern day Poland, with Poznań hosting him a couple of times during his forays into the east. He first arrived in the city on November 27, 1806, in a time sandwiched between victorious campaigns against the Prussian and Russian empires respectively. In the words of the German chronicler Hugo Sommer, ‘for three weeks Poznań took on the role of the centre of the European world’. Seen as a liberating hero by the natives (many of whom had fought in his ranks against the Prussians, and later against Russia), Bonaparte took residence at the former Jesuit College (D-2, ul. Gołębia) adjacent to the Church of Stanislaus. For the duration of his stay the college was decorated with gifts from the people, and renamed Château de Posen, while other tributes included the rechristening of al. Marcinkowskiego to rue Napoleon. An official reception was held in the throne room on November 28, while the anniversary of his coronation on December 2 witnessed a celebratory mass in St Stanislaus, before the party of nabobs headed off to a ball thrown in his honour in what was then the Municipal Theatre (nowadays the Arkadia building, B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44). The ball, organized by General Dąbrowski, proved to be one of the society events of Poznań’s history, with the fun sized Frenchman arriving with rose petals scattered in his path. Nine days later Napoleon signed a peace treaty between France and Saxony in the Redutowa Hall of the Hotel Saski (C-3, ul. Wrocławska 25). It wasn’t to be his last visit to the Saski, and he took lodgings here in 1812 on a stop-off during his ill-fated march on Moscow. The Saski itself is worth a visit; although now nothing more than a row of shops it is recognized as being Poznań’s first hotel. Designed by Józef Małczewski, it was constructed b e t we en 17961797, and its hall s e r ve d a s t h e social centre for the local glitterati for the next half a c en tur y. Fe w signs remain of the Frenchman’s tours to this corner of the world, though die hard fans will make the pilgrima ge to Kórnik Castle to view his fork and spoon. Saski today A. Webber July - October 2009 73 74 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE Lech Visitors Centre Places of Interest Lech Visitors Centre ul. Sz- adela. Winiary Hill, north of the Old Town, was transformed into a fortress from 1828 to 1839 by the Prussians. It was destroyed in the siege of 1945, and the remains of the fortifications house the Museum of the Poznań Army and the Citadel Museum, which has open-air displays of military equipment. The rest of the area the fortress occupied is now a large park. Of note are the cemeteries that lie on the south west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth graveyard includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over Poland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those captured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story (minus Steve McQueen). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to Red Army soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring monument standing out as an awesome display of Socialist Realism. The red star that once topped it was long removed, the rumours that it was filled with jewels proving to be urban myth. Jammed in between Soviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to Poles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956 Wielkopolska Uprising. After all the gloom and death the installation titled ‘The Unrecognized' by Magdalena Abakanowicz comes as light relief. Some 112 cast iron headless figures stand at over two metres high and make for curious viewing. Added to the park in 2002, the meaning of the controversial installation is open to debate. For more about the artist visit www.abakanowicz.art.pl. wajcar ska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 74 60, www.kp.pl. A must for all beer aficionados. What could b e b et ter than half a day out at one of Poland’s biggest breweries? The Poznan Brewery, which produces Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds lies on the outskirts of the city. There is no minimum number of people required for a tour so you can happily book by yourself. They do ask that you make an appointment for a tour the day before or at very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite this, our un-announced arrival presented no significant problems - although we were naturally disappointed thatwe would have to wait half an hour in the bar before a guide could be rustled up. The first hour consists of a waltz through the production process, fermenting and mashing as well as the usual guff about water purity and the like. The most striking thing about the first hour’s tour through the production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of steel and technology. The two hour tour, which is available in English, German and Russian is both informative and thorough and your guides are employees of the brewery chosen for their years of experience and interest in the brewing process. The brewery, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive, and having been treated to a facelift in the 1990s is thoroughly modern; you’ll find yourself surrounded by sparkling steel on all sides. For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the multimedia centre. Here you’ll be treated to a film on the history and production of beer, as well as a galaxy of new attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that you take notes because you will be quizzed on the film when it finishes, we kid you not. Take the opportunity to have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech which you can then instantly email to all of your friends or get involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in all of you. After your exhausting cultural experience you’ll finish the tour with a well-earned beer which you can choose from their portfolio of brands, and you can complete your immersion into the world of Lech by buying up fleeces, keyrings, pens and beer mugs from the souvenir shop. To get to the Brewery take a tram over to Rondo Rataje over the river and then take the M1 bus out to the shopping mall on the edge of town. Hop off and you can’t miss the brewery as it has three huge towers draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 20zł. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Poznań In Your Pocket Citadel Park (Park Cytadela) G/H-1, Wzgórze Cyt- Old Town Hall (Ratusz) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 856 81 91, www.mnp.art.pl. First built at the beginning of the 14th century, the seat of Poznań's municipal authorities was rebuilt following the great fire of 1536. Italian architect, Giovanni Quadro of Lugano, was commissioned to oversee the reconstruction, and a renaissance loggia and attic were added, offset by a classical tower. Once revered as the most beautiful building north of the Alps, the town hall has been beset by a catalogue of disasters. A fire in 1675, a hurricane in 1725 and then bomb damage during WWII mean that little of the original structure remains. The oldest surviving parts are the cellars with their early-Gothic cross-vaulted ceilings. Today it houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. The crowds you'll see gathering outside the building at noon are waiting for the two mechanical billy goats to emerge. On Sundays and holidays, a bugle call also comes from the tower; legend has it that a town-hall bugler took care of the King of Ravens, and in return the birds helped to save the city during a siege. Directly outside the town hall is a whipping post, dating from 1535. It was here that miscreants were whipped, executed or led to the city boundaries before being banished from Poznań. The figure standing on top depicts the executioner of Poznań, and funds for the statue were raised from fines levied on maids who would dress above their station. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Poznań Model (Makieta Poznania) C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2 (basement of the Franciscan Church, entrance from Ludgarda Street), tel. 061 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg's picture sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling poznan.inyourpocket.com up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań's development. Foreigners get given headsets to listen to heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. And it doesn't end there. Now added are similar models depicting Poznan in the 11th century, as well as a detailed model of the main square.QShows last 30 minutes and start every 45 minutes between 09:30 and 19:15. From September 1 Open 09:30-17:00 and by prior arrangement. Admission 12/9zł, groups over 20 people 9zł per person. Y The Castle (Zamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Construction on Poznań's fearsome castle began in 1905, with the keys officially handed over to Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Designed by Franz Schwechten the building was built following neoRoman aesthetic with living quarters for the Kaiser located in the west wing, and the throne room in the east. The small park and rose garden in the back was inspired by the Lion's Courtyard in the Alhambra. Between the wars it became the seat of Poznań University though Poznań's incorporation into the Third Reich saw sweeping changes. Albert Speer, Hitler's pet architect set to work transforming the castle, with a view of turning the tower chapel into the Fuhrer's office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the Warthegau district). By 1944 renovation work had finished, with all the original interiors completely remodelled. The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height. Used by the university in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the castle building has operated as a cultural centre since 1962. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission depending on repertoire. The Old Town Square (Stary Rynek) C/D-1/2. The Old Town Square was the centre of old Poznań, and to this day is rich in historic architecture, museums and restaurants. Around 60 per cent of the old town was flattened during WWII, though most of the houses were meticulously rebuilt in the 1950s following Baroque and Renaissance styles. Aside from the two concrete carbuncles planted needlessly in the middle, the town square remains one of the most picturesque in Central Europe. Behind the town hall lies the City Scales building that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. Keep your eyes peeled for several interesting buildings that rim the Rynek: Stary Rynek 43 - Poznań's oldest chemist, Under the White Eagle has been operating since 1564. Stary Rynek 48 - Originally built in the 12th century the house boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city. During the 16th century it was residence of town mayor Kacper Goski. Author of Plague in the Air, Goski also dabbled in astrology. His unlikely, but ultimately accurate, prediction of the Turkish defeat at the Battle of Lepanto immortalized him across Europe. Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade and the small portico over the doorway. During a bawdy drinking bout King August II of Saxony tumbled out of the window; the roof broke his fall and saved his life. Nearby a tablet marks the level that floodwaters reached in 1736. Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned by Mikołaj Ridt, the trader was apparently turned into a werewolf after a foul-mouthed outburst directed at a neighbouring convent. Following war damage the house was rebuilt in 1945 in renaissance style. poznan.inyourpocket.com WWII Poznań After being annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939 Poznań was incorporated into the Third Reich and saw an aggressive Germanisation policy with over 100,000 civilians expelled from the city, replaced with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and other far-flung regions. Of those exiled many died in mass executions conducted in 1940 in the area surrounding Lake Rusałka (E-1). Gestapo HQ was located in (F/G-4) Dom Żołnierza (ul. Niezłomnych 1), in a building that was opened in March 1939 to serve as home to a Polish military garrison. Housing around 200 Gestapo officers the building was primarily used as an interrogation centre with thousands tortured in the basement. It was stormed by the Red Army in February 1945, and fiercely defended by SS military students who ultimately opted for mass suicide over capture. Completely battered by this siege, the only original remenant of the building is its tower, spared the brunt of Soviet aggression for the fact it was used as a reference point by artillery units. Prisoners processed through Dom Żołnierza usually ended up in the (still functioning) prison on ul. Młynska (B-1), or the notorious Fort VII (Al. Polska) in the far west of the city. Used as a penal camp this network of 19th century fortifications today serves as the Museum of Martyrdom, and its gloomy subterranean chambers are filled with relics recovered from the site - photographs, cutlery, wallets and rosaries. Outside the death wall commemorates the thousands shot by firing squad. The Jews faced a particularly vile fate, and it was in Poznań, 1943 that Himmler delivered his speech declaring Nazi intentions to exterminate Jewish life. Today little survives of Poznań’s Jewish heritage, with the early 19th century graveyard on ul. Głogowska (E-4) destroyed by the Nazis, before being commandeered by the authorities in the post-war period and incorporated into the MTP trade fair. Earmarked to serve as the palatial quarters of Gauleiter Arthur Greiser heavy reconstruction work on the Zamek (A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82) by Albert Speer meant that in reality Gresier spent much of the war residing on ul. Berwińskiego 5, today the home of a local radio station. Once the Soviet siege began Poznań was as good as doomed, with the old town faced with around 90% total destruction. A few images of the city in ruins can be viewed in the History of Poznan Museum inside the town hall (C-1, Stary Rynek 1). Another area defended to the last man was the citadel in the north of the city, which today houses the Poznan Army Museum (G-1). Of note are the cemeteries that lie on the south west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth graveyard includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over Poland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those captured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story (minus Steve McQueen and a few other Hollywood touches). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to Red Army soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring monument standing out as an awesome display of Socialist Realism. The red star that once topped it was long removed, the rumours that it was filled with jewels proving to be an urban myth. Jammed in between Soviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to Poles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956 Wielkopolska Uprising. July - October 2009 75 76 THE PIAST ROUTE Those looking to trace the birth of the Polish nation should make it in their interests to follow the Piast Route, a tourist trail specifically designed to take in the key sights associated with Poland’s formative years. Consisting of dozens of castles, churches, cathedrals and museums the route encompasses a vast variety of sights, some relevant to Poland’s beginnings, others whose inclusion is a little baffling. Below are our favourites: Biskupin CASTLES OF WIELKOPOLSKA Strzelno Łagów Castle Although a tiny town of just 12,000 Strzelno is one of the most important points on the trail of the Piasts. Visit St. Adalbert’s Hill to view the Church of St. Prokopus, a rotund house of worship whose history allegedly goes back to the 12th century. Next to it is the Basilica, and though it was retouched in Baroque style its history goes way beyond those times; in 1946 routine restoration work by professor Zdzisław Kępinski revealed a set of Romanesque columns which had been hidden from view for over 200 years. These columns are thought to be over 800 years old, and the only similar ones on record are to be found in Venice and Santiago de Compostella. ul. Kościuszki 3, Łagów, tel. 068 341 21 19, www. zamek-lagow.pl. Lying halfway between Poznań and Berlin Łagów Castle is surprisingly easy to access. If you’re traveling by car make the 100km trip past Świecko and Świebodzin, before leaving the main road and turning right at Gronów. Łagów lies 6km away. Alternatively take a train from Poz to Świebodzin, and from there take a bus to Łagów. Gołuchów Castle The Castle First off you’ll need to know that while Łagów makes for an easy journey this is no daytrip; since being renovated by the Centre for Sports a n d To u r i s m i n 1971 Łagów has functioned solely as a restaurant, h otel an d conference centre, so if you want to snoop around you’ll need to shell out on one of the aforementioned. Jan Jerszyński The good news is that this place is as cheap as a bag of buttons – doubles cost from 180200zł per night, and not only do you get to live the dream of staying in a castle for the night, you can even opt for a night in a ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed this is every gimps dream and comes complete with clunky manacles suspended from the walls and other scary bits and pieces. Bear in mind there’s only 14 rooms here, so do book in advance to avoid disappointment. First mention of Łagów, or castrum Lagowe, can be traced back to 1299 when it was awarded to a knight named Albert von Klepzig by a group of Brandenburg magistrates. The history books concerning the fortress are vague to say the least, though we do know that in 1347 it was leased to the Johanniter Knights, who belonged to the Order of St John, and it was also in this century that ramparts were built and the castle started taking on the form of which we are now familiar with. The castle only saw action once, during the 30 Years War (1618-1648), though passed its acid test with flying colours; its stoic defenders successfully beating off an attack by Swedish troops. As time passed the Johanniter’s became an evangelical knighthood which allowed them to marry, with the first commander of the castle to advantage of this being Andreas von Schlieben. He died in 1571 and was buried in the local church, but that doesn’t mean you’ve got no chance of meeting him. In 1820 the president of the Poznań Treasury was visiting the castle when he saw the ghostly shape of a knight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. The ghost apparently bore a canny likeness to the image on von Schlieben’s tomb and has been spotted several times since; though only in spring and summer, and only by men. There is no sane explanation for the flames that accompany him, but don’t let that ruin a good story. As time passed the Johanniter order was secularized on the whim of Frederic Wilhelm III and the estate was taken over by the state, before being sold on to a series of private landowners. It escaped WWII undamaged and today original details like the 15th century brick gate can still be viewed. The Castle A marvellous castle with an absolute feast of delights lying in wait for those who make the journey. The elaborate Gołuchów has taken many forms over the years, though its beginnings were less than auspicious. It was in 1560 when the local governor Rafał IV Leszczyński chose to build a fortified tower on this spot, filling it with only the most spartan of fixtures and fittings. The castle started taking shape in the following decades when Wacław Leszczyński, no doubt inspired by his studies in Italy and Germany, decided to attach a palace complex to the tower, as well as adding several elaborate details to the original structure. These included carved stone fireplaces, ornamental doors and his vast collection of paintings, though by the 18th century the castle – badly damaged during the course of the 100 Years War – had fallen into disrepair. A new lease of life was granted when Tytus Działyński (see Kórnik Castle, What to see) bought the castle in 1853 and gifted it to his only son, Jan Kanty. Having returned from political exile in Paris (for his part in the January Uprising, 1831) Kanty set about remodelling the castle to follow neogothic and renaissance forms. It was Kanty’s wife though, Izabella Elżbieta Czartoryska, who set about making the castle famous. It was her who didn’t accept original plans for renovation on account of them being too austere, and it was her who made the decision to open a museum. By her death in 1899 the halls of the castle were filled with paintings, tapestries and sculptures dating from the 16th century. The outbreak of WWII spelled disaster for this collection. Although the treasures were stacked away in metal trunks and hidden in Warsaw they were discovered by the Nazis, with the biggest museums of the Third Reich squabbling over the riches. Although much of the collection was recovered after the war most of the spoils were split between the National Museums in Warsaw and Poznań, while the castle itself – used as a warehouse for Nazi uniforms – was left a broken shadow of its former glory. The efforts to restore both museum and castle have been Herculean, and today your first sight of it may remind of the Loire Chateau. The museum is well worth the visit alone, with antiquities including vases from 3BC, 16th century books and manuscripts, gothic artwork and a number of relics that formerly belonged to t h e p r e - wa r m u s e u m . Th e annex near th e castle contains a forestry museum with all manner of stuffed beasts on display, and you may be lucky enough to spot a Polish bison lumping around the surrounding grounds. Mausoleum Trzemeszno In 1933 an eagle-eyed school master spotted wooden stakes sticking out of some lakeside reeds and like a conscientious citizen went to investigate. What he had inadvertently stumbled on was to become known as the Polish Pompeii: a Lusatian fortified settlement dating from the early Iron Age. Excavation work was launched the following year, and carried on under the request of Himmler once Poland fell to Germany. Situated 90km north east of Poznań Biskupin has since become a popular symbol of patriotism, proof to many that Poland has always proudly defended its borders against the Germans. Today the wooden fortress has been fully reconstructed and is open throughout the year as an open air museum. Although not connected with the Piast dynasty it is seen as a vital part of the route that traces Poland’s early origins. Without a doubt Biskupin rates as one of the great wonders of Poland, but that doesn’t mean tourists will find it easy to get there. Your best bet is to either hire a car or hijack a helicopter. If you’re travelling from Poznań using public transport you’ll be left with no choice but spending a night in the local town of Żnin. For more info check the comprehensive English language website at www.biskupin.pl. Kruszwica Found on the banks of Lake Gopło this is a historic market town that became one of the first fortified settlements in the region. Your camera lens is going to primarily be zooming in on the Mouse Tower (Mysia Wieża), a 32 metre structure sitting on the Rzępowski Peninsula. Apparently built during the reign of Kazimierz the Great the tower was awarded its name after a plague of rodents allegedly ate Prince Popiel - a devious chap who had poisoned some rivals. Ostrów Lednicki Found between Poznań and Gniezno a trip to Lake Lednicki allows the opportunity to visit the Museum of the First Piasts - Poland’s largest open-air museum. Situated on an island tourists get to wander around the 10th century ruins of a castle and church once used by both Mieszko I and his son. Once connected to the mainland by a pair of bridges the fortress is thought to have played its part during in repelling the Czech invasion of 1038 and archaeological relics that have been recovered since include weaponry, cutlery and the skeleton of a fallen Czech warrior. Poznań In Your Pocket Before St. Adalbert’s corpse made it to Gniezno it was originally laid to rest in this town. Apparently founded in the 10th century Trzemeszno features a baroque church dating from the 18th century, as well as a monument to the local-born hero Jan Kiliński. A cobbler by trade he went on to become the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice Kiliński led his men to capture the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence, and he is said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism. Wenecja Five kilometers south of Żnin, Wenecja (Venice) is a small settlement whose name alludes to its picturesque location tucked between three lakes. Known as the ‘Pearl of Pałuki’ the town is home to a Narrow Gauge Railway Museum, with its collection featuring a number of steam locomotives (the oldest dating back to 1900), various detritus recovered from the age of steam and a working line that takes captivated visitors all the way to Żnin (stopping at Biskupin). But the real point of interest here are the skeletal ruins of a former Piast stronghold. A leftover from the 14th century the castle once came under the ownership of Mikołaj Nałęcz, a nasty judge who originated from Kalisz. Nicknamed the ‘devil of Wenecja’ his ghost is said to stalk the ruins at night. Wylatowo Founded in 1358 - right at the tail end of King Kazimierz’s rule - the town of Wylatowo has the most tenuous connections with the Piasts, however you’ll find it included in all the bumph related to the Piast Route because of two factors. Firstly, it’s home to the only triple-aisled wooden church in Poland (built 1761). Secondly, it’s famous for extra-terrestrial activity. We kid you not. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped object was photographed floating in the skies in 2007, with lab tests since confirming that there were no camera tricks or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s not the only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop circles first started appearing in the neighbouring fields Wylatowo has established itself as a mecca for Polski ufologists. While some claim the circles are the work of savvy farmers looking to make a quick buck science geeks and X-Files style investigations have yet to determine the cause of this annual summer phenomena. For more info, including live transmissions from the affected areas visit www.ufotv.pl. poznan.inyourpocket.com poznan.inyourpocket.com See Kórnik Castle: page 82 Gołuchów, tel. 062 761 50 94. Situated 115km from Poznań, and 20km north west of Kalisz, Gołuchów can be reached directly by bus from Poznań’s main bus station. July - October 2009 77 78 GNIEZNO GNIEZNO Adalbertus ul. Tumska 7a, tel. 061 426 13 60, fax 061 426 13 60 ext. 160, [email protected], www. pietrak.pl. Younger sister of the Pietrak Hotel, this one situated within eyeshot of the Cathedral and set around a courtyard filled with shrubbery. Found inside a restored 18th century building the Adalbertus features small but decent rooms, many overlooking the cathedral outside. Word of warning - light sleepers should ask for a room anywhere but above the restaurant.Q 24 rooms (6 singles 128 160zł, 14 doubles 152 - 190zł, 4 apartments 240 - 300zł). THAULKXW hhh with framed oil paintings, fragile crockery and pointy linen napkins. The menu promises all the standards of Polish country cooking, and if you’re lucky you’ll find your meal complimented by live jazz performances. QOpen 10:00 23:00. (13-49zł). PTABS Ristorante Italiano ul. Tumska 12 (Hotel Albertus), tel. 061 426 13 60, wwww.pietrak.pl. A formal looking restaurant wi th lots of brocade, red vel vety touches and swish cur tains. The food comes ser ved by impeccably presented gents, and includes a host of Italian classics, as well as some ver y good pizzas for takeway moments. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (11-70zł). TAUBXSW AWO ul. Warszawska 32, tel./fax 061 426 11 97, re- [email protected], www.hotel-awo.pl. A superb deal accessed via an arched courtyard. Toothpaste smile service checks you in at reception before leading you up the stainless steel stairs to spacey rooms that come fitted with cable TV, vast beds and heating that is guaranteed to melt any icicles that have formed on your nose. Under-equipped travelers will appreciate the house computer for your internerd needs and the mini-shampoo in the bathrooms. Q40 rooms (15 singles 160zł, 17 doubles 210zł, 1 triple 250zł, 1 suite 300zł, 3 apartments 300zł). THARULKXW hhh Alex Webber While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city as Poland’s first capital anyone with a passing knowledge of history will identify this as a fib. That title belongs to Gniezno, a picturesque town lying 50km east of Poz. Of all the towns, villages and cities in Poland nowhere is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish state than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained an important centre of worship and to this day is still regarded as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superb medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland. Getting there Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day with the last one in the evening leaving Gniezno at approximately 22:40. You’ve got two class of trains to choose from, either the Pospieszny, which has a habit of packing out with students buried under backpacks, or the Osobowy, which lurches to a stop at every hamlet. Journey time will take anything from fifty minutes to an hour and a quarter and one way tickets retail at little more than 10-12zł. Travellers using the Pospieszny train should note that Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any tannoy announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, an upstairs internet cafe, newsagent and cafe. Getting to town is ABC stuff with the Rynek lying little more than a ten minute from the station. Simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively live the high life and splash out on a cab: five złoty should be enough to get you dropped off in the Rynek. Hotels While there may be no international brands present in Gniezno, the city does offer a pretty decent selection of places to rest your head at very impressive prices if you are travelling from the west. Poznań In Your Pocket Gewert ul. Paczkowskiego 2, tel. 061 428 23 75, fax 061 425 33 43, [email protected], www. gewert.gniezno.pl. Set inside a modern brick building the Gerwert touts all weather tennis courts, conference facilities and rooms decorated in vivacious shades of blue and yellow. Clean, comfortable and a short cab ride from the Rynek. Q24 rooms (24 singles 126 - 140zł, 15 doubles 153 - 170zł, 5 triples 207 - 230zł, 1 suite 207 - 230zł, 2 apartments 189 210zł). THUKXW hh Lech ul. Bł. Jolenty 5, tel. 061 426 23 85, fax 061 424 57 33, [email protected], www.hotel-lech.pl. A brutalist, blockish structure offering cheap rooms decorated with plastic plants and furnishings not seen for a couple of decades. Expect lots of dark brown; a great colour for cake, not for carpet. Nonetheless it’s decent and clean and apparently a popular choice for conferences. Q32 rooms (29 singles 120 - 140zł, 27 doubles 150 - 170zł, 4 triples 180 - 200zł). HAFKDXC h Medical Vocational School Boarding House ul. Mieszka I 27, tel./fax 061 426 34 09, medykgniezno@ op.pl, www.medyk.gniezno.pl. The best bargain in town and as such it should come as little surprise to find no room in the inn. The lodgings here are basic but the fittings are new and kept meticulously scrubbed, and many of the rooms stare out onto a quiet courtyard. TVs and spanking clean bathrooms are part of the price. Good luck finding it though: you’ll need to walk deep into the medical academy that runs this place, before taking your chances with a monolingual receptionist.Q No breakfast served. 50 dorm beds 35-40zł per person. X Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel./fax 061 426 14 97, [email protected], www.pietrak.pl. Set inside a restored townhouse overlooking the high street the Pietrak has long been considered the best hotel in town, which is why you’ll find political luminaries such as Lech Wałęsa and former president Aleksander Kwaśniewski listed in the guestbook. The feast of facilities includes a fitness club and spa, though if you’re tired of running around then get someone else to do it for you; room service is available at your beck and call. Lodgings feature internet, mini-bar and cable TV and the neo-classical rooms come decorated in swish green and cream colours. Beds go quickly here, so do consider booking in advance.Q54 rooms (9 singles 180zł, 28 doubles 210zł, 8 suites 250zł, 9 apartments 320zł). PTHAUFGKDCW hhhh poznan.inyourpocket.com Alex Webber Restaurants Hotel Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel. 061 426 14 97, www.pietrak.pl. The best hotel in town, but definitely not the best meal. Pietrak looks like it fits the bill with its bowtie waiters, creeping ivy and classical columns but there’s no masking a disappointing meal. The menu claims the Chancellor of Germany dined here in 2000 and guests can still eat from the tailor made menu prepared for him. We can only assume the chefs have since changed. We opted for steak in Bernaise sauce accompanied with jacket potatoes and dumplings. The potatoes turned out to be crinkly fries, the dumplings must have got lost in the kitchen and as for the steak; we asked for medium, it came back alive. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (15-50zł). PAUEBXS Ratuszowa ul. Chrobrego 40/41, tel. 061 424 32 23, www.ratuszowa.gniezno.pl. Rated by many as the top restaurant in Gniezno, and it certainly looks the part: black and white flooring, parlour palms and soothing cream colours. It all looks very ballroom and the menu is suitably high end with offerings that range from zander fillet to saddle of deer. Diners be warned, their opening hours are rigorously enforced, which is exactly why we were turned away at 10pm on a Friday night. Better luck next time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (21-48zł). PTARUBXS Ready’s ul. Pałucka 2, tel. 061 428 69 60, www.readys. com.pl. A smallish Greek inspired spot with whitewashed walls, a lovely terrace and supremely friendly girl to note your order. The food won’t win many awards, but for Gniezno the gyros and souvlaki provide a very commendable alternative to Gniezno’s slew of pizza joints. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (11-21zł). PAUGS Restauracja Polska ul. Tumska 5, tel. 061 426 18 00, www.5.gniezno.pl. A super restaurant split into different sections: cafe, restaurant, bistro - not to mention a heavenly garden that will no doubt be closed the moment you read this. Inside numerous chambers come decorated poznan.inyourpocket.com Sphinx ul. Chrobrego 4, tel. 061 426 13 73, www. sphinx.pl. Definitely not a gourmet experience but say it quietly, Sphinx is one of the best chances you have of eating well in Gniezno. You’re probably already familiar with the concept by now; shoarmas, gyros, pizzas and steaks all served with an accompanying spade of cabbage amid an interior of plastic trees and multi-coloured lanterns. The authenticity is definitely there to be questioned. This is after all a Polish chain serving middle eastern food with recipes apparently coined by Tom Maltom. Correct me if I’m wrong but it’s highly unlikely the pharaohs had their feasts prepared by a bloke named Tom. Nonetheless Sphinx is cheap, simple and hits your daily calorie count in one swoop, and that can’t be faulted. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-46zł). PTABXSW Złoty Smok ul. Kaszarska 1a, tel. 061 426 78 04. Like so many of the Chinese restaurants in Poland the Golden Dragon goes straight for the eyes, blinding the visitor with a carnival of lanterns, painted screens and other ghastly bits and pieces. This is not Chinese food the way it’s served back home, but that’s not to say it’s not worth visiting. The prices here are derisory, your coins winning you steaming bowls of all the beef, duck and chicken dishes you’d expect. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (8-25zł). PS Bars & Clubs Dracula Pub Rynek 15. To find that Gniezno has a nightlife comes as an unexpected plus, to then find it has a Dracula pub is enough to have you considering relocating. ‘Love never dies’ proclaims a sign above the threshold, and from thereon it’s a cheery romp through the underworld as a maze of subterranean chambers reveal walls adorned with scary zombie masks, lanterns with Halloween faces and coffin-shaped doors. Find a solitary bargirl looking completely bemused by it all as she attempts to multitask between homework and finding a radio signal. Completely unexpected and a fantastic diversion, even if none of the locals seem to agree. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Pub ul. Rzeźnicka 7 (entrance from ul. Chrobrego 3), tel. 061 426 14 97 ext. 158, www.pietrak.pl. Possibly the most popular drinkery in town, and while the name lacks imagination the interior doesn’t. Murals of cacti, a couple of wagon wheels and a wood frame bar suggest an attempt at a Dodge City bar, and other extras include an unexplained mannequin staring from atop of a mezzanine. The visual diversions don’t end there; the moment work finishes you’ll find half of Gniezno choosing to drink here, and it won’t take for outsiders to note that they’re a good looking bunch. Plenty of eye candy here, a screen for football and a background noise of party tunes lend this place a permanent buzz that lasts long into the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUEBX July - October 2009 79 80 GNIEZNO The Birth of Poland Seeing that Poland occupies a fair chunk of Europe it’s safe to assume it has a history to match the greatest of nations. Indeed, to pen the full story of Poland and its origins would be to come up with a tome thick enough to stun an elephant. So we’ve skipped a few steps and come up with the idiot’s guide to the birth of Poland, and the key sights that the amateur historian should view. Poland’s first ruling family were the Piast’s, and although legend has the family line going back to the 8th century we’ll start our story with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on the face of the ten złoty note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved around the battlefield, leading his troops into battle from the Baltic Coast to the plains of Silesia. When he wasn’t hacking heads off he spent most of his time in the Wielkopolska region, specifically in his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrow Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded the cathedral in Poznań two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the nation’s Christianisation. Following his death in 992 he was succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20zł note), and it’s around this time where our story gathers pace. Adalbert had been the first Bishop of Prague, though the strains of the job proved too much for him. Seeking a quieter life he took up residence in Gniezno. Persuaded out of exile he set off to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes to Christianity. It turned out to be a foolish move: he was killed immediately, his head ending up on a spike. Bolesław decided to recover the corpse, and made the perilous journey westwards to do so. A ransom was paid and he headed back to Poland with the corpse in tow. It was a selfless act, and one that so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman Empire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view the body and meet with Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had himself crowned king. Commonly known as Bolesław the Great or Bolesław Chrobry the nation’s first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing through his smart diplomacy. His son and heir, Mieszko II, didn’t fare so well, dying in suspicious circumstances nine years into his reign. In spite of his sticky demise the Piast’s remained in power, and continued to rule Poland for centuries to come. Their successes were hit-and-miss, and the rulers frequently found themselves at conflict with the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened to disintegrate, and it wasn’t until the coronation in 1320 of Władysław I that concerted efforts were once more made to unite Poland’s different provinces. The work of Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later be known through history as Kazimierz the Great - he doubled the size of Poland, stabilized the economy, and commissioned the construction of a number of castles and forts. What he failed to do, however, was have a son. Not one of his four wives was able to bear him a son, and his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. The Piast Route covers the most important sites connected with Poland’s early beginnings, and presents the mobile tourist with a number of forts, cathedrals, ruins and miscellaneous locations to visit. For a comprehensive list visit the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organization at www.turystyka. powiat-gniezno.pl. Poznań In Your Pocket GNIEZNO Pub Cafe ul. Warszawska 32, tel. 061 426 11 97, www. hotel-awo.pl. Inch your way down a set of spiral stairs to find this basement bar. Filled with sporting trophies, mirrors and timber this is where the local lads head to in order to catch the match, their beer poured with panache by a personable gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Check out the posters on the walls to see what games stand to be broadcast. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. AXW The Gniezno Cathedral (Archikatedra Gnieźnieńska) ul. Łaskiego 7, tel. 061 426 19 09. Churches Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the cathedral is the ‘Gniezno doors’, a pair of winged bronze doors dating from the 12th century, and it’s here you’ll begin your tour. Regarded as one of the most important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland the doors feature 18 panels, each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St Adalbert. Start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel, and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are an exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on the fourteenth. That’s his head on a stick in the next. Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) ul. Farna 6, tel. 061 426 15 55. An interesting church with a Gothic tower whose key feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving figure of St Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed by fire and its interiors were thereafter treated with a baroque brush. Outside are the only skeletal remains of the ancient city walls which once ringed Gniezno. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Museums Museum of Gniezno Archdiocese (Muzeum Archidiecezji Gnieźnieńskiej) ul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. 061 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.pl. If you’re eyes are still hankering for the sight of more treasure then head here to view a lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: gold goblets, embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffin portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged to St. Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for the eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/4zł. The Museum of the Origins of the Polish State (Muzeum Początków Państwa Polskiego) ul. Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. 061 426 46 41, www.mppp.pl. Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle this museum features numerous audio-visual presentations designed to appeal to the numerous school trips that file through the doors, as well copies of archaeological relics dating back to the founding of the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls and daggers. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 18zł, group ticket over 10 people 5,50/3,50zł per person, Sun free. Old town Gniezno received its city charter in 1285, and as with all towns the action came firmly centred around the market square (Rynek). The great fire of Gniezno in 1819 gutted this area, and most buildings have been rebuilt since that day. Look closely and you’ll see red bricks marking what once formed the town perimeter, as well as nameplates dedicated to the cities and firms who have funded more recent restoration work. The little pyramid structures denote where the town gates once were. What remains of the old city walls can be found south of the Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and the Holy Trinity Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every turn, though predictably none representing the Jewish faith; the towns one synagogue suffered a fiery fate after a highranking nazi official broke his leg while clambering up it in a post-party alcoholic stupor. Infuriated by his misfortune the budding fascist ordered the buildings destruction. In recent years the towns finest moment came when the Congress of Gniezno was held here in 2000. The leaders of Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met in Gniezno to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of unity planted five oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’ running north of the Rynek. The German chancellor later dined in the restaurant of the Hotel Pietrak (itself a former vodka factory), and diners have the opportunity to order exactly what he ate. poznan.inyourpocket.com Gniezno’s cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kings were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while a follow up solo tour allows you to take stock of the riches and relics before you. Now, here’s the interesting part. This might be one of the most important treasures in Poland, but no-one has a clue who designed it. In fact, it’s highly likely the pair of doors weren’t even made together. Look closely and you’ll see that the left side is higher and wider, as well as more detailed in its engravings, indicating that the set of doors are possibly the work of a master and his apprentice. We do know they probably originated in Germany, but the trail stops there. The portal that frames the door is worth further investigation in its own right. Dating from 1400 it features an engraving of Jesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark the entrance to heaven). The two swords in his mouth are symbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth, while the animals carved in stone represent human vices - for instance the rabbit is cowardice, the squirrel greed and the fox cunning. Keep your eyes peeled for the scratching on the left side - what looks like the work of a vandals key is actually the sign of the craftsmen who built the portal (in those days artists marked their work with a sign, not a signature). Next up on your tour is a trip to the crypt. In it there’s Poland’s oldest gravestone, as well as the remains of a fireplace that pre-dates the cathedral - indication that the site was most probably a pagan place of worship. Early foundations and details have also been excavated, and one can view remains of an early alter, walls and tiled flooring (whose patterning is copied on the ten złoty note). It’s here you’ll also be able to view the coffins of the past primates of Poland, as well as a collection of mysterious looking urns and pots. And so, onto the cathedral proper. Recently subject to renovation work Gniezno Cathedral looks finer than ever. Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the cathedral has been patched up and embellished over the course of time, and nowadays it is the baroque flourishes that steal the show. It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of must see details, and it’s at Tourist information Tourist Information Centre Rynek 14, tel. 061 428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. An Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno related info. Expect English language pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel and restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of an amicable young team of local enthusiasts.QFrom July Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. From October Open 08:00-16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. poznan.inyourpocket.com this stage where having a guide becomes invaluable. First off, you’ll have differences between the nave and presby ter y pointed out - the style of the former sug gests it was built in Germany, while the latter has a design more familiar with English and French workshops. The 13 arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. Head to the furthest side chapel on the left of the main entrance to see paintings of Polish saints, passing on your way one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Krakow. In total the cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels, whom when grouped together constitute the largest collection of ecclesiastical grating in the country. Behind these metal grills are a number of points of interest, including a miracle working crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th century when it was first seen to bleed. The confession, situated at the top end of the cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of St Peter’s in Rome. Behind it is the silver sarcophagus of St Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van Rennen. Considered the most important relic in the country the silver coffin is balanced on six eagles, and carried on the figures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight. Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by Poland’s former regents. As frustrating as this locked door policy is it’s fully understandable. The cathedral has had misfortune served up by the spade. Its significance to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s been burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason. The Nazis, on the other hand, had other plans. Hitler’s portrait replaced that of St Adalbert and the cathedral was earmarked to serve as a concert venue for high ranking fascists. However, on the opening night, just when these Nazi nabobs were settling into their seats a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall, disappearing into the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but none hit their mark. Was this a ghostly apparition, or simply the work of a local prankster? Thoroughly spooked the Nazis weren’t hanging around to find out, and plans to turn the cathedral into a concert hall were shelved thereafter. Although the German occupiers refused to set foot in the cathedral it still wasn’t safe from their beastly designs. Employing Volksdeutsch workers they set about stripping the building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless treasures to shady vaults. The confession escaped them, however, hidden single-handedly by one conscientious worker. The organ too survived, only to be blown to smithereens by the Soviets in 1945. The bell shared the same fate, and the original one now lies outside the main entrance. The bell tower is open in better weather and its 214 steps lead to panoramic views across town. What you won’t find however is a bell - ever since the Russians re-arranged the cathedral all the bells have been housed in a separate building. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 2,5/2zł. Group ticket for up to 20 people 1,5/1zł per person. Guide 30zł. July - October 2009 81 82 KÓRNIK KÓRNIK Kórnik Castle (Zamek Kórnik) ul. Zamkowa 5, Kórnik, tel. 061 817 00 81, www.bkpan.poznan.pl. Originally built at the tail end of the 14th century by the Górka family, the castle has been extensively remodelled through the centuries, and is one of the few cultural treasures that was spared the hurricane of destruction of WWII. The ideal backdrop for a supernatural horror, the corridors of Kórnik represent a marvellous trip through time. Hailed as one of the great castles in Poland the neo-Gothic Kórnik lies 20km south east of Poznań and makes for an easy day trip for those looking to see a little more of the region. Getting there If you’re in Poznań the easiest way to reach Kórnik is by bus. You have two choices. Either take the private Kombus bus (tel. 061 898 06 66, www.kombus.com.pl), numbers 501, 502 or 560 which leave from the Kombus bus station (I-5, Rataje Roundabout, ul. Krzywoustego 19). Tickets are bought directly from the driver - just ask for Kórnik Rynek, hand the man 5.80/2.90zł (for students up to the age of 26, children under 4 travel free) and away you go. Your journey will take around 30 minutes. There is at least one bus every hour departing around 12 minutes past the hour on weekdays with an extra bus running at peak times. At weekends buses leave once an hour, most hours, at the start of the hour. Buses run from 05:12 until 23:37. There is also a PKS bus (tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl) that runs from Main Bus Station (F-4 ul. Towarowa 17/19). The first one leaves at 05:30 and the last 22:30. Buses leave Poznań at least once an hour with additional buses between 11:00 and 17:00. Ticket costing 7zł may be bought in the ticket office in the station or from the driver. The castle is a ten minute walk from the bus stop, and the closer it looms the more impressive it appears. Founded by the Górka’s this noble family fell into extinction and, after bitter ownership wrangles, the castle passed into the hands of the Działyński family at the end of the 17th century. It would remain the family domain until 1880 when it was inherited by their closest (legitimate) relative, Władyslaw Zamoyski, who before his death in 1924 bequeathed the castle to the Polish nation. Kórnik Penned in by lakes and forests Kórnik (pop. 6,500) is your signature provincial town, with its principal high street lined with trees and two storey townhouses dating from the 18th and 19th century. On alighting from the bus you’ll be met with the sight of All Saints’ Church, a beautiful brick building founded in 1437 and funded by the Górka’s. It was rebuilt in a neo-Gothic style in 1826 after being gutted by fire, and its crypt holds All Saints’ Church Poznań In Your Pocket A. Webber Kórnik Castle A. Webber members of the Działyński and Zamoyski families - more of them later. Other points of interest include ‘the eye of the needle’, a narrow passage leading to a now defunct Jewish prayer house (find it on the main high street as you go into town, keeping an eye out for the Hebrew inscription on the wall), as well as the neo Baroque town hall, now serving as the seat of local government. Built in 1907 its stand out feature is the mechanical rooster that appears out of the clock on the strike of noon. The name of Kórnik is thought to refer to the locals’ skill in raising roosters (kur) and as such you’ll find no shortage of game on offer in the local restaurants. The best address in town is Biała Dama (Pl. Niepodległości 20, 061 817 02 16), a vast restaurant hidden inside a squat reminder of the 1960s. Festooned with plants, ceremonious lighting and the obligatory picture of The White Lady, they have the benefit of an English menu on which you’ll find dishes like boar and venison. Unless you have the fortune of having your moment of quiet contemplation hijacked by a wedding party its more than likely you’ll be doing your dining in echoing silence. For a more down to earth experience hit Kórnicka (ul. Poznańska 19/21, 061 898 06 22) - a locals restaurant with yellow walls, local radio and the lonely chime of grandfather clocks to remind you of the desperation of living in the sticks. No booze license, and no English menu, though the greasy plates of Polish food will do enough to keep you from cannibalism. If you’re keen to linger on in Kórnik then consider booking a night in Hotel Daglezja (ul. Woźniaka 7, tel. 061 897 27 00, www.hoteldaglezja.pl, singles 179zł, doubles 219zł, apartments 299zł). The bad news is the exterior, a complete work of insanity; although given a modern look the horror includes a mock castle tower complete with pieces of stone cladding, and a connecting wing painted in ghastly rainbow colours. Fortunately the accommodation is great, with a very decent contemporary standard, new fittings and highly commendable restaurant serving local and European dishes. poznan.inyourpocket.com Today the castle owes its appearance to the Działyński family, with the last reconstruction occurring during the 19th century while the castle was under the stewardship of Tytus Działyński. Having originally commissioned the Italian architects Corazzi and Marconi to draw up plans Tytus was put off by the extravagant costs of their suggestions so commissioned a third architect, the German K.E Schinkel (responsible for many of Berlin’s neo-classical structures). Although Schinkel prepared detailed sketches he never actually visited Kórnik, so a frustrated Tytus - a savvy engineer - took matters into his own hands and used a conglomeration of his own ideas and previously submitted plans. Taking a handson approach both he and his wife designed all the interiors themselves, leaving their indelible mark on the castle. Accessed across a wooden draw bridge a visit to the castle does not begin until you’ve strapped a pair of oversized slippers to your feet and done a couple of deft ice-skating moves on the slidey surfaces. Immediately to your right lies the study of Zamoyski, the last owner. Furnished with 17th century Gdańsk cupboards the room also includes a mahogany desk from England, a 19th century Webster’s dictionary and a travelling chest that the workaholic Zamoyski would sometimes use as a pillow. Further on the route takes you through a variety of chambers, each packed with paintings and ornate furnishings. The drawing room is one of the highlights of the ground floor, and features a grand piano owned by Tytus’ sister, Claudyna. Given to her in Dresden, legend has it that Chopin once tickled these ivories in his bid to seduce her. The fireplace, grand as it is, should be noted for other reasons. It’s in here that a patriotic Tytus hid to escape arrest for his involvement in the 1831 Uprising. Other treasures to look for include a rotating table, made from 16 different species of wood, thereby allowing guests to whimsically decree which particular segment they would dine on, and the room is also home to a French pedal harp, its strings made from animal intestines. Carrying on visitors can view an original mosaic from Pompeii depicting a slavering hound and a warning to ‘Beware of the Dog’, while the wooden ceiling of the dining room features 71 coats of arms belonging to the Polish aristocracy. At the end of the room, a giant portrait of Teofila, who is said to float down from her portrait on occasion as a White Lady and stalk benignly around the grounds. On your way out don’t pass by the mirror; look straight into the middle of it, and make a wish instead. Known as the Morskie Oko (a lake in Zakopane), this mirror is something of a point of pilgrimage for newlyweds. Last on your tour of the ground floor is the Hunting Room. Of note are the interlocked antlers of a pair of a deer, the remains of a deadly fight in the forests of Kórnik. A host of anthropologi- poznan.inyourpocket.com cal treasures fill the rest of the room, including Melanesian masks crafted from human bone and a necklace made from human teeth. The seashells on display are the collection of Zamoyski who planned to use them to build a subterranean chapel - a plan abandoned after his death. Walking up the stairs a huge hall designed to mimic the Alhambra contains Tytus’s collection of military weaponry, from the uniforms of winged hussars, to five metre lances. Other curios include two handed battleaxes, lances from the 15th century and a 16th century Spanish chest. Used to store valuables this 13 lock monstrosity can be viewed as being the precursor to the safe. From there on you’ll find a dizzying arrange of personal effects, from Napoleon’s spoon to military medals and even a death cast taken of Jan Działyński’s hand - a supreme example of the sepulchral art of the day. Kórnik is also an important seat of academia, and the library found inside the castle rates as one of top five in Poland. Founded by Tytus Działyński in 1828 it boasts over 400,000 tomes, including approximately 30,000 books over 150 years old. The prize possession is the Order of Benedict, a 9th century manuscript which is the oldest in Poland. Since 1953 it has operated as part of the National Library of Poland, with an onus on science, and you’ll find many of the more interesting books frequently put out on public display; available for view on our visit were a map from 1482, a first edition of Copernicus’ defining work, De Revolutionobis and a 16th century bible penned in twelve tongues. Although the library suffered looting courtesy of the Nazi forces the castle itself was saved from an ignoble end by the sharp wits of a curator; keep your eyes to the ground by the entrance, close to the Zamoyski’s study; it’s here you’ll spot a tile arrangement vaguely resembling a swastika; this was pointed out to a group of visiting German officers as a sure sign of Nazi supremacy, and they left peacefully satisfied in the knowledge that Kórnik was German enough to be saved from destruction.QOpen 10.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/7zł, family ticket 28zł. Guided tours up to 35 people 60zł. The Arboretum Having toured round the castle don’t make the mistake of ignoring the arboretum outside. Originally it was our favourite white lady, Teofila, who founded the gardens, creating a park in the popular French style with trimmed shrubs, artificial ponds and stone statues. The garden was completely remodeled by Tytus Działyński, who expanded the park, imported many of the trees currently standing and gave it its English look. Today the fifty hectare site serves as a marvellous walk, with numerous protected species and trees from as far away as China. Winding pathways take you round the site, providing many memorable scenes no matter what season you’re visiting in. Linden trees dating back 350 years line the principal route, taking you round the various lakes and rivers. Like the castle, the Arboretum was saved from the ravages of WWII by a quick thinking member of staff. Alarmed that Soviet soldiers were chopping down trees for firewood the gardener appealed to the patriotism of the Soviet commander, declaring that the forest was also home to the Siberian apple tree. Appalled by this desecration the commander stopped his troops in their tracks and the park was saved. Battered by storms in January 2007, the park has stood the tests and trials of time, its status confirmed by the presence of the National Institute of Dendrology. www.inyourpocket.com July - October 2009 83 84 ŁÓDŹ Łódź In Your Pocket Your first lesson in Polish. ¯$l Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most certainly isn’t. Think of it as Woodge, and three hundred years ago a visit here would have produced the sight of little more than one man and his dog. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. And while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all inside the current issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language guide to the city. Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps May - August 2009 Karski One man versus the Holocaust At a glance 7KHEHVWRIÒyGŜ 1]á(w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1896-1169 Getting there Łódź lies South East of Poznań and is easily accessed by train. If you’re travelling from Poznań you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź Kaliska train station, allowing approximately four hours for journey time. Only a few trains a day run from Poznań, so if you’re determined to get there then your best bet will be going via Warsaw. If travelling from the capital you’ll need a ticket to Łódź Fabryczna station. The city centre is directly across the road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street, ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers should only use cabs that are clearly marked. Those taking the Poznań train will arrive at Łódź Kaliska station, approximately two kilometres from the centre. Taxis stand outside and you should pay no more than 15zł to get to the city centre. Some basics Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800 as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a manufacturing centre. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steampowered factory in Poland was officially christened. A massive influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made by the major industrialist families. By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź. Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000 Poznań In Your Pocket Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting underground culture. Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www. inyourpocket.com. Manufaktura How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story. Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen showings of sports events. With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone. For the more languorous character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress; further additions include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill into a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel, as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’s museum and technological museum. poznan.inyourpocket.com 86 LEISURE LEISURE Bowling Fitness Clubs & Gyms Outdoor playgrounds Ośrodek Przywodny Rataje os. Piastowskie 106a Niku Fitness & Squash ul. Baraniaka 8 (level 2) Plac Zabaw-Malta Ski K-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 061 (Nowe Miasto-Rataje), tel. 061 871 06 42, www.bowling.poznan.pl. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Thu 15:00 - 23:00, Fri 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 6-14zł per game, 40-70zł per hour. Casino Casinos Poland G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36 (Hotel Polonez), tel. 061 853 06 05, www.casinospl.com.pl/ poznan.php. Five American roulette tables, two black jack, one Casinos Poland poker table, one mini poker, one poker plus and over 30 slots. Also with bar and currency exchange facilities.QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. Orbis Casino G-4, Pl. Wł. Andersa 1, tel. 061 858 71 81, www.orbiscasino.pl. Poker, black jack, grand poker, American roulette and slots. Over 70 slots in the salon, with the gaming room open from 11am to 8am Monday to Sunday. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. Extreme sports Magnum ul. Witosa 45, tel. 061 848 78 96, www. strzelnica-magnum.pl. Shooting club whose arsenal includes Glock's and AK-47's. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 1-8zł to fire a shot. Toboggon Run (Letni Tor Saneczkowy Malta Ski) ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 061 878 22 12, www.maltaski.pl. A twisting 530 metre tobaggon run with speeds eaching 50km/hr plus. You'll be paying 7-9zł for one go. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. (Galeria Malta), tel. 061 658 12 15, www.niku.pl. Six air conditioned squash courts endorsed by the Squash World Fedeeration as well as whole lot of fitness classes - fat burning, spinning, yoga, steps and dance. Q Fitness Open 06:30-23:00, Sat 09:00-20;00, Sun 10:00-18:00. Squash 06:30-24:00, Sat 08:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-22:00. Recreation Center Niku (Centrum Rekreacji Niku) ul. Piątkowska 200, tel. 061 826 33 66, www.niku.pl. Some 18 bowling alleys as well as a wellness and spa centre, squash courts and gym in one of the finest fitness centres in the region. Classes on offer include steps, spinning, yoga and dance.Q Fitness Open 07:00-22:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-18:00. Bowling Open 09:00-24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Flying OSL Oborniki ul. Wybudowanie 129 (Oborniki), tel. 0 501 13 36 62, www.osl-oborniki.info. The local flying club, with machines on offer ranging from microlights and gliders to contraptions of a larger nature. Q Depends on the weather. 6-8zł per minute. Go-carting Worldkar ts ul. Bolesława Kr zy woustego 72, (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 872 01 97, w w w.worldkar ts.com. Poznań's premier Go Kar ting track wi th over 2,600 metres of track and car ts for both kids and adul ts. Q Open 14:00 - 00:00, Fri 14:00 - 01:30, Sat 10:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Admission 3250zł per 12min. 878 22 22, www.maltaski.pl. Wooden kids playground with slides, mazes and obstacles. Q Admission free. Paintball Paintball Fort Dębiec ul. 28 czerwca 1956 352, tel. 0 79107 20 10, www.poznan-paintball.pl. Add authenticity to the paintball experience by killing your mates in a 19th century military fort. Q Open by prior agreement. 65/43 zł per game. Trygon ul. Nowowiejskiego 39, tel. 061 839 02 75, www.trygon-imprezy.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Price by prior agreement. Golf Golf Club Bytkowo ul. Pawłowicka 3b (Bytkowo), tel. 061 665 06 56, www.golfclub-bytkowo.pl. 18 hole golf course with lessons and club hire available for beginners. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:30. Admission 120-150zł. Mini Golf Malta Ski ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 061 878 22 48, www.maltaski.pl. 18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Admission 13-17/11-14zł. Squash Centrum Fitness Olymp ul. Smoluchowskiego 15, tel. 061 661 76 31, www.olymp.org.pl. Gym, sauna and squash. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 35-55zł. Swimming Aquatic D-1, ul. Wroniecka 11a, tel. 061 851 01 71, www.aquatic-wroniecka.pl. An old town swimming pool with the unique distinction of formerly being a pre-war synagogue. QOpen 07:15 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Tickets 12/8zł. Wellness Niku ul. Piątkowska 200 (Galeria Malta), www.niku.pl. Bowling, wellness and spa, squash courts and gym in one of the finest fitness centres in the region. Spa & Beauty CitiSPA C-3, ul. Długa 4, tel. 061 667 54 45, www. citispa.pl. Upmarket treatments for both men and women including massage, steam bath and cosmetic pampering QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Samui Hair Beauty F-3, ul. Libelta 14a, tel. 061 853 43 99, samui-spa.pl. Beauty treatment with an Oriental twist. Treatments include traditional Thai massage, permanent make-up and hair styling. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Spalarnia ul. Czarnieckiego 56 (Puszczykowo Stare), tel. 0 728 49 99 88. The ultimate pampering experience includes massage with bamboo sticks and coconuts, and they’re also one of the few venues to offer what known as ‘Kinesiology Taping’. Private spa, also.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com Zoos poznan.inyourpocket.com Chilean Flamingo in New Zoo Kwolana New Zoo (Nowe Zoo) ul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 animals representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 per cent pine and mixed forests with an artificialycreated creek and string of ponds running through the grounds. This way, the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than inhumane concrete pens. A pavilion for nocturnal animals was added in 1995. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Y Old Zoo (Stare Zoo) E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. 061 848 08 63, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Poland’s oldest zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions. Beasts occupying the 4.39 hectare zoo include lions, zebras, giraffes, hippopotami, monkeys and apes. It officially became a Poznań historical site in 1972. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Y Meet the locals As Poland’s fifth biggest city, and one of its oldest, it’s only sensible to assume a few famous faces have hailed from these parts. A few need no introduction, take Paul von Hindenburg for example, the former President of the Weimar Republic. Other names, however, will have you scratching your head and staring into space. Take for instance the marvelously titled Sir Paul Edmund de Strzelecki. This guy led quite a life, and his story includes being exiled out of town for trying it on with a fifteen year old girl, and being the first chap to scale Australia’s highest peak. Aside from that he was a mate of Florence Nightingale, and also responsible for discovering gold in Australia. Then there’s Paul Leonhardt, a German chess genius who died during a match in 1934. More famous Germans come in the form of Lothar von Arnauld de la Perière, recognized as the most successful U-Boat ace ever, with 141 sinkings to his name. One thoroughly nasty product of Poznań was Arthur Liebehenschel, who would go on to achieve infamy as commandant of Auschwitz and Majdanek concentration camps. Justice caught up with him, and he was executed in 1948. On a less sinister note there’s Lili Palmer, a Poznan born actress who was once married to all-time heartthrob Rex Harrison. Moving onto the sporting side, veteran football forward Maciej Żurawski hails from Poz, while women’s basketball player Małgorzata Dydek holds the honour of being the tallest woman to ever compete in the WNBA – 218 cm in case you’re wondering. July - October 2009 87 88 SHOPPING Antiques The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little stores selling antiques, a quick exploration of the side streets will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th century coins and navigational charts. Do remember when purchasing that permission will be required if you're planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country - for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the shop, though do check beforehand. Antykwariat Kolekcjoner (Antique Shop) D-1, ul. Kramarska 20, tel. 061 853 07 82. Eclectic mix of antiques with antique Roman coins. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Filatelistyka B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 37, tel. 061 853 63 68. Coins and stamps in the courtyard. QOpen 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Galeria Michał Skowron D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 853 01 97, www.galeriaskowron.pl. Classy old furniture. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Horn D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 42, tel. 061 851 56 27. Antiques and an art gallery on the main square. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Books & Paper Empik C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 667 12 00, www.empik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Ksiegarnia Powszechna (World Bookshop) C-2, ul. Stary Rynek 63, tel. 061 851 82 07, www.powszechna. pl. Your one stop shop for intellectual stimulation. A large bookshop in a prime spot with late opening hours. There is a wide selection of English-langage books near the back and to the left on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Flowers Baccara - Art B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 21, tel. 061 853 71 78. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kwiaciarnia Lewkonia A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 63, tel. 061 853 78 38. Send flowers to your loved ones through the Euroflorist. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Poczta Kwiatowa , tel. 022 828 95 95, www.pocztakwiatowa.pl. Flowers, fruits and vegetables. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Hypermarkets Auchan ul. Głogowska 432 (Grunwald-Komorniki), tel. 061 656 86 44, www.auchan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, DIRECTORY includes parking for some 1,000 vehicles, and can also be reached by bus number 79. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. King Cross Marcelin E-3, ul. Bukowska 156, tel. 061 886 04 02, www.kingcrossmarcelin.com.pl. Over 54,000 square metres of sheer retail joy including a Real hypermarket and the largest Media Markt in Poland. Other stores include H&M, Reserved, Rylko and Everlast. Opened in 2005 access to this relative newbie can be gained by bus numbers 48, 50, 59 and 77. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Pasaż Rondo J-2, ul. Zamenhofa 133, tel. 061 874 22 90, www.pasazrondo.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Poznań Plaza ul. Drużbickiego 2 (Piątkowo), tel. 061 664 59 00, www.poznanplaza.pl. Opened in 2005 Poznan Plaza features 150 retail units in an area spanning some 66,000m2. Flagship stores include Zara, H&M, Smyk, Mexx, Espirit, Reserved and Cinema City. To get there from the Rynek take tram number 16. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Stary Browar Shopping Mall G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. 061 859 60 50, www.starybrowar.pl. Originally home to the Huggera Brewery, the building has always cast a huge influence on the city with beer production hitting 72,000 hectalitres in 1918. Even under German occupation the building continued to churn out piwo, with production only ceasing in 1944 when the basement was converted into bunkers and air-raid shelters. Heavily damaged in the siege of Poznań the hulk of a building finally stopped brewing beer in 1980. Stary Browar carried on operating at a fraction of its capacity producing mineral water, though it was only in 1998 that it was finally awarded a new lease of life. Bought by the Fortis group, an original investment of US$66 million saw the building transformed. Opened amid much fanfare in November 2003 the shopping mall now covers an area of over 100,000m2, and draws an average of 40,000 people daily. With over 210 retail units, including the Van Graaf designer store, bookshops and Alma gourmet delicatessen, the complex has become one of the most talked about developments in the country. Souvenirs The streets of Old Town should be your first call for souvenirs, and it's here you'll find plenty of specialist shops selling products associated with Poland: cut glass, handicrafts from the mountain regions, lace tableware and ceramics. Best known of the lot is the nationwide Cepelia chain. Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Real ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 874 56 00, www.real.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Cepelia D-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. 061 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts. Also at ul. Woźna 12 (H-3; 061 852 07 94) and ul. Ratajczaka 20. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Shopping malls Speciality Galeria Malta ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka 8, tel. 061 658 10 Wine Shop G-3, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Global wines for purchase at the back end of the Dom Vikingow complex. QOpen 12:00 18:00. 22, www.galeriamalta.pl. The largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March Malta features a Multikino and fitness club, as well as a Marks & Spencer, Cottonfield, H&M, Benneton, Tatuum, Pull & Bear, Vero Moda and Empik. Bus lines 57 and 84 (241 at night) go right to the door, as do trams number 1, 4, 6, 7 and 17. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. CH Panorama ul. Górecka 30 (Górczyn), tel. 061 650 01 03, www.galeriapanorama.pl. Over 150 stores including CCC, Triumph, EMPiK, Deichmann, Rossmann and Atlantic. Going strong for 12 years this 16,500 metre mall Poznań In Your Pocket Tax refund Non-EU residents can claim VAT refunds on purchases made in shops bearing the Global Refund logo. The only condition is a minimum outlay of 200zł on your part on the item purchased. Claim your Global Refund cheque, have it stamped at customs before claiming your money back at your nearest cash refund office. For full details check www.globalrefund.com. poznan.inyourpocket.com Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our directory has many useful contacts for you. Click on the left for listings. Remember to email us if you find any of our contacts paticularly helpful or, for that matter, unhelpful. We also welcome new additions. 24-hour pharmacies Apteka Centralna C-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. 061 852 26 25. Q Open 24 hrs. Apteka Galenica C-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel. 061 852 99 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl. Q Open 24hrs. Business facilities Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. 061 859 05 90, www.dominahotels.pl. Domina Residence in Poznań will be offering conference facilities for up to 25 people with multimedia projectors, wifi, cordless microphones, full speaker system, 3 x 2.5m projector screens and a 50" plasma screen. For further information please contact Łukasz Uliszewski at Domina Residence. Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061 858 70 00, www.orbisonline.pl. Sheraton Poznan Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. A choice of 7 conference rooms ranging from 35 to 210m in size with videoconferencing and wifi available. Consulates & Embassies Czech Republic F-3, ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 22 92. Honorary consulate, open every day 10:00 -18:00. Denmark E-5, ul. Strusia 10, tel. 061 866 26 28. Honorary consulate. To contact the consul, call first to arrange a meeting. Dentists Radus C-3, ul. Szymańskiego 7/3, tel. 061 855 12 43, www.radus.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Genealogy National Archives B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 41/43, tel. 061 852 46 01, www.poznan.ap.gov.pl. Language schools Berlitz G-4, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850 95 95, www.berlitz.pl. EMPiK B-1, ul. 27 grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel. 061 851 00 62, www.empik.edu.pl. 30/05 p.r. they have also division on ul. Św. Marcin 46/50, and ul. Ratajczaka 44 Local government Poznań City Hall H-3, Pl. Kolegiacki 17, tel. 061 878 52 00, www.poznan.pl. Ryszard Grobelny mayor 061 878 55 06. Department of Information and Development: 61 878 56 95. Department of Culture and Art: 0601 878 54 55. Department of Sports, Recreation and Tourism: 061 878 53 51. Places of worship Muslim Culture & Recreation Centre (Muzułmańskie Centrum Kulturalno-Oświatowe) ul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Wilda), tel. 0 507 75 43 01, www. islam.org.pl. Q Services on Fridays at 13:00. poznan.inyourpocket.com Private clinics Klinika Grunwaldzka E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel. 061 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl. Luxmed E-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. 061 845 11 11, www.luxmed.pl. Real estate Ewa Tracz ul. Chełmońskiego 22 (Grunwald), tel. 061 866 21 33. Sale, purchase and hire. Global Invest ul. Powidzka 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 879 48 48, www.globalinvestpoland.com. Mamdom , www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polands largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands of real estate offers from estate agents, private individuals, government organisations and companies. Every single offer has at least one image and the descriptions are all translated into English by a native speaker, not a computer. You can choose to deal directly with the sellers (who often speak English) or make use of interpretors, drivers, and other services. Mamdom charges no commission on any property purchases. Relocation companies Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www. corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent storage facilities and relocations to and within Europe. Office and local moves also handled. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Universal Express Worldwide Movers C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9, tel. 061 896 15 02, www.uer.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July - October 2009 89 NH Poznań Fusion Cinnamon Domina Residence Brovaria Stare Miasto Frolic Goats Sheraton Poznan NH Poznań Blow Up Hall 96 STREET REGISTER 23 Lutego B/C-1 27 Grudnia B-2 3 Maja B-1/2 Al. Armii Poznań G-1/2 Al. Cytadelowiczów G-1 Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2 Al. Niepodległości A-1/3 Al. Republik H-1 Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2 Barzyńskiego E/F-2 Bastionowa G-1 Berdychowo I-4 Bnińska K-2/3 Bolesława Krzywoustego H/I-5 Brandstaettera H-1 Bukowska E-3/4 Bydgoska J-2/3 Cegielskiego H-4 Chopina F-2/3 Chwiałkowskiego F/G-5 Cicha F/G-2 Czartoria H/I-3 Długa C/D-3 Dominikańska D-1 Dożynkowa G-1 Droga Dębińska H-5 Drzewna F-4/5 Drzymały E/F-1 Dworcowa E/F-4 Działowa G-2 Działyńskich B-1 Dziekańska I-2/3 Ewangelicka H-3/H/I-4 Filipińska I/J-3 Franciszkańska C-2 Fredry A-1/2 Gajowa E-3 Garbary D-1/2 Garncarska A-2 gen. Dąbrowskiego E-3 gen. Maczka F-1 Głogowska E-4/5 Główna J-1/2/K-1 Gołębia C/D-2 Góra Przemysła C-1/2 Górna Wilda F/G-5 Graniczna E-5 Grobla D-2 Grochowe Łąki G-2/3 Grudzieniec E/F-2 Grunwaldzka E-3/4 Gwarna A-2 Inflancka K-5 Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4 Jaskółcza C-2 Jeżycka E-2 Kaliska J-4 Kanałowa E-5 Kantaka B-2 kard. Wyszyńskiego I-3 Katowicka J-4/5 Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4 Klasztorna D-2 Kochanowskiego E-2/3 Poznań In Your Pocket Kopernika G-4 Koronkarska J-2 Kościuszki A/B-1/2/3 Kozia C/D-2 Kórnicka I-4/5/I/J-5 Krakowska G-4 Kramarska C/D-1 Krasińskiego E/F-3 Kraszewskiego E-3 Królowej Jadwigi G-4/5 Krysiewicza C-3 ks. Posadzego I-3 ks. Wujka F-5 Księcia Józefa G-2 Ku Cytadeli H-2 Kurpiowska F-2 Kurza Noga C-2 Kwiatowa G-4 Libelta A/B-1 Lubrańskiego I-2/3 Ludgardy C-2 Łady E-2 Łaskarza J-3 Łazienna H-3/4 Łąkowa G-4 Łucznicza I-5 Majakowskiego J/K-4 Małachowskiego J-2 Małe Garbary D-1 Małeckiego E-5 Małopolska E-1 Mansfelda E-2/3 Mariacka K-1 Masztalarska C-1 Mazowiecka E-1 Mączna E-2 Mickiewicza E-3 Mielżyńskiego B-1 Młyńska B-1 Mokra D-1 Mostowa D-2 Murna C-2 Muśnickiego D-3 Mylna E-2 Na Podgórniku G/H-2 Na Szańcach H/I-1 Nad Bogdanką E-2 Nad Wierzbakiem E-1 Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5 Noskowskiego F-2/3 Nowowiejskiego B-1/2 Ogrodowa C-3 Ostrów Tumski I-3 Ostrówek I-3 Owsiana F/G-1 Paderewskiego C-2 Panny Marii I-2/3 Pasaż Apollo G-4 Piaskowa H-3 Piastowska H-5 Piekary B-3 Pl. Andersa G-4 Pl. Wolności B/C-2 Podgórna C/D-2/3 Podolska E-1 LISTINGS INDEX Podwale Powstańców Wielkopolskich Poznańska Północna Półwiejska Prużańska Przemysłowa Przepadek Przystań Pszenna Pułaskiego Ratajczaka Ratuszowa Roosevelta Rybaki Rynkowa Serafitek Sienkiewicza Sieroca Składowa Skośna Sochaczewska Sokoła Solna Sowia Spadzista Stary Rynek Stawna Strusia Strzałkowskiego Strzałowa Strzelecka Szelągowska Szewska Szkolna Szymańskiego Śląska Ślusarska Śródka św. Czesława św. Jacka J-2/3 A-3 E-2 H-2 C-3 K-5 F-5 G-2 I-4 G-1 F-2 B-2/3 C-2 E/F-3 C-3 C-1/2 I-4/5 E-3 C-2 A-3 F-3 F-1 E-1 G-3 J-5 G-5 C/D-2 D-1 E-5 E-2/3 C-3 C-3 I-1 D-1 C-2 C-3 E-1 D-2 I/J-3 F/G-5 I-3 św. Marcin A/B-2/3 św. Marii Magdaleny D-3 św. Michała J/K-3 św. Wawrzyńca E-2 św. Wojciech G-3 Święcickiego E-4 Świętojańska J-3 Świętosławska D-2 Święty Marcin F/G-3 Taczaka A/B-3 Taylora A-2/3 Topolowa H/I-3 Warszawska J-3 Wąska E-2 Wenecjańska H-3 Weteranów I-5 Wielka D-2 Wieniawskiego A-1 Wierzbięcice F-5 Wierzbowa H-4 Wieżowa I-3 Winogrady G-1 Wodna D-2 Wojska Polskiego E-1 Wolnica C-1 Wołyńska E-1 Woźna D-2 Wrocławska C-2 Wroniecka D-1 Wszystkich Świętych D-3 Wysoka B/C-3 Za Bramką D-3 Za Cytadelą G/H-1 Zachodnia E-4/5 Zagórze I-3 Zamkowa C-1 Zdrojowa K-3 Zeylanda E-3 Zielona D-3 Żniwna G-1 Żydowska D-1 Alex Webber poznan.inyourpocket.com Academic Pub 54 Adalbertus 78 Agawa 54 Alexander 40 Ali Baba 40, 48 Applied Arts Museum 69 Aquatic 87 Archdiocese Museum 69 Archeological Museum 69 Artemis 39 Astra 30 Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski 69 Atmosfera 52 AWO 78 Azalia 37 Bamberka 48 Barcode 54 Batory 35 Bażanciarnia 38 Bee 62 Bee Jay's 40, 54 Behemot 52 Bernardino Ristorante 44 Biskupin 76 Blow Up Hall 26, 49, 54 Blueberry bar 54 Blue Note Jazz Club 54 Bodega Cafe 54 Bogota 54 Brogans Irish Pub 54 Brovaria 26, 40, 54 Browar Pub 54 Buddha Bar 39, 54 By The Way Hostel 34 Cacao Republika 52 Cactus Factoria 55 Cafe Bordo 52 Café Plotka 55 Cafe Sekret 52 Caffe Ławka 52 Campanile 30 Canappka 48 Casinos Poland 86 Cathedral 67 Celtic 55 Centrum Fitness Olymp 87 Česká Hospoda 37 Cinnamon 34 Citadel Park 74 CitiSPA 87 City Information Centre 72 City Park Residence 26 Cocorico 52 Corcovado 41 Corner Pub 55 Corpus Christi Church 67 Coxy's 55 Cuba Libre 62 Cute 62 Cymes 47 Czarna Owca 62 poznan.inyourpocket.com Czekolada 52, 62 Czerwone Sombrero 47 Czerwony Fortepian 55 Da Luigi 44 Dark Restaurant 41 Déja Vu Café 55 Delicja 35, 38 Derby 30 Deserovnia 41, 56 Domina Poznań Residence 27 Dominican Church 67 Dom Vikingów 38 Dorrian 30 Dracula Pub 79 Dragon 56 Dramat 49 Dwór w Podstolicach 35 Emforiu 62 Environment Museum 69 Eskulap 56 Estadio Sports Bar & Restaurant 56 Estella 48 Euro Hotel Swarzędz 36 Fancy House 34 Fashion Cafe 56 F.B.I Poznan 56 Feniks 30 Fever 57 Figaro 38 Filigrando Cafe & Lunch 52 Fontanna Czekolady 57 Fort Colomb 57 Franciscan Church 67 Frolic Goats Hostel 35 Fusion Hostel 35 Fusion Restaurant 39, 41 Gaja 30 Getting there 82 Gewert 78 Girasole 44 Glob-Tour 72 Gold 33 Golf Club Bytkowo 87 Green Hotel 36 Gromada 30 Henlex 31 Historical Museum of Poznań 70 Holy Trinity Church 80 Hostel Poznań 35 Hotel 222 31 Hot_elarnia 36 Hotel Księcia Józefa 33 Hotel Pietrak 79 Hotel System Premium 31 Hotel Włoski 31 HP Park 27 IBB Andersia Hotel 27 Ibis 31 Ikar 31 Imaret 41 In Flagranti 42, 57 IQ 62 Johnny Rocker 57 June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum 70 Kamea 57 Kawka 52 KFC 48 Kisielice 57 Klepsydra 58 Klub 65 37 Klub Charyzma 62 Klub Galeria Shisha 58 Klub Zak 58 Kórnik 82 Kórnik Castle 83 Kresowa 49 Kruszwica 76 Kultowa 58 Kyokai Sushi Bar 46 La Rambla Tapas Bar i Wino 58 La Scala 44 Le Bistrot 42 Lech 32, 78 Lech Visitors Centre 74 Le Palais du Jardin 38 Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz 70 Lizard King 42, 58 Lobby Bar 58 Lokanta 42 Londoner Pub 59 Madagaskar 42 Magnum 86 Malibu Bar 59 Markowa Knajpka 49 Massimiliano Ferre 44 Mat's 28 McDonald's 48 Medical Vocational School Boarding House 78 Mercure Poznań 28 Meridian 32 Metropolitan Club 63 Mielzynski Wine Bar 59 Milano Ristorante 46 Military Weapon Museum 71 Mini Golf Malta Ski 87 Mini Hotelik 33 Młyńskie Koło 32, 49 Mollini 46 Mood 42, 59 Mosaica 42 Motoring Museum 71 Muchos Patatos 59 Museum of Gniezno Archdiocese 80 Musical Instruments Museum 71 Alex Webber July - October 2009 97 98 LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX Naramowice 33 National Museum 71 New Zoo 87 NH Poznań 28 Niku 87 Niku Fitness & Squash 86 Niku Restauracja 37 Novotel Poznań Centrum 28 Novotel Poznań Malta 28 Oaza 49 Old Town Hall 74 Old Zoo 87 Olimpia 32 Orbis Casino 86 OSL Oborniki 86 Ośrodek Przywodny Rataje 86 Ossowski 36 Ostrów Lednicki 76 Paintball Fort Dębiec 87 Pałac Wasowo 36 Panorama 38 Papavero 43 Parish Church of St. Stanislaus 67 Patio 39 Pekin 37 Pharmaceutical Museum 71 Piano Bar 59 Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe 46 Pietrak 78 Pireus 39 Piwnica 21 60 Pizza Hut 48 Pizzeria Rozmaitości 46 Plac Zabaw-Malta Ski 87 Pod Aniołem 50 Pod Dzwonkiem 50 Pod Koziołkami 50 Pod Minogą 60 Pod Pretekstem 53 Pod Złotą Jabłonią 50 Polonez 32 Pomarańcza 53 Pomorski 34 Post Dali 60 Post-Office Cafe 53 Pożegnanie z Afryką 52 Poznań Army Museum 72 Poznan Bamber Museum 72 Poznań Model 74 Pracownia 39 Prisoner of War Camps Museum 70 PRL 60 Proletaryat 60 Pub 79 Pub Cafe 80 Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe 60 Ratuszova 50 Ratuszowa 79 Ready's 79 Recreation Center Niku 86 Poznań In Your Pocket Red Eric Cafe 63 Red Erik Café 53 Reeta's Haveli 40 Residence & Workshop of Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna 72 Restauracja Polska 79 Restauracja Zapadnia 43 Restaurant de Rome 43 Rezydencja Solei 32 Ristorante Italiano 79 Rodeo Drive 37 Room 55 43, 61 Rooster 37 Roti 48 Royal 28 Rzymianka 43 Rzymski 32 Sakana Sushi Bar 46 Sami Swoi 61 Samui Hair Beauty 87 Sansibar 63 Sarp 61 Shark 61 Sheraton Poznań Hotel 29 Sioux City 37, 48 Sioux Classic 37 Soho 53 Sól i Pieprz 43 SomePlace Else 37, 61 Sonata 43 Spagetheria 48 Spalarnia 87 Sphinx 48, 79 Sport Hotel 34 SQ 63 Stacja Cafe 53 St. Adalbert`s Church 68 Stare Miasto 29 St. Francis of Assissi Church 68 St. John of Jerusalem Church 68 St. Joseph`s Church 68 St. Martin`s Church 68 Strzelno 76 Sushi 77 46 Sushi Sekai 46 Tapas 63 Tapas Bar 51 Taste Barcelona 51 Tawerna Grecka Mykonos 39 Terytorium 63 The Arboretum 83 The Castle 75 The Dubliner 61 The Fire Place Lounge 61 The Gniezno Cathedral 81 The Mexican 47 The Museum of the Origins of the Polish State 80 The Old Town Square 75 Tivoli 48 Toboggon Run (Letni Tor Saneczkowy Malta Ski) 86 Tokyo Underground 63 Tourist Information Centre 72, 81 Trawiński 29 Trygon 87 Trzemeszno 76 T&T 33 U Honzika 62 Umberto 53 U Mnie Czy u Ciebie 44 Valpolicella 46 Villa Magnolia Ristorante 46 Vivaldi 29 Warung Bali 40 Wejście Obok 44 Wenecja 76 Whisky Bar 62 Wiejskie Jadło 50 Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum 72 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 73 Wielkopolska Military Museum 73 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 73 Worldkarts 86 W Starym Kinie 62 Wylatowo 76 W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda 50 Zagroda Bamberska 33, 38 Za Kulisami 62 Zielony Smok 37 Złoty Smok 79 Features index 1956 Uprising Bazar Hotel City Card Climate Communist Poznań Eating at a Glance Enigma Ghosts Hindenburg Ignacy Jan Paderewski Jewish Poznań Krsysztof Komeda Language Smarts Lech Visitors Centre Local Football Lodgings at a Glance Lost Poznań Made in Poland - Maluch Made in Poland - Syrena Mail & Phones Malta Market Values Meet the locals Meteors Monuments of Poznań Napoleon’s Poznań National holidays Night at a glance On the trams Ostrów Tumski Quick Currency Convertor Quick Eats Stary Marych The Bambergers The Birth of Poland The facts The Goats The Great Escape The Polish Dwarf The Wielkopolska Uprising Tourist Trails of Poznań Train smarts UFOs What's Hot, What's Not WWII Poznań 65 68 12 17 6 38 53 51 56 45 69 57 18 74 31 26 58 59 47 15 60 17 87 44 71 73 19 55 27 67 19 48 68 72 80 17 72 70 36 64 8 16 50 34 75 poznan.inyourpocket.com
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