tourist info - Use It Warsaw
Transkrypt
tourist info - Use It Warsaw
> `\ `e `h d\ R CR Uk j^ Zć d\ R MOSCOW =fS V]d \R D`\ `]R @Sc`ćTÜh 93 Paryska KhjTZĆkTÜh 100 THE PLACE TO B 7RScjTk_ R >`de 2X cj\ `]R 4K6C?:2<@H D<2 R] Dk fT YR a Sask 7cR_Tfd\R > `\ `e `h d\ R 90 7cR_Tfd\R A`dV]d\R <Re`hZT\R \R 5ĀSc`hZVT ĄD<: 5KJDKJ H2>:ă Lw ow ska >Zćd\R 8C@ 49@ HD <2 88 <c`\`Uj] HR]V Tk_j TY D@=64 CV\ e`cd \R K2> @JD <:6 8@ 2=K:6=6?:64<2 Pia sk ow a @< @A @H 2 Eh Rc UR 87 ]VT D` <`ý^Zć d\R The most pleasant way to experience Chopin's music is to attend a (free!) OPEN-AIR PIANO CONCERT AT THE CHOPIN MONUMENT, May to August, every Sunday at 12 and 4 p.m. \R Vhd cjdk D\R 8Üc_`ü]Ād\R >jü]ZhZVT\R 97 FREE CHOPIN CONCERT 83 e`_R dkj_X `HR C`_U 2=H2DKJ?8E@?2 d\R `h R\ c_Z 4kV <ck jh ZT\ZV X` VāV \ZV Sck hd Hjfdk\` üTZ <` VT ka iVT w ;RkUÜh Hidden behind the sleek German and French embassies you will find a bit of Scandinavian countryside right in the middle of the city. It is a colony of ca. 30 temporary wooden houses built along Jazdów street in 1945 for construction workers rebuilding the ruined city. They came from Finland via Soviet Union, were supposed to last for 5 years but somehow stayed, making up a beautiful and calm neighbourhood in the heart of the city. <RhĆ 91 Rk ZV_\ `hd \R 3RX ReV]R 96 UN-FINNISH SYMPATHY DZVU]VT\R >yü ]i 97 8RcUV_GZ]]R 10 <`cdR\R K2> @JD <:6 8@ 89 2=2C>::=F5@H6; 95 8 86 _R =fU rat Rozb R]?RD\Rca ZV <`_`a_ZT \ZV[ ;`Y_R =V__ `_R A] RT ? RC `k Uc `ā f 82 6 ra Dob ] o D` iVX sk ow Tzk <ru @\Ü]_Z\ \R HZV[d Art lovers cannot miss the Center of Contemporary Art (CSW). In the baroque Ujazdowski Castle (Zamek Ujazdowski) you will find shows of international and Polish artists, a decent permanent collection, a bookshop, the Kino.Lab arthouse cinema, a cosy café and the artsy yet pricey Qchnia Artystyczna restaurant with stunning views over the park. If you can’t be bothered to go in, at least check out the stone benches adorned by the American artist Jenny Holzer, in the alley leading to the main entrance. Open Tue-Sun 11-19, Fridays till 21, closed Mondays, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on Thursdays. Address: ul. Jazdów 2 K` ]Z 85 \R ER^ E`aZV] 4ZTYR <`aVc_Z\R <`aVc_Z\R 8RTkjćd\ZVX` IN A BAROQUE CASTLE 96 4 <2 HD <:;@ <:6 ĄD 64: K4K 6D K6ÿ 3C HJ sła 3c`hRc_R DVhVcj_Üh ?@HJúH :2E 95 CONTEMPORARY ART A]RT F_ZZ =fS V]d\ ZV[ =Z eV h d\ R 81 R >Rc\`hd\ 84 2 @H C8 E2 d\R VdZć Hck X` d\ZV R\`h DZVc ` d\ZVX `e`h <`a >ReV[\ Z 4Y`aZ_ R 2=6;6F ;2K5@H D<:6 Founded in the 18th century as the king's private suburban pleasuredome, Łazienki (literally ‘the Bathhouse’) Park is one of Warsaw's top tourist attractions. A long lake, several palaces, a fake ruin of an amphitheatre, two greenhouses plus a flock of peacocks strolling around all add to its charm. You can even take a ride on the lake in a gondola in the summer (only 6 zł/person). Beware of overpriced cafés. The park is crowded on weekends, nice and quiet on weekdays, open daily from dawn till dusk, no cycling allowed. Prusa 2 KĀS\`hd\R TkR KR[Ć <dZĀāĆTR R A] RT ]Hjkh `]V_ KS ZR Rh ZTZ V]R =Vdk`hR \R de`T 3ZR` >`de A`_ZRe`hd\ZVX` A]RT EckV TY< ckjā j 100 101 A`]ZeVTY_Z\R 94 THE ROYAL PARK 98 0 R Vd\ 3ck ćd\R AR_ZV Wi R Rćd\ 7fc^ <R2<@HS<:6PRK6D>:6úC:6 <`d kj\ `h R \ZTY UVT ú_ZR TEN MINUTES WALK ERcTY`^Zćd\R 80 e >`d ckjd\Z e`\ ZĆ h ú T\R 3cR ?`h `hZV [d\R AZĆ\_R A]RT<`_dejefT[Z aRT\R <`_` \R Vcd j_Z :_ā `hR ERcX 75 79 ćd\R HZ]V \R ]`ćd ;RXZV \R [Rćd ZĆe` úh _R AZh A`UhR]V D<:6 6ÿ696= HJ3CK ĄD<:6 6852 CK6ÿ HJ3 ra Sta 6 sa Vr a_ to Ackjcj_V\ R 7cVe 4kRT\ZVX` EFES probably has the best kebab in town. Buy it at the take away counter or don't risk soiling your clothes and dine in. Address: al. Niepodległości 80 7`\dR] 36=H 656C D<2 93 EFES? OH YES! _R 5cVh_ZR ?ReYR_d}dGZ]]R 99 During World War II people in Warsaw needed a lot of prayer so they started to build private shrines near their houses. You can spot a statue of Virgin Mary or Jesus Christ in many courtyards, that is a sign that the building was built before the war. This shrine is a rarity – situated not in the courtyard but in the street in the usual place of a corner shop entrance. Colourful, kitschy, suspiciously Latino-looking, often adorned with candles and flowers by local ladies, it is the essence of Polish folk catholicism. @ú4: 2C? @=:5 D = 2 76 74 77 78 92 R `h j\ dk <` Saska Kępa is Praga’s younger and prettier sister – a chic modernist neighbourhood planned in the 1920s. Kępa Cafe (ul. Finlandzka 12a, open daily 10-22) is its new favourite watering hole and a local cultural centre. <cfTkR 92 KĘPA CAFE a szow Ratu }R f]]V V8R 5 ` U C`_ HdaÜ]_R >RcdkR\`hd\R As sick as it sounds, some of the best pastry in town can be found in a former toilet. Try one of the excellent cakes at MISIANKA and you’ll forget and forgive the past. DkaZeR]_R 102 AZĆ\_R _R A`] 91 TOILET SWEET TOILET R wa RU uszo `a Rat Zde DeR]`hR = "" D^`]_R HZ]TkR YOUR BOAT There's something for everyone in Park Skaryszewski – one of the biggest and most beautiful parks in the city. Landscaped to resemble different parts of Poland – from lowlands and lakes to rocky mountains. Admire art deco sculptures, rent a pedal boat or a regular one (by the restaurant U Pstrąga) and enjoy the sweet smell from the Wedel chocolate factory across the water. >2CDK2<@HD<2 90 WHATEVER FLOATS <`d kj\ `h R H2CJĄD<:68@ Opened in 1955, STADION DZIESIĘCIOLECIA used to be the largest and the most prestigious sports venue in Poland. Around 1990 the crumbling icon changed hands and got turned into a huge market catering to the poorer population of the whole region, selling everything from pirate cds and fake designer bags to exotic food and guns. Most of the vendours came from the former Soviet Union or even farther eastern countries. It was also the centre of the Vietnamese community in Warsaw - the largest ethnic minority. The old stadium and most of the market had to be removed in 2008 to make way for the new National Stadium, but you can still get the taste of the market in the remaining section, next to the Warszawa Stadion bus station. Afficionados come here to taste Vietnamese soup. 103 A`k_Rćd\R This one is hard to get to, but worth the struggle! The Vietnamese make up 1% of Warsaw's population – the biggest ethnic minority in an otherwise Polish city. Their presence is hardly discernable, spare for some streets and neighbourhoods where they live and convene. In the courtyard of the Thang Long cultural centre (ul. Zamoyskiego 4) you can see one of the most bizarre traces of the Vietnamese community – a miniature copy of a pagoda in Hanoi. Address: ul. Zamoyskiego 4 H2H 6=D< 2 9`āR _R A`] 89 STADIUM TURNED MARKET ;f^a:__ HdaÜ]_R X` d\ZV \`h ?`R 86 PAGODA 7Z]ec `hR To the airport 492F3:ĄD<:68@ You can now find a Wedel chocolate shop in every major Polish shopping centre but this one is different since it sits right next to the actual Wedel factory. Address: ul. Zamoyskiego 28/30 104 CV[R =Za`hR 3Rc e`d kVh ZTkR HZU`\ ÿfcRhZR 7Z]e c`h R 8Ücd\ZVX` 82 STREET SHRINE HZü]R_R @S`ý_R E2><2 Housed on the site of Koneser vodka factory, MAGAZYN PRAGA sells the best of young Polish design plus some paintings and photography by local artists. Also in the factory area: LUKSFERA photography gallery. Open: Tue-Fri 12-20, Sat-Sun 11-18, closed Mon. Address: ul. Ząbkowska 27/31 (entrance through the factory gate) The streets Stalowa, Konopacka and Mała in the run-down Praga district are probably the closest to what the poor parts of Warsaw used to look like, escaping war demolition, post-war reconstruction and recent gentrification. No wonder they were used by the director Roman Polański as a set for his Oscar-winning film The Pianist. VZ @\ck CRU_R @cUj_RT\R 81 DESIGN FROM POLAND 79 THE HOLLYWOOD GHETTO 73 R <Rc`h 4Y^ZV]_R ?`h`Xc`Uk\R 2 = ? :6A@ 5=68 @ú4 : 88 CHOCOLATE FACTORY SHOP KX `U R Standing in front of Warszawa Wileńska shopping centre you can trick yourself into thinking you're in Russia. This is the point where trains from Petersburg used to arrive and that's why a huge orthodox church was built here – to ease the culture shock for travellers from Russia, apparently. The Petersburg station does not operate any more but in 1945 a Soviet Army monument was erected in front of the church, so now the place looks even more Russian. C`_U` 5^`h d\ZVX` @Tk\Z @_UcRdk\R MURRR (or the Walll) gallery is the latest addition to Warsaw's street art scene. Every now and then a different artist takes over the 24-metre wall dividing Wedel chocolate factory from Powszechny Theatre, adding a bit of colour to the otherwise grim neighbourhood. Address: ul. Zamoyskiego 24/26 >Rk` hZVT\ R 6A]ReVc =Z_U]VjR H2H 6=D< 2 <ckjT \ZVX` ki aT Y_ iV >oT sk _ow a i > R `h Z`U > R `h kS ZVc H ÿV]Rk_R K`eR ?`h`Xc`Uk\R \R ]V 5R \R Vd ck `S R 3Z T mi 2kaUV HRcVT\R DZV_\ZVhZTkR DZV__R 4V_ecf^ \R ćd kj cT R E 105 ;Rd_R >ZVUkZR_R H2 E@H2C@ R DaZd\ A]RT?Rcfe`hZTkR R T\ _Z Z_ H 87 THE WALLL Bar ska <R]Zd\ R R ZT\ ]Zh ü Ć Tk Dk 2 4< ;6 ¼ 8C ;`eV j\Z \R Z_ZRcd ?`h R d\ Rć V] 3Z X` \ZV hd c` ĀS 5 RT A] <`cTk R\R >`_Zfdk\Z 2=6;6;6C@K@=:>D<:6 ?ZV ^T Vh ZTk R EcRfXfeeR úhZĆe`\ckjd\R A]R TK Rh Zdkj D<:6 2=;6C@K@=:> \R cReVcd 3`_ZW HR`h R A]RT AZd fUd\ ZVX` ú]Zd\R 76 FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE e >`d c`hd\Z ĀS \`5 ú]Ād 72 ARćd\R <`]V[`hR For the ultimate communist milk bar experience visit RUSAŁKA on the corner, right next to St. Florian Cathedral. Address: ul. Floriańska 14 3VU_Rcd\R úH:ăE@<CKJD<2 K`eR 75 MILK BAR >ar iV_sztat ]_j VRecR A]RTE Beehive of activity in the heart of the so-called BERMUDA TRIANGLE area (nick-named earned for the way cars, phones and handbags tend to disappear here). An alternative culture and entertainment centre in a run-down building is home to clubs & pubs (SATURATOR, ZWIąż MNIE, SKłAD BUTELEK, HYDROZAGADKA), TEATR ACADEMIA and the street art gallery VIURO. Busy also on weeknights. And don't worry about the bad reputation of the Bermuda Triangle, it's ok so long as you don't act in a provocative way or don't show off your fancy new phone in the street. Right next to the bus stop you can notice bears in action all year round - a living advertisement for the nearby zoo. 69 71 AcÜā_R R EhRcU C`_ U`@ ?K AC@DE2 70 R <cÜ]Vhd\ A]RT8ckjS `hd\Z AVcVTR <R_`_ZR 68 R fX 5 DV_Re`cd\R 8ckjS`hd\R HR]ZTÜh Hc`_ZR Ackj` \`a` hR <Rc`]\` hR fT\R ą 3`]Vü A]3R_ \`hj 8cR_ZTk_R HR]ZTÜh 8ckjS`hd\R ` \ZVX jćd Rdk 5 ` U C`_ 64 67 78 11 LISTOPADA 22 74 THE BEARS >ZRdeR `hVX` Cj_V\? XR 5f CRefdk2cdV_R ;2?2A2H2:: <c`TY^R]_R 57 KR\c`Tkj^d\R 86?2 ?56CD 2 63 a]>Zc`hd\Z 4Y`U_R 66 65 cR]_R 6]V\e` 4Y^ZV]_R <2 ĄD A: <@ WHAT’S ON TODAY? A`\`c_R KR^V_Y`WR 59 3ZRR Hc`_ZR E@H2C@H 2 ÿV]Rk_R DeRdkZTR <`]V[`hR 62 61 ZV ?`h`]Za 9cfSZVdk`h d\R DkRcj TYDk VcVXÜ h Dubois \Z ?`h`]Za 3V]]`eZVX` <Rc`]\`hR >j_Rcd\R HRhV]SVcXR DZVU^Z`Xc`Uk\R C`XR]Zćd\ R 85 BAZAR RÓŻYCKIEGO Come and witness the last days of the legendary open-air market in Praga which used to supply Warsaw with everything from potatoes to wedding dresses. To be redeveloped soon, so hurry up. Address: ul. Targowa 54 Supported by the City of Warsaw Jaktorowska Praga – the notorious working class 'hood – has been enjoying a bit of a revival lately. Some houses in Ząbkowska street were refurbished and became home to a range of bars: W Oparach Absurdu (ul. Ząbkowska 6), Czarny Motyl (ul. Ząbkowska 2), Łysy Pingwin (ul. Ząbkowska 11). At Klitka (ul. Ząbkowska 12) you can have a retro picture of yourself taken. A]<cRdZ_d\ZTY \Z ?`h`]Za @Xc`U`hR The first shop of the independent fashion brand GREEN ESTABLISHMENT founded by three young local designers. Doubles as a textile shop and an all-day hang out for the friends and the friends of the friends. Address: ul. Wileńska 13/46 \R k\Rćd 7cR_TZd úwiĆto [Vrska CITY CENTRE: SEE OTHER SIDE H`]d \R D\ZVc_ZVh ZT\R Design and Illustration: Dominik Cymer www.nobdepot.com Rafał Szczepaniak www.rafal-szczepaniak.com Photo: Artur Tondera 508 metres and 43 entrances. The legend has it that it was designed to conceal the crumbling buildings of old Praga from the sight of people arriving at the train station across the street. Nicknames include: Dachshund, Anthill, Tapeworm. Immortalised by the UK band Travis in their video Love Will Come Through (2003). Address: ul. Kijowska 11 Marta Zaręba decided to start AUĆ BELLA when she could not find a decent wedding dress. At her shop you can hunt down carefully selected pieces by up-andcoming designers from around the world. Address: ul. Ząbkowska 4 app. 43/44 Text: Grzegorz Piątek Editor: Bęc Zmiana Foundation www.funbec.eu IN WARSAW In December people prefer to stay sealed in department stores and shopping centres. The Christmas shopping frenzy lasts for about 6 weeks, ends with the last items of winter clothing two weeks into the new year. If the weather gets rough, you can explore the weatherproof side of Warsaw – its vast system of underground passages around the Central Railway Station. Unmissable: a cup of hot chocolate at Wedel’s (no. 31) For exhibitions: try to spot the quarterly bilingual 'What’s On In Warsaw’s Galleries', available in most art places, some cafés/bars and tourist information points. Tickets to concerts, theatre performances and major club events can be bought at Bileteria counters in Empik megastores (Rondo de Gaulle’a – near no. 38) and in Traffic megastore (no. 32). <2DA CK2< 2 83 LONGEST BUILDING 84 PASSION FOR FASHION CULTURE TRAM 2_ZV]V hZTkR ú4: :52C?@ 2=D@= =6DK?@ DĆ\ `TZć d\R WINTER Try to make sense out of the schedule published in the monthly guide 'Aktivist' (only in Polish, free, available in dozens of bars, clubs and cafés). A`T\R PARTIES HOSTEL =fU hZ\ Z ÿje_ ZR GOING OUT H@=D<2 a sk w so ko Ro June and July are the hottest months of the year. In the beginning of July EVERYBODY goes on holiday, and those who have to work use every opportunity to get out for weekends. Polish Army Day (August 15th) is the peak of the holiday season. Weather stays brilliant for most of the summer so it’s a great time if you want to walk and cycle a lot or just enjoy the parks and enjoy the riverfront! Swimming is not advised, but you can take advantage of our modest fleet and see the city from a 'water tram'. Unmissable: 4 a.m. breakfast at Szpilka (no. 87). The city fills back with people throughout September. Theatres start the new season towards the end of the month. In October classes start at universities and the cultural season kicks off for good. Unmissable: Warsaw Film Festival – a showcase for indie movies from all over the world (October, www.wff.pl); visit at the old Powązki cemetery on November 1st (no. 58). BAR METRO J 2 > KJ 8C SUMMER AUTUMN FOOD 8¼ C4 K6H D< 2 SHOP H `]_ `ü ą <RTkR You may ridicule the attempt to recreate the atmosphere of Ibiza in an Eastern European city but LA PLAYA beach club is worth checking out for the view of the city across the river. Come by for a drink at sunset. And don't dare to dip into the water. Address: ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5 5kZV]_R 5kZV]_R <RTkR The first ESCALATOR in Warsaw, opened in 1949 is no longer a wonder of technology but it’s worth seeing as a downscaled version of the lavish interiors of the Moscow metro. It was actually a gift from the Russian capital to Warsaw. Check out the piece of original machinery in the basement by the (free and clean!) public toilet and the Stalinist decor on the lower platform. The old, narrow and steep Bednarska street is favoured as a location by filmmakers. If these walls could talk, they'd give away a thousand plots. For lunch: excellent pierogi at the twin places PIEROGARNIA and CIEPłE KLUCHY (12 kzł for a serving, hot d \Z R_Xf 14 zł; opening soup: 3-5 zł, lunchDmenu: \R hours - cd Pierogarnia: 11-21, Ciepłe Kluchy: `_hZ\e` < 11-19). Address: ul. Bednarska 28/30 >fcR_`h d\R X` ZV d\ h e` Rc h =V D ub ois >ZR Pawia Pawia >ZcVT\ZVX` 3cj]`h d\R In March, when days get longer and temperature exceeds 10 degrees, life seems to speed up. This does not apply just to plants and animals but also to cultural and social life. May is perhaps the best time to visit Warsaw – to see the city at its warmest, greenest, most exciting. Warning – although Warsaw is the least religious city in Poland, avoid visiting around Easter – shops, restaurants, museums, practically everything is shut down for at least 3 days. Unmissable: lazy time in the green, studenty Powiśle area (see no. 46, 50, 52, 53, 56). CRS dke jćd \R BERLIN SPRING According to one of the employees, a child once walked into MURANÓW CINEMA and whined: But mom, I thought we were going to a cinema, not to a theatre… It sums up the atmosphere of the place most accuratly, preserved in its Stalinist glory. Interior decor aside, Muranów is a great arthouse cinema showing the best European and independent productions, conveniently placed next to the Ratusz Arsenał metro station. There’s also a small café and Celuloid, a shop for film lovers, selling DVDs, books, posters and memorabilia in the foyer. Cheapest tickets on Mondays. Check out the re-run programme in the summer to catch up on the films you missed during the preceding season. Address: ul. Gen. Andersa 1 HZVckj_\R ?Zd\R 60 2_ZV]VhZTkR <ckjāR _`hd\ ZVX` You can buy delicious Chopin chocolates and a bottle of Chopin vodka, both available in every respectable supermarket. The most unusual way to celebrate the composer’s genius is to buy a life-size, gilded, pocelain cast of his famous nose. 61 MOVIE / THEATRE 3V^ R SHOPPING FOR CHOPIN S R N U SO W A FOEA RS S F O A W In 2010 Warsaw celebrates the 200th anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth. The great composer and pianist was born in Żelazowa Wola, 50 km west of Warsaw, to a French father and a Polish mother. They moved to Warsaw soon after, where little Fryderyk started to take piano lessons. He gave his first public performance at the age of six and quickly gained notoriety among well-to-do citizens. As a teenager, Chopin drank a lot of coffee (Warsaw was rapidly developing its café scene) and chased girls, performed for important people (including the tsar of Russia), played the organ at the Visitation Sisters Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, one of very few landmarks that survived World War II intact), and still had the time to compose some brilliant music. Chopin left Warsaw for good in 1830 and never came back, not because he didn’t want to but because he couldn’t. We certainly hope you will have a great time here, like he did, but will come back one day! >ZR ÿjeSIGHTSEEING _ZR A`T\R CHOPIN’S WARSAW The vast green square, named after the German chancellor Willy Brandt who contributed to the reconciliation between Germans, Jews and Poles after WWII, is a must-see for anyone interested in Jewish culture and history. It represents the past – the monumental GHETTO HEROES MEMORIAL and the surrounding blocks have been built in the 1950s and 1960s directly on the site of the ruined Jewish neighbourhood. If you go south towards ul. Nowolipie, you will even notice buildings elevated above the street level on a layer of soil and rubble. Willy Brandt square also represents the future: it is the site of the new MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS, due in 2012. Before it becomes reality you can simply join the locals who like to walk their dogs and sunbathe on the site of the future museum. You can also take bus #180 or walk to the old JEWISH CEMETERY. DjcV_j You can catch a bus or tram in any direction (including 175) from Rondo Dmowskiego, a busy junction of two main avenues: Marszałkowska and Aleje Jerozolimskie. This is also where the biggest underground station, called Centrum, is located. 8cV_ RUj D`\``hd\ R Zielone Mazowsze (Green Mazovia) – ul. Nowogrodzka 46/6 60 FUTURE JEWISH CENTRE ?Zd\R D`ej\R 5kZRU`hd\ R Tamka – ul. Tamka 30 One of the most controversial buildings in KRh Warsaw, designed by Marek Budzyński (the Zdkj man who gave us the University Library, no. K` 56). SĄD NAJWYŻSZY (Supreme Court) TZV _Z is also green and with trees on top,R but this time the architect was accused of drawing inspiration from Nazi architecture. Make up your own mind. Ejdk\ZVhZTkR Szkolne Schronisko Młodzieżowe nr 2 – ul. Smolna 30 Free entrance on Thursday in two major contemporary art galleries: Zachęta (no. 24) and CSW (no. 95), on Saturday in National Museum (no. 40), on Sunday in Warsaw Rising Museum (no. 57), every day in the Museum of Modern Art (no. 8, Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej). Named simply VINTAGE this shop sells carefuly selected pieces of vintage clothing. Hard to spot - first find the gate behind KFC, enter the courtyard and head to the left. Address: al. Jana Pawła II 44 Stawki 80 ZĄBKOWSKA STREET STREET Stawki @\`a`hR Oki Doki – pl. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Dąbrowskiego Square not to be confused with Dąbrowskiego Street) Useful bus lines: 175 – links the airport, the Central Train Station, the city center and the Old Town area. 180 – links all major historical landmarks – from the Old Catholic and Jewish cemeteries in the north, via the former Jewish neighbourhood, Old Town, Royal Route, down to the former royal residence in Wilanów. With English signage. 100 – official tourist line winding around the city, including Praga and the Old Town Most museums and galleries are closed on Monday, except for the Warsaw Rising Museum (no. 57, closed Tuesday). 64 COURT OF GLASS R :_W]R_T\ 77 FASHION IN OLD PRAGA 72 PIEROGI IN A CHARMING 5h`ckVT8URćd\Z 58 73 FEELING BEACHY? St. Anne's church (kościół św. Anny) is one of the most popular wedding venues. It also offers a great view of the city and the Old Town from the belfry. Open 11 a.m.-6 p.m., extended til 9-10 p.m. in the summer depending on weather conditions, tickets 3/4 zł. Address: ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68 Dzika <`]d\ R 8ZSR]d\ZVX` New World Street Hostel – ul. Nowy Świat 27 MUSEUMS 59 VINTAGE CLOTHES DjcV_j Krokodyl – ul. Czapelska 24 Most of the night buses (11 p.m. to 5 a.m.) depart from the Central Train Station (Dworzec Centralny). www.warsawtour.pl www.e-warsaw.pl Da` \`[_ R D^`TkR Kanonia – ul. Jezuicka 2 Nathans's Villa - ul. Piękna 24/26 A@H þK< @H D<2 \R <Rc^V]ZT Jump Inn – ul. Prokuratorska 2 We have only one metro line but we’re proud of it, as it is one of the safest and cleanest in Europe (5 a.m. to 12 a.m., extended till 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights). Named in honour of Bernardo Bertolucci’s 1988 cult film, KINO PARADISO is the smallest and the most independent of Warsaw’s cinemas, hidden in an old palace lost on a traffic island. See your favourite Lynch or Jarmusch and other indie classics to the sound of trams passing by (open Tuesday-Sunday, tickets 5-13 zł). Address: al. Solidarności 62 70 TASTE OF MOSCOW METRO 71 VIEW OF THE OLD TOWN D@>:ĄD<:68@ H2:: ;2?2A2 Helvetia – ul. Kopernika 36/40, entrance from ul. Sewerynów 63 CINEMA PARADISO R `h `k @S Garden Villa – ul. Dolna 42 Old Town Market Square (Rynek Starego Miasta) 19/21a open daily: 9-20 (May-September) 9-18 (October-April) eRcd\R Old Town If you find yourself in theERtouristy and desperate for a cup of coffee, head straight to the only place respected by the locals – the miniature café TO LUBIĘ (I Like It), housed in the belfry of the Dominican church. Make sure to try baked apple with ice cream (jabłka zapiekane pod kruszonką, 12 zł, 20-minute wait). Address: ul. Freta 10 a Dzik HOSTELS Tickets may be bought at the newsagent’s (kiosk) and post offices, as well as machines (English menu available!) at metro stations and several central locations. 66 SWEET FAITH C2D KJĄ D<2 1 RUB = 0,1 ZŁ RYNEK STAREGO MIASTA is crowded with tourists and local families trying to have quality time together. Dead at night. Allow yourself ten minutes to look around, don't eat or drink (expensive) and go somewhere else. 2d _j \R 1 CZK = 0,16 ZŁ ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 65 (near Old Town) open daily: 9-20 (May-September) 9-18 (October-April) When approaching the Old Town, you will see a slender column topped with a statue of a man with a sword and a crucifix. The monument in Plac Zamkowy, popularly referred to as KOLUMNA ZYGMUNTA, is a token of gratitude to king Zygmunt III Waza who moved his seat from Cracow to Warsaw in 1596 starting the endless feud between the old and the new capital. After four centuries we are still a bunch of chancers and nouveau riche scum to the people in Cracow. Cracow, get over it! ska Burakow 1 GBP = 5,04 ZŁ In Poland, dying is an important part of life. Instead of celebrating Halloween, every year on November 1 we flock to cemeteries to visit the graves of our loved ones. Since half of the population in Warsaw weren’t even born here, a local twist on the tradition developed – we visit graves of celebrities at the old POWĄZKI CEMETERY. It’s a social occasion, with (living) celebrities fund-raising for the restoration of elaborate historic tomb stones and thousands of people strolling around til very late. Unforgettable. The old JEWISH CEMETERY (Cmentarz Żydowski) down Okopowa street is also worth a visit. 69 MOVER AND SHAKER 68 OLD MARKET SQUARE ;R_R@de c`XR Single ride / 40 min. ticket = 2,80 ZŁ 20 min. ticket = 2 ZŁ, 30 min. = 2,40 ZŁ 24-hour ticket = 9 ZŁ (3 and 7-day tickets also available) 1 CHF = 2,92 ZŁ 58 LIFE AFTER DEATH CR Xo dk jć d\ R 1 USD = 3,20 ZŁ Fryderyk Chopin Airport, Terminal 2 (Lotnisko Fryderyka Chopina) open daily: 8-20 (May-September) 8-18 (October-April) Given the amount of people who visit Warsaw to experience Jewish culture, it is incredible how hard it is to find a decent Jewish restaurant. POD SAMSONEM is really the only place worth recommending, their Jewish and Polish fare is delicious and affordable. Try goose necks (gęsi pipek) or hering and you’ll forgive the lazy service and the extra charges for toilet and cloak room. Packed in the evenings and on weekends, relatively empty during lunchtime on weekdays (main courses: 10-30 zł). Address: ul. Freta 3/5 ka 1 EUR = 4,44 ZŁ There is one ticket system for trams, metro, buses and local trains within city limits. There are several classic milk bars in the centre, all combining great prices, good food with the thrill of sharing a table with a smelly bum. BARBAKAN (named after the medieval gate to the Old Town) stands out because it is the only one where Dalai Lama popped by for a glass of milk. It also boasts a pleasant summer terrace. Address: ul. Mostowa 27/29 VX o 1 ZŁOTY = 0,22 EUR = 0,31 USD Central Train Station (Dworzec Centralny), main hall open daily: 8-20 (May-September) 8-18 (October-April) MILK BAR RESTAURANT Take a wobbly lift to the top floor of a 1960s housing block and go back 40 years in time. INSTYTUT AWANGARDY is the former rooftop studio of the conceptual artist Edward Krasiński who lived a very avant-garde life there together with his bohemian friends. The apartment was completely preserved after his death – only dust is being removed. In 2007 a glass exhibition pavilion was added on the terrace, designed by Dutch architecture’s bright new hope, BAR Architects. Climb up to the roof of the pavilion, used for film screenings in the summer, for a breathtaking view of the Old Town on one side and the modern city on the other. Open Thu-Fri, 10-14 + on special occasions. Address: al. Solidarności 64 app. 118 Ack j` \` a` hR MONEY TOURIST INFO CENTERS The WARSAW RISING MUSEUM is the most popular in the city. It tells the tragic story of Warsaw and its citizens in World War II, focusing on the 1944 uprising against Germans. Check out the murals painted by modern Polish artists in the memorial garden. Allow about 2 hours to see everything. Entrance from ul. Przyokopowa, open: Mon, Wed, Fri 8-18, Thu 8-20, Sat-Sun 10-18, closed Tue, tickets: 4/2 zł. Address: ul. Grzybowska 79 67 DALAI LAMA’S FAVOURITE 65 POLISH-JEWISH A`T\ R PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Warsaw is not easy to travel on foot or on a bike. Bad pavements, cars parking everywhere, rude drivers, inconvenient underground passages, long distances: all this means that it does make sense to use public transporation from time to time. 62 TOP ART ON TOP FLOOR 57 WARSAW SAW WAR 2X Rh j TOURIST INFO 101 COFFEE KARMA 94 Dk h` ]Vā VcÜ h 99 STALINIST CITY 98 HIP STREETS MOKOTOWSKA and KOSZYKOWA are fast becoming the hippest shopping streets in Warsaw. Highlights: Warszawska Nike (ul. Mokotowska 24 – vintage and collector’s Nikes displayed against black-and-white photos of 1960s Warsaw and a glass chandelier salvaged from a bankrupt communist restaurant), RS2 (ul. Koszykowa 24), Fumo (ul. Mokotowska 26), GaliLu (rare perfume in a beautiful, living-room-like interior) and DDR Studio (vintage furniture, ul. Mokotowska 31). RkZV_\`hd\Z PLAN.B seems to be plan B for the clientele of the perennially hip Coffee Karma across Plac Zbawiciela. Dark, messy, filled with smoke and a bit claustrophobic it has been extremely popular, but is rumoured to close in November 2009. Be sure to check it out before they get chucked out and don't forget to thank their neighbours. They have made a considerable effort to make Plan B disappear. Address: al. Wyzwolenia 18 Try to imagine what Warsaw would look like if the 1950s Stalinist regime had enough time and money to transform the city according to their taste. The MDM housing district, opened in 1952, served as a model for future development. Admire the grandiose housing blocks, dubbed 'palaces for workers', larger-than-life and genuinely scary statues of working class heroes, the "Four Seasons of Socialist Poland" mosaic decorations in the arcades along the main square (PLAC KONSTYTUCJI), and the 1960s neon sign with a volleyball player on the corner of ul. Koszykowa, restored in 2005 by the artist Paulina Ołowska. Karma is a leisurely café set in one of the most beautiful squares in Warsaw. Popular among students as well as actors from neighbouring theatres: Wspolczesny and TR. Elektra coffee (latte with honey and cinnamon) and smoothies named Pinky and Karmasutra are the specialty of the house, but there is also wine, sandwiches, salads and cakes. In the warmer months try to grab a table outside, with a view to the Saviour's Church to the right. Mon-Fri 7:30-22, Sat-Sun 10-22. Address: pl. Zbawiciela 3/5 102 OLD-SCHOOL SCHOOL The main building of POLITECHNIKA WARSZAWSKA (Warsaw Technical University) is one of the most unusual public buildings in Warsaw, owing to its grand inner courtyard modelled after renaissance palaces but much, much bigger. If you feel like mingling with future engineers, visit the cheap café on first floor. Address: pl. Politechniki 1 103 BAR HOPPING IN THE PARK POLE MOKOTOWSKIE (official name: Park Piłsudskiego) is a huge green area on the site of Warsaw's first airport. Popular with roller skaters and beer lovers alike, it was also Ryszard Kapuściński’s (famous Polish reporter and non-fiction writer) favourite place for long walks. On a warm day you can do a bit of bar hopping between the cheap pubs like ZIELONA GĘŚ or LOLEK scattered around the park. Very crowded on summer weekends. If you get hungry, pick up a grilled sausage (kiełbasa) in one of the bars or have lunch at the super cheap CAFETERIA IN THE NATIONAL LIBRARY (huge building, impossible to miss). 104 KOLONIA CAFÉ Relax at KOLONIA CAFÉ set up in a tiny house by two local young mothers for other locals who visit Park Wielkopolski across the street. Address: ul. bł. Władysława z Gielniowa 9/11 105 FILTER COFFEE CAFÉ FILTRY takes its name from the nearby waterworks, not from paper filters used for coffee machines. It is a charming café in the leafy neighbourhood of Ochota ran in a former laundry shop. Strictly non-smoking. Open: Monday-Friday 8-21, Saturday 10-21, Sunday 10-18. Address: ul. Niemcewicza 3