2 - W drodze przez Ameryki

4
More photographs from my journeys can be found on the internet:
http://Fabula.Art.PL/
[email protected]
1. Bolivia. Market in Tarabuco. Returning home
Many people go to and from the market on the back of
large trucks. Those squashed in the back swing to the
rhythm of the bumps in the road. All that matters is that
one can go wherever there are roads (and sometimes even
further). I don’t know how the local communications
system works, but during my journeys I never had to wait
more than 15 minutes for a bus or truck. Something
always came along that was going in a direction that
could interest me. The idea of a timetable in these parts
was a little exotic.
2
Wyjecha∏em bez dok∏adnego
planu i przygotowanego bezpiecznego powrotu. Ju˝
w Kolumbi by∏em 4 miesiàce „spóêniony” do wst´pnych przewidywaƒ, wymuszonych przez koniecznoÊç
wyrobienia wizy.
Spotka∏em na mojej drodze
ludzi z rozmaitymi receptami
na podró˝, a co za tym idzie –
z najró˝niejszymi powodami
do jej kontynuowania. Spotka∏em takich, którzy podró˝ujà, ˝eby surfowaç. Je˝d˝à
po Êwiecie ze specjalistycznymi przewodnikami po falach i pla˝ach oraz z kompletem desek. Pozna∏em innych, którzy najbardziej
cenià góry. Ci pos∏ugujà si´
w∏asnymi przewodnikami
i innym sprz´tem. Spotyka∏em naukowców prowadzàcych badania na wykopaliskach, w d˝ungli albo w ob-
serwatorium. Natknà∏em sie
na cz∏owieka podró˝ujàcego
z narkotycznà mapà kontynentu, którego tras´ wyznacza∏y ró˝ne „magiczne” substancje. Byli te˝ tacy, którzy
przyjechali dla kultury, j´zyka czy muzyki. Inni odbywali
ca∏à podró˝ wy∏àcznie na rowerze, motocyklu, pociàgiem... Spotka∏em goÊcia,
który szed∏ pieszo przez cztery i pó∏ roku od Alaski do Ziemi Ognistej. Sà dwutygodniowi turyÊci, jedno-, dwu-,
trzyletni w∏ócz´dzy oraz tacy,
którzy kiedyÊ wyjechali – na
dobre – i z najró˝niejszych
powodów od wielu lat sà
„poza domem”.
Prezentowane tu zdj´cia pochodzà z dwóch obszarów
kulturowych, zamieszkiwanych niegdyÊ przez Inków
i Majów. To miejsca, które
zrobi∏y na mnie najwi´ksze
I set off without a detailed plan or safe return prepared. In
Colombia, the need to get a visa made me 4 months ‘later’
than I had first expected. On my way I met people with various
‘recipes’ for travelling, and what goes with it - the various
reasons for continuing to travel. I met people who travel to
surf. They go around the world with specialist guide books on
waves and beaches and with a set surfing boards. I got to
know others who value mountains the most. They use their
own guide books and other equipment. I have met scientists
conducting research at excavation sites, in the jungle or the
conservatory. I bumped into a man travelling with a drug map
of the continent, whose route was guided by various ‘magic’
substances. There were also those who come for the culture,
language and music. Others made their journeys exclusively
on bicycles, motorbikes, trains... I met a guy who walked for
four and a half years from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego
(Patagonia). There are two-week tourists, one-, two-, threeyear tramps and those who once they have left - for good - for
various reasons stay away from ‘home’ for many years.
The photographs presented here come from two different
cultural areas once inhabited by the Incas and the Mayas.
Bolivia and Guatemala - although distant from each other are very alike. I found a similarity in people who live above
the clouds, in high mountain villages: in their faces, the
colors of their clothes, methods for cultivating land and
breeding animals and in their ideas for spending free time.
lato / summer 2004
3
wra˝enie podczas ponadrocznej podró˝y przez kraje
Ameryki ¸aciƒskiej. Boliwia
i Gwatemala – choç odleg∏e
– sà do siebie podobne. Podobieƒstwo znalaz∏em w ludziach ˝yjàcych ponad
chmurami – w wysokogórskich wioskach: w twarzach,
kolorach strojów, sposobach uprawy i hodowli oraz
w pomys∏ach na sp´dzanie
wolnego czasu.
Wi´cej zdj´ç z mojej
podro˝y mo˝na znaleêç
w internecie pod adresem:
http://Fabula.Art.PL/
Dzi´kuj´ za opracowanie
graficzne i prac´ nad tekstem
Kasi Aderek i Marysi
Fredro–Bonieckiej
[email protected]
1. Boliwia. Targ w Tarabuco. Powrót do domu
Wielu ludzi jedzie i wraca
z targu na pace ci´˝arówki.
St∏oczeni kiwajà si´ w rytm
wybojów na drodze. Wa˝ne,
˝e wsz´dzie gdzie jest droga, da si´ dojechaç. Nie
wiem, jak dzia∏a lokalna komunikacja, ale podczas mojej podró˝y nie zdarzy∏o mi
si´ czekaç d∏u˝ej ni˝ kwadrans na transport. Zawsze
coÊ akurat odje˝d˝a∏o w interesujàcà mnie stron´. Poj´cie rozk∏adu jazdy brzmi
tu doÊç egzotycznie.
2. Gwatemala. San Andres
Xequl. Targ
Tragiczna jest historia
ostatnich dziesi´cioleci dla
mieszkaƒców miejscowoÊci
indiaƒskich na zachodzie
2. Guatemala. San Andres Xequl. Market
The history of the local Indian inhabitants of western
Guatemala over the last few decades is a tragic one. It is
one of discrimination, uprisings and their merciless
repression at the start of the 1980s. The government of the
time ordered the killing of several dozen thousand Indians.
These events are somewhat reminiscent of a communist
tragedy. Of course the scale and the cultural context are
different. I talked with people and watched documentary
films. To today there is a climate of fear, caution and
discretion in talks which touch upon events from “those”
days.
3. Guatemala. San Gaspar Chajul not far from Nebaj. An
Indian woman at the market
The traditions and culture of Indian society in Guatemala
are rich and varied. People in villages centred on land
smaller than one of Poland’s voivodships communicate in
more than 20 languages. Unfortunately, however, there is a
lack of funds to keep such languages “alive” (by
developing dictionaries, study and other books etc..). The
Academy of Mayan Languages is trying to bring back the
various languages that have split off - reversing evolution by grouping them in several main languages. But it’s like
reversing the flow of a river.
lato / summer 2004