Poznan in Your Pocket

Transkrypt

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
POZNAŃ
July - October 2009
Socialist
Paradise
Traces of Commie
Poznan
Tourist Trails
City walks & historic
walls
N°23 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)
poznan.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2902
CONTENTS
Y OUR P ERFECT P LACE TO S TAY
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
3
Full contents of all our Poland
guides are now online:
www.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Arriving in Poznań
12
Getting around
13
Planes, trains & automobiles
The Basics
17
Surviving Poz
Culture & Events
20
This seasons highlights
Where to stay
26
Accommodation for all pockets
Restaurants
37
The highs and lows
Cafes
52
Nightlife
54
It’s done nothing but rain so far this summer, but don’t let
that stop you inspecting all the city has to offer. There’s
tourist trails aplenty, and a reliable umbrella is all that’s
necessary to survive a walk round the restored walls which
once kept invaders out. Read more on page 8.
Hedonists handbook
History
64
Sightseeing
EdocV²
171 rooms and apartments, exquisite cuisine
Banquet and conference rooms
Harmonia Wellness Club & Pool
Underground parking
What to see
The city inside out
66
The Piast Route
76
Castles of Wielkopolska
77
Gniezno
78
Kórnik
82
Leisure
86
Shopping
88
Directory
89
Maps & Index
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It’s 20 years since Poland left communism behind, and
in that time the locals have done a good job of razing
any reminders of this black period. Some have survived,
however, and we’ve gone deep in the field to bring you what
traces remain of Big Brother. See page 6.
City centre map
City map
Country map
Street index
Listings index
Feature index
91
92
94
96
97
98
July - October 2009
4
FOREWORD
A few years is a long time if you’re Poznan. Back
in the 18th century a thirty year spell brought
with it plague, siege, hurricanes and floods. Fast
forward a few hundred years and Poznan has
seen similarly drastic changes; fortunately, this
time round, they’ve been of the positive kind.
When In Your Pocket first visited this city seven
years back Poznan was a very different place.
We liked what we saw, we just didn’t have too
much fun. Five star lodgings were an aberrant
fantasy, while eating out was like crossing a
minefield. As for clubbing, you’d need a shaved
head and an Adidas tracksuit to fit in with all
the other World Gym hardmen. Now, almost
unaccountably, Poznan hasn’t just changed,
it’s utterly transformed. The hotels here aren’t
just good, they’re among the best in Europe.
You’ll need to go to space to find somewhere
more hi-tech than the Blow Up Hall, while the
quality and choice of restaurants has finally
come to reflect the spread of nationalities that
visit the city. Better still, a night out doesn’t
end until the birds sing in the morning, with your
choices ranging from foggy student dungeons
to cutting edge dance floors. But if those are
the changes, what’s stayed the same? The
answer is the good bits. The old town remains
every bit as glorious as when it was first built,
and your daylight distractions go way beyond
the usual spread of galleries and churches.
Where else, for instance, can you find Egyptian
obelisks, meteor craters and synagogues since
turned into swimming pools. This is not the level
headed business city some people think; this
is madness microscoped, and one of the true
highlights of Central Europe. Enjoy it.
As always we welcome all feedback, so long as
it’s directed to editor_poland@inyourpocket.
com. Have a great summer.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Company office & Accounts
Basia Olszewska
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
058 555 08 31
[email protected]
Printing CGS
Published 15,000 copies,
3 times per year
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
Rynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica
31-042 Kraków, tel./fax 012 421 24 48
[email protected]
Poznań In Your Pocket
Europe In Your Pocket
Our team in Slovenia have been most active of lates,
this spring preparing now fewer than three brand new
In Your Pockets, to Bled, Maribor and Portoroz. The
same team is also responsible for the buzz of activity
around Banja Luka and Sarajevo in Bosnia, where In
Your Pockets are in the final stages of research and
development. Not content with the two countries they
have already well and truly Pocketed, they have now
turned west and have their eyes set firmly on Venice.
In nearby Croatia new guides to all your favourite
resorts are now available, including Dubrovnik, Rijeka,
Split and Zadar, while seasonal, annual guides are also
now out in Parnu, Estonia, and Klaipeda and Kaunas
in Lithuania.
Editorial
Copyright notice
Editor Garrett Van Reed
Assistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo
Research Małgorzata Frydryszewska,
Paweł Perkowski, Paweł Perwejnis
Events Klaudia Mampe, Łukasz Jankowski,
Vaughan Elliott
Design Tomáš Haman
Photography Rentapocket
Cover © Aleksander Liebert
Text and photos copyright WIYP
1999/2009. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Sales & Circulation
Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 0606 749 676
Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane
Representative: Anna Chłapek 0668 876 351
Warszawa/Łódź
Manager: Marta Ciepły 0606 749 643
Wrocław/Poznań
Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 0606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz
Manager: Monika Kitson 0503 057 142
Representative: Bartosz Matyjas 058 555 98 18
City Park Residence
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Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
City Park Residence
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6
COMMUNIST POZNAŃ
It’s here, in between some low-budget eateries, you’ll
find a couple of Socialist Realist wall reliefs, one of which
depicts a Red Army ‘frontovnik’ face to face with a Polish
rifleman. Close by examples of Socialist housing projects
are numerous, with the most obvious being that found on
Plac Wielkoplski. While nowhere near as impressive as
similar estates in Warsaw and Nowa Huta it is nonetheless
a fine model of Soviet era architecture – not only were such
estates designed with the community in mind, but also for
‘efficient mutual control’. The wide spaces were intended to
prevent the spread of fire, the profusion of trees would soak
up a potential nuclear blast, while the layout was such that
the city could easily be turned into a fortress town should
it come under attack. Find further examples of this unique
architectural style to the west of the city, where whole blocks
between Glogowska and Bukowska streets have been built
as if by the hand of Stalin himself.
Soviet-Polish Friendship
Alex Webber
Poland has moved quicker than a greased goose to embrace
capitalism, and few cities have done more than Poznan to
ditch those clunky shackles of socialism. The collapse of
communism brought with it a vengeful iconoclasm, with stars
and sickles stripped from the buildings and statues they
formerly adorned. As such few symbols of the old regime
survive, though those with an eagle eye and a good map
(we recommend the one found lurking to the back of this
paperback hero) will still find traces of Stalin etc.
For fans of the red flag the most obvious area to start will
be the Soviet cemetery up in the Citadel Park (G-1, Wzgorze
Cytadela). On January 24, 1945, Stalingrad veteran Colonel
General Vasily Chuikov received orders to capture Poznan.
The city, designated a closed fortress by Hitler, had been
fortified heavily, and the bloodletting lasted for over a month.
Those who fell are now buried in Citadel Park, alongside the
countless Polish troops who died alongside them. Today the
chipped and fading graves of the twenty something’s who
died make for poignant sightseeing, with stout gravestones
erected in the shadow of a soaring
obelisk set atop a steep staircase
cut into the hill. The monument, bleak
and faceless as it is, is typical of the
severe and austere style associated
with Socialist Realist architecture, and
never ceases to impress in its size.
Alas, the red star which once topped the
column has long since gone, it’s post1989 toppling ending a long-enduring
myth – for decades the people of Poz
were convinced that hidden underneath
it were a hoard of jewels seized by the
conquerors during the German flight.
Some 5,000 Polish troops fought
alongside their Soviet comrades in the
battle for Poznan, and this ‘brotherhood’
is remembered on Ratajczaka 35. Okraglak
Impressive as they are you won’t find a finer remnant of the
Peoples’ Republic than on the western end of ul. Grudnia
27. It’s here you’ll be met by the sight of the Okraglak
building, a cylindrical marvel that has come to be regarded
as one of Poznan’s defining icons. Constructed between
1948 and 1955 the building is a leading example of Polish
Modernism, and built to a blueprint sketched by Marek
Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor
masterpiece once housed Poznan’s top department store,
and it was here during the dark days of communism that
locals would queue to find ‘luxury’ products unavailable
elsewhere. Today, after years of abject neglect, work is
underway to restore the beast to its former glory. Under
the guiding hand of JEMS Architecki the building is to be
turned into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space,
with a completion date marked for 2010. As for Marek
Leykam, the brainbox who designed this battle-pig, more
of his work can be found in the shape of the University
of Physical Education in Poznan, as well as in the capital
– it was he who designed the Government Office on ul.
Wspolna 62, as well as the 10th Anniversary Stadium
(now under bulldozers as brickies go about the task of
constructing a new national stadium ahead of the Euro
2012 football championships).
But don’t make speed Warsaw way just yet – there’s still
hammer and sickles aplenty, and best of all they’re found
in pubs. Proletaryat (ul. Wroclawska 9) is the best known,
and beyond the giant bust of Lenin standing in the window
you’ll find a scaled down version of socialist paradise. Pics of
Engels and Marx dominate a smoke clad interior, and the ever
present queue for the toilet allows for plenty of opportunity
to admire party manifestos and paintings of rabble rousing
revolutionaries. Better still is PRL, a
murky basement bar on the corner of
Mokra and Zydowska. It’s here you’ll
find two rooms of recovered communist
loot, including riot shields once used to
suppress protesters, pennants of Lenin
and dog eared propaganda posters
of workers who look delighted to be
stacking bricks for pennies.
Jolly good fun it is, but in all the mistyeyed reminisces it is to be remembered
that communism proved an unflinchingly
brutal system. Remind yourself as such
by visiting the 1956 Poznan Uprising
Museum (see What to See), a disturbing
exhibition portraying the events that led
to the first mass uprising against the
JvM Communist system.
8
TOURIST TRAILS OF POZNAŃ
the lion’s share of fortifications were defended by regular
soldiers the locals also weighed in to do their bit with guilds
and assorted associations manning certain towers – it’s for
this reason certain defences became known as ‘Butchers
Tower’ and ‘Tailors Tower’. There was even one guarded after
by an ensemble of chimney sweeps.
And don’t think for a moment these defences served a single
purpose. Many of the towers had dual functions – St Catherine’s
Tower has held a monastery since the 16th century, while the
Fireman’s Tower was - guess what - home to the local fire
station. Another was inhabited by the city executioner, and
the Merchants Tower used as a dank prison. However as the
centuries passed the defences became increasingly obsolete
when faced with evolving military technology. By the time the
18th century came along many of the walls were a sorry sight
having born the full brunt of countless sieges and artillery
rounds. With the city now under Prussian rule it was decided
to get rid of the majority of walls altogether, and many found
themselves torn down to allow the city to grow outwards.
Wroniecka
Alex Webber
Thus far summer in Poznan has proved every bit as wet as
the ballroom on the Titanic. However, past history suggests
microwave temperatures are around the corner, and should
that prove the case you could do a lot worse than leaving
your barstool, comfortable as it is, and following the tourist
trails that now exist.
The City Walls
Back in the old days it was a good idea to have your city
defended by a set of walls, and this was never truer than
in the case of Poznan. This was, after all, a city continually
facing attack from all sides – even Sweden. From its inception
Poznan was craftily positioned, with a location between
hills and floodplains adding an element of security to the
habitants of the town. Even still it was necessary to add to
these natural defences, and so over 1,700 metres of walls
were constructed to ward off potential invaders. They stood
seven metres high and one and half metres thick, and were
supplemented with over 30 towers. Best of all, they worked
– in 1331 the city was besieged for a week by King John of
Luxembourg and survived to tell the tale.
The middle of the 15th century saw the addition of an outer
brick wall, itself fortified further with 12 towers and a network
of moats. Many of these included gateways to the city, though
for the most part new arrivals would head through entrances
on ul. Wroclawska, Wodna, Wielka and Wroniecka. While
Artillery Tower
Alex Webber
In recent times work has been undertaken to unearth and
restore some of these original fortifications, and today it’s
possible to traipse around many of the defences that once kept
the citizens of Poznan safe from outsiders. Most impressive of
the lot is the stretch of wall that beings at the top of Wroniecka
– from here a cobbled walkway, illuminated at night, has been
added to run past St Catherine’s and the Fireman’s Tower,
before concluding at the rotund looking Artillery Tower. For the
full story, as well as a very handy map outlining the trails, pick up
‘The Historic City Wall of Poznan’, an excellent English language
booklet available for free at Tourist Information.
The Royal-Imperial Route
One more route devised by the chaps at Tourist Info is The
Royal-Imperial Route, an epic walk that takes in practically
everything there is to see in the city. The name of the route
springs from the city’s royal and imperial past – it’s in
Poznan, of course, that Polish kings once resided, while later
in history it was visited by two Tsars, Napoleon and Kaiser
Wilhelm II. As such many of the highlights focus on these
regal associations, though they’re certainly not limited to
them alone. Included in the walk (which would surely take
a few days to fully accomplish) are the Dancing Rooster
House (a prime example of secessionist architecture) as
well as the Ignacy Paderewski Musical Academy, which
we’re assured is the only place in Europe to offer courses in
violin making. Foldable maps are available for free in Tourist
Information, though it’s also well worth spending 15zl on the
accompanying booklet - a smashing tourist aid with the full
lowdown on the sights on offer.
Tourist Buses & Trams
If you find walking a waste of energy then why not go mobile
and take advantage of the ‘tourist buses and trams’ laid on by
the city. Running till October 4th visitors can hit pretty much hit
all the key sights by boarding vintage looking buses and trams
that have been taken out of retirement. Green trams marked
with a circle and a ‘0’ leave from Gajowa and poodle around the
centre taking in numerous stops including Rondo Kaponiera,
Plac Wolnosci and Most Sw. Rocha. Alternatively get the antique
looking red bus with the number ‘100’ placed in the window.
Journeys begin on Gajowa and stops include the edge of old
town, Stary Browar, Ostrow Tumski and Lake Malta. Tickets
cost 3zl for both bus and tram (2zl for kids), and you can also buy
family tickets and all-day passes. For further details on routes
and schedule pick up a leaflet from tourist information, or click
your mouse in the direction of www.kmps.org.pl.
TRADE FAIRS
After Poland re-emerged on the map of Europe in 1918
with the advent of the second Polish Republic, the
Poznań fair was instrumental in helping to re-integrate
economic activities. It contributed to the task of creating
a new Polish market and in demonstrating to the outside
world Poland’s readiness for economic and commercial
cooperation. It also helped with the complex task of
unifying the three areas of Poland separated during the
partitions and in which different fiscal, monetary and legal
systems operated.
In 1928, the city of Poznań and the Poznań International Fair
held the Universal National Exhibition, which showed the world
the achievements of the first decade of the new Polish state.
Over 4.5 million people visited the fair, including delegations
from many foreign countries. The Poznań International Fair
was one of the few fairs that managed to survive the great
economic crisis of 1929-1932 and by the outbreak of WWII
it was considered one of Europe’s leading fairs.
However, the war had a catastrophic ef fect on the
International Fair complex. The Germans used the buildings
for storage and to manufacture airplane parts. On Easter
Sunday 1943, a day when no Poles were at the Fair, the
British Royal Air Force bombed pavilions 5 and 8 as Stanisław
Laskowski, the Fair’s president, looked on. Pavilion 5 was
rebuilt in the 1970s with funds from the British Department
of Trade and Industry.
In 1946 rebuilding started on the same land and the first
post-war fair was held under the title Fashion and Home
(Odzież i dom). The Poznań International Fair started anew
in 1947 but was once again forced to close - this time, in the
years 1951-54, because of the atmosphere created by the
Cold War. It was only in 1955, with the multi-product Poznań
International Fair exhibit, that the Fair started cooperating
with foreign countries again.
August 22-23
Roltechnika
September 2-4
Body Style, FAST FASHION Exhibition, Next Season,
Tex-Style
September 4-5
Poznań Optical Exhibition
September 13-17
Polagra - Tech
September 14-17
Gastro Trendy
September 14-16
International Food Ingredients Show
September 14-14
PAKFOOD
. 2009
.10
September 14-17
Polagra - Food
September 24-26
14th Congress of Dental Teams
October 9-11
FARMA
and
Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back as
far as 1254 when King Przemysław I granted special
privileges to traders. Over the following centuries Poznań
developed this trading tradition to the point where, in
1917, local merchants decided to develop a specialised
fair institution. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921,
when the first Poznań fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s
fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political
and economic changes that periodically moved through
Poland and Europe.
Trade fair schedule
Poz
Ocotber 16-18
Extreme Arena
ol
Most foreign visitors to Central Europe are unfamilar with
Poznań. However, those that do business in this part of the world
know the city well. If you’re here on business you are probably
already aware that Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital. It is
estimated that over 60 percent of all trade fairs held in Poland
are held in Poznań at the International Fair Centre.
21-2
4
10
nań, P
October 16-18
Fantasy Arena
October 16-18
Game Arena
October 21-24
Invest – Hotel
October 21-24
Tour Salon
October 22-23
DISCOVER POLAND
October 24-25
HOBBY
Trade fairs
Poznań International Fairs (Międzynarodowe
Targi Poznańskie) E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. 061
869 20 00, fax 061 866 58 27, [email protected], www.
mtp.pl.
World Trade Center Poznań E-3, ul. Bukowska 12,
tel. 061 866 10 50, [email protected].
pl, www.wtc-Poznań.com.pl. The WTC fosters world
trade and promotes international business relationships.
WTC runs a visitor information desk during every fair,
where foreigners can get free fair passes and information
on the relevant industrial sector in English, Russian and
German. It also has a business centre and a bar.QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
MiÚdzynarodowe Targi Poznañskie sp. z o.o.
Poznañ International Fair Ltd.
ul. Gïogowska 14, 60-734 Poznañ, Poland
tel. +48 61 / 869 20 00, fax +48 61 / 869 29 69
e-mail: [email protected]
12
ARRIVING
Arriving by bus
PKS Poznań Bus Station is found on ul. Towarowa directly to
the South West of the old town. There are no 24hr exchange
bureaus (kantors) though one operates from between 09:00
and 18:00 - it's just outside the main building. You'll find a
PKO ATM (bankomat) right next to here. A Tourist Info point is
located next to the ticket booths and they provide information
and maps alone. Left luggage can be found in the main building
with lockers costing 4 and 8zł per day, depending on the size
you opt for. If you don't trust the electronic lockers then leave
your bags with the porter close to the toilet.
Phone booths are found outside and phone cards can be
bought from the newsagents. They'll also be able to sell you
SIM cards and Pre-Paid cards for your mobile.
A few taxis will usually stand outside the main hall and a trip to
the centre will cost around 10zł. If none are waiting then give
a reliable operator like MPT a call (061 19191). Trams 2 and
6 also run to the centre, as does bus 71. A 15 minute ticket
costing 2.00zł is all that is needed. Validate it on boarding.
Tickets are available from all kiosks.
Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy)
F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.
poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 06:00 - 19:30.
Arriving by car
The A2 leads into Poznań from east and west directions, and
the A5 and the A11from south to north. Follow the signs for
Poznań centrum to get into the heart of the city.
If for some absolutely weird reason you find yourself driving
through Poland with no Polish money than you can get your
foreign bills exchanged at any kantors you see. The one in
the train station is open around the clock, as is the one in the
Hotel Rzymski (Al. Marcinkowskiego 22). ATMs (bankomats)
are found scattered generously around, with a number found
in the main square (Rynek).
The most central Tourist Info point can be found in the main
square (C-2, Stary Rynek 59-60), and they offer maps, guides
and In Your Pocket. If you need to leave your luggage under
lock and key somewhere then your best bet is your hotel.
Alternatively, check luggage details as described in the
bus and train stations. SIM cards and Pre-Pay cards can be
purchased from all kiosks.
Arriving by plane
Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km
west of central Poznan. On arrival there are two exchange
bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand
side of the exit. If you've got your card on you then there are
two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found
on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the
ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from
stocking Poznań's best guidebook, you can also purchase
SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As
with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage
facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on
either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them
are available from every newsagent. They'll also be able to
sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone.
Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside the
entrance, though if none should be waiting call a reputable
operator like MPT (tel. 061 19191) or Radio Lux Taxi for something more flashy (tel. 061 19662). On the whole you'll pay
around 25zł to get to town. Do be on the look out for cowboy
drivers though, and only use taxis that are clearly marked with
their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by getting
a bus. There is a stop right outside the entrance with two
GETTING AROUND
buses running from it: Line 59 (Airport-Bałtyk) heads to Rondo
Kaponiera with journey time taking 30 minutes. It leaves
every half an hour from around 05:00, the last one departing
at approximately half past ten in the evening. Alternatively
catch the Express Line L (Airport - Central Station). Journey
time takes 20 minutes though there's only one bus per hour
(from 05:00 to 21:45). At other times the airport is connected
to the central train station by a night bus (line 242), with one
an hour from 23:29 till 03:29. Journey time should take 30
minutes. Single tickets valid for the 30 minute journey can be
bought for 3.60zł to any kiosk or from the driver. Remember
to validate your ticket on boarding.
Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań
Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www.
airport-poznan.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Arriving by train
Poznań's Central Railway Station (Dworzec Poznań Główny)
is to the west of the old town, right next to the trade fair.
There is a 24hr currency exchange (kantor) in the main hall
as well as a ATMs (bankomats) operated by PKO and WBK
bank. Tourist Info, also in the hall, can sell phone cards, SIM
cards, In Your Pocket, tram tickets, maps and more. Left luggage lockers can be found at the end of the main hall with
small and large lockers priced at 4/8zł respectively per day.
If you want someone to look after your bag then look for
the sign directing you to Przechowalnia bagażu - there's one
downstairs from platform 4. The price you pay is dependent
on numerous factors, including what you claim your luggage
to be worth. Frustrating? You bet.
Phone booths are found around the main hall and cards to
use them are available from newsagents and the Tourist Info
point. You'll also be able to buy SIM cards and pre-paid cards
for your mobile at the same places.
Taxis to the main square will cost around 10-15zł, and there's
always a constant line standing outside. Bus 51 also runs
to the city centre with buses leaving every 15 minutes. The
service runs from 04:51 to 23:16. Buy a 15 minute ticket for
the journey. They'll set you back 2.00zł and can be purchased
from newsagents.
Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl.
Car rental
By bus
Avis ul. Bukowska 285
(Ławica Airport), tel. 061
849 23 35, w w w.avis.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Telephone line manned 24hrs a day.
Hertz ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061
868 41 77, www.hertz.com.pl. Twenty-four hour number
0 605 15 04 23. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00,
Sun 14:00 - 17:00.
Eur opcar ul. Bu-
kowska 285 (Ławica
Airpor t), tel. 061
849 23 57, w w w.
europcar.pl. Europcar is one of the biggest car rental
companies in Poland offering many rental options (both
short and long term) that will suit all needs (8 different
categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at
all Polish airports and many other convenient locations).
Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to meet your
individual mobility needs. In doing so we deliver excellence
in services and benefits that are tailored to fulfil your
specific requirements. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30.
Lucas Car Rental ul. Rolna 35 (Wilda), tel. 061 670
75 75, www.lucasrental.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Sun open on request.
National ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 0
501 33 64 42, www.nationalcar.com.pl. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun Open on request.
Poznań lies on the main highway (E30) between Warsaw and
Berlin, and is served by frequent Eurolines buses. While the
bus station is not one of the most modern you are likely to
visit, it does have all the services you will need including
toilets, tourist information and left luggage lockers.
Eurolines C-3, ul. Półwiejska 41, tel. 061 853 12 28,
www.eurolinespolska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy)
F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.
pks.poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 05:30 - 19:30, Sat,
Sun 06:30-19:30.
By car
Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway
between Warsaw and Berlin. Driving around Poznań’s one way
streets can be trying and as the Market Square is closed to
traffic you may have to drive half way around the city to get
from one side to the other.
Most parking spaces in Poznań are paid and marked by a blue
line. Fancy parking meters need chip-cards, costing 1.20zł/
half hour and 2.40zł/hour weekdays 10:00 - 18:00 and Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Chip cards are sold in some shops, cafés and
from the parking authority SOP. A combination of traffic jams
and car crime make it advisable to leave your car in one of
the guarded car parks dotted around the city and use the
local transport system to get around.
Guarded Parking E-3, ul. Roosvelta (Hotel Mercure).
Guarded Parking G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36.
City Card
The Poznan local government offer a city
card for visitors which allows you to visit
the city’s attractions while enjoying either
free admission or discounted prices.
Incorporating free travel on the city’s public transport
system as part of the price, you will be given a guide along
with the card explaining how to use it and informing you
of which places offer free admission (most museums) and
which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres,
cinemas and other attractions such as the zoos). The card
can also be used in selected places outside of the city such
as Kornik Castle and you can enjoy the additional benefit
of using the card there for an extra day in addition to the
number of days that the card is valid in the city.
Cards cost 30zl for 1-day, 40zl for 2-days and 45zl for
3-days and can be purchased from:
City Information Centre on ul. Ratajczaka 44,
Tourist Information Centre on the Market Square, and
the Glob-Tour office in Poznan railway station as well as
at selected hotels.
Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznan City
Card has been marked with a Y symbol.
July - October 2009
13
14
GETTING AROUND
Public transport
Poznań is criss-crossed by 20 tram routes (of which one
runs at night), and 56 bus lines (21 at night). During the day
these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams running
approximately every ten minutes, and buses every twelve.
When buying a ticket travellers
are presented with a galaxy of
options. Fares are as follows:
Tram/bus tickets:
Journeys of up to fifteen minutes:
2.00zł (concessions 1.00zł)
Up to 30 minutes:
3.60zł (1.80zł)
Up to 60 minutes:
5.80zł (2.90zł)
There are also express lines which run to the airport amongst
other places and whose numbers are prefixed with either
‘A’, ‘P’ or ‘L’.
Express lines for up to 15 minutes: 4.00zł (2.00zł)
Tickets valid for 24 hours are also available (13.20zł/6.60zł),
as are weekly passes (32zł/16zł).
If you thought it couldn’t get anymore complicated you’d be
wrong. Those using the bus (and bus only), can also choose
from one ride tickets for up to ten stops (2.20zł/1.10zł), for
over ten stops (3.60zł/1.80zł), as well as express and seasonal lines for up to ten stops (4.20zł/2.10zł), and over ten
stops (7.00zł/3.50zł).
GETTING AROUND
Children under four and adults over 70 travel for free, and discounts are available for students aged under 26 and youths
in possession of an ISIC card. Tickets can be purchased from
the newsagent kiosks around town and the Polish word for
ticket is ‘bilet’.
Long term visitors can also buy a KOMkarta, an electronic card
that is valid for 30 days. These can be purchased from one
of the eleven MPK ticket points in the city, and then topped
up in the same place, or at one of the Ruch kiosks you see
around the town.
Our advice if you are here for a few
days is to pick up the Poznan City
Card which gives you free unlimited
use of the public transport system
as part of the price. It’ll save an
awful lot of headaches.
It is extremely important that you remember to validate your
ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/
tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticket
and find yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll be
fined 100zł on the spot. Many don’t look very official so you
are within your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to pay
within seven days (in which case the fine rises to 140zł), or
within 14 days (200zł).
Foreigners thinking they can slip out of the country without paying up are in for a nasty surprise. You’re passport
details will have been noted, and border guards will gleefully place you in custody - it’s not worth the trouble, trust
us. Finally, although crime is rare be on guard against
pickpockets, par ticularly if making the journey to and
from the airport.
By plane
Poznań Ławica international airport is 7km west of the city.
To get to the airport take bus N°59 which runs every 25
minutes (every 30 minutes on weekends) or bus N°L which
run every hour from bus stops in and around the city centre.
Services run from around 05:00 until 23:00. By taxi you can
expect to pay between 25-30zł if you use a reputable firm.
The airport features a VIP lounge as well as ATMs, internet
cafe and car rental stands.
Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań
Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www.
airport-poznan.com.pl. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy
Poznań Ławica) is 7km west of central Poznan. There are two
exchange bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the
left hand side of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then
there are two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats)
found on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on
the ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from
stocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase
SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As
with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage
facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on
either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them
are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to
sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone.
Getting to there from town is a cinch. On the whole you’ll pay
around 25zł to get there from town by taxi. Only use taxis
that are clearly marked with their company name and a list
of prices. Cut costs by getting a bus. From Rondo Kaponiera
catch the number 59, or from the train station catch the express line L. At other times the airport is connected from the
central train station by a night bus (line 242). Single tickets
valid for the 30 minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł to
any kiosk or from the driver. Remember to validate your ticket
on boarding.Q Open 24hrs.
Taxis
Most taxis these days are reliable and use their metres but
be aware of rogue taxis which hang around train stations
and certain hotels. Make sure that your cab as a sign on
the roof marked with the name of the company rather than
just a simple ‘taxi’ sign. Once inside make sure the driver
turns on the metre and you should be fine. Under Polish
law the driver should now have a cash register in the cab
and is obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare.
You should expect to pay 5zl for entering the taxi followed
by 2zl per kilometre. Prices rise at weekends and late at
night and for travel outside of the city limits. Taxis are
obliged to display their prices in the windows of the cab so
you can compare and check prices. Note that many firms
offer a discount to their published prices if you phone and
book one in advance.
Express Taxi , tel. 061 196 24, www.taxiexpress.pl.
Also vans and microbuses.
Hallo Taxi , tel. 061 196 23.
M1 taxi , tel. 061 96 69/061 822 22 22.
MPT Taxi , tel. 061 191 91.
Radio Lux Taxi , tel. 061 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl.
Poznan’s most reliable taxi firm. All taxis are Mercedes and
drivers wear a collar and tie. Ordering a taxi in Poland can still
be a lottery as there are no apparent standards for how the
taxi should look so if you want to make sure that you or your
guest is picked up by something that doesn’t look like it has
a dog sleeping in the back you should really give these guys
a call. They also accept credit cards.
Radio Taxi Poznań , tel. 061 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.
Mail & Phones
Internet cafes
Cafe Cz@towa ul. Głogowska 142 (Grunwald),
tel. 061 661 55 31. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. 3.50zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning
services available.
Ecafe F-3, ul. Roosevelta 10/5, tel. 061 843 26
69, www.ecafe.net.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 5zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning
services available.
Post
Main Post Office (Główny Urząd Pocztowy)
A-2, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. 061 869 74 08, www.
poczta-polska.pl. The main post office is relatively
user-friendly with none of the automated ticket machines
found in so many of Poland’s post offices. Here you simply
join whichever queue is smallest and hope for the best.
Stamps are available from all windows.QOpen 07:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Post Office C-1, ul. 23 Lutego 28, tel. 061 886 55
01, www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Post Office D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061 886 55
19, www.poczta-polska.pl. The post office in the old
town area. Send and receive packages and letters from
windows N°1-3, and buy stamps at N°2 and 3. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Post Office (Poczta Polska) os. Orła Białego 3
(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 886 57 01, www.pocztapolska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Public phones
After being virtually wiped out, pay phones in Poznań have
made an inexplicable comeback. As such, many are new
and actually work. Almost all of them require you use a phone
card with an electronic chip, which can be obtained at most
kiosks, but not all, so it may take some perseverance to track
one down. The magic words are ‘Proszę kartę telefoniczną.’
Easy Call Forget calling cards, all you need to make a
cheap call from landlines is a credit card. Dial toll-free to
0800 909 444 and follow the instructions in English. A
call to London is only 0,60zł a minute.
Travel agencies
Almatur B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9/43 (entrance from ul.
Ratajczaka 8), tel. 061 855 76 33, www.almatur.pl.
Blue Sky Travel F-2, ul. Roosevelta 2, tel. 061 841 09
00, www.bluesky.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Fly Away Travel D-1, ul. Wroniecka 17, tel. 061 853 03
57, www.flyaway.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Orbis Travel C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 21, tel. 061 851
20 00, www.orbistravel.poznan.pl. Q Open 09:30-17:30,
Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun.
Tui Centrum Podróży E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 7, tel. 061
847 11 78, www.tui.pl/wct. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
July - October 2009
15
BASICS
GETTING AROUND
Train schedule
Train smarts
The facts
Market values
From Poznań
To Poznań
Dep. Arr.
Destination
Dep. Arr.
10:27 13:15
BERLIN Ostbf
06:40 09:27
14:27 17:27
BERLIN Hbf
12:29 15:27
02:02 09:18
KRAKÓW
05:47 13:12
05:47 13:19
KRAKÓW
07:47 15:12
07:35 15:19
KRAKÓW
12:47 20:11
12:35 20:18
KRAKÓW
15:47 23:07
08:23 14:18
GDYNIA
04:37 09:37
12:23 18:22
GDYNIA
10:31 15:34
14:15 20:06
GDYNIA
14:30 19:30
02:20 06:05
WARSAW
05:55 09:19
07:00 10:00
WARSAW
07:35 10:24
09:30 12:20
WARSAW
09:55 13:28
10:26 14:05
WARSAW
11:35 14:24
12:30 15:20
WARSAW
12:35 15:26
15:30 18:20
WARSAW
16:35 19:24
16:30 19:20
WARSAW
17:35 20:30
19:30 22:20
WARSAW
18:00 21:32
06:45 09:20
WROCŁAW
07:35 10:32
07:35 10:20
WROCŁAW
10:06 12:27
09:40 12:20
WROCŁAW
12:38 15:12
13:46 16:50
WROCŁAW
14:06 16:27
14:35 17:20
WROCŁAW
15:35 18:07
15:35 18:02
WROCŁAW
15:54 18:57
18:35 21:19
WROCŁAW
16:35 19:15
19:45 22:20
WROCŁAW
19:35 22:12
Most trains running to and from Gdynia (Berlin apart)
stop at Gdańsk and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutes
to Gdańsk and 10 to Sopot. Trains are subject to
change on public holidays. Train schedule is subject to
change due to ongoing works (track improvements).
For a full schedule check www.pkp.pl
The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape
even if the rolling stock is by and large something you
may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly
better than Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run
on time, are cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are
generally pretty slow even on express and Intercity trains
with limited high-speed sections of track throughout the
country. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing
increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by
western standards very cheap with a first -class ticket
to Krakow from Warsaw for instance setting you back
about 140zl (about €30).
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea
(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 22nd June 2009 based on
€1 = 4.50zł
Product
Price (zł) Price (€)
McDonald's Big Mac
7,70 zł
€ 1,71
Snickers
1,50 zł
€ 0,33
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
25,00 zł € 5,56
0.5ltr beer (shop)
3,10 zł
€ 0,69
0.5ltr beer (bar)
7,00 zł
€ 1,56
Loaf of white bread
2,10 zł
€ 0,47
20 Marlboros
9,95 zł
€ 2,21
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
4,52 zł
€ 1,00
Local transport ticket (15 mins) 2,00 zł
€ 0,44
The main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite
the fairgrounds and about 10 minutes by taxi from the Market Square. There is a Poznań City Information (Informacja
Miejska Poznan) counter in the station, however your best
bet is Glob-Tour, a private tourist office-cum-bookshop that
sells guides, maps and organises apartment rental. GlobTour also exchanges currency. If you are only staying for a
couple of hours leave your luggage in the left luggage room
(przechowalnia bagażu). It costs 2zł per item per day plus
1.5% of value in your bag; Open 06:00 to 22:30. Tram and
bus tickets can be bought from the MPK kiosk on the right
when leaving the train station building, open 06:00 - 20:00.
Tickets for domestic trains can be bought at windows N°2-14
in the main hall and while most are open 24hrs you will find
queues. Do allow yourself time to get your ticket although it
is now possible to purchase tickets on board the train for a
small fee. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and
7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows,
but talk to the information office first.
Trains are reached by heading into the tunnel under the
Relay newsagents where you will see signs for the different
platforms (peron). The station has a coffee shop, KFC and a
few snack bars but if you have time to kill, it is recommended
to take the 10 minute walk over to the nearby Sheraton where
you can wait for your train in comfortable surroundings without
being bothered by beggars every 2 minutes.
Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl. Buy domestic
tickets at windows N°2-14 in the main hall, most are open
24hrs. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7
(open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows,
but talk to the information office first.
With the exception of pociąg osobowy trains, ticket prices
include a seperate seat reservation charge. More information on train times and prices check the very useful
www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English option. There
is the functionality to book tickets online once you have
registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp). This
option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without
the hassle of queuing at the station.
If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train
station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the
desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor.
You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 9zł), and
credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected
to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzien
dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passengers
will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and
the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2007)
Poland 38,126,000
Warsaw 1,702,139
Kraków 756,267
Łódź 755,251
Wrocław 634,630
Poznań 564,951
Gdańsk 456,658
Katowice 314,500
Sopot 40,666
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Assen, Brno, Hannover, Jyväskylä, Kharkiv, Nablus, Nottinghamshire, Pozuelo de Alarcón, Rennes, Shenzhen,
Toledo.
Climate
20
80
Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may
have the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a
woman who has no qualms with silencing errant children
with a thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a
compartment with perky army discharges. Upgrading
to first class for a cursory fee is usually enough to avoid
these pitfalls.
Finally most stations throughout the country are appalling
lacking in signs denoting the station name and it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating with your
fellow passengers can save a lot of time and frustration.
18,1
Rainfall
Temperature
70
17,8
16,3
15
60
13,5
13,3
50
10
8,6
7,9
40
5
30
3,4
3,4
20
-0,2
0,5
-1,0
-5
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
0
10
0
Arrivals Przyjazdy
Departures Odjazdy
Platform Peron
Booze
While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign
community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the
country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked
sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being
Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves
as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a szarlotka
– a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade of
bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankering
for something a little more fiery should look no further than
ordering a Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of vodka, Tabasco
and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more to
look for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser - a
sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf.
But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel.
If you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make
sure it’s not in front of the law. A trip to the drunk tank at ul.
Podolanska 46 will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour stay.
In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue
pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants.
Those resisting arrest will find absolutely no improvement
to their situation. Rather hospitably, refreshment comes In
the form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will
smell of urine for a reason.
Customs
Temperature (°C)
By train
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
of train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trains
are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot,
with first and second class compartments holding up to
six people. New rolling stock is appearing with open carriages and 220v AV sockets. Ekspress are supposed to
be older and slower and pack more people into less space
than the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearing
as both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either of
the above for long-distance journeys. Both come with
dining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleep
will incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers should
not make the mistake of booking a seat in a smoking
compartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskates
looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper
Tanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy
(os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your
journey is guaranteed to try your good humour.
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań
sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the
Odra at Szczecin.
Rainfall (mm)
16
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work
of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good'
and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If
the gallery or shop can't supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki
Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator's Office). If a book
was printed before 1945, you'll need permission from the
National Library to take it out of Poland.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents
Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you
can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don't have one
the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical
outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save
yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave.
July - October 2009
17
18
BASICS
BASICS
Language smarts
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
Basic pronunciation of consonants
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ and ‘dż’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cześć
dzień dobry
dobry wieczór
dobranoc
tak
nie
proszę
na zdrowie
dziękuje
przepraszam
kocham cię
Mam na imię
Jestem z Anglii
(cheshch)
(jen do-bri)
hi/bye
good morning/
afternoon
(do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
(dobrah-nots)
good night
(tahk)
yes
(nyeh)
no
(prosheh)
please
(nah zdrovyeh)
cheers
(jen-koo-yeh)
thank you
(psheh-prasham)
sorry
(koham tshe)
I love you
(mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
(yehstem zanglee)
I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety)
Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee
po angielsku?
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Nie mówię po
(nyeh moovyeh po
polsku
polskoo)
Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Jedno piwo
(yedno peevo pohpoproszę
prosheh)
Numbers
1
2
3
10
jeden
dwa
trzy
dziesięć
General
Airport
Train station
Bus station
Right/left
One ticket to
First/second class
lotnisko
dworzec pkp
dworzec pks
prawo/lewo
jeden bilet do
pierwsza/druga klasa
Where are the toilets?
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
I don’t speak Polish
Please write it down
Can I smoke here?
One beer please
yehden
dva
tshi
jayshench
Flowers
National holidays
As in much of Eastern Europe the giving of flowers comes with
a sophisticated set of rules. Should you wish to stay on the
right side of your lover, parents-in-law, etc pay heed to the
following. Always give an odd number of flowers (or stems)
unless the occasion is a solemn one. If visiting somebody
with flowers be sure to remove the paper before you arrive.
Decorative foil can be left on. Always give flowers with your left
hand in order to shake or kiss the right hand of the recipient.
Attention should also be paid to colour. If you're proposing,
then it's red for your fiancée and pink for her mother. Pink
flowers are also considered the most neutral, so when in
doubt use those. Yellow is the colour of envy, chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations remain unpopular,
especially among women, due to their communist connotations. Good luck.
January 1 New Year’s Day
April 12, 2009 Easter Sunday
April 13, 2009 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 31, 2009 Pentecost Sunday
June 11, 2009 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also
Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public payphone should use the following numbers: 999
for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistics
capabilities of the call operator.
From June 2 till September 30 English, German or Russian
speakers have the option of using a separate line specifically
designed for foreigners in trouble. If that sounds like you then
you'll need to call 0 800 200 300.
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,
of which a comprehensive list can be found online. If you've
run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail
you out, and you're hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for
anywhere displaying the Western Union logo.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar,
will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins
can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come
in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there
are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which
come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will
also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your
ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the
banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious
reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations
and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you
with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly
strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly
halved while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your
euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said
that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still
remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe.
A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than
20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł.
at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the
mistake of being patient. ‘I'm late for something, can I go
first' is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up
their place in a line.
Old people in particular seem to assume that they should by
rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The only
time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are in
banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assume
a stance as far as possible from the next man, often leading
to confusion who is and who isn't queuing in the first place.
Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ a
ticket system to help organize queues.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and
looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to
the church for solace and during the communist era, underground
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine
source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Safety
In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working
tram and bus routes by the train station. If you're in a bar or
a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car
are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight
trains are not unheard of, especially on the international routes
connecting Warsaw and Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book
a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something
to bear in mind around the train station and airport.
Queuing
Smoking
Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the
Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the
point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself
Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be
delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce
commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number
of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population
down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco
friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European
production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip
Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all
being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a
lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep
their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and
Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your
snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast;
an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor.
Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free
sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the
nether-regions of the venue.
Tipping
Tipping etiquette in Poland can be confusing for foreigners.
While in other countries it’s polite to say thanks when a waiter
collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland
uttering the word thank you is taken as a sign that you won’t
be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get
very expensive. What’s more, the waiter will do his or her
best to make you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get
anything back after realizing your mistake. For the most part
it is common to reward good service with a 10% tip once you
have received your change.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle
for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal
fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you've
already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also
used in train stations and most public conveniences.
Water
Not a problem in new buildings, but clapped out plumbing
in the older places mean that you shouldn't be surprised if
orange gunk comes pouring out of the tap. In general Poznań
water is safe to drink though it tastes nasty and occasionally looks worse. No problems are associated with using
it to brush your teeth, though bottled water is extremely
inexpensive and easy to find.
Quick currency convertor
PLN
1 zł
2 zł
3 zł
4 zł
5 zł
6 zł
7 zł
8 zł
9 zł
10 zł
20 zł
50 zł
100 zł
150 zł
200 zł
250 zł
1 000 zł
US$
3,24zł = $1
$0,31
$0,62
$0,93
$1,23
$1,54
$1,85
$2,16
$2,47
$2,78
$3,09
$6,17
$15,43
$30,86
$46,30
$61,73
$77,16
$308,64
Euro
4,50zł = €1
€ 0,22
€ 0,44
€ 0,67
€ 0,89
€ 1,11
€ 1,33
€ 1,56
€ 1,78
€ 2,00
€ 2,22
€ 4,44
€ 11,11
€ 22,22
€ 33,33
€ 44,44
€ 55,56
€ 222,22
Pound
5.34zł = £1
£0,19
£0,37
£0,56
£0,75
£0,94
£1,12
£1,31
£1,50
£1,69
£1,87
£3,75
£9,36
£18,73
£28,09
£37,45
£46,82
£187,27
July - October 2009
19
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
Castle Cultural Centre
CULTURE & EVENTS
As far as culture is concerned Poznań has an enormous
amount to offer. There are theatres and concert halls with the
Poznań Philharmonic, The Great Theatre and Polish Dance
Theatre to the fore. Events, concerts, exhibitions and festivals
are all organised by the Castle Cutural Centre which covers
Poznań and Estrada Poznańska. Other festivals include the
Duende International Flamenco Festival, Tzadik Poznań
Festival, Animator, Malta International Theatre Festival and
World Press Photo exhibition. If that doesn't puff you out, try
the marathon, the biggest in the country.
Art Galleries
ABC Gallery (Galeria ABC) D-3, ul. Garbary 38/6, tel.
061 853 02 91, www.abcgallery.pl. Modern art exhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Arsenal City Gallery (Galeria Miejska Arsenał)
Castle Cultural Centre (Centum Kultury
Zamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646
52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Built originally as a
royal residence (see what to see) at the turn of the 20th
century by Franz Schwechten to a design ordered by
Kaiser Wilhelm II, today this is one of Poland’s biggest
cultural institutions. Hosting over 700 events annually
in its palatial halls, rooms and courtyard, the building
acts as a theatre, gallery, cinema and concert venue.
The centre is well-known throught Poland and abroad
and often cooperates with other cultural institutions to
host exhibitions, film screenings, plays, conferences and
educational workshops. Q Box office open 11:00-19:00,
Closed Mon. Admission depending on repertoire.
08.07 Wednesday - 03.09 Thursday
Music Plus Theatre in the Castle Courtyards
A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82,
tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. A wide
choice of Polish groups are on show in this cycle of
concerts in the courtyards of the castle cultural centre.
Get the latest info at www.inyourpocket.com The line
up looks like this:
08.07 Wednesday 21:30 Maria Peszek
09.07 Thursday 21:30 Raz Dwa Trzy
14.07 Tuesday 21:30 Teatro Tascabile
15.07 Wednesday 21:30 Bester Quartet
16.07 Thursday 21:30 Pinnawela/Audiofeels
22.07 Wednesday 21:30 Motion Trio
23.07 Thursday 21:30 Katarzyna Groniec
29.07 Wednesday 21:30 Tymański Jass Ensemble
30.07 Thursday 21:30 Mariusz Lubomski
05.08 Wednesday 21:00 Martyna Jakubowicz
06.08 Thursday 21:00 Łąki Łan
12.08 Wednesday 21:00 Kasa Chorych
13.08 Thursday 21:00 Pogodno
19.08 Wednesday 21:00 Iwona Loranc
26.08 Wednesday 21:00 Komety
27.08 Thursday 21:00 Ares&The Tribe
03.09 Thursday 20:00 Lao Che
QTicket prices comming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre (Open 11:00 - 19:00).
C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal.
art.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 3/2zł.
Artistic Ceramics (Ceramika Artystyczna) D-2,
ul. Woźna 4, tel. 061 853 02 35. Ceramics, cups and
teapots. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Ego Gallery (Galeria Ego) C-2, ul. Wrocławska 19, tel.
061 853 15 81, www.galeriaego.pl. Modern art gallery.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.
FS Gallery (Galeria FS) A-2, ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. 061
853 79 86, www.galeriafs.com.pl. Paintings, sculptures,
artistic glass, graphics and jewellery. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Garbary 48 Gallery (Galeria Garbary 48) D-3, ul.
Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com.
pl. Contemporary Polish paintings, sculptures and graphics.
Admission free.
Renes Gallery (Galeria Renes) D-2, ul. Wodna 8/9,
tel. 061 855 75 42, www.renes.com.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Polish artists. Also on ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar). QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission free.
Techne Gallery (Galeria Techne) B-2, Pl. Wolności
5, tel. 061 851 85 43, www.galeriatechne.pl. Polish
glass, ceramic and clay design objects and jewellery. QOpen
10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Ventzi Gallery (Galeria Ventzi) D-3, ul. Wszystkich
Świętych 3/8, tel. 0 501 63 20 92, www.ventzi.art.pl.
Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.
Cinemas
Polish cinemas show most of the big international
releases in the original language with Polish subtitles. Be
warned though that most kids' films (and that includes
cartoons like South Park) are dubbed.
Apollo B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 18, tel. 061 851 76 34,
www.apollo.poznan.pl. Q Box office open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 15-18zł.
Cinema City Plaza / Orange IMAX Winogrady, ul.
Drużbickiego 2, tel. 061 662 62 62, www.kinoimax.pl.
Q Box office open 09:00 - 22:45. Tickets 13-28zł.
Malta Charlie & Marilyn I-3, ul. Filipińska 5, tel. 061
877 24 95, www.kinomalta.pl. You can have a projection
of your favourite movies on request! Q Box office open
depending on repertoire. Tickets 12-15zł.
Multikino 51 G-4, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, tel. 061
624 09 10, www.multikino.pl. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42
(Stary Browar, F-4). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 15-23zł.
Muza B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. 061 852 34 03, www.
kinomuza.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire.
Tickets 5-15zł. Y
Pałacowe A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52
04, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Q Box office open 11:0019:00.9/06. Tickets 10-20zł. U
Rialto E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 061 847 53 99,
www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Q Box office open depending
on repertoire. Tickets 8-15zł.
Dance & Music
Buy tickets online
As always, a full, regularly updated and expanded list of
Katowice events appears on our website, www.katowice.
inyourpocket.com, where you can also watch accompanying videos of many performers. Now, through cooperation
with our well-cultured friends at Eventim – Europe’s leading
ticket distributer – visitors to our website can instantly buy
tickets for applicable events and festivals in Katowice and
around Poland. Simply look for the ‘Buy tickets’ icon on the
right-hand side of events listings; a mouse-click takes you
to Eventim’s website which is in Polish and English. Add a
little culture to your credit card balance.
Great Theatre (Teatr Wielki) A-1, ul. Fredry 9, tel.
061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. The name is a
bit of a misnomer as the Great Theatre today is home to
Opera and Ballet. Built in 1910 by Max Littman as a city
theatre house for the German population of what was then
Prussian Posen, the last German peformance was held in
1919 before the Wielkopolska Uprising. Plays continued to
be performed until 1924 when it became a full-time home
to Polish Opera. Under the Nazis the building received a
renovation led by the German architect Paul Bankarten
but was soon caught up in the whirlwind of WWII where it
served as a hospital for wounded German soldiers between
1943 and 1945. Despite extensive damage to the city of
Poznan in the German retreat to Berlin, the 'theatre' was
able to begin performances of Opera and Ballet again in
1945, something which has continued to this day. Q Box
office Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed June
28 - September 15. Tickets 10-45zł. Y
Museums
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www.mnp.art.pl.
An excellent museum, whose history dates back to the 1870s,
with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting
impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old
building. The museum also holds the largest collection of
Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Selected
paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist
and topic. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, Sat free. Y
Great theatre
© K. Citak
Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny) G-4, ul. Niezłomnych
1e, tel. 061 852 29 27, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl.
Q Box Office Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 14:00, Sat
15:00 - 18:00, Sun two hours before performance. Closed
June 14 - September 15. Tickets 15-40zł.
Poznań Estrada C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 061 852
88 33, www.estrada.poznan.pl. An organisation which
promotes some of the most interesting cultural and artistic
events from the Polish and International stage. Today it hosts
'Stage on the Floor' where once the famous Teatr Osmego
Dnia (the 8th Day Theatre) used to perform. This was one
of the most successful student originated theatre groups
of its time in the 60's and 70's and Estrada Poznanska are
aiming to recreate the legend. Amongst the 70 or so concerts,
plays and cabaret performances which they promote each
year are 'Made in Jazz', School Confrontations with Art and
Events worth meeting (Imprezy warte Poznania). Check out
their English language website for more details and for dates
of upcoming concerts.
The Ignacy Jan Paderewski Academy of Music in
Poznan (Akademia Muzyczna im. Ignacego Jana
Paderewskiego w Poznaniu) F-3, ul. Św. Marcin 87,
tel. 061 856 89 00, www.amuz.edu.pl.
Theatres
Animation Theatre (Teatr Animacji) A-2, ul. Św.
Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 69 64, www.teatranimacji.
pl. Children's theatre. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 12:00, 15:00
- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon. Tickets 16/14zł.
Eighth Day Theatre (Teatr Ósmego Dnia) B-2, ul.
Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 855 20 86, www.osmego.art.
pl. Alternative theatre. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed July 1 - August 31. Tickets 12-20zł.
New Theatre (Teatr Nowy) E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego
5, tel. 061 847 24 40, www.teatrnowy.pl. Q Box office
Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Closed
June 19 - September 15. Tickets 20-50zł.
Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski) B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia
8/10, tel. 061 852 56 28, www.teatr-polski.pl. Q Box
office Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun on spectacle days only.
Closed Mon. Tickets 20-35zł.
Tickets
City Information Centre B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel.
061 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. The city information
office sells tickets for most concerts also on-line, and can
inform you of the theatre programme. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
July - October 2009
21
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
Animator Festival 2009
06.07 Monday - 11.07 Thursday
tel. 061 852 88 33,
www.animator-festival.
com. Poland’s largest
event honouring the work
of anima tors sees i ts
second staging with the
scope wider than last year.
There’s a retrospective on the achievements of Alexander
Alexeieff, who invented a screen up to the demands of
modern animation techniques. However, it’s not all about
the nitty-gritty of animation per se. There are sessions
focusing on doll theatre and there will be music theatre
and performances. Another accent this year will be on
music and animation with many screenings accompanied
by soundtracks. It all takes place in a number of locations:
Arsenał Gallery (Stary Rynek 3, C-2), Castle Cultural
Centre (ul. Św. Marcina 80-82, A-2), Multikino (ul. Królowej
Jadwigi 51, G-4) and the Festival Club (Stary Rynek, C-2).
There will be indoor and outdoor screenings and that’s
not all, you can attend workshops, meetings, concerts.
The festival will be accompanied by the 2nd International
Animated Film competition where an international jury will
award three main prizes of 60,000, 30,000 and 20,000zł.
There are a number of other attractions including Bring Me
the Head of Ubu Roi and The American Magic-Lantern
Theatre which you can read more about in this section.
There will be a cycle of performances entitled Animation and Musicduring which you can see a presentation
of David Ehrlich films. There will also be a concert by
the rock group Von Zeit with animations created live by
Robert Turło. The group Companiia d’Arte Drummatica
from Italy and jazz group Chicago Underground Trio from
USA will play live music.
Special guests this year will be led by Bill Plympton. This
American director and comics’ author has had his work
published in such magazines as Vanity Fair, The Times
and Vogue. His first film ‘My Face’ brought him an Oscar
nomination.There will also be an appearance by Yoram
Gross, an Australian producer and animation director,
honored at the highest level at home. His major works
include ‘Joseph the Dreamer’,’ Chansons sans Paroles’
and ‘One Pound only’.Also present this year will be Jan
Švankmajer Q Full schedule available at www.animatorfestival.com. Ticket prices coming soon.
08.07 Wednesday
The American Magic-Lantern Theater
A-2, CK Zamek, ul. Św.
Marcin 80/82, tel.
061 646 52 60, www.
animator-festival.com.
T h e A m eri can Ma gi cLan tern Th eatre Company have the distiction
of being the only travelling theatre of its type in
America. For those of you who don’t know, the Victorian
‘Laterna Magica’ is a forgotten performance art, a
mixture of stage play and slides shown with the aid
of a lantern. They have been described as a ‘National
Live Treasure’ by National Public Radio. It’s for free
and sounds well worth the effort.Q Event starts at
16:00. Admission free.
CULTURE & EVENTS
July
17.07 Tuesday - 19.07 Sunday
01.07 Wednesday - 26.08 Wednesday
C-2, Poznań Bazaar, ul. Paderewskiego 8, w w w.
tzadikpoznanfestival.pl. This festi val of ar t, music
and poetr y, which began in 2007, aims to develop a
mul ticul tural dialogue wi th Jewish cul ture in Poznan.
It's par t of a process where Poznan will encounter its
Jewish histor y.The hope is to help revitalise the synagogue and at the same time overcome mutual historic
resentment and encourage reconciliation. This year we
will get a chance to listen to concer ts from the best
Jewish music has to offer:Uri Caine, Mark Feldman, La
Mar Enfor tuna and others. Q Full schedule available at
w w w.tzadikpoznanfestival.pl. Tickets 100-300zł. Available at w w w.eventim.pl.
Old Town Hall Summer Concerts
C-2, Old Town Hall, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 856 81 91,
www.amuz.poznan.pl. These concerts will be performed
by current students, graduates and staff at The I.J. Paderewski Academy of Music in Poznan. They take place every
Wednesday in the Renaissance room at the Old Town Hall.
Admission is free but the audience is limited to 100 people
so get there early to make sure of a seat.Q Concerts start
at 17:00. Admission free.
01.07 Wednesday
Klaus Paier & Radio String Quartet Vienna
A-1, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 0
61 657 07 77, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Austrian Klaus
Paier plays accordion, which makes a change. His music has
been described as spontaneous and combines jazz, tango
nuevo and folk. For this concert he will perform with the Radio
String Quartet of Vienna. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Ticket
prices were undecided at press time. Please check website
for updates as they happen.
08.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Sunday
Flashback Exibition of Hieronim Neumann
C-2, Arsenal City Gallery, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95
01, www.arsenal.art.pl. Hieronim Neumann, for those of
us not au fait with these things, is one of the leading lights in
the Polish experimental animated film movement. In room 1 of
this exhibition there are over 100 stills from his films. Room 2
contains looped fragments of Neumann's animated productions
as well as oil paintings including a 3-metre-long tryptich. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł.
08.07 Wednesday
Jane's Addiction
E-4, Poznań International Fair, Głogowska 14, tel. 061
646 52 43, www.malta-festival.pl. Jane's Addiction
started in 1985, which makes me feel veeery old indeed. This
will be the third reunion for vocalist Perry Farrella, bassist Eric
Avery and the boys. Just think, they almost broke up the band
during recording... their debut album. If you're new to them,
they play mad surfy punk - 'Standing in the shower thinking'
will always be a favourite, the first two albums are classics.Q
Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 95-225zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl.
08.07 Wednesday
Maria Peszek
A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel.
061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. This feisty singer,
songwriter and actress hails from a family of actors and graduated from acting school in Kraków in 2004. In 2005, her debut
album/theatre project, Miasto Mania, went platinum thanks
in part for her penchant for controversial lyrics. Q Concert
starts at 21:00. Ticket prices coming soon.
14.07 Tuesday
Teatro Tascabile
A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel.
061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Since its inception in 1973 this theatre group has put on 105 productions,
performing over 4000 times to a total of almost 1 million
people at the most important theatre festivals all over the
world. Very impressive stuff.Q Event starts at 21:30. Ticket
prices coming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box
office (Open 11:00 - 19:00).
Tzadik Poznań Festiwal
29.07 Wednesday
Tymański Jass Ensemble
09.07 Thursday
Animator Festival - Sacre Proutto
C-1, Scena Na Piętrze, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 061
850 16 55, www.animator-festival.com. This doll play
is a part of “From Pataphisics to Panic” section, don’t try
looking it up in your dictionaries, it isn’t there - you’ll have
to go along and see for yourself. The plot is based on
the story by Roland Topor ‘Sacré Livre de Proutto’ - The
Holy Book of the Damned Proutto and is directed by
Elżbieta Jeznach. Interesting...Q Event starts at 21:00.
Admission free.
09.07 Thursday
Animator Festival - Chicago Underground
Duo
A-2, Castle Cultural Centr e, ul. Św. Mar cina
80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl.
Tymański is a Polish composer, mul ti-instrumentalist,
poet and sin ger. His music can b e describ ed as a
mi xture of jazz, funk, pop and rock, bu t i t is reall y difficul t to categorise. I f that wasn't enough, he has also
composed music to well-known movies including Sz tos
and Wesele. Q Concer t star ts at 21:30. Ticket prices
comming soon. Available at Castle Cul tural Centre box
office (Open 11:00 - 19:00).
August
05.08 Wednesday
Martyna Jakubowicz
A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82,
tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Voted one
of the Top 100 Women in Poland the chanteuse and guitarist
Martyna Jakubowicz has been performing blues since 1981,
with past appearances at some of the biggest musical
events in Poland - Rawa Blues and The Polish Woodstock,
for instance. Tonight she'll be performing the hits that made
her famous. Q Concert starts at 21:30. Ticket prices
coming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office
(Open 11:00 - 19:00).
21.08 Friday - 20.09 Sunday
Painting and Drawing - Artur Nacht-Samborski
C-2, Arsenal City Gallery, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852
95 01, www.arsenal.art.pl. Nacht-Samborski was a
leading representative of the art movement known as the
Sopot School. In his work he focussed mainly on 3 subjects,
still life, women and landscapes, exploring them in a myriad
of ways.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 3/2zł.
25.08 Tuesday
Nazareth
Eskulap, ul. Pr zybys zewskiego 39 (Grunwald),
tel. 0 607 81 62 70, w w w.eskulap.ar t.pl. 1968
wa s a go o d y e a r i n S c o t l a n d . T h e y h a d b e a t e n
E n glan d a t Wem bl ey t h e summ er b efore an d t h e
last stra g gl ers of th e Tar tan Arm y finall y mad e i t
h om e. I t also saw th e foun din g of ro ck b eh emoth s
Na zareth. This summ er se es th em visi t Polan d for
a tour aroun d 12 ci ties as well as an appearan ce a t
th e Ro ck Legen ds Festi val in Słupsk wh ere we can
expe c t to h ear old favouri tes an d ma terial from last
year's album 'Th e Newz'. Q Concer t star ts at 20:00.
Ti cke t pri c e s were un d e ci d e d a t pre s en t. Ch e ck
websi te for upda tes as th ey happen.
C-2, Ar t Passage, Rynek Główny, tel. w w w.
animator-festival.com, w w w.animator-festival.
com. The Chicago Underground Duo are Rob Mazurek
and Chad Taylor. Mazurek is a cornetist, composer
and multimedia artist. He is the founder and leader of
the Exploding Star Orchestra, Chicago Underground,
Mandarin Movie and Sao Paulo Underground, all well
known on the Chicago music scene. Taylor drums
in this duo as well as regularly performing with Fred
Anderson and other top Chicago jazzmen at the
legendar y Velvet Lounge club. Q Concer t star ts at
22:00. Admission Free.
11.07 Saturday
Animation and Music - „Bring Me the Head
of Ubu Roi” Pere Ubu & the Quay Brothers
A-2, Castle Cultural
Centre, Pl. Sejmu
Sląskiego 2, tel. 061
646 52 60, w w w.
animator-f estival.
com. An anima te d
event prepared by arty
rock group Pere Ubu
and talented British
animators, the Quai brothers. It will be based on themes
from ‘Ubu King’ - a play by Alfred Jerry which had its
premiere in 2008 at Queen Elizabeth Hall. Lasting over
100 minutes, it is divided into 2 parts. The author of the
script is the leader of Pere Ubu, David Thomas, and he
and the boys will perform live music alongside the special
multimedia animation. Great stuff, Pere Ubu in Poland,
whatever next?! Q Event starts at 19:00. Ticket prices
coming soon.
July - October 2009
23
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
Poznań Philharmonic
Poznań Philharmonic (Filharmonia
Poznańska) C-2, ul.
Św. Marcin 81, tel. 061
852 47 08, www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl. The
Poznań Philharmonic can
trace its origins back to
the end of Prussian rule
after the Wielkopolska Uprising of 1919. Over a decade
of irregular performances followed until a huge effort was
made in the early 1930s by a group of influential musicians to establish a strong organisation in the city. This
effort was helped by the local newspaper Kurier Poznanski
and the first performance of the city’s Philharmonia, unofficially named the Poznań Philharmonic, took place on the
14th of October 1931.
After the trauma of WWII, the Philharmonia was reborn,
initally under the title of the Workers’ Philharmonic Society
and opened its first season as the Poznań Philharmonic
once again in 1947. Today, the concerts of the Poznań Philharmonic are held in the historic auditorium of the Adam
Mickiewicz University. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets 15-40zł.
25.08 Tuesday
Radiohead
H-1, Cytadela Park, al. Armii Poznań, tel. 061 646 52
43, www.malta-festival.pl. This concert is part of a festival
called "Poznań for the Earth". It's Radiohead’s first visit since
1994; they performed at that year's Rock-In fest and deemed
it so badly organised they never bothered coming back - until
now, happily. As we know, this sort of thing is up eco-warrior
Radiohead's alley - they always choose venues which are
accessible by public transport, they don't travel by plane
and they are kind to small animals. Get your skates on as
tickets will go fast!QTickets 95-220zł. Time was undecided
at press time. Please check website for updates as they
happen. Available at www.eventim.pl.
26.08 Wednesday
Komety
A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061
646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Popular alternative rock
group Komety are one of the few groups to have struck out on
their own outside Polish boundaries, playing in the US, France,
Finland, Japan and Russia. Influenced by 50s rock music, we'll
also hear covers of songs by the Ramones, the Clash and Elvis.
Q Concert starts at 21:00. Ticket prices comming soon. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00).
September
03.09 Thursday
Lao Che
A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcina 80/82, tel. 061
646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Check out some history
with Lao Che. Their first CD "Gusła" dealt with mysterious Slavic
tribes in the middle ages. They then moved onto to "Powstanie
Warszawskie", a song by song account of the Warsaw Uprising.
Now they will be presenting songs from the new CD "Gospel" - a
record of contemporary human weakness and wickedness sounds very odd, worth an evening of anyone's time. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Ticket prices comming soon. Available at Castle
Cultural Centre box office (Open 11:00 - 19:00).
CULTURE & EVENTS
05.09 Saturday - 06.09 Sunday
Pyrlandia Days
G-5, Park Jana Pawła II, ul. Dolna Wilda,, tel. 061 861
11 75, www.dnipyrlandii.pl. Potatoes go by the name
of ziemniaki in Poland but there are some regional variations such as kartofel in the Gdańsk region and Pyry in
the Poznań region. The people of Poznań are sometimes
referred to by this name to highlight that they have slightly
different customs and traditions. In a tongue in cheek
reference to this nickname, the ‘Pyrlandia Days' festival
is a celebration of all thing Poznań. During this two day
festival you will be able to view and experience Poznań
culture as presented through the clothes, customs and
food of the local people. In addition there will be a series
of concerts which in the past have seen both Polish and
International stars come to Poznań to perform as well as
choirs, orchestras, dance and theatrical groups. Now in
its 7th year it has become a family celebration and there
are various events to entertain young or old. There will
be many open air competitions, a football match, fun
and games for kids organized by the sponsors and a
spectacular firework display. The Pyrlandia Days Festival
aims to present and maintain the Polish and particularly
Poznań culture of its citizens while at the same time
presenting it to non-locals in a friendly climate with lots
of food, music and fun. Q Events take place from 14:00
to 21:00. Admission free.
07.09 Monday - 09.09 Wednesday
EuroBasket 2009
Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. 061 866 60
31, www.eurobasket09.pl. The European Basketball
Championship of 2009 are universally referred to as EuroBasket 2009. It's the 36th championship held by FIBA
VI Int. Dance Theatre Fest.
15.08 Sunday - 21.08 Wednesday
VI International Dance Theatre Festival
Event takes place in
various locations. Check
despription f or mor e
info, tel. 061 852 40 08,
www.ptt-poznan.pl. This
festival has taken place
since 2004 in conjunction
with the International Contemporary Dance Workshops,
both organised by the Polish Dance Theatre in Poznań.
The workshops start on 15th August at 9:00 and finish
on 22nd at 22:40. 10 instructors from all over the world
will give 8 1,5 hour sessions. You can sign up for them
only on the internet at the Polish Dance Theatre website
as long as there are free places on the list; so if you are
feeling adventurous, get a move on. The workshops
have 3 levels depending on your modern dance skills
and physical fitness, but there’s something for everyone.
The theatre groups coming from Israel, Spain, France,
Hungary, Sweden, Slovenia and Japan will present the
freshest trends from the world of contemporary dance.
It’s all about pushing dance forward, exploring new areas,
crossing political and social borders in terms of style and
genre so come along and prepare to be amazed. The
performances take place in the Polish Theatre, B-2, ul. 27
Grudnia 8/10, the Animation Theatre, A-2, ul. Św. Marcin
80/82 and the School of Ballet courtyard, C-2, ul. Gołębia
9 Q Ticket prices coming soon. Event starts at 9:00. Full
schedule available at www.ptt-poznan.pl.
Europe and this year comes to Poland from September 7th
to September 20th. Poznan will see 1st group (A) phase
at the 4200-seat Hala Arena. The timetable goes like this:
7.09 16:30 Macedonia - Greece, Croatia - Israel 8.09.2009
16:30 Israel - Macedonia, Greece - Croatia. 9.09. 16:30
Macedonia - Croatia, Israel - Greece.QTickets 80-160zł.
Available at eventim.pl.
October
11.10 Sunday
X Poznań Marathon
K-4, ul. Baraniaka, tel. 061 835 79 17, www.marathon.poznan.pl. Marathons in Poland don't come any
bigger than the Poznań Marathon, this year celebrating its
10th anniversary. Over the previous 9 races 17 473 runners from 42 countries have taken part. Guests have included Irena Szewińska and legendary Polish walker and
triple Olympic gold winner Robert Korzeniowski. At the top
sports awards last year it won the prize for the best organised mass spor ts even t so expect thin gs to go
smoothly. It's not just about running, blisters and stitch
though, there are other events like the Expo fair, breakfast
run and a run for children. This year for the first time blind
and partially sighted athletes will take part, go along and
lend your support.Q Marathon starts at 10:00. Registration fee 60zł.
12.10 Monday - 14.10 Wednesday
Poznań Live Festival
A-1, Collegium Minus, Wieniawskiego 1, tel. 061 656
25 56, www.nuova.pl. Building off of last year’s success,
this world music festival takes its second curtain call with
a lineup of esteemed artists from Lisbon’s Fado music
circle. Fado, characterised by mournful tunes and nostalgic lyrics takes it’s roots from Portuguese sailor music,
African slave rhythyms and the region’s Arabic influence.
Often referred to as Portuguese blues, two of fado’s biggest stars will be in Poznań - Camene and Madredeus
- prolific in promoting Fado beyond the seaside districts
of Lisbon where is style originated. Camene, fado’s most
recognisable name, has been called “the biggest fadist
since Amalia Rodigues and Maria da Fe” by David Bret,
Britain’s fado specialist. If that doesn’t mean any thing
to you, this is your opportunity to get hip to some new
music. The concert programme will be supplemented by
several related films, including cult director Wim Wender’s
“Lisbon Story” and Carlos Saura’s “Fados” - two films
rich in dance, music and coastal culture. Screenings will
take place at Cinema Muza (B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 30). Q
Full schedule available at www.nuova.pl. Ticket prices
and time were undecided at press time. Please check
website for updates as they happen.
July - October 2009
25
26
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Symbol key
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P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
C Swimming pool
D Sauna
W Wi-Fi
In most hotels prices shoot up during fairs and they can
hardly be called fair rates. Rooms rates tend to double
during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem
fairs and prices will fluctuate according to the importance
of the fair. On the plus side most hotels offer substantial
weekend discounts. Prices listed include breakfast and
VAT unless otherwise noted. Hotels list their prices in
either złoty, euro or US dollars - either way your bill will
be calculated using the exchange rate of the day and
presented to you in local currency.
Upmarket
T. +48 618590 590 F.+48 618590 591
[email protected]
www.dominahotels.com
Lodgings at a Glance
Splurge You’ll struggle to find a more expensive hotel in
Poland, but by the same measure you’re unlikely to find
a better one. The Blow Up Hall has to count as Europe’s
most hi-tech hotel, and has opened to gushing reviews
from guests and media alike. For more conventional
luxury book into the ever reliable Sheraton, or make a
note to check out the high rise IBB Andersia.
Couples The Fancy House is a great boutique effort
with themed rooms clearly decorated by a loving hand.
Alternatively head out of town – Palac Wasowo offers
fairytale accommodation with lodgings in either thatched
cottages, a baroque mansion or a neo Gothic Palace;
perfect for a saucy break in the country. Closer to Poz
then look at Zagroda Bamberska, a rustic effort with
great rooms and private gardens.
Lads If there’s a group of you then try the Novotel Poznan
Centrum or the Mercure. Both offer modern comforts,
high standards and plenty of rooms. You might be looking
to avoid awkward confrontations with cleaning staff and
receptionists, in which case consider going self catering
and renting an apartment – Domina offer the classiest
deal of the lot and are right in the centre.
Budget There’s now a load of hostels to choose from,
and our favourite has to be Fusion, a hyper modern space
with everything the backpacker requires – including a
shed load of computers, great common room and bathrooms that don’t smell of vomit. Close by both Cinnamon
and Frolic Goats also get a thumbs up.
Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99
80, fax 061 657 99 81, reservation@blowuphall5050.
com, www.blowuphall5050.com. If you want wow factor
then look no further, the Blow Up Hall is the most exciting
hotel development Poznan, maybe even Poland, has ever
seen. Attached to the Stary Browar building this is little less
than a work of art. Designed by Tadao Ando, and based on a
project by Rafael Lozano-Hemmer, the aim of this hotel is to
allow guests to ‘experience and participate in the creation of
art’. Pretentious? You bet. But who cares, if there’s one place
you should scrimp and save to stay in, it’s this one. Perks
include in house spa, butler service, Bang & Olufsen equipment, DVDs on request and iphones for guests. There’s little
point in describing the individually designed rooms, suffice to
say they make use of the latest fads, trends and techno gimmickery; you really have to see it to believe it. Q22 rooms (22
singles €202 - 310, 22 doubles €202 - 310). PALGW
Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. 061 858 68 68, fax
061 858 68 69, [email protected], www.brovaria.pl.
The lower floors are home to one of Poland’s only micro-breweries, and if that doesn’t convince you to stay, then a quick look
around the rooms will. Furnished with taste rooms bridge the
gap between contemporary styles and the classic touches their
old town location deserves. Cream coloured accommodation
includes cable TV, dataports and complicated flower arrangements, and some have views overlooking the main square.
Q21 rooms (3 singles 250 - 430zł, 17 doubles 290 - 490zł,
1 apartment 430 - 600zł). PTJHARKW hhh
City Park Residence ul. Wyspiańskiego 26 (Grunwald), tel. 061 221 84 00, fax 061 221 84 02, [email protected], www.cityparkresidence.com.
pl. An oasis of opulence and class the Notus offers luxury
accommodation in a low-level fin de siècle building, whose
exterior makes use of sandblasted brickwork and plenty of
glass. Rooms are nothing less than the final word in designer
living and sport 32 inch flatscreen TVs, king size beds, safe
and work desk, while the bathrooms come dripping with
generous bathtubs. But there is bad news - there’s no minibar, bar or restaurant, while the skylights desperately need
the addition of curtains. Still, kitchenettes and a nearby sushi
restaurant and wine bar paper over these cracks, while the
swimming pool - set under a curvy glass roof - is one of the
seven wonders of Poznań.Q88 rooms (88 apartments 285
- 800zł). PTHARLGDC
Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2,
tel. 061 859 05 90, fax 061 859 05 91, prestige@
dominahotels.pl, www.dominahotels.com. Domina offers
luxury serviced apartments, packed with designer trappings
and gadgets. Top-class accommodation comes with sound
system, bathrobes and fully fitted lounge and kitchen areas
included in the price.Q40 rooms (40 apartments 399 820zł). PTARLGW hhhh
'JSTUJO1PMBOE
'JSTUJO1P[OBǩ
HP Park K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. 061 874 11 00, fax 061
874 12 00, [email protected], www.hotelepark.pl. Tidy
rooms a stone’s throw from Lake Malta. Pastel coloured rooms
come with uniform three star accessories: telephone, cable TV
and minibar, with all accommodation bearing the benefit of a recent refurb.Q98 rooms (97 singles 310 - 520zł, 97 doubles 380 620zł, 1 apartment 600 - 800zł). PTHAUGKW hhh
IBB Andersia Hotel G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667
80 00, fax 061 667 80 01, rezerwacja@andersiahotel.
pl, www.andersiahotel.pl. The location is unbeatable,
with the Stary Browar shopping centre next door and the old
town a shot away. Included in the deal are an indoor pool, airconditioning throughout, and top-band conference facilities.
Fitted with plasma screens and heated bathroom floors this is
a choice pampering experience, with window side sofas proving a great spot to enjoy your complimentary morning paper.
Long term guests have the choice of three luxury apartments
located on the upper floors.Q171 rooms (105 singles 460 820zł, 42 doubles 525 - 885zł, 24 apartments 545 - 2700zł).
PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh
On the Trams
Painted in natty green and yellow colours the trams of Poznań
have been zipping the locals to work since 1880, when Otto
Reymer and Masch convinced the town council Poznań was
ready to take a step into the future. Drawn by horses the
first tram made its debut on July 31, clip-clopping down from
the main station to the market square. Yet while trams were
catching on across Europe, the Poznań version faced an
ignominuous beginning. The German natives were suspicious
of this new-fangled mode of transport, while the Poles refused
to take them on account of their timetables and signs: in German only. So within weeks of launching their venture Reymer
and Masch hit bankruptcy, and were forced into selling their
brainchild to the Poznań Horse Railway Society. The new guys
fared admirably better, and on March 6, 1898, the horse drawn
trams were replaced by electrically operated ones. World War
II saw most trams headed for the barricades in a last ditch
attempt to stem the Red Army advance, and it wasn’t until
1952 that Poznań’s city centre was once more capable of
hosting a tram network. The routes running through the old
town were discontinued, though alternative ones were being
added at an aggressive rate. Today the city has approximately
66km of tracks, of which six kilometres is taken by the express
Poznański Szybki Tramwaj. Work on this bugger commenced in
1975 when local authorities realized the importance of linking
the suburban tower blocks with the rest of the city, though
a mixture of mismanagement and lack of funds meant that
it was only completed in 1997. It was worth the wait. Hitting
speeds of 70km/hr, the PST (or Pestka in local lingo) has
cut journey time to the centre by 30 minutes, and plans are
afoot to add even more routes to Poznań’s outlying districts.
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July - October 2009
27
28
WHERE TO STAY
Mat’s ul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. 061 868 78
31, fax 061 861 41 78, [email protected], www.hotelmats.pl. An engaging combination of classic and modern;
antique clocks and rococo-style armchairs next to shining
glass and tennis courts. This is not your standard three
star venture, and as such is well worth the taxi ride from the
city centre. Rooms have had a thorough refit in the last few
months, cementing the status of Mat’s as one of Poznań’s
premier choices. Q35 rooms (3 singles 219 - 449zł, 21
doubles 269 - 549zł, 9 suites 309 - 599zł, 2 apartments
369 - 629zł). PHARULGKDW hhh
WHERE TO STAY
Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061
858 71 51, fax 061 833 29 61, [email protected],
www.accorhotels.com. Smart, newly-renovated rooms
found inside one of the tallest hotels in the city. Each room
comes with pristine bathroom, dataport, CNN and minibar.
Q480 rooms (160 singles 256 - 844zł, 310 doubles 256 844zł, 10 apartments 406 - 1037zł). Breakfast 60zł. Also
check with the hotel for special daily prices. POTHA
RUFGKW hhh
Mercure Poznań E-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. 061
855 80 00, fax 061 855 89 55, rez.mer.poznan@orbis.
pl, www.accorhotels.com. A two-minute walk for the
International Trade Fair, so no prizes for guessing that most
visitors hail from the business community. Excellent conference facilities and modern rooms equipped with dataports
and cable TV. Q228 rooms (227 singles 269 - 919zł, 227
doubles 269 - 919zł, 1 apartment 1000 - 1750zł). Breakfast
65zł. PTHARUFLGKDW hhhh
Novotel Poznań Malta K-3, ul. Warszawska 64/66,
tel. 061 654 31 00, fax 061 654 31 95, [email protected], www.accorhotels.com. A cost-effective, squat
hotel on the edges of Lake Malta. You know what you’re
getting with Novotel, and all codes of Western practice
are tightly observed. Staff have been programmed to
show patience and good humour, while rooms are bright
and modern. Q149 rooms (149 singles 179 - 639zł, 149
doubles 179 - 639zł). Breakfast 44zł. Also check with the
hotel for special daily prices. TYHARUFLG
KCW hhh
NH Poznań A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. 061 624 88
Royal A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. 061 858 23 00,
00, fax 061 624 88 01, [email protected],
www.nh-hotels.com. The NH wins our favour for the fully
restored art nouveau frontage, behind which guests will find
an upscale four star endeavor that fully warrants the slightly
steep prices. Check-in is conducted in a sleek room walled
with dark woods, while sleeping is reserved for stylishly
simple bedrooms, kitted out with puffy beds, rich colours,
wood floors and a chic ‘less is more’ fashion.Q93 rooms
(93 singles €89 - 119, 93 doubles €89 - 119). Breakfast €17.
PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
fax 061 858 23 06, [email protected], www.
hotel-royal.com.pl. Plenty of character and history inside
this courtyard hotel. Having served as army HQ during
the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising, Royal is decorated with
wood panelling, floral-patterned duvets and plum colour
schemes. The Mr Fix-It staff can organize everything from
car rentals to sightseeing tours, while guests can also enjoy
a 24hr bar. Q31 rooms (9 singles 224 - 380zł, 14 doubles
294 - 460zł, 7 suites 315 - 485zł, 1 apartment 350 - 535zł).
HALGW hhh
Sheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel.
061 655 20 00, fax 061 655 20 01, reservations.
[email protected], www.sheraton.pl/poznan/.
Just steps away from the Trade Fair, though this is more
than the business travellers choice. The Sheraton Poznan is
the number one hotel in town, with a chic modern style that
covers every inch of the hotel. Accommodation comes with
flat screen TVs, walk-in showers, top-notch sound proofing
and the most comfortable beds in the country. Head to the
upper floors to enjoy facilities like the swimming pool and
fitness room, or check out the executive lounge for video
games, magazines and beverages. It’s very impressive, but
what really stands out here are the staff; experts in hospitality. Q181 rooms (168 singles 370 - 1000zł, 168 doubles
370 - 1000zł, 13 apartments 615 - 4220zł). Breakfast 90zł.
Tax 7%. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Stare Miasto (The Old Town) C-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel.
061 659 00 43, fax 061 663 62 42, [email protected], www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. Prim rooms
fully deserving the three stars they have been granted. All
come with ensuite bathrooms and internet access, and given
the old town location are surprisingly large. The studio and
apartment are also open for business and are fully air-conditioned. A conference room is available for up to 40 people,
air-conditioned with a screen, projector and sound system.
Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q23 rooms (3
singles 195 - 345zł, 18 doubles 255 - 475zł, 1 suite 275 530zł, 1 apartment 350 - 690zł). PJHARGW hhh
Trawiński G-1, ul. Żniwna 2, tel. 061 827 58 00, fax
061 820 57 81, [email protected], www.
hoteltrawinski.com.pl. Swish rooms with modern trappings,
yellowish colour schemes and adjustable air-conditioning.
Tucked on a quiet rise overlooking Citadel Park. On-site facilities also include hairdresser and the full line of conference
services. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q58
rooms (15 singles 240 - 365zł, 36 doubles 299 - 490zł, 5
suites 390 - 590zł, 1 apartment 900 - 1200zł). PTHA
RUFLGKD hhhh
Vivaldi G-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. 061 858 81 00, fax
061 853 29 77, [email protected], www.vivaldi.pl. A
curvy, futuristic exterior shields one of Poznań’s premier
hotels. Upscale and comfortable, the highlight has to be the
two-level suite, with a downstairs bedroom accessed by a
set of spiral stairs. Rooms come armed with all the modern
trappings, including dataports and mini-bars. Q48 rooms
(38 singles 260 - 490zł, 9 doubles 390 - 690zł, 1 apartment
710 - 820zł). PTHARLGKDCW hhhh
Alex Webber
July - October 2009
29
30
WHERE TO STAY
Mid-range
Astra ul. Lutycka 31 (Jeżyce), tel./fax 061 848 94
72, [email protected], www.astra.ta.pl. With its vertical
‘HOTEL’ sign and roadside location Astra could easily be a
motel in Nowhere, USA. Sterile and overpriced, the weary
furnishings need an immediate update. Six kilometres from
town, so add taxi fares to the price. Q12 rooms (5 doubles
220 - 460zł, 6 triples 320 - 620zł, 1 quad 420 - 750zł).
HAUGKW hh
Campanile E-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. 061 845
66 00, fax 061 845 66 01, [email protected].
pl, www.campanile.com.pl. The Poznań Campanile is
everything we’ve come to expect from such a good value
chain; high standard modern rooms furnished with a colourful flourish. Bathtubs, net connection and cable TV come as
standard. Q80 rooms (76 singles 179 - 279zł, 76 doubles
179 - 279zł, 4 apartments 240 - 339zł). Breakfast 32zł.
PTHARULGKW hh
Derby ul. Lutycka 34 (Wola), tel./fax 061 848 30 97,
[email protected], www.hipodromwola.com.
pl. Owned by the Polish Equestrian Federation though it’s
unlikely you’ll meet any Arab racehorse owners in this glum
excuse for a hotel. Rooms are clean, but the furniture belongs
in history. Even the plastic flowers are wilting. Surprisingly, the
restaurant serves good Lithuanian meals. Q43 rooms (41
singles 100 - 180zł, 41 doubles 120 - 250zł, 1 suite 240 290zł, 1 apartment 270 - 330zł). AKW hh
Dorrian ul. Wyspiańskiego 29 (Grunwald), tel. 061 867
45 22, fax 061 867 45 59, [email protected], www.
dorrian.pl. Dorrian catches the eye (literally) with pleasantly
modern rooms, impeccable service and some shocking co-
WHERE TO STAY
lours. They’ve got a captive audience what with the Trade
Fair next door, so it comes as no shock to find the prices a
little inflated.Q18 rooms (18 singles 190 - 590zł, 17 doubles
210 - 590zł). PHAUGKW hhh
Feniks ul. Czeremchowa 26 (Wilda), tel./fax 061
832 60 75, [email protected], www.feniks.
poznan.pl. Essentially decent apartments decorated with
lurid yellow colour schemes that bring to mind a field of sick
daffodils. Housed inside a modern, suburban townhouse,
Feniks appears geared towards the traveller with agrophobia;
all rooms have kitchens, private bathrooms and lounges
furnished in a generic showroom style, meaning there’s no
reason to stray further than the front porch.Q18 rooms (16
singles 150 - 180zł, 8 doubles 210 - 280zł, 2 apartments
320 - 360zł). HALGW hh
NEW
Gaja E-3, ul. Gajowa 12, tel. 061 223 20 01, fax 061 842
01 48, [email protected], www.gaja-hotel.pl/hotel.
Absolutely typical of the mid-bracket hotels found across
Poland. Pleasant rooms come decorated with blue carpets
and oil paintings, while bathrooms are in the Polish hoteliers
dream colour: brown. Q39 rooms (10 singles 160 - 260zł,
24 doubles 240 - 340zł, 1 quad 420 - 520zł, 4 apartments
280 - 380zł). ARGK
Gromada ul. Babimojska 7 (Grunwald), tel. 061 866 92
07, fax 061 867 31 61, [email protected], www.
gromada.pl. A large, ugly block conceals dull, unimaginative
accommodation. But while Gromada won’t win points for
beauty it’s clean, cheap and only a kilometre from the city
centre, and that’s good enough for some.Q73 rooms (70
232 - 590zł). THAULGKD hhh
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Henlex ul. Spławie 43 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 879
87 71, fax 061 870 59 03, henlex@hotel-henlex.
com.pl, www.hotel-henlex.com.pl. From the outside
this stark, sand-coloured block appears quite forbidding,
and the neon hotel sign adds to an eerie look that David
Lynch would love. Step through the glass doors and Henlex
takes on another guise: that of a superb mid-range hotel.
Completed only recently rooms are furnished with soft
colours and modern finishes - with corner bathtubs in the
suites. Finnish sauna also onsite. Note that not all rooms
have air conditioning. Q22 rooms (20 singles 140 - 200zł,
19 doubles 170 - 370zł, 2 apar tments 295 - 560zł).
PTAGKDW hhh
Hotel 222 E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. 061 869
91 40, fax 061 868 53 52, hotel222@hotel222.
com.pl, www.hotel222.com.pl. Excellent hotel with
an absurd position atop of a shopping mall. Bright, modern rooms and a crimson restaurant in which to enjoy
breakfast. Trams N°6 & 13 stop right on the doorstep.
Note that not all rooms have air condi tioning. Q 51
rooms (51 singles 150 - 399zł, 51 doubles 170 - 499zł).
PHARKXW hh
Hotel System Premium ul. Lechicka 101 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. 061 821 07 00, fax 061 821 07 70,
[email protected], www.hotelsystem.pl.
A high standard, hi-tech affair featuring pleasant cream
colour schemes and that great rarity in Poznań - a topnotch hotel swimming pool. And there’s no problem if
you left that laptop in the strip club; each room comes
equipped wi th i ts own PC. Q 107 rooms (47 singles
229 - 424zł, 53 doubles 229 - 459zł, 7 apar tments
329 - 609zł). Breakfast 35zł. PTHARUFL
GKDCW hhh
NEW
Hotel Włoski G-5, ul. Dolna Wilda 8, tel. 061 833 52
hotelwloski.pl. A fabulous newbie set behind a historic
looking façade. This could be one of the fairest deals in
the city, with rooms boasting a traditional style consisting
of artwork and classic wood fixtures - if that’s not enough,
then they’ll even scatter the bed with rose petals and flowers. Free wifi and some decent TV channels complete the
picture. Q70 rooms (70 doubles 197 - 287zł). Breakfast
29zł. PTHARLGKW hhh
Ibis H-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. 061 858
44 00, fax 061 858 44 44, [email protected],
ww w.accorhotels.com. If any thing goes wrong, the
staff get 15 minutes to fix it - other wise you stay for
free. I t’s almost tempting to sabotage the plumbing,
but why would you want to. Ibis offers smashing value
in clean, generic rooms. Q 146 rooms (146 singles
185 - 399zł, 146 doubles 185 - 399zł). Breakfast 29zł.
PTJHAUGKW hh
Ikar G-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. 061 658 71 05, fax
061 851 58 67, [email protected], www.hotelikar.
com.pl. Located on the edge of Old Town and about a
ten-minute drive from the train station, Ikar is modest
but pleasant, with a lot of polished stone and wood,
rattan furniture and Art Nouveau-style light fixtures. One
of the nine floors was recently renovated, and all rooms
have satellite TV, a phone, a fridge and a bathroom with
a shower. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning.
Q 144 rooms (57 singles 180 - 350zł, 80 doubles 260 510zł, 7 suites 310 - 590zł). PJHARULGK
hhh
Local Football
Last issue we reported that local side Lech Poznan
stood on the verge of greatness. Well, predictably
almost, they fell off that vertiginous height, and ended
the season third in the title race, five points behind
champions Wisla Krakow. After leading the league
for so long Poznan fell away during the crucial run-in,
fading fast the moment the pressure mounted. Consolation of sorts was found in the Polish Cup however,
and the local side edged the final with a 1-0 victory
over Ruch Chorzow. But that’s not been enough – head
coach Franciszek Smuda has left amid (far-fetched)
rumours linking him to Celtic, and his departure could
well spark an exodus of players. First off the boat
could well be inspirational midfielder Semir Stilic
with front man Robert Lewandowski likely to join him.
The 20 year old forward, who finished as the team’s
top scorer with 13 goals, has already declared his
desire to leave Poznan in the national tabloids. ‘I’ve
made a decision about my future’, Lewandowski told
Fakt newspaper, ‘I want to leave Lech this summer
to join Borussia Dortmund’. The want-away striker
has already rebuffed overtures from Napoli and is
expected to command a fee in excess of five million
euro. Also looking to move on are midfielders Tomasz
Bandrowski and Rafal Murawski, with Birmingham City
looking the likely destination for the pair. In return
Jacek Zielinski, freshly installed as manager of Lech,
will be looking to bring in Piast Gliwice’s Kamil Glik and
Grzegorz Kasprzik. Either way, with the break-up of the
side imminent, another title challenge looks unlikely.
July - October 2009
31
32
WHERE TO STAY
Lech A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. 061 853 01 51, fax
hotel-lech.poznan.pl. Lech presents large, spotless rooms
complete with satellite TV, dataports and bathrooms. Planted
in the middle of Poznań, so no need for taxis. Q79 rooms
(34 singles 142 - 310zł, 44 doubles 234 - 430zł, 4 triples
346 - 530zł, 1 apartment 254 - 580zł). JARKX hh
Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37
(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, fax 061 878 99
22, [email protected], www.mlynskiekolo.pl.
Outstanding accommodation inside an atmospheric timber
lodge. Rooms, named after the seasons, feature hand-carved
furniture, fresh flowers and paintings of peasant life. The
‘May’ apartment comes with a circular Roman bath, perfect
for savouring the good life. Downstairs the restaurant serves
big portions of hunter-ish dishes like duck, boar and ribs. Q14
apartments 500 - 580zł). TAGKW
Meridian E-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. 061
656 53 53, fax 061 656 55 26, hotel@hotelmeridian.
com.pl, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. A charismatic hotel
with the appeal of a private villa. The picturesque location on
the fringes of a forest is complimented by warm earth tones in
the rooms and all expected 21st century trimmings: cable TV,
air conditioning, etc. Q10 rooms (10 singles 130 - 320zł, 10
doubles 170 - 360zł). PYHAKXW hhh
Olimpia ul. Taborowa 8 (Grunwald), tel. 061 864 42
00, fax 061 864 42 06, [email protected].
pl, www.reges.pl/olimpia.htm. This ugly concrete block
serves as a marvellous blast-to-the-past, with musty furnishings straight from the Cold War era. Basic, dated and gloomy,
though the relative proximity to the Trade Fair keeps it ticking
WHERE TO STAY
over with a stream of bewildered looking business travellers.
6 triples 300 - 390zł, 3 suites 330 - 430zł). HALK
Polonez G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36, tel. 061 864 71
situations by asking for one of the renovated rooms.Q87
suite 375 - 660zł, 5 apartments 330 - 570zł). TJHA
RUGKW hhh
accorhotels.com. Brownish rooms in an enormous block
on the northern edges of the centre. While the unimaginative accommodation does little to feed the creative spirit, all
rooms have telephone, satellite TV and dataports. There’s
a surprisingly good gift shop on the ground floor. Q369
apartments 190 - 480zł). Breakfast 35zł. OTYHA
RULGKDW hhh
T&T ul. Metalowa 4 (Górczyn), tel. 061 864 12 81, fax
061 864 12 82, [email protected], www.hoteltt.
com.pl. Situated at the end of a dead-end street, and with
a tram stop and taxi rank just around the corner, T&T has
spacious rooms that keep the business traveller in mind.
Intriguingly, not even the staff know what T&T stands for.
Q17 rooms (15 singles 185 - 510zł, 15 doubles 225 560zł, 2 apartments 295 - 650zł). PHARUGKD
hhh
Rezydencja Solei D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 855 73
Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061
842 77 90, fax 061 842 77 91, info@zagrodabamberska.
pl, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Wooden beams, patterned
rugs and sturdy wooden furniture create a rural ambience in
this recently renovated farm-style annex. For summer the
garden boasts a huge open-air barbecue, and a collection of
wood carved animals to trip over. Q10 rooms (7 singles 270
- 342zł, 7 doubles 300 - 380zł, 3 apartments 350 - 490zł).
THALGKW hhh
hotel-solei.pl. Squirreled away just beyond Old Town Square
Solei present compact rooms decorated with floral patterns,
IKEA water colours and wood furniture. It’s on a quiet street,
but close to all the action, though prices sky-rocket during
trade fairs. A sister hotel, Rezydencja Solei (ul. Wałecka 2,
tel. 061 847 58 38) offers much the same though is usually fully booked with groups using the conference facilities.
Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q11 rooms (9
330 - 589zł). PAGW
Rzymski C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. 061 852
hotelrzymski.pl. Right in the city centre, so do ask for a
room facing away from the street if you don’t wish to be
woken by a dawn chorus of trams and refuse trucks. Rooms
are pleasantly decorated in brownish colours, and while spotless the bathrooms come with a well-used musk - avoid such
Budget
Gold E-4, ul. Bukowska 127a, tel. 061 842 07 74, fax
061 842 07 73, [email protected], www.goldhotel.
pl. A small suburban hotel with boxy modern rooms complete
with sliding bathroom doors and a vase of sweets on the
reception desk. A very decent, budget option. Close to the
airport, so expect to be travelling to and from town by chariot.
Q11 rooms (11 singles 150 - 170zł, 11 doubles 190 - 210zł).
TAXW hh
Hotel Księcia Józefa ul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Mi-
asto), tel. 061 872 63 19, fax 061 879 86 55, hotel@hotelkj.
pl, www.hotelkj.pl. A lovely little deal that almost fools guests into
thinking they’ve stepped into a fairytale forest. Everything from the
twisty wrought iron banisters to weird mottled wallpaper alludes to
the outdoors, and never more so than inside the Narnia style restaurant. While they’ve been designed to look olde world the rooms
are positively 21st century, and complete with flatscreen TVs and
those trendy standalone sinks.Q14 rooms (1 single 140 - 195zł,
13 doubles 140 - 195zł). Breakfast 25zł. ARGKW hhh
Mini Hotelik A-3, Al. Niepodległości 8a (entrance from ul.
Taylora), tel. 061 633 14 16, fax 061 633 18 60, bartlomiej.
[email protected], www.trans-tor.poznan.pl. Not much chance of
finding English spoken here, though sign language is always enough
to get a place at one of the best budget deals in town. Spotless
rooms occupy the top floor of a residential building, and though
some share bathroom facilities the small scale of this operation
guarantees queues for your morning shower are unlikely. Rooms
come with TV and furniture that is kept religiously scrubbed. If
you're returning late you'll need to buzzed in by a member of staff.
Q11 rooms (2 singles 64 - 118zł, 5 doubles 128 - 160zł, 3 triples
193 - 225zł, 1 apartment 160 - 224zł). No breakfast served. G
Naramowice ul. Naramowicka 150 (Stare MiastoNaramowice), tel. 061 822 75 43, fax 061 820 27 81,
[email protected], www.naramowice.pl. An ugly
concrete building that wouldn't be out of place on a council
estate hides a perfectly acceptable interior. The rooms are
plain but smart, and although they won't fuel the creative poet
inside of you, they offer moderate comfort and fair value. Way
in the north of the city. Q54 rooms (48 singles 160 - 320zł,
48 doubles 180 - 350zł, 6 suites 210 - 400zł). Breakfast
20zł. HALKW hh
Located right in the city centre.
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July - October 2009
33
34
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Pomorski E-3, ul. Sierakowska 36, tel. 061 867 28 31,
from
with
breakfast
Visit our comfortable
and modern hostel in city center
fax 061 867 53 62, [email protected], www.
hotel-pomorski.dmf.pl. Pictures of Italy greet the guest from
the newly renovated walls of Pomorski's corridors. After being
completely overhauled, the hotel now has a better reception
area, very comfy family rooms (3-bedded) but rather bland
double rooms. It's a short walk to the tramstop on Grunwaldzka. Q68 rooms (25 singles 120 - 155zł, 38 doubles
170 - 220zł, 4 suites 255 - 300zł, 1 apartment 400 - 450zł).
HARUFGK hh
Sport Hotel F-5, ul. Chwiałkowskiego 34, tel. 061
833 05 91, fax 061 833 24 44, sporthotel@posir.
poznan.pl, www.sporthotel.poznan.pl. Although it's
located in the Nautilus Spor ts Centre you're going to
get enough exercise humping your bags up three flights
of stairs. Rooms are clean, recently painted and fully
renovated, but come with the sort of identikit furniture
and carpets you'd find in an office. Beg gars can't be
choosers, and Sport isn't bad value. Pay extra to use the
sports complex. Q23 rooms (3 singles 130 - 240zł, 13
doubles 160 - 300zł, 2 triples 200 - 400zł, 2 apartments
260 - 525zł). HAUGDCW hh
Apartments
Onto restaurants, and we’ll start with what could well
become our favourite eatery in town – Czeska Hospoda
is an absolute delight, with an owner committed to
nothing else but absolute excellence. Recommend it
we most certainly do. Next up, Warung Bali adds an
Indonesian flavour to the old town, while the restaurant
in the Blow Up Hall is every bit as good as the hotel of
the same name. For something more traditional then
check out Wiejskie Jadlo, and don’t miss tapas in La
Rambla. Finally, nightlife, and Mielzynski Wine Bar is the
best of its genre, while Blueberry is a welcome addition to the lounge scene. We’re yet to be convinced by
Celtic Irish Bar, though this could change in the coming
months. Enjoy them all.
Fusion Hostel ul. Św Marcin 66/72, tel. 0 61 852 12
30, [email protected], www.fusionhostel.pl. We've
seen many hostels, but few to rival Fusion. Could this be the
best in Poland? The design here is positively futuristic, with
an excellent common room decked out with low-slung sofas
and a separate area holding a bank of flatscreen computers.
Everything shines and sparkles here, while a maximum of six
to a room minimizes the risk of being woken by a snoring Ozzie.
Q 86 dorm beds 55-120zł per person. AGW
The only hostel in Poznan recommended by
Lonely Planet.
Frolic Goats Hostel
the best located hostel in town!
We offer cosy private rooms
as well as cheap dorms.
Prices from 45 zl
NEW
NEW
There’s been plenty of new arrivals to cast opinion
on this issue, and no more so than in the hotel sector. The opening of the Blow Up Hall dominated our
last outing to Poz, and while they’re a tough act to
follow that’s not deterred a couple of pretenders.
Pick of the bunch is Fancy House, an absolutely
ace boutique style effort that doesn’t half capture
the imagination. Then there’s Hot_Elarnia, whose
out of town position should do nothing to harm its
popularity – it looks superb, and the spa facilities
are a great incentive to book in for a weekend
pampering. Then there’s the hostel front, and we
just love Fusion, a cleverly designed bolthole that
proves how far hostelling has come since those days
of cur fews and lockouts.
NEW
Wondering where to go next?
Poznan the place to be.
Wondering where to stay?
Hostel Poznań ul. Słowackiego 40, tel./fax 0 61 843
Fancy House E-4, ul. Śniadeckich 18/4, tel. 0660 750
What’s Hot, What’s Not
Frolic Goats Hostel C-2, ul. Wrocławska 16/6 (entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. 061 852 44 11, [email protected], www.frolicgoatshostel.
com. Accommodation ranges from private rooms to 12 man
dorms with beds being of the sturdy pine type. Everything
smells and feels brand new here, which is exactly what it is,
and details include a kitchen with a preserved stone chimney
as well as bicycle hire and the promise of round-the-clock hot
water. If mingling with backpackers washing their socks is
beneath you then ask about their private apartments on ul.
Krysiewicza 6.Q8 rooms (3 doubles 170 - 200zł, 2 quads
240 - 260zł). 45 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. AGW
916, fax 061 622 98 10, [email protected],
www.fancyhouse.pl. So it’s the Blow Up Hall that’s been
grabbing the headlines, but that’s not to say it’s the only
design hotel in town. Fancy House is a star in its own right,
with a selection of accommodation that’s both fun and stylish.
Choose the Pop room for pics of Marilyn and wedding white
colours, or go for Orient for svelte wood finishes and eastern
flavour. Think you can do better than the local chefs? Prove
so by cooking up in the fully-equipped kitchen. Q (1 single
195 - 270zł, 3 doubles 220 - 295zł, 1 apartment 660 - 885zł).
TALGW
Hostels
By The Way Hostel C-3, ul. Półwiejska 19/11,
tel. 0 698 38 04 73, hostel@by thewayhostel.pl,
www.bythewayhostel.pl. Wrocław was discovered a
few seasons back by the backpackers - now it looks
like it's Poznań's turn. The opening of By The Way is
another step on the path of backpacking glor y, and this
place offers a pleasingly ar tistic character, up-to-date
fittings, and rooms kitted out with reading lamps and
lockers. The location is spot on, and the no-cur few
policy allows travellers full oppor tunity to test out dance
moves learned in Morocco. Q 7 rooms (3 doubles 130zł,
1 Six-person room 330zł, 1 Eight-person room 400zł,
2 Ten-person rooms 450zł). 16 dorm beds 45-65zł per
person. TAGW
Cinnamon A-2, ul. Gwarna 10/2, tel. 061 851 57 57,
[email protected], www.cinnamonhostel.
com. Enter via a shabby-looking barred gateway to find
a rather spiffy choice of budget lodgings. The common
room is right out of studentsville, what with all the band
and movie posters, while the rooms are neat and simple
and themed on colours. Everything from beds to kitchens
to bathrooms are fresh, clean and pleasant, while those
hoping for a little more privacy can now rent a separate
apar tment named Spice. Q 9 rooms (4 singles 100zł,
4 doubles 135zł, 2 quads 240zł, 2 Eight-person rooms
400zł, 1 Nine-person room 405zł). 43 dorm beds 45-60zł
per person. TARGW
31 02, [email protected], www.
slowackiego.hostelpoznan.pl. It's not the most exciting of
names, but at least you won't forget it. There's no gimmicks
here, just very decent budget accommodation featuring woodcut
beds, parquet floors and TVs and work stations in the smaller
rooms. Break boundaries they don't, but if you want a clean bed
at a good price you won't find many finer options.Q15 rooms
(6 singles 65-78zł, 6 doubles 110-168zł, 6 triples 140-168zł, 6
quads 180-195zł). 10 dorm beds 40zł per person. W
www.frolicgoatshostel.com
ul.Wroclawska 16/6
(entry from Jaskolcza Street)
phone: +48 (0) 61 8524411
Out of town
Batory ul. Leszczyńska 7-13 (Grunwald), tel. 061 832
batory.poznan.pl. A modern exterior, and an interior loosely
inspired by a scrapped Atlantic liner called the Batory - bits
and pieces from the ship decorate the lobby and bar. Rooms
are comfortable and reasonably plush. With a lively interpretation of the words ‘located near the centre,' getting to Batory
involves either a taxi or taking a tram to the end of the line
before hopping onto a bus for two stops. Q20 rooms (19
singles 264 - 500zł, 17 doubles 320 - 520zł, 1 apartment
650 - 850zł). PTHAGKW hhh
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Delicja ul. Mostowa 22, Oborniki Wielkopolskie, tel. 061
296 22 11, fax 061 296 15 26, [email protected], www.
delicja.emeteor.pl. A 20km drive from Poznań city centre,
Delicja features rooms decorated with prissy flowery patterns
and standard hotel fittings such as satellite TV and air-con.
Downstairs on-site facilities include fitness centre, sauna
and conference room. Q27 rooms (27 singles 120 - 150zł,
9 doubles 200zł). PHAUFGDW hhh
Dwór w Podstolicach (Podstolice Manor House)
ul. Kasztanowa 50, Podstolice, tel. 061 438 68 08, fax
061 438 68 92, [email protected], www.podstolice.
pl. Indulge yourself at this restored 19th century manor
house. Set in an old park the final effect is over-the-top, and
the glut of antiques and peacocks pose an obstacle course
in themselves. Activities include shooting, driving range and
banisters for kids to slide down. Period furnishings, oil paintings and other lavish antique trappings decorate the interior.
1 apartment 370 - 760zł). HARLGK
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July - October 2009
35
36
RESTAURANTS
WHERE TO STAY
The Polish Dwarf
Born near the Polish city town of Halicz in 1739 Józef
Boruwlaski rates as one of Poland’s most curious
natives. Better known as The Polish Dwarf he was
adopted at a young age by the Starostin de Carolix
though her subsequent marriage meant he was soon
transferred to the patronage of Countess Humieka
and her estate in Rychty. When he was fifteen, and a
mere 64 centimetres, the countess took him to visit
the royal court in Vienna where he subsequently hobnobbed with Viennese high society. While perched
on the knee of Empress Maria Theresa he remarked
‘there is nothing so wonderful as to see such a little
man on the lap of so great a woman’. The flirty remark
delighted the Empress and moved her to present
him with her diamond ring. The ring was too big for
Boruwlaski so the Empress called on one a young
princess present to award him with her ring instead.
That princess was a six year old Marie Antoinette,
who would later achieve infamy at the business end
of a guillotine.
From Vienna the countess and Boruwlaski toured
the courts of Germany and France, and it was at
Luneville where the pocket-sized Pole was introduced
to the retarded French dwar f Bebe. An immediate
friendship was struck, though it wasn’t long till
things took a coulourful turn. Measuring four inches
taller than our hero Bebe soon became jealous of
the attention heaped on Boruwlaski, and during a
fit of pique attempted to throw the Pole into a fire.
Servants intervened and saved Boruwlaski, while
Bebe was chastised, whipped and expelled from the
royal household. Little is known of the fate of the
Frenchman, though one history book asserts that
he died of ‘mortification and spleen’.
Although apparently a keep-fit fanatic and teetotaller, Boruwlaski nonetheless enjoyed the Parisian
highli fe, attending masked balls, pageants and
banquets. An incurable romantic, Boruwlaski enjoyed
flirting, and we are assured that his romantic lustings were often mutual. However when Boruwlaski
fell in love with the Isalina Barbutan, the countess’
domestic companion, the countess threw him out
in rage. Poland’s King Stanislas II intervened, gave
Boruwlaski an allowance, and with royal approval
the Pole later married the subject of his desire. Using royal letters of introduction the dwarf toured the
courts of Europe and Turkey, entertaining the rich
with his sharp wit, dapper dance moves and masterly
violin skills. One tour of Britain paired him with the
Irish giant Patrick Cotter, which proved a particular
hit with the paying public.
He sired several children with his wi fe, and with
money to his name Boruwlaski eventually published
his memoirs and took retirement in the English town
of Durham. The dwarf lived to see 97, and although
happily married, one anecdote from his Durham
days reveals his wife would often place him on the
mantelpiece if he ever irritated her.
Euro Hotel Swar zędz ul. Cies zkowskiego 33,
Swarzędz, tel. 061 647 47 47, fax 061 647 47 48, [email protected], www.eurohotel.swarzedz.pl.
Comfortable, sparkling clean, and with a boxish exterior that
would not be out of place on a modern retail estate. Inside
Euro has high-standard rooms with rich scarlet carpets and
modern amenities. The hotel restaurant occupies a marblefloored atrium, and certainly looks the part.Q52 rooms (42
singles 150 - 350zł, 10 doubles 220 - 450zł, 1 triple 280
- 500zł, 7 suites 250 - 500zł, 2 apartments 400 - 550zł).
HARULGKW hhh
Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre
of commerce but its restaurant scene is still very much
in its infancy. You will find a scattering of world-class
restaurants, but you're ethnic options are limited in both
number and quality. The opening hours we list are flexible,
and most will stay open past their closing times if customers are still lingering. The prices we list in brackets denote
the cost of the cheapest and dearest dish on the menu. As
with most of the city's bars and clubs, restaurants tend to
remain open past their official closing times if customers
are lingering.
Green Hotel ul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. 061 810
American
80 75, fax 061 810 81 23, [email protected],
www.greenhotel.pl. If you're looking for accommodation
away from the bright lights then Green Hotel presents a solid
choice. Located in a wooded area 11km from the city centre,
this hotel has a sleek American style, and a list of facilities
as long as your arm. Modern interiors and pleasant colours.
4 apartments 699 - 899zł). PTHAULGKDCW
hhhh
NEW
Hot_elarnia ul. Morenowa 33 (Puszczykowo), tel.
061 898 37 80/061 898 37 81, fax 061 898 37 90,
[email protected], www.hotelarnia.pl. Who would have
thought it. The opening of Fancy House, Blow Up Hall and
now Hot_Elarnia surely make Poznań Poland's trendiest city.
Okay, so Hot_Elarnia isn't actually directly in Poznań, but that's
a fact we're going to overlook. From the outside you'd expect
a traditional country lodge experience with rooms decorated
with frills and lace. Think again. This place comes with a
cutting edge design that includes light coloured attic rooms
with beds you can't resist bouncing up and down on. Space
age and futuristic, with an excellent spa and wellness centre
on-site. Q13 rooms (11 singles 450zł, 11 doubles 500zł, 2
suites 550 - 600zł). PTHAFGKDCW hhhh
Ossowski ul. Dąbrówki 1, Kobylnica, tel. 061 815 81
00, fax 061 815 81 88, [email protected].
pl, www.hotel-ossowski.com.pl. A smart hotel offering
three star standards and accommodation that comes with
satellite TVs perched high in the corners, and smallish bathrooms that positively sparkle. A fitness center with Jacuzzi
and sauna looks set to be added in the not-too-distant future.
2 triples 330 - 450zł, 2 suites 300 - 550zł, 1 apartment 550
- 900zł). HARUGKW hhh
Pałac Wasowo ul. Parkowa 1, Kuślin, tel. 061 447
wasowo.pl. Pick between staying in a baroque mansion, a
neo-gothic palace or a rustic-themed gardener's cottage. The
Wąsowo complex is well off the radar - 40km from Poznań but you'll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Poland which
can boast the same level of history and heritage. Each room
is furnished in individual style, offering a good balance of
antiques and modern gadgets. Indoor swimming pool, wine
cellar, billiard room and horse-drawn carts are just a few of the
distractions at your disposal. Q60 rooms (51 singles 160 300zł, 51 doubles 220 - 390zł, 9 apartments 450 - 700zł).
THAUKDCW hhhh
NEW
Niku Restauracja ul. Piątkowska 200, tel. 061 826 74
27, www.niku.pl. Good value food that fills any gap you've
acquired while using the squash, bowling and fitness facilities.
Quality goes way beyond the standard you'd expect from a
wellness/leisure centre, as do the artsy cocktails and steaks.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (26-82zł) PAU
Rodeo Drive C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.
061 853 72 48, www.rodeodrive.pl. Aspiring rednecks
could do a lot worse than showing up to Rodeo Drive, a spacey
venue which combines bare bricks, steel pipes and skylights
with saloon-style touches like cacti, cattle horns and hussies
in cowgal hats. The menu includes wings and ribs, but most
people are here for the steaks - among the best in town.
There's a few to choose from, with the filet mignon winning
our vote every time; pair it up with bacon branded beans and
some loaded jacket potatoes.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (24-70zł). PTAUEBXSW
Rooster C-2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. 061 853 40 65, www.
rooster.pl. Rooster is where burgers meet Baywatch; a sort of
TGI Tits if you please. The food is fine, nothing more challenging
than ribs and wings served up in interiors sprinkled with midWest number plates and telegraph poles. People come here for
the waitresses - tanorexic bombshells with plenty of bits and
boobs sticking out of lycra uniform. QOpen 11.00 - 24.00, Fri,
Sat 11.00 - 01.00. (16-40zł). TAUBXS
Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38,
www.sioux.com.pl. A Wild West eatery with a Clint Eastwood design and a permanent crowd of cheerful diners. The
menu includes pizza and ranch food, while drinkers should
note the existence of an ‘open late’ burger outlet on the corner.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (16-100zł).
PTAEBXSW
Sioux Classic D-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. 061 851 62 86,
www.sioux.com.pl. Spaghetti Western décor and staff dressed
as cowboys and injuns lend a bit of a theme park atmosphere to
this place, and the wagon and wig wam style goes well with long,
lairy nights where drinking is every bit as important as dining.
Good fun with a decent menu of mid-west bites.QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (20-99zł). PTJABS
SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/
poznan. It's amazing what a good burger can do to raise the
spirits, and they don't get any better than the one in Someplace Else. This Sheraton based bar/eatery gets the food
right every time, and remains your only hope for authentic
Tex Mex dining in Poznan. The diner design is right out of
road trip America, and is a great backdrop for ties-off, after
office chow.QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Closed from July 20 August 20 (18-74zł). PTAUEXSW
Chinese
Azalia B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 853 24 42,
www.azalia.poznan.pl. Size counts in Azalia, a venue
with an infinite menu and a floor plan that could fit a
factor y. The chow won’t wow, with the dishes usually
eclipsed by an interior soaked and drowned in dragons and lanterns. Q Open 12:00 - 22:30. (15-40zł).
PTAXS
Klub 65 Stary Rynek 64 /65, tel. 061 853 06 58.
Jack-of-all-trades, master of none. The Chinese food here
is Uncle Ben standard, while the Italian… well, they had
run out by the time we placed our order. What kind of
restaurant runs out of food you may ask? The kind which
has fruit machines in the corners, and blokes in leather
jackets playing them. Further investigations concluded
after a quick glance at the scatological surprise in the
toilet.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Pekin B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 33, tel. 061 852 63 70, www.
pekin.pl. Relive the age of Bruce Lee in this vivid riot of
dragons, pagodas and hanging lanterns. With Bambus
on skid row Pekin have stepped in and nicked the title
of Best Chinese. A prodigious menu covers pretty much
anything ever served in a Chinese restaurant, and the duck
dishes are always a hit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-49zł).
PTAXS
Zielony Smok (The Green Dragon) B-1, ul. 23 Lutego
7, tel. 061 851 35 95. Apparently they serve Vietnamese
and Chinese food but we were stuck to find anything resembling either. Walk past, swiftly.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00. (11-33zł). PAGS
Czech
NEW
Česká Hospoda D-1, ul. Żydowska 26/4, tel. 061
852 48 98, www.ceskagospoda.pl. Ever y now and
again along comes a meal that we can't stop talking
abou t, and while Czech cuisine might not strike you
as the next culinar y trend we simply can't recommend
this place highly enough. This is cer tainly not the fog gy
beer hall you might expect, rather a smar tly furnished
narrow space featuring a superb garden outback. It's
highl y likel y you'll be greeted at the door by Michał,
the affable proprietor, and when he's not chatting with
the customers you'll find him in the ki tchen cooking
up fantastic meals like steak with elderberr y sauce indeed, this is the best cooked cow in town. On top of
that, there's some great extras to compliment your pint
of Pilsner; tr y the freshly baked pretzels, for instance.
Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (30-45zł).
TABXSW
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Smoking ban
L Guarded parking
I Fireplace
6 Animal friendly
R Internet
W Wi-Fi
V Home delivery
X Smoking section
July - October 2009
37
38
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Fine dining
French
Bażanciarnia C-2, Stary Rynek 94, tel. 061 855 33 59,
Patio D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 855 10 27, www.
www.bazanciarnia.pl. The work of celebrity restaurateur
Magda Gessler Bazanciarnia is the first, last and only choice
if you're looking for a meal befitting a Tsar. The interior is a
bit country toff meets Laura Ashley, with lots of fruit, flowers
and chandeliers to clatter into, while the menu is everything
you'd find on a forest floor after a blindfolded squire has fired
off a few rounds; venison, lamb, boar, as well as the house
specialty, pheasant marinated in orange juice.QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (46-250zł). PTAIBXSW
Delicja B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 852 11 28, www.
delicja.eu. Poznań fine dining doesn't get better than this.
Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of
French, Italian and Polish recipes including superb pieces of
cooking such as roast lamb and beef sirloin. This definitely
falls at the upper end of the food chain, and the interior comes
filled with silver candleholders, immaculate linen and classical
music. As soon as the sun comes out, take advantage of one
of the better gardens in town. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. (38-72zł). PTYAUEBXSW
Dom Vikingów C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71
53, www.domvikingow.pl. The Viking's House isn't half as
primitive as it sounds. On the contrary, this Danish owned spot
has a crisp urban look and a client base that at times feels
overwhelmingly cashed-up and foreign. And yes, while there are
Danish dishes on show, there's plenty of alternative options for
the non-Scandic visitor. There's a few places claiming Poznan's
best steak, and the one in DV is certainly up there on the leader
board.QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (39-86zł). PTABXW
Figaro C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. 061 852 08 16, www.
Eating at a Glance
Splurge Any ‘Best of’ list in Poznan is invariably going to
see a slew of nominations for the Blow Up Hall. And yes,
not only are they in possession of Poznan’s best hotel,
but also the most impressive restaurant. Find (very)
modern versions of Polish cooking in a neo-industrial
setting that couldn’t be more cutting edge if it tried. For
more traditional dishes and settings then check our Fine
Dining section – Delicja and Le Palais score particularly
highly.
Couples Figaro is so OTT you half expect to be served
by Cupid himself. For something completely different
why not eat in the pitch black at Dark Restaurant. If the
sun is shining then head to Zydowksa where most cafes
and restaurants have knockout gardens in the back – our
favourite Czeska Hospoda. If you’re in a cafe mood then
don’t miss the garden in Cocorico.
Polish Mlynskie Kolo sources local produce and has an
authentic rural Polish atmosphere – if it was closer to
town it’d be unbeatable. Also noteworthy are Zagroda
Bamberska, a place serving traditional Bamberg recipes,
and the peasant themed Wiejskie Jadlo. One more for
the hitlist, and that’s Nalewska, a great restaurant with
a pleasing choice of herbal vodkas to aid your night.
Ethnic There’s a fair range of ethnic options in Poz, but
some of them are going to come close to killing you. For
reliably good Indian we recommend Reeta’s and possibly
Buddha. We say possibly because it appears Buddha
now appear to be more focussed on the clubbing angle
of their enterprise. For sushi both Sakana and Kyokai
are excellent.
figaro.poznan.pl. Romantic repasts and serious business
dinners take place amongst the starched tablecloths and
vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending
power of most western visitors. Diners can choose from a
large list of pasta, beef tenderloin and veal and an expansive
wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is their fish menu,
reputed to be the best in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 17:00. (25-57zł). PTAS
Le Palais du Jardin C-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. 061 665
85 85, www.lepalais.poznan.pl. Nouvelle cuisine in a
modern, cream coloured setting. The menu is considered one
of the best in the city, and is comprised of dishes like monk
fish and lamb. There's also an impressive wine list to gargle
through, and staff far removed from the utter nincompoops
employed in some of the nearby venues.QOpen 12:00 23:00. (54-99zł). PTAX
Panorama K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77 (HP Park Hotel), tel.
061 874 11 56, www.hotelepark.pl. Views of Lake Malta
are the main selling point here, and come sunset it really
does get quite romantic. An inoffensive, play-it-safe interior
reflects the hotel location, but the chefs do well in creating
good value dinners that really do merit the taxi trek out here.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-61zł). PTYAUXSW
Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061 842
77 90, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Yes it's in a hotel, but
this is no three star, pastel colour, logo clad, looks-like-a-privatehospital sort of place. Okay, the hotel is three star, but Zagroda
Bamberska has enough class and character to be awarded
a bracket of its own. So too the restaurant, a cacophonous
cross-timbered hall in which diners get to try dishes cooked
to original Bamberg recipes. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (14-41zł). TAUGBSW
patio-poznan.pl. A pretty old town spot that brings Provence
to your doorstep. The name alludes to the interior, which is all
patio furnishings, droopy plants and even a mock fountain set
in the corner. The crepes are overpriced and lack any ooh la
la, but the rest of the menu seems to elicit positive enough
reaction - the salmon steak is lovely. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(15-49zł). AXSW
Fusion
Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.
pl/poznan. Top class dining in the Sheraton's showpiece
restaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it's
meant to be with inventive dishes like chicken marinated in
coconut milk appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor to
ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the
proletariat scurrying to work. Above average prices, but with
the quality to warrant the indulgence. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 17:00. (58-86zł).
PTAUXSW
Pracownia D-2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. 0 508 13 16 64. A
smooth looker of a venue with lots of dark woods, clever
lighting and interesting contraptions dangling from the ceiling.
The menu is fusion inspired, with bountiful choices for our
vegetarian associates, and this long, narrow newbie looks set
to become a personal favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon,
Tue, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-30zł). TABXS
Greek
Artemis C-1, ul. Wroniecka 21, tel. 0 618 48 43 16.
Peering through the window and prospective diners will be
left staring at rows of empty seats. Persevere. Insist on sitting downstairs, in the vaulted brick cellar, before perusing a
classic menu touting all the lamb and grilled goodies you can
handle. It's not life changing, but we like it. You probably will
too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-68zł). PAXS
Pireus E-4, ul. Głogowska 35, tel. 061 866 51 27, www.
pireus.poznan.pl. A typical caricature of the Greek restaurant
abroad. Plaster statues and Doric pillars fill the compact
venue, and the small but straight-forward menu holds all the
usual suspects: gyros, kalamari and souvlaki. Industrious
service and a casual atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(13-60zł). TAXS
Tawerna Grecka Mykonos B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel.
061 853 34 36, www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Relive
your Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned joint. Blue
and white interiors come adorned with pics of Greek beach
scenes and scale models of fishing vessels while the menu
is a romp through classics like souvlaki and lamb served with
lemon sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(15-48zł). PTAESW
Indian
Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Sieroca 10, tel. 061 852 33 99,
www.buddhabar-poznan.pl. At last, Poznan gets the Indian
restaurant it deserves. Accessed by a red carpet this place
looks like it cost a fortune, with every inch covered with woodcarved panels, gold braided drapes and intricate ironwork.
Presiding over it all, a smarmy looking giant Buddha. But
while the food remains excellent it's with a token of concern
you may notice the revamped menu - gone are the list of
July - October 2009
39
40
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Indian staples, replaced instead by a cut-down, ‘best of India'
selection. Even more disturbing is the addition of French Fries
to the Indian starters. Worse still the owners appear keen to
promote this place as a club first, restaurant second, so don't
be surprised to find your dining interrupted by ditzy twenty
something's dancing to very loud Bollywood tunes.QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (25-50zł). PTABXS
Reeta's Haveli G-4, ul. Ratajczaka 23, tel. 061 853 47
77. These are great times we live in. Having waited years for
a decent Indian the city can now boast two. So, how does
this newbie weigh up against Buddha? Very well is your answer. The madras has a cheeky bite, while the chicken tikka
masala is gaining a fan club of its own. Set down a basement
the intimate Reeta's boasts a far superior atmosphere if
not design over Buddha, while the service is every bit as
proficient as it is attractive. Couple of points mind, an alcohol
license is desperately needed, as are proper plastic tubs for
takeaway - curry does not belong in a styrofoam box.QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (23-40zł). PTAEXSW
Indonesian
Corcovado D-1, ul. Wroniecka 16, tel. 061 663 63
34, www.corcovado.pl. While Corcovado occupies the
middle ground between café and restaurant, the owners
say it leans slightly more toward the restaurant end of
the scale. Sure enough, the menu is comprised of rather
upscale European dishes that wouldn't be out of place
in a more formal spot. But a café atmosphere prevails:
brick walls adorned with artsy black-and-whites, a mellow
atmosphere, and a slightly bohemian middle-class crowd.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
(27-44zł). TJABXS
Dark Restaurant D-2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852
NEW
Warung Bali C-1, ul. Żydowska 1, tel. 061 853 23 11,
www.warungbali.pl. Poznań's best Indonesian restaurant.
So it's Poznań's only Indonesian restaurant, but even if there
was competition this place would still draw the punters. Set
around Balinese icons and carvings Warung impresses with
authentic dishes like spicy beef coconut soup and shrimps
with black pepper sauce. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue,
Wed 14:00 - 22:00. (18-49zł). PTAGSW
International
Alexander B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. 061 852 28 12,
www.alexander.poznan.pl. A long standing favourite with
our staff Alexander straddles that no-man's land between
Stary Browar and the old town. Located on a steep hill this
Mediterranean themed spot sits its diners amid twisting vines
and cherubic figures, lending something of a ‘Cupid Goes
Cooking' tone to your meal. The lamb is faultless, and the
atmosphere high class and formal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (32-112zł). PTAUXSW
Ali Baba C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 11, tel. 061 853 29 83,
www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A cave-like interior with multicoloured lamps hanging from the ceilings and a menu that is
not too dissimilar - but far more enjoyable - to Sphinx; lusty
helpings of meat, pizzas and sandwiches with grilled fillings. A
set of hookah pipes planted by the wall complete the Arabian
Nights theme.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (19-42zł). PTABXS
Bee Jay's C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, www.
beejays.pl. Permanently docked in the shadow of the old town
hall Beejay's features a nutty design (quarrying explosives, a
model galleon) as well as a stained glass window depicting a
Mexican, Indian and Scotsman. If that sounds like the start of
a bad joke it most certainly isn't - it's the start of a bad meal.
The menu is the definition of diverse, though the results aren't
so much varied as plain poor. The chef here is a gentleman of
shortcuts; the curry comes from a tin and the Mexican salsa is
actually ketchup - at these prices, that's inexcusable.QOpen
11:00 - 23:30. (20-96zł). PTJAUBSW
Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel.
061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. You might be here with
the lads, in which case point your nose to the left, order some
beer snacks and get stuck into their range of microbrews.
Alternately, sophisticates are going to be picking the right
door, through which they'll find a cream dining room where
dapper business types dine alongside gushing personal assistants dressed like Lois Lane. The menu is a bit of a juggling
act, with influences from the Mediterranean, Germany and
Poland, but the results hit double six every time. Save space
for dessert - the choccy buns are a death by chocolate affair,
and feel pleasingly sinful.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (30-48zł).
PTJABXSW
91 70, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Here's a place with a
great gimmick - it's pitch black. The theory behind this
is simple; tell the waiter how many courses you plan on
having, before being shepherded into the darkness by
the staff (they're equipped with night vision goggles, so
abandon any thoughts of doing a runner). The contents of
the meal remain a mystery until the point of departure, at
which point diners have the opportunity to have a natter
with the chef.QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
(50-100zł). PTAEGS
Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51
17. On the one side a manly pub with football scarves and lots
of lads, on the right hand side a pleasant restaurant with white
on white colours, high-backed chairs and a constant stream
of sightseers taking time out from the rigors of getting lost.
The menu is a standard European effort with few surprises to
be found. Expect a rundown of mainstay dishes like chicken
breast and beef fillet. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:30. (22-55zł). PTAGS
Imaret D-2, ul. Wielka 9. Find post-pubbers lining up
outside the window for their traditional before bed kebab,
while inside find a basic room with cut-price furnishings and
a snack bar atmosphere. Popular at all hours, with the reason
being Imaret far exceeds your usual fast food haunts. Grilled
koftas and lamb accompanied by a spicy sauce are just two
options, and the service is leagues ahead of the twits you
usually find carving up your kebab.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,
Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
(17-20zł). GS
TRY OUR NEW
TEX-MEX DISHES
STARTING IN SEPTEMBER
www.someplace-else.pl
Perfect place for sport fans
Watch all sport events live
on 6 LCDs and a huge screen
Brunch
Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Shera-
ton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. You’ve now got a very good reason to
get out of bed on Sunday, that being the Sheraton Sunday
Brunch. Adults pay 109zl (half price kids between 6-12,
free for anything younger), a price which buys a lavish buffet spread, free flow booze, live music and a supervised
kids corner. Popular with high rolling Poles, and expats
who’ve just rolled out of bed, you’ll be hard pressed to find
a better use for a Sunday afternoon. Open from 12:30 to
17:00.QPTAUXSW
SomePlace Else
Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznan, Tel. 061 655 2000
[email protected]
Open daily from 5pm, on Sundays from 12:00
(enter through the main door of Sheraton)
July - October 2009
41
42
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
NEW
In Flagranti D-1, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. 061 853 32 50,
We warmly invite you to our restaurants, which guarantee
excellent cuisine and serve a rich and varied menu.
www.inflagrantipoznan.pl. A voluptuous venue where everything comes drowned in rich crimson colours and the dim
flicker of tea candles and fairy lights. You bet it's romantic, and
the menu is damn good as well; check out the chicken in lemon
pepper sauce.QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00,
Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (20-30zł). PTAXS
Restauracja de Rome
al. K. Marcinkowskiego 22, 61-827 Poznan
tel. + 48 61 852 81 21, [email protected]
www.hotelrzymski.pl
TUSCAN
CUISINE
Excellent meats
are our chef’s speciality!
Admirers of delicious flavours
are highly welcome.
Restauracja Zapadnia E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego
5, tel. 061 848 48 85 ext. 202. In the cellar of the
renovated Now y Teatr, Zapadnia looks and feels like
an upmarket restaurant, with only the prices sug gesting other wise. Spor ting a flashy bar, elegant seating
and a clien tele of cul ture creatures this place is a
pleasing surprise, with an inoffensive menu of generic
European offerings. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (15-52zł).
PTAUGSW
Lizard King C-2, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72,
www.lizardking.pl. Ringside views of the Rynek are one of
the attractions of Lizard King, an old timer that unlike the rocks
stars it celebrates looks like it’ll never die. Packed at all hours
this place pays reverence to Doors, Stones, Beatles and
Pistols, and is pretty much a cut price version of Hard Rock.
The menu is burgers, steaks and other no-shockers, and
seems to go down well with the twenty something crowd. Live
bands do much to get the party jumping, and can frequently
be heard from right across the Rynek.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(18-50zł). PTAEBXSW
Restaurant de Rome C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego
22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Don't let the name fool you, the menu here is
Polish and European with standards like zurek and pierogi
alongside a few game dishes. It's right at the back of a three
star hotel, with no windows and a tame interior that proves
instantly forgettable. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00. (25-48zł).
PTAUEXSW
Lokanta C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061
859 64 60. Found on the top floor of Stary Browar Shopping
Mall, Lokanta proves one of the highlights of the food court.
Although in direct competition with the next-door Sphinx,
this lunch-on-the-run option fares well by cooking a range of
quality kebabs and kofta. Expect to be battling for seats with
hundreds of other shoppers, so bring a big stick to shoo them
away. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (18-63zł).
PAUXSW
Madagaskar H-3, ul. Wielka 7, tel. 061 852 35 24,
w w w.restauracjamadagaskar.pl. Safari print seats
mingle with billowing sheets inside this white, cave-like
space. It looks curious enough, treading a nervous line
between kitsch and class, and the food is nothing less than
global in spirit. T-bone steak, chicken masala and ‘Poznan
duck' give an idea of what to expect, and for the most part
the dishes are well executed and attractively presented.
Definitely one to look into. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 00:00. PAUXS
Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30,
www.moodclub.pl. Talk about a revamp, this place has
gone from looking like a student common room to a formal
dining space decorated with alarming floral patterns. The
menu includes some highly reasonable lunch deals, as well
as pricey evening options such as lamb in rosemary and
rabbit.Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(16-120zł). PTABXW
Mosaica G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, www.
mosaica.pl. This has emerged as one of the top eateries in
town, with a modern international menu which includes Spanish tapas and pan Asian offerings. Of note is the sorbet, which
comes prepared in front of your eyes. As the name suggests,
mosaics are the central decorative theme here, and the
interior comes topped off with a 1925 piano imported from
Berlin - hearing it in action is worth the trip in itself.QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (29-99zł). PTAUEBXSW
www.papavero.poznan.pl. It's all very Day of the Triffids
in Papavero, a lovely little restaurant that could easily be
mistaken for an overgrown garden. Peer beyond the leaves
and the cherubs and one finds a rather fine restaurant, with
an American sirloin that does just enough to distract diners
from engaging in daring flower theft.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-92zł). PTAXS
Le Bistrot G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar),
tel. 061 667 12 96. A flashy, sleek cafe/bar/restaurant inside Star y Browar, and ample proof there's more
to this mall than shopping. Set inside a shining cream
interior Le Bistrot offers up a super selection of antipasti
snacks and modern Mediterranean dishes ser ved to a
smar t crowd laid down with bags with designer names.
Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (21-36zł).
PTAUGS
Bistro Rzymianka
Papavero B-1, ul. 3 Maja 46, tel. 061 853 24 82,
Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32 24,
www.room55.pl. This place would last three minutes in the
capital, but in Poznan a centre location, Peroni lager, decent
wifi connection and English-speaking staff are enough to elevate a rather run-of-the-mill venue to heights not necessarily
deserved. It's certainly not dreadful, but it's by no means the
cutting edge bar or eatery some of the patrons (or staff) seem
to think. It's a bar first and foremost, and that's reflected in
the rather standard quality of food. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (18-140zł). PT
JAUBXSW
Rzymianka C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Rzymski
Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl.
This bright, informal, cafeteria-style restaurant in the Hotel Rz ymski is a popular breakfast spot. The continental
breakfast is a fair deal and they also do omelettes and
sausages from dawn. Lunch and dinner options include
g yros, cu tlets, fried salmon, grilled pork, ribs, pasta
and salads. The menu has crystal-clear colour photos
of the dishes so you know exactly what you’re getting.
Q Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-48zł).
PTAUXSW
Sól i Pieprz (Salt and Pepper) B-2, ul. Garncarska 2,
tel. 0 781 95 03 95, www.solipieprz.com.pl. A completely
naff name, but in the restaurant trade the buck stops with
the food and there's no faulting the stuff that appears on the
plate in front of you. On the menu find a series of modern
Polish dishes - including super pierogi - served inside a pleasant environment which never comes close to outshining the
chef. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-70zł).
ABXS
DESIGN RESTAURANT
Exceptional marriage of culture and cuisine
A magical place with a sophisticated interior
Enjoy live music, concerts and events
in a perfect atmosphere
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EaVX6cYZghV(!+&"-.)EdocVń, Poland
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Sonata C-2, ul. Wrocławska 14, tel. 061 852 27
01, www.restauracjasonata.pl. A modern European
restaurant specialising in exotic creations like grilled
salmon in mustard sauce. Th e main dining room is
pleasant and unexciting, but downstairs you'll find an
atmospheric brick vault with a piano and a fireplace.
Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (19-48zł).
PTJAEX
EdocV²
July - October 2009
43
44
RESTAURANTS
Meteors
Some 10,000 years ago, the unsuspecting inhabitants
of the forests 10km north of what is now Poznań were
in for a nasty surprise when 4,500 tonnes of white-hot
rock slammed into their back yard. Forgotten in the years
that followed the Morasko meteor craters were only
rediscovered in 1914, when soldiers who were digging
trenches during World War I came across a 77kg lump of
meteorite. In total, several chunks (containing 90 per cent
iron) totalling 255kg have been found at the site, often
by farmers. When the disintegrating Morasko meteorite
came crashing from the cosmos, the impact created
eight large craters, of which seven remain today (one
having been destroyed by ploughing). The meteorites
came from the northeast, as the crater rims are highest
to the south and southwest, allegedly as part of a Perseid
meteor shower linked with the wonderfully named comet
‘Swift Tuttle’. After 10,000 years of erosion, the largest
crater is still 100m wide and 13m deep.
Since 1976 the area has been protected as a nature reserve
and is today easily accessible from Poznań. For your slice of
intergalactic drama take tram number 12, 14 or 15 from ul.
Roosevelta to the terminus at Os. Jana Sobieskiego, and
then follow the bicycle route which goes under the railway
and northwest towards Morasko forest. You can also get
off the tram one stop earlier at Szymanowskiego, and
change to bus N°88, which goes to Morasko village every
40 minutes. The craters are 600m from Morasko and 4km
from the tram terminus and the surrounding beech forest is
also home to numerous endangered plants.
RESTAURANTS
U Mnie Czy u Ciebie A-2, ul. Gwarna 3, tel. 061 852
58 82, www.umnieczyuciebie.pl. Lots of bare brick, clever
lighting and sepia photos give this place a lifestyle mag look,
and its already done a fair job on roping the customers in. The
menu - comprising of salads, snacks and mains like chicken
fillet - isn't the most adventurous you'll find, but that's by no
means a handicap; what they do, they do well. QOpen 10:00
- 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:30. (12-50zł). PTABSW
Ignacy Jan Paderewski
Bernardino Ristorante B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel.
Born in Kuryłówka in 1860 the
man many credit for sparking
th e U pri si n g i s ri gh t fu l l y
regarded as a national icon.
Having entered the Warsaw
Conservatorium at the age of
12 he worked as a piano tutor
after graduation. The death
of his wife, just a year after
they married, spurred him to
commit his life to music and
in 1887 he made his public
debut in Vienna. His talent
was obvious and his growing
popularity saw him storm both Europe and the States, not
just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well. He was
based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time he
became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman
for the Polish National Committee.
Da Luigi D-2, ul. Woźna 1, tel. 061 851 73 11. Low, low
With the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland
where, having played a key role in the Wielkopolska
Uprising, he was elected Poland’s third ever prime minister.
It was he who signed for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty
of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just around the
corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and in the
face of growing public discontent he resigned from office in
December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s representative in
the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume
his musical career.
Wejście Obok C-1, ul. Zamkowa 4, tel. 061 850 14
90, www.wejscieobok.pl. A great little find, and one that's
fitted with the sort of country cottage interior you'd expect in
a fairytale. Most people use this as a café, and there's few
better ways to lose a day than by turning up here with a clever
sounding book. However, there is reason to linger into the
night, and that's the presence of a rather decent menu that
includes salads, pasta and roast beef.QOpen 14:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (9-48zł). PTAUBXSW
Italian
061 855 12 17, www.bernardino.pl. A light and bright
modern venue with a clean and crisp design that could have
fallen from the pages of a design mag. Street-level views of
Sw. Marcin allow for plenty of pedestrian watching, while the
kitchen gives plenty of reason to return. Find the full gamut
of Italian offerings on display, including a superior choice of
pizza that knocks most of the competition out of the water.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (20-70zł).
PTUEGBSW
Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop haired
Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known
for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being
introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both
leaders in your spheres, though the spheres are very
different’. Not one to miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned
‘Not so very different, you are a dear soul who plays polo,
and I am a poor Pole who plays solo’. During WWII he
became an eminent figure in the London based exiled
Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country of
his birth still under occupation.
His body was originally buried in a
place of honour in Arlington Cemetery,
Washington DC on the direction of
President Franklin D Roosevelt where
it was to remain until Poland gained
its freedom. With Poland falling under
the Soviet sphere of influence after
the war that was not to be for several
decades, and his body was finally
returned in 1992 to Warsaw’s St
John’s Cathedral. George Bush Senior
led the eulogies at the ceremony, describing Paderewski as
a ‘visionary statesman’, while noting that it was Paderewski
who was responsible for Polish independence being included
in President Woodrow Wilson’s Fourteen Points for Peace at
the end of WWI. To this day Paderewski is held in reverence
by all Poles, a fact confirmed by the number of parks, streets
and buildings named in his honour.
prices, a friendly welcome - sometimes by Luigi himself - and
excellent pizza are enough to earn this restaurant its stripes.
Actually, calling this place a restaurant is a little fanciful. This is
more of a foggy trattoria, and mostly frequented by the students
who spill out of the bars opposite.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-40zł). PTJGS
Girasole D-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. 061 851 37 29.
Easily overlooked on account of their end-of-old town location, though that doesn't mean you should. Simple but stylish,
decorations include a wooden fittings, tiled floors and vases
of cheerful flowers, and the menu hits the spot each time
with homemade pastas and substantials like pork fillet with
oranges. Liberal prices leave plenty of change for the wine.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27-45zł). TAGBSW
La Scala C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 853 04 89, www.
WHAT MORE FROM A
RESTAURANT THAN GREAT
ATMOSPHERE COMBINED WITH
FINE FOOD?
lascala.com.pl. One of the priciest meals in Poznań, served
inside a fantasia of shimmery fabrics, stucco mouldings
and murals depicting Venice in its full glory. Furnished with
a flourish not a single inch has been left undecorated, with
the overall effect leaving your eyes spinning in their sockets.
In exchange for a peel of banknotes expect to be treated to
outstanding renditions of Italian dishes from the updated
menu. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(24-150zł). PTAEBSW
Massimiliano Ferre B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 852
Poz
Po
oznań
ań ul
ul.G
Gw
G
warna 3
81 12, www.mf.art.pl. A very decent restaurant – not that
you’d guess; togged out in stone cladding and cheapy furniture
M Ferre does bugger all to inspire confidence, and even less
with a menu that reads in Polish only. Not much makes sense
here, least of all the mystery meal called Heffalump, but what
we do know is the food really is smashing value. The pizza
here is superb, and made all the better by the modest price
tags.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (11-56zł).
PTAEBXSW
July - October 2009
45
46
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Pizzeria Rozmaitości C-1, ul. Zamkowa 5, tel. 0 664
653 375, www.rozmaitosci.poznan.pl. The world turns
upside down in Rozmaitosci, a venue where the staff are
fantastic and the food the utter opposite. It is possible to
get takeaway here, but only at times when the owner has
had the foresight to order some boxes; otherwise take a
seat and go to war on leather pizzas with a set of ultra bendy
cutlery. Chances are you'll find yourself hiding unwanted slices
under the table, in plant pots and even down your trousers anywhere but your mouth, in fact.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-69zł). PARGS
Valpolicella C-2, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. 061 855 71 91,
www.valpolicella.poznan.pl. This place hasn't changed since
our debut issue; find 21 types of antipasti, the usual meat and
pasta dishes and wines from Veneto inside a crazily asymmetrical decor painted in cartoon colours. Certainly reliable if nothing
else.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (22-67zł). PTJAXS
One of the most
prestigeous sushi
restaurants in Poland.
Temple of taste in a
classic, japanese style
and decore, gathering many loyal
customers. Unique place, perfect for
intimate party or exquisite supper.
All dishes prepared live - with the
finest fresh fishes, seafood and
original fresh ingredients. Even
sushi opposites will find something
delicious!
Villa Magnolia Ristorante ul. Głogowska 40, tel. 061
865 34 48, www.villamagnolia.pl. A stately venue, and one
which makes abundant use of chandeliers and marble columns.
Everything looks Rolls Royce here, from the immaculate linen
to dashing wait staff. For the most part diners will be parting
with around 50 zlots for a main course here, though high rollers
should look into ordering the jumbo prawns served in oyster
sauce - a snip at 189 zeds. An excellent venue, though whether
it will survive in the post-credit crunch world is open to debate.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-189zł). PTAEXSW
Japanese
Milano Ristorante F-2, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel.
061 852 87 45, www.milano2.pl. An interior of polished
woods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop for
one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but
you're rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices.
Q Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (29-110zł).
PTAXS
Mollini B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 852 53 33,
www.mollini.pl. Pleasant new Italian venture delightfully
free of cliché pics of Vespa's, Loren and the Coliseum. In
fact, the only thing you'll find on the wall is wine, racks
and racks of wine. This place takes itself seriously, and
the menu is a knockout collection of faultless meals. This
could yet become one of the top restaurants in Poznań.
Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (20-50zł).
PTAEXSW
Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe C-3, ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),, tel. 061 859 65
70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Attached to the side of
the Stary Browar Shopping Mall Piano Bar rates as one
of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are
fantastic, with cream shades paired with moody lighting
and striking art exhibitions. Although you'll find all the
expected pasta and meat meals it's the fish that tends
to steal the show here, which is something of a result in
landlocked Poznań. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20-110zł).
PTAUEBXW
Kyokai Sushi Bar ul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. 0
519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Poznan's appetite for sushi
keeps growing, and Kyokai is the latest contender in the battle
of the chopsticks. Sushi sets revolve around a circular bar,
Tokyo-style, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it
all. The surroundings, set in a series of converted red brick
buildings, looks chic and industrial, while the location - amid
a high class shopping centre and hotel - mean no shortage
of well heeled sushi fans.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-55zł).
PTAUGSW
Sakana Sushi Bar D-2, ul. Wodna 7/1, tel. 061 853
16 39, www.sakana.pl. Five star sushi served inside a pale
vanilla coloured interior equipped with all the necessary rice
paper panels and bamboo extras. Raw fish circles the bar in
small wooden boats, ready to be snapped up by wasp-waisted
fashionista revelling in the chance to showoff deftly executed
chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
(50-80zł). PTJAUGSW
Sushi 77 D-2, ul. Woźna 10, tel. 061 853 33 86, www.
sushi77.com. A narrow restaurant serving fresh cuts of
sushi to Poznan’s growing band of Japanistas. Complimenting the fine raw fish are import beer and sake, as well as an
international wine card to go with your choice. You could visit in
daytime, and indeed many people do, but our suggestion is to
wait till dusk when the lights dim and the atmosphere steps up
a notch.QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-54zł). PTAGSW
Sushi Sekai C-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. 061 853 35 33,
www.sushisekai.pl. Your sushi sets come covertly prepared
behind the scenes and presented to you inside a smartly
appointed interior that features dark lacquered woods and
square paneled lamps. Great presentation (keep an eye for
the sushi sets laid out onto a wooden bridge structure), and
good flavours, as well as a series of more substantial main
courses such as beef sirloin in teriyaki sauce served on a
hot plate. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (7-70zł). PTAXS
CATERING AND DELIVERY AVAILABLE!
Jewish
Cymes D-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. 061 851 66 38, www.
Open: Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00
Sun: 13:00-22:00
SAKANA Sushi Bar
ul. Wodna 7/1
Poznań
tel. 61 853 16 39
www.sakana.pl
Made in Poland - Syrena
cymespoznan.pl. Time stands still in Cymes, where Poznań's
once rich Jewish heritage is perfectly preserved in a nostalgic
dining room sprinkled with menorahs, empire furniture and clothcapped jars. The menu quite literally tells the story of Jewish cuisine and bursts with familiar dishes like carp, czulent and chicken
skewers, presented by amiable white-shirted waiters. QOpen
13:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00. (18-34zł). TJABS
The sight of a Polish Maluch – a flimsy death trap on
wheels – is still common on the streets of Poland. Like the
Skoda in Czechoslovakia or the Trabant in East Germany
this was to become the defining engineering product of
communist Poland. Lesser known – essentially because
it was never exported - is the Warszawa Syrena, a nimble
vehicle inspired by the Russian Volga limousine.
Mexican
Its history dates from 1953 when the government took
the decision to design a ‘peoples car’, aimed specifically
at ‘labor leaders, scientists and intelligentsia’. Karol
Pionnier was put in charge of the design team and over
the next two years his crew worked tirelessly on producing a prototype. The car made its debut at the 1955
Poznań International Fair to national acclaim. Details
included an engine adapted from a motor used to power
water-pumps on fire engines, while the post-war scarcity of sheet metal meant that the frame was primarily
fashioned from wood.
Czerwone Sombrero B-3, ul. Piekary 17, tel. 061 852
61 01, www.czerwone-sombrero.pl. Granted, it's better
than The Mexican, but then so is sifting through a hospital
bin. Mexican food hasn't exported well to Poland, and here's
more proof. The salsa is tame, the tortillas from a packet
and the food buried under verdant fields of cabbage. It's
two star stuff frankly, though what makes it palatable is a
cracking atmosphere that's just perfect for tanking back
the tequila. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.
(20-38zł). TAIBSW
The Mexican C-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. 061 851 05
36, www.mexican.pl. Is the Polish food in Mexico this bad?
Boyish waiters dressed as cowboys greet diners at the door,
then lead you to take your chances on what might stand out
as the most shocking meal of your year. We'd like to see a
picture of the cook added to the Wanted posters, as the
man is clearly a charlatan of the most sinister design. Barely
defrosted tortillas arrive hidden under sickly green gunk that
wastes no time in letting the intestines know they're in trouble.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 13:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:30 - 01:00. (20-55zł). TAEBXS
By 1958 the Syrena – so named after the Mermaid symbol
of Warsaw – began rolling off the production line. Over the
next few years numerous models were developed, including the Syrena Sport (vaguely modelled on a Porsche) and
the 110 Limousine. By the time production was brought
to an end in 1983 over half a million had been produced,
with the car even making appearances during the Monte
Carlo Formula 1 rally in the 1960s; its driver, Stanisław
Wierzba, managing to miraculously score a pole position
finish during one qualifying heat. Today the one-lock car
is a collectors dream though all to rarely seen in public.
July - October 2009
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Quick Eats
Pizzerias
Ali Baba B-1, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. 061 853 32 71,
estella.com.pl. A spacious, traditional pizzeria with 45 types
of pizza and an equally daunting number of pasta dishes.
Long established, with a faithful set of followers who won't
eat pizza anywhere else.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (13-69zł).
PTJABXS
www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A decent sit-down venture with the
obligatory hunk of meat spinning on a skewer, and crowd of
post-club fatalities getting chili sauce down their trousers. Pics
of the middle east brighten the pastel coloured interior and the
late night snacks rate highly with anyone whose broken the
eight pint limit. Q Open 24hrs. (17-30zł). PAS
Canappka B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 37, tel. 061 852
35 14, www.canappka.pl. Cheap and cheery sandwich stop that could be the answer if you’re doing
lunch on the run. Think of it as a poor man’s Subway.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (3-13zł).
PTAUGSW
KFC E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1 (Poznan Railway Station),
tel. 071 386 15 85, www.kfc.pl. If you need food but
you’re at the train station then you’ve got two choices - food
poisoning or KFC. We’ve tried both, and recommend the
latter. A TV screen inside informs patrons of departures
and delays, and there’s a small hatchway facing one of the
platforms if you prefer to share dinner with the tramps and
pigeons.QOpen 05:00 - 04:00. (11-30zł). PTAS
McDonald’s B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, tel. 061
856 00 60, www.mcdonalds.pl. He might look like a
weird sex pest, but you’ve got to hand Ronald McDonald
his dues; the man knows how to make a good cheeseburger. Sometimes, that’s all that counts. Also on ul.
Głogowska 14 (E-4).QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 02:00. (12-17zł). PTAUGSW
Roti C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 061 851 68 87.
Poznan’s best kebab comes tightly packed in a tortilla
and served up by an enthusiastic boy clearly under the
impression that working in an all night kebab shop is
every bit as good as being an astronaut. Q Open 24hrs.
(6-18zł). PGS
Estella D-2, ul. Garbary 41, tel. 061 852 34 10, www.
Pizza Hut G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.
061 853 72 06, www.pizzahut.com.pl. Just what you'd
expect. Also on ul. Szwajcarska 14, ul. Murawa 104 and ul.
Kaspra Drużbickiego 2. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (20-40zł). PTAUGSW
Tivoli D-1, ul. Wroniecka 13, tel. 061 852 39 16, www.
pizzeriativoli.pl. A basic, intimate spot with wooden booths
and bunches of garlic and spices hanging everywhere. A
pioneer on the Poznań pizza scene since 1991, they serve
40 types of pizza with every ingredient you can think of and
a few that would never occur to you, like peach and banana.
Other locations can be found on Naramowicka 187 and
Czesława 3. Expect the same. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (1231zł). TJABXSW
Polish
Bamberka C-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. 061 852 99 17. A
long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of
buildings at the centre of the town square. Tiffany lamps,
stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardly formal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing
to detract from a strong European menu that includes several
local dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(25-50zł). PTJABXS
Poznań - Woźna 10 st., tel.: (61) 853 33 86 • Gdańsk - Długie Pobrzeże 30 st., tel.: (58) 682 18 23 • Koszalin - CH Forum, Paderewskiego 1 st., tel.: (094) 345 43 03 • Sopot Monte Cassino 53 st., tel.: (58) 555 53 85 • Warsaw - Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 49 av., tel.: (22) 489 68 90 - Polna 48 st., tel.: (22) 492 21 13 - Nowogrodzka 38 st., tel.: (22) 622 92 14
- Żelazna 41 st., tel.: (22) 890 18 11 • Wrocław - Nożownicza 1 C st., tel.: (71) 341 72 71 - CH Arkady Wrocławskie, Powstańcow Śląskich 2-4 st., tel.: (71) 336 12 35
NEW
Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99
90, www.blowuphall5050.com. Blow Up Hall will blow your
socks off. If you can't afford the hotel, and not many can, then
do at least spoil yourself and do the next best thing - visit for
dinner. Apparently named after some 60s art flick this place
really does leave you thinking you've travelled in time - approximately 200 years forward. The design is slick and sexy,
perfectly complimenting the post-industrial surrounds, while
the food involves artistically presented dishes such as cold
plum soup with vanilla ice cream, boar fillet and calf shin in
Chablis jelly; the typical Polish restaurant this most certainly
isn't. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Open
07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00-23:00. (80-115zł).
PAGBW
Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93
38, www.sioux.com.pl. They’re open pretty much
round the clock, though in truth no-one comes here until
they’ve just put in a nightshift on a local dance floor. It’s
during witching hours you’ll find a line of post-pub party
people swaying in unison outside, as they wait for t-shirted
cooks to weave their magic on burgers, sandwiches and
kebabs. All three look and taste the same, and come
bulked out with gherkins, onions, cabbage and sauce.Q
24hrs. (7-11zł). S
Dramat C-2, Stary Rynek 41, tel. 061 856 09 38, www.
dramat.com.pl. One of the few places in the Rynek where
you can enjoy a pile of food without peeling off a number
of banknotes. Serving a breakfast menu of sausages and
eggs, late risers will head straight into their main menu which
includes a pretty definitive list of Polish dishes - ranging from
pierogi and their assorted fillings to pork chops. Vast, with
stout wooden extending into the cellars and an amiable set
of staff keeping a watchful eye on their customers. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (1430zł). TAGBSW
Spagetheria C-2, Stary Rynek 76, tel. 061 852
32 85, www.avanti.poznan.pl. A no-frills sustenance
solution that possibly rates as the best bargain you’ll
find on the Rynek. The interiors are completely basic,
but the food does the talking here, with a variety of
very decent spaghetti combos to choose from. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(4-14zł). PTYJUGS
Sphinx A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. 061 852 07
02, www.sphinx.poznan.pl. The Sphinx chain have
cornered the quick and simple, budget dinner market,
with fans of all ages squishing between coloured lamps
and plastic trees to dine on burgers, kebabs and pizzas.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (14-46zł).
PTAUBXSW
POZNAŃ•GDAŃSK•KOSZALIN•SOPOT•WARSAW•WROCŁAW
Kresowa C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 853 12 91. This
standout restaurant in the centre of Stary Rynek is pleasantly
old-fashioned, with classic furniture and brisk waistcoated
staff serving up appetisers like caviar and shrimp cocktail,
and main dishes like veal, beef tenderloin and grilled salmon.
Remember to look up: the ceiling is covered with witty
caricatures of Polish celebrities who've eaten here, includpoznan.inyourpocket.com
ing Nobel laureate Czesław Miłosz and tennis star Wojciech
Fibak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (16-45zł).
PTJAEXS
Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Filled
with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that takes its ingredients
seriously; the fish are caught first thing in the morning, while
the duck apparently comes from the adjacent lake. Tell them
in advance and they'll spit-roast a pig for you. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-69zł). TAUIEBW
Markowa Knajpka C-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. 061
853 01 78. The village meets the city in Makowa Knajpka,
a whitewashed room featuring dark timber fittings and some
valium grooves. Excellent value local dishes are presented to
a thirty something crowd by a team of friendly bargirls whose
looks make the heart go ‘ping'. We've always settled for the
‘classic steak', and have yet to be disappointed.QOpen
13:00 - 23:00, Fri 13:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (25-52zł). AUEBXSW
NEW
Oaza ul. Koszalińska 15 (Jeżyce), tel. 0 601 70 30 80,
www.strzeszynek.pl. Set under a thatched roof Oaza isn't
the olde worlde hunters lodge you'd expect. On the contrary
the design is clean and modern, with plenty of open spaces
and natural light. It looks great, but how many times have we
seen a restaurant put style over substance. That doesn't
happen here, and that's all credit to a rather special chef.
The menu is best described as modern Polish, and includes
fresh catches from the local rivers and lakes, as well as fine
interpretations of dishes like beef stroganoff. QOpen 13:00
- 04:00. (30-86zł). PAUEBS
July - October 2009
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RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Pod Aniołem C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 852 98
54. Even the background din of big screen MTV doesn’t
distract from what is a pretty good feed. Fine diners are
going to run, but everyone else will appreciate the straight
forward style here – the food is deliciously simple; hunks
of meat cooked using local recipes and ser ved with
crinkly fries. It won’t win awards, but it most certainly will
fill any gap you’ve been minding. Cellos and fiddles hang
from the ceiling, while the collection of wood furnishings
and assorted junk lend themselves well to a pleasingly
scatty decor.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(16-35zł). AXS
Pod Dzwonkiem D-2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. 061 851 99
70, www.oberza.com.pl. Resembling a traditional mountain
lodge Under the Bell features a variety of rustic touches,
with timber beams loaded with rusting machinery, pumpkins
and ferns. Bar stools are fashioned out of saddles, while
elsewhere diners can sit on seating carved from barrels,
before ordering lavish helpings of ribs stewed in beer and
honey, or skewered animals fresh from the grill. Simple but
effective. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15-48zł).
TABXSW
Pod Koziołkami C-2, Stary Rynek 95, tel. 061 851 78
68, www.podkoziolkami.pl. A long standing restaurant
that has been delighting both carnivores and vegetarians for
years. Upstairs you'll find a huge pantry with the daily salads
and pierogi on the menu. Head downstairs to the grill cellar
for your daily protein quota. The interiors in this section are
authentically shadowy with a medieval flavour, while the menu
is a good range of meaty choices like sirloin steak. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-87zł). PTY
JAEBXSW
tions of traditional farmers fare. The menu here is meat and
potatoes classic Polish, with tables positively sinking under
the weight of all that cabbage, meat and vodka. Decorated
with jars of pickles and rusty saws this is the definitive local
dining experience, and a highly recommended way to kick
off your visit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(12-49zł). PTAGS
Spanish
Tapas Bar D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32,
www.tapas.pl. Right on the corner of the Rynek this Spanish
spot has long been popular with a cashed up local crowd.
Service is stone faced but everything else wins gold stars;
from a warm interior littered with wrought iron and Hispanic
paintings to the steaks, which we rate as some of the best
we've tried. The kitchen is right at the entrance, allowing
diners the opportunity to hear their food sizzle and chefs clattering around cursing less competent colleagues. Always a
good night, and sometimes excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (15-67zł). PJABX
Taste Barcelona C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar
II floor), tel. 061 278 76 86. Stary Browar keeps surprising us. Every shopping centre now claims to be ‘more than
a mall', but here's one that actually justifies the hyperbole.
Part of the reason is the endless stream of top notch eateries, and Taste Barcelona is one of the latest. The open plan
design leaves diners open to peering eyes, but there's no
faulting the aesthetics; clean, blond woods and coloured
bottles set behind an illuminated bar. On the menu good
quickie tapas bites cooked with confidence and presented
with flair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (1530zł). PAXSW
Ghosts!
Those foolhardy enough to face the supernatural should
consider a spot of ghost hunting. The former Royal
Castle (C-1, Góra Przemysła) is the place you need to
head to after dark. It’s here you may have the surprise
of spotting ‘the white lady’, Ludgarda, the wife of Duke
Przemysł II. Allegedly murdered in her bathtub by servants in 1283, some stories claim her death was ordered
at the behest of her husband. Nowadays her ghost is
said to roam what remains of the castle, sometimes with
the figure of a ‘black knight’ next to her, apparently a man
who was spotted crying at her funeral. There’s more
chance to see phantoms if you head outside Poznań.
Take for example the story of Halszka, a woman kept
captive in a tower by her jealous husband. Forced to
wear an iron mask during her fleeting trips to mass she
ended her days insane, and nowadays her demented
wailings can be heard haunting the tower of Szamotułchy
Castle 30 kilometres north west of Poznań. Finally, check
out Łagów Castle halfway between Poz and Berlin. The
spooky likeness of former castle commander Andreas
von Schlieben was first spotted here in 1820 when
the president of the Poznań Treasury saw the ghostly
shape of the knight engulfed in flames standing at the
foot of his bed. Since then he’s been spotted several
times, though only in spring and summer, and only by
men. Best of all, the castle is now a hotel, and weird
guests even have the choice of opting for a night in the
‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed this
is every gimp’s dream and comes complete with clunky
manacles suspended from the walls and other scary
bits and pieces.
Pod Złotą Jabłonią (Under The Gold Appletree)
UFOs
Wielkopolska is something of a hotspot for the paranormal, and it’s not just the ghosts we’ve warned you about
that go bump in the night. The district has also earned a
bit of a reputation for UFOs (or NOLs as they are called in
Poland). To date the most infamous case can be tracked
to 2001 when a 20 year old woman happened upon an
alien near Sieraków Lake. The 1.5 metre tall mantis-like
extra-terrestrial allegedly stared emotionlessly into the
eyes of the startled female before beating a speedy
retreat into the surrounding cornfields. Small footprints
were found the following day at the site, though efforts
to later identify them drew a blank. Most recently reports
of aerial weirdness have been filed in the region of Lake
Malta, as well as Jeżyce Forest. Świerkowski claims that
95% of such claims can be put down to changes in atmosphere that mankind simply hasn’t discovered yet, though
the other 5% of sightings remain an utter mystery. Real
enthusiasts though will head nowhere else but Wylatowo,
a small rural village situated halfway between Toruń and
Poznań. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped
object was photographed floating in the skies last year,
with lab tests since confirming that there were no camera
tricks or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s
not the only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop
circles first started appearing in the neighbouring fields
Wylatowo has established itself as a mecca for Polski
ufologists, While some claim the circles are the work
of savvy farmers looking to make a quick buck. X-Files
style investigations have yet to determine the cause of
this annual summer phenomena.
D-1, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.podzlotajablonia.com.pl. There's something a little covert
about dining here; lavish fittings and expensive looking
artwork lend something of a private club atmosphere to
this place. The menu is Polish influenced, though that does
nothing to stop the chefs from letting their imaginations
caper free - check out the duck in aniseed and honey.
Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (44-118zł).
PTAEXSW
Ratuszova C-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. 061 851 05 13,
www.ratuszova.eu. Either dine on the ground floor or
descend the stairs and into a sprawling cellar complete with
vaulted ceilings and knightly murals. Ribs, steak, duck and
other meaty meals come served by an efficient staff, and
serious meat eaters can satisfy their bloodlust by ordering the
Ratuszova plate; it includes three types of meat and feeds a tiger.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72zł). PTJAGBSW
W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda A-1, ul. Fredry 12, tel.
061 665 88 01, www.w-z.pl. W-Z is nothing less than an
A-Z of Polish cooking, with everything from pancakes to pierogi
to pork knuckle to deal with. This place is vast, and comes
rammed with the obligatory timber décor, flower pots and
tree branches. Definitely a first stop to get acquainted with
the local dinner habits, and highly recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (13-51zł). PTJAXSW
NEW
Wiejskie Jadło D-2, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul.
Franciszkanska), tel. 061 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. What was once known as Chłopskie Jadło has changed
it's name and absolutely nothing else. Which is good news
all round; complimentary bread and lard precede hefty por-
July - October 2009
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CAFÉS
Atmosfera (Atmosphere) D-1, ul. Mokra 2, tel.
061 851 03 99. Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west should make a beeline here. Going
completel y against the grain these gu ys have taken
the inspired step of getting rid of their no-smoking section; good work lads. This is a cracking cafe/bar, its
two floors complete with creaking floorboards, fragile
cabinets, weird ar twork and huddles of academics leafing through notebooks. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. AW
CAFÉS
Cafe Sekret C-2, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. 0 605 41 33
28, www.cafesekret.pl. A right little treasure this place,
with a scattering of chambers set amid vaulted bricks walls
and cobbled flooring. Dimly lit, and decorated with bursts
of flowers and fruit, the owner appears to have something
of a liking for brown - a nice colour for chocolate, yes, not
so striking when thrown on furniture. Nevertheless, this
café is a corker, and a bit of a favourite with the local
cognoscenti. The house specialty is the ‘apple fantasy’,
and it tastes all the better if the turtle-necked pianist is in
residence.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
EBXSW
Pod Pretekstem (Under a Veil) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin
80/82 (entrance from ul. Kościuszki 79), tel. 061
853 30 47, www.podpretekstem.pl. A quirky café/bar/
restaurant situated round the back of the Zamek. Trumpets
hang from the ceiling and giant beetles adorn the walls.
Art nouveau details abound with several oddities thrown
in, and while the staff can frustrate with their mute and
meek approach this remains one of the top café bars in
the city. Every so often the lights dim and a pianist dressed
in a cat black polo neck takes to the stage; worth the
visit alone. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PTAEBXSW
Caffe Ławka D-1, ul. Żydowska 8, tel. 061 853 43
Pomarańcza D-1, ul. Żydowska 26, tel. 061 852 40
Cacao Republika C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 855
43 78. Full of rattan and spindly plants this slightly staid
coffee stop benefits from its location, just round the corner
from the square. Atmosphere is somewhat lacking, a fault
compensated by freshly roasted coffee beans and a wide
range of herbal teas.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00. TJASW
48. A super cafe bar with a girly Laura Ashley design in the
front, and a great garden out the back. Lying in between is
a temporary building site, meaning you’ll be stepping over
hammers and spanners as Polski builders clank around
you. It’s well worth the brush with the working class, the
garden is ace, and if you’re lucks in you’ll be treated to
the sound of a talented neighbour practising violin. On
the menu a vast choice of desserts and teas, as well as
frozen smoothies made using the fruits of the season.
Q Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
TAEXSW
Cafe Bordo D-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3, tel. 061 851
Cocorico D-2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. 061 852 95 29.
Post-Office Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. 061
670 64 48. It took us months to locate this place, it’s
that small - find it yourself by pointing your beak towards
those colourful burgher buildings right by the town hall.
Set on two levels this pumpkin-sized cafe features a
postal theme with the Queen’s head embossed onto the
surfaces, and a loyal fan base who squeeze in to enjoy
Japanese-style omelettes (no, we’ve no idea ei ther)
and other international oddities. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00.
ABSW
Behemot D-1, ul. Kramarska 16, tel. 0 784 52 25 11.
The cat lovers choice. Find cat pictures adorning every possible space, some cute, some scary. A gigantic stock of teas,
and decent selection of desserts are at your disposal. The
dark lighting makes it a good spot for an intimate encounter.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. J
00 81, w w w.cafebordo.com. The garden is one of
the best in town; stuffed with flower pots, vines and a
fountain. Alternatively head indoors where the aroma
of herbal tea hangs thick in the air, and a middle-aged
crowd whisper amid fli ckerin g candles and b ot tles
of wine. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
TJABXW
Best known for its fairytale garden Cocorico would still warrant a visit even if sun felt out of the sky. In colder times bolt
yourself inside amid a charming topsy-turvy interior heaving
with chintz and sepia photographs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
JABS
Czekolada D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 92 91,
www.czekoladacafe.pl. A trendy version of Willie Wonka’s
chocolate factory. Stark white walls, earth coloured drapes
and chill-out tunes generate an edgy atmosphere. The staff
are brilliant, the clientele wear black and the toilet has to
be the most space-age in Poznań. The menus, attached to
big wooden sticks, cover all imagainable chocolate perversions: from chocolate fondue to ‘Mexican chocolate chicken’.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. TJABSW
Filigrando Cafe & Lunch C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar), tel. 061 667 12 15, www.filigrando.pl. Just
as Stary Browar has proved to be much more than a mall
Filigrando proves to be much more than a café. Placed in
the part that connects the new and old wing of Stary Browar
this fancy café isn’t unlike climbing into a wedding cake, what
with all the frills and snow white colours. Crammed with bird
cages, bits of straw and racks of wine this place is an aesthetic pleasure, and far beyond the café stops usually found
in malls. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. PTAUEBXSW
Kawka D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 852 60 70. A
popular spot for afternoon coffee or an after-work beer, the
windows here always appear to catch the sunlight. Sporting
a style that falls between artsy and rural, Kawka features
black-and-white prints, a piano and a cupboard topped with
a battered suitacase. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 24:00. PJAS
Pożegnanie z Afryką A-2, ul. Szkolna15 (entrance from
ul. Jaskólcza), tel. 061 855 33 49, www.pozegnanie.
com. View coffee contraptions of every size and style inside
this nationwide chain. Equipped with bags of beans and jars
of coffee leaves this place looks every inch a contender, and
the drinks menu is truly global in its scope. QOpen 10:00 21:00. Closed Sun. AGS
67. Poznań’s café strip gets better with the addition of Pomarancza. Modern art combines with decent teas and coffee
though the lasting impression will be of the orange theme;
find everything from chunky orange candlesticks to mandarins
sitting inside flowerpots in this cheerful neighbourhood café.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. JAE
Red Erik Café C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów),
tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Home to a
number of bars, restaurants and cafes the Dom Vikingow
complex is a self-contained ex-pat world, and what is
known as the Red Erik bar is the most prominent venue of
the lot. Occupying the ground floor this restobar crossover
packs out the moment work finishes as off-duty business
bods take to the bar to size up the cocktails and impress
blonde bargirls with their faltering grasp of the local lingo.
Always a smashing night out, with an all-purpose menu
that unites dishes from across the world, including curries, wraps, burgers and steaks.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
TABW
Soho D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 221 70 45, www.
cafesoho.pl. A small one-window affair piled with orangeish
sofas and armchairs. The artwork on the walls changes
regularly: on our visit a quirky photographic homage to the
Mini Cooper. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JABSW
Stacja Cafe (The Station) D-2, ul. Woźna 1 (etrance
from ul. Klasztorna), tel. 0 509 50 80 49. Sink into one of
the armchairs and enjoy one of Poznań’s best kept secrets.
Cluttered with board games and framed pictures expect a
murky Krakowian ambience. Clarinets and violins hang from
walls, the music is soft and moody and the interior complete
with stone cobbles and a street light. If that doesn’t set the
pulse racing, a stolen glance at the barmaid will. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.
PXS
Umberto D-1, ul. Żydowska 28, tel. 061 851 54 52,
www.umberto.com.pl. In the thick of Poznan’s cafe quarter
Umberto has a trattoria atmosphere and a concise menu of
Italian mains. A popular destination on a street not short on
culinary stars.QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00.
TAGBS
The Enigma Code
The vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle of
Britain, who represented one in eight Allied pilots and
whose 303 Squadron boasted the best hit rate against
the Luftwaffe, is today common knowledge. As is the
role Polish forces played in breaking the siege of Monte
Cassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesser
known Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in
1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took place
inside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack the
German Enigma code. What’s this got to do with Poznań,
we hear you ask. Well, it all began here, namely in the
mathematics class of Poznań’s University. Ace students
Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski came
to the attention of Polish intelligence services on account
of their excellent German skills and sharp mathematical
minds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsaw
alongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the three
were set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. It
was here they made the first vital Engima breakthrough
using a mathematical theorem since described as ‘the
theorem that won WWII.’
On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the three
fled to Romania where they immediately sought contact
with the Allies. Originally they turned up at the British
Embassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘come
back in a few days’ decided to try their luck with the
French instead. This proved more successful and from
there they found themselves in France, working in Cadix,
a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupied
south. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growing
greater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned at
sea in 1942 after the boat carried him sank in suspicious
circumstances, Zygalski and Rejewski however made it to
Spain, in spite of being robbed by the man guiding them
over the Pyrenees. More calamity followed: the pair were
arrested by Spanish police and imprisoned, only freed
the following year after intervention by the Red Cross.
Seeking sanctuary in England they were employed in
Boxmoor cracking simple SS codes. In spite of having
done the groundwork that broke the original Enigma
code their knowledge was not called on by the American
and British codebreakers who were cracking new and
improved Enigma codes at Bletchley Park, hence the
vital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade in
the memory. After the war Rejewski returned to Poland
where he spent the rest of his days under scrutiny from
internal security services, and working in a succession
of menial jobs. When he published his life story in 1973
he became an unwitting superstar, and his work was
finally recognized with a series of honours. He died in
1980, buried in Warsaw’s Powązki Cemetery. Zygalski
chose to remain in England and spent the post-war
years working as a maths teacher. He died in 1978 and
is buried in London.
Although the trio have since received numerous posthumous awards their role in winning the war remains
a little-known fact in the West, a cause not helped by
silver screen rubbish like the 2001 movie Enigma. Since
1983 a memorial tablet at Poznań University’s Collegium
Majus has been in place honouring the three, and in
2006 an obelisk bearing their names was unveiled on
ul. Św. Marcin in what was formerly the Maths Department of the uni.
July - October 2009
53
NIGHTLIFE
54
Poznan bars are flexible - no matter what the official
closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until
the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots
are concentrated around the Old Town Square area, but
also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego and ul. Taczaka both of
whom draw students in their droves.
Bars & Pubs
Academic Pub B-3, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. 061 853 69
80. While the name suggests you’ll find crowds of intellectual
swats you can rest assured that the last thing the students
who drink here have on their mind is tomorrow’s lecture. This
is a plain brick cellar with décor limited to wooden benches
and promotional bumph announcing the availability of Red Bull
and Lech. The juke box seems to play a continuous cycle of
Polish pop hits, while the toilet never ceases to amaze with its
sights and smells.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
Agawa E-3, ul. Mickiewicza 28, tel. 061 847 23 27,
www.dart.dmf.pl. Darts heaven. Do your drinking inside a
colourful environment of plastic trees and orange walls while
the thump of darts missing their target sounds off in the
background. The backroom here is lined with electronic darts
boards, buzzing and whirring furiously as amateur sportsmen
practice their noble pursuit. If you're here for a while then
broaden your social horizons by joining one of their leagues.
Ask at the bar for details. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sun
14:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PBX
Barcode C-2, Stary Rynek 53/54, tel. 0 668 09 10 09,
www.barcode-poznan.pl. An itsy little cocktail bar with room
for about twelve people, or fifteen if they're small. Decorated
in muted cream and chocolate colours this place has a mildly
retro air, pre-club choons and a frightened little blond thing
peeking over the bar. It is a cocktail bar, though you'll be lucky
to find any flair or flamboyance employed in the making of your
drink.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Bee Jay's C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15,
www.beejays.pl. It could only work in Poznan. Find cherubs,
stained glass and bagpipes squeezed amidst flashing disco
lights and lairy promotional material supplied by Red Bull.
The music is loud, and often rubbish, but Beejay’s still wins
customers on account of a good spread of seats, decent
drinks selection, and some good lookers behind the bar. They
do food, but then so do prisons.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJAIEW
Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99 91,
www.blowuphall5050.com. Woah, if there's one place that's
left an impact this issue it's the Blow Up. The bar is the final
word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork
and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad,
and deliberately messes with your head, as do the cocktails,
truly the work of a scientific hand. As for the bar itself, that's
a multi-angled, zinc plated masterpiece that has no rival. It's
not often we attach the words unmissable to a venue, so take
note and visit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PAEBW
NEW
Blueberry bar B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, www.blueber-
rybar.pl. Where do glittery disco balls go when they die? To
Poznan of course. The city loves them, and nowhere more so
than Blueberry. White and minimal the design here involves
lots of awkward angles and multi-coloured lights, while its apparent success appears as further proof of Sw. Marcin's rapid
resurgence. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PUEW
NIGHTLIFE
Blue Note Jazz Club A-1, ul. Kościuszki 76/78,
tel. 061 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. A vast
multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of
90s club tragedy written all over it - don't let that fool you,
this venue is a legend, with some of the biggest names
in Polish and international jazz performing in the past. Do
check what's cooking beforehand mind; this space has been
known to be rented out for teen hip hop nights and other
hooded-top twaddle. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 03:00. PAE
Bodega Cafe D-1, ul. Żydowska 4, tel. 061 851 00 94.
This is where the local night cats head to when they grow
up. Popular with a late twenties crowd Bodega features low
lounge seating, chocolate colours and subdued lighting.
Find the wine room outback.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. PAB
Bogota A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 71 33,
www.bogotaclub.pl. Bogota? Bog standard, more to the
point. This place is as Colombian as your garden shed, with
nothing to cheer this bland basement waste other than some
token scraps of Aztec art and a collection of uncomfortable
benches. At a guess there approximately 100 better bars to
visit. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed
Sun. PAGW
Brogans Irish Pub D-1, ul. Szewska 20a, tel. 061
852 50 73, www.brogans.pl. Loud, smoky and slightly
murky, Brogan's is everything you expect from an Irish pub,
with a cracking atmosphere that brings to mind the hazy
air of your neighborhood local. Visual diversions come
courtesy of tankards, chess boards and street signs, while a
regular rotation of international guest beers keep the crowd
clinking glasses way into the night.QOpen 14:00 - 05:00.
PJAEX
Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel.
061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Drink Poznań's best
beer alongside business travelers talking contracts and
native high-fliers courting the attentions of the local sex
sirens. Out in the back a large room crammed with copper
vats and dials produces the three house beers, while in
the front find a modern design that combines steel and
glass in tasteful style. Never a quiet night, and definitely
a nominee for bar of the year. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00.
PJABXW
Browar Pub C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shop-
ping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. A
huge drinking complex featuring copper brewing vats, plenty
of booze food and the atmosphere of a ribald beer hall. Cut
out queues and middlemen by booking a table with a private
beer tap.QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PAXW
Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Sieroca 10, tel. 061 852 33
99, w w w.buddhabar-poznan.pl. A nightclub inside an
Indian restaurant? You've ever y right to be suspicious.
What works as a restaurant (and an ou tstanding one
at that), simpl y doesn't float our boat as a club. I t
looks great, bu t i t appears the pin-up par ty people
have dri f ted away since this venue first opened i ts
d o ors. B y all m eans com e for fo o d, go elsewh ere
for the par ty. The music, incidentall y, is nothing like
you'd expect from a venue making use of the Buddha
name - no loun ge or trance tracks h ere, just char t
noise interspersed wi th the occasional bhangra beat.
Q Open 21:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAUX
Cactus Factoria D-2, ul. Ślusarska 5, tel. 0 510 11 18 02,
www.cactusfactoria.com.pl. A multi-level restaurant, bar, club
mutant with black/red colours, latin music and some mysterious
spongey fabric on the walls outback. Strangely, in spite of being
in possession of enough booze to sink the Titanic, they couldn't
fix a margarita; fortunately with staff this stunning it's a fault that
gets quickly overlooked. The upstairs section houses the club,
and it's been known to get pretty lively come the weekend.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PABXW
Café Plotka D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 19
33, www.plotka.poznan.pl. Framed pictures of ducks sit
alongside china plates and other associated frilly extras.
We're undecided whether this is a bar or a café - the cakes
standing on the corner suggest the former, the giggling gangs
of middle-aged girls on the razzle suggest the latter. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. JA
NEW
Celtic C-2, ul. Murna 3, tel. 0 505 613 719, www.
celticirishpub.com. First things first, they serve Guinness,
but not in the manner to which you'll be accustomed. The
black stuff here comes tipped from tins before getting zapped
into shape under some sort of space age laser. Granted, it's
a process that cuts out human error, but it's not exactly a
method that would win approval back in Eire. Nor would the
lack of Sky Sports or heart tickling fry-ups. Everything feels a
little false and forced here, and no amount of Celtic posters
and Irish flags can disguise that. Nonetheless the bar girl is
ace, the drinks cheap and the juke box packed with sing along
hits - this could yet emerge as a decent addition to the local
nightlife. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PAW
ul. Murna 3, 61-771 Poznań
tel. 505 613 719
www.celticirishpub.com
[email protected]
Open: Mon-Sat 6 pm - 3 am
Sun 6 pm - 11.30 pm
Corner Pub A-2, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. 061 633 23 32,
www.corner-pub.pl. It's on a corner, down a basement
and full of students. You need know nothing more about this
venue, other than it's immensely popular with people willing
to sacrifice design extras for near giveaway beer.QOpen
08:00 - 05:00. PEB
Coxy's D-2, ul. Woźna 11, tel. 061 221 97 74, www.
klubcoxys.pl. There might be hope for Coxy's yet. When
this place opened it was hyped as an alternative to Dom
Vikingow's Sports Bar. The competition has closed (inexplicably), making Coxy's by default the one expat friendly sports
pub in town. Lined with framed football shirts and assorted
football detritus this venue comes into its element whenever
there's a big match on, and gets a decent weekend following of
stag nights and students.QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PAEW
Czerwony Fortepian D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18 (entrance
from ul. Mokra), tel. 061 852 01 74, www.czerwonyfortepian.pl. An upscale restaurant and bar that markets
itself as the classiest jazz joint in town - which might account
for the snidey, snooty, what-the-hell-do-you-want attitude of
your waiter. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a private club,
and the interiors are all the better since a recent renovation
saw all the previous furnishings auctioned off to a Paris
brothel. Now it's a super cool vanilla design with scrubbed
bricks and a back-lit bar, with the only surviving remnant from
times gone being the 100 year old piano. QOpen 17:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAEXW
Déja Vu Café D-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. 0 502 03 38 87. A
trip to Deja Vu is essential for anyone wishing to masquerade
as a student. This place is full of them, and little more than
a series of plainly decorated rooms that simmer with noise
at all hours. Boozy and basic with a hangover guaranteed.
QOpen 09:30 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. JW
Night at a glance
Lads Brogan’s Irish Pub serves a cracking range of
beers, though if you’re looking for Sky Sports then you’ll
find yourself heading to the more upmarket confines of
Someplace Else in the Sheraton. Brovaria has excellent
lagers brewed on-site, though loud and lairy antics are
neither appreciated nor tolerated. Why not head to
Rooster instead (see Where to Eat), where beer comes
courtesy of girls in itsy hotpants.
Splurge The best cocktails in Poznan are found in the
Blow Up, which is conveniently situated close to the most
exclusive danceteria in town – SQ. Look the part if you
want to be accepted into either. To mix with expats and
local corporate types then take your portfolio to either
Dom Vikingow or Brovaria, or mix with a local 20s new
money set in Buddha or Habana.
Couples Another vote for Blow Up Hall, the best destination for seduction cocktails. For smooth sounds
and sexy design then look into Czerwony Fortepian, an
upmarket jazz bar, or check out the bar and back gardens
of Zydowska. For wine then take a taxi out to Mielzynski
Wine Bar, a fantastic post-industrialist space run by a
true enthusiast.
Local Glimpse the past by drinking in the commie themed
confines of PRL and Proletaryat, or drink with local art
types in the bars like Pod Minoga and W Starym Kinie.
More central though, Dragon draws a late-to-bed crowd
of slacker drunks, while Za Kulisami is a spit and sawdust
venue popular with both students and dropouts.
July - October 2009
55
56
NIGHTLIFE
Hindenburg
As Poland’s fifth largest city, and one of its
oldest, it’s sensible to
assume a few famous
faces have been born
h ere. In d e e d a qui ck
glance through history
reveals an almost pantomime lineup of goodies
and baddies. And as far
as famous faces go they
don’t get more distinctive than the lumbering
walrus fram e of Paul
von Hindenburg, field
marshal extraordinaire
and one of th e most
recognizable statesmen
of the 20th century. His life started here, on Podgorna
6 to be precise, where he was born in 1847 in what
was then known as the Prussian city of Posen. Raised
by a family of vague aristocratic bearing, and a mother
of distinctly less noble blood, he spent his youth on
Podgorna, and his house still stands to this day. In fact,
it’s actually possible to pop in for a beer, though to do
so would mean stepping foot inside a ghastly bimbo bar
called Fashion Cafe.
In all likelihood Hindenburg would have slipped into
obscurity had it not been for WWI. Recalled to military
service at the grand age of 66 the hitherto unknown
military man masterminded Germany’s victory at Tannenburg in 1914, a battle which left the defeated Russian army crippled. The result catapulted the whiskered
Hindenburg to fame, and further victories, acclaim and
promotions followed, culminating in his 1916 appointment as Chief of General Staff. A personality cult took
root, and it wasn’t rare to find donations to the war
effort nailed onto the wooden statues of him which had
mushroomed across Germany. In fact, to all intents and
purposes, Hindenburg had become more important than
the Kaiser, certainly more popular. He withdrew gently
from the public view in the wake of the armistice, but
returned with a bang when he was elected President of
Germany in 1925. In spite of the perilous social state of
Germany Hindenburg’s time at the helm is remembered
fondly, and as the 1920s rolled to a close he did what
he could to limit the growing influence of Hitler’s Nazis.
‘Gentlemen, I hope you will not hold me capable of appointing this Austrian corporal to be Reich Chancellor’,
he is noted as telling his inner circle. However he was
forced to do just that in 1933, and by this time the
now senile Hindenburg had lost much of his standing.
Nonetheless, the ailing Hindenburg still vetoed Hitler’s
proposed bill which called for the immediate sacking of
all Jews employed in the civil service. Although Hitler
was keen to present a public show of respect for Hindenburg, he privately resented him and could often be
overheard cursing the ‘old reactionary’ and wishing for
his death. Hitler’s hopes were heard, and the following
year Hindenburg succumbed to lung cancer, giving Hitler
a free reign on Germany. He was buried a national hero
at Tannenberg (now called Stebark in Poland), though
with WWII reaching its close his remains were spirited
away by the retreating Germans to Marburg an der Lahn.
He rests there to this day.
NIGHTLIFE
Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061
851 51 17. E xpect a cacophony of noise the moment
the local football side are beamed onto the plasma
screen. This is your traditional spor ts pub effor t, with
generous b ench ed booths, posters of frothing beer
mugs and photographs of footballs finest amphi theatres. Brass lamps and Lech Poznań scar ves hang from
newly varnished sur faces, and even the dominance of
Warka sponsored furnishings fails to cool the bubbling
atmosphere. No Sk y Spor ts, but you can catch English
league action on the Canal Plus channel. Q Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAX
Dragon C-1, ul. Zamkowa 3, tel. 061 853 08 19,
w w w.dragon.krzyk.pl. If you meet any shell-shocked
expats wh o look like th ey've just tumbled ou t of b ed
a minu te earli er th e ch an c es are you'll s o on fin d
th em mumblin g somethin g ab ou t b ein g ‘dra goned'.
That's local lexicon for get tin g completel y trousered
in one of th e b est bars in Poz. Frequen ted by all-nigh t
weirdoes Dra gon is all reject furni ture, steel mesh
imb edded in to peelin g plaster walls and th e bracin g
smell of spilla ge and smoke. Ar tsy films and visuals
come projected on to th e walls while stoned dropou ts
form human pyramids on jumble sale sofas. O verlookin g th e b edlam is a dra gons h ead burstin g ou t from
above th e bar area. Priceless. Q Open 10:30 - 05:00.
JAEBW
Eskulap ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Grunwald), tel. 061
665 88 02, www.eskulap.art.pl. A cult venue with something always going on. There's plenty of live acts, concerts
and DJs entering the fray here, and while it's not much design
wise it gets absolutely chockablock come weekends with the
alternate party crowd.QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. AEXW
Estadio Spor ts Bar & Restaurant F-3, ul.
Miełżyńskigo 16 (enter from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel.
061 855 33 21, w w w.estadio.com.pl. A big and
shiny sports bar with naked brick walls, black and white
finishes and lots of reflective surfaces. It looks pretty
good, but a sports bar should be judged on the sports it
broadcasts - here it's Polish cable only, with Sky Sports
and Setanta an aberrant fantasy. Q Open 14:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
PABXSW
Fashion Cafe C-2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. 061 855
75 57, w w w.fashioncafe.com.pl. This is what happens when someone with bad taste and pots of money
is gi ven license to open a place. Wi th a flimsy, flashy
interior you reall y have to be a cer tain type to drink
in this teenie trap. Consider i t Vegas on the cheap.
Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. PAEBW
F.B.I Poznan C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 0 506 163
029. FBI to some people, the Finest Bar in Poznan to
others. It's big, black and shiny, and while it looks like a
kick ass cocktail den you can't help but wonder where
all the people are. It's empty, disconcer tingly so, but
use that to your advantage and test your chat on the
Miss Polska bargirls - after all, they've nothing better
to do than enter tain the sleaz y over tures of the foreign
stud. Numerous bars and restaurants have tried their
luck in this location, all have failed; could this be the
one that breaks the duck? Q Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PAXW
LISTEN CLASSIC ROCK/POP MUSIC 1959-2009
&
DANCE THU - SAT
ul. Wielka 9
61-744 Poznan
www.johnnyrocker.pl
TRY
FEEL
BEST WHISKEY AT THE BEST PRICE
UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE
OPEN:
Mon – Thu 18:30 – 00:00
Fri – Sat
18:30 – 03:00
Fever G-3, Stary Rynek 82, tel. 061 851 80 22, www.
fever-club.com. Pay tribute to the days of Roller Girl and
Travolta inside this kitschy seventies throwback. They've gone
for an orange look, and topped it off with lots of fur trim, huge
lights and those funny plastic seats that must have seemed
positively space age when they first rolled off the production
line. The retro fad has gone down a storm with the locals, and
empty seats are more the exception than the norm. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PAUXSW
Fontanna Czekolady C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 9, tel. 061
852 67 23, www.fontannaczekolady.pl. The tunnelshaped Fontanna looks like it never ends. It does, in fact, usually the moment you collide with the full length mirror standing
at the end of the bar. There's a distinctly retro aesthetic here
with the purple sofas, dimmed lighting and chandeliers harking
back to the days of Boogie Nights excess. A good pre-club
stop, affirmed by the presence of the night vamps freshly
touched up for a night on the prowl.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAUX
Fort Colomb A-3, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. 0
601 55 02 35, www.fortcolomb.pl. An old brick fortress-cum
pub found in Park Marcinkowskiego. The interior is standard:
exposed brick, local radio for music, and it appears popular
with lads wearing World Gym t-shirts and practising hard man
stares. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. EB
In Flagranti D-1, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. 061 853 32 50,
www.inflagrantipoznan.pl. A voluptuous venue where everything comes bathed in rich crimson shades and the dim flicker
of tea candles. Smokers get shunted up the stairs on the top
floor, in a large room decked out with dark woods, brass pots
and assorted shrubbery, while a great selection of chillout
tunes help complete the effortless transition of day into night.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. PAUBX
Johnny Rocker D-2, ul. Wielka 9, tel. 061 853 62
32, www.johnnyrocker.pl. Step into Johnny Rocker and
you'd be forgiven for thinking you've inadvertently entered a
warehouse, what with all the barrels, pipes, tubes and dials.
Worry not, take the metal stairs and follow the noise coming
from the basement and you'll locate Poznan's best worst kept
secret. Decked out in neo-industrial fashion this labyrinthine
cellar comes with bits of metal hanging from the walls, a crow
standing behind the bar and posters advertising avant-garde
drum workshops. Add to this a staunch commitment to rock
music and whisky paraphernalia and it's almost possible to
imagine that fella from Guns'n'Roses walking in with his top
hat and snake. Our favourite detail: the blokes toilet, where
pictures of women holding tape measures stare directly at
nervous lads using the urinal. QOpen 18:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
18:30 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAEX
Kamea D-1, ul. Wroniewska 22, tel. 061 851 72 11. A
genuine labour of love, this gallery-cum-bar is filled with jazzy
sounds, vases of flowers and wooden cupboards. Sink into
one of the leather armchairs and admire the artwork hanging from the walls, or choose from one of the largest cocktail
lists in the city. Often empty, but never disappointing.QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAEBX
Kisielice B-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. 061 665 84 84, www.
kisielice.com. A one in a million haven of individuality, the K Hole is
possibly Poznań's best known bar, and certainly its best. The crowd
comprises of a cross section of social dropouts, to a man waiting
on a book deal, record contract or exam results, while the music
policy is completely bonkers; anything obscure will get airtime here.
The Warholesque interior is the perfect backdrop for the permissive
behaviour that is expected at nightfall, with staff matching customers shot for shot into the daft, murky hours. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. EW
Krzysztof Komeda (1931-1969)
Born in Poznań, 1931, Krzysztof Komeda stands out as
one of Poland’s finest music talents, and remains, even in
death, a source of inspiration. He studied piano from an
early age, and was inducted into Poznań’s conservatory
in 1939. Though the war disrupted his studies it is also
credited with landing him his name. Born Krzysztof Trzciński
he found himself nicknamed Komeda after scrawling the
word on a wall – he had meant to write ‘komenda’ (as in
command post) – while playing with his mates. The local
partisans had a good laugh over it and from there the name
stuck. With the war over he resumed his musical aspirations and started playing in the subterranean jazz dens of
Kraków. He juggled his burgeoning musical career with a
job at a health clinic, and it was here his pseudonym took
root; keen to hide his nocturnal life from his employees he
started performing under the name Krzysztof Komeda. His
band scored success at the 1956 Sopot Music Festival,
and he re-christened his charges the Krzysztof Komeda
quartet. They became the first Polish band to play modern
jazz, and his spoken poetry won fans far and wide. He
started collaborating with film directors and wrote scores
for Roman Polanski’s classics Knife in the Water and
Rosemary’s Baby among numerous others. Like all the
greats his death is shrouded in mystery; some claim a car
accident in LA, others a mountain fall, while Roman Polaśki
claims it was during a drunken grappling bout with writer
Marek Hłasko. The truth will never be known. Credited with
influencing a whole generation he stands out as one of the
immortals of Polish music, and his memory is honoured by
the annual Komeda Jazz Festival in Słupsk.
July - October 2009
57
58
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Klepsydra D-2, ul. Paderewskiego 11, tel. 061
Lost Poznań
An exploration of the back streets of Poznań reveals
countless corners hitherto left untouched by the
guidebooks, and this is never more evident than standing
at the foot of (C-1) Góra Przemysła. While at first glance
the hillock looming in front of you appears to be little
more than a steep path and a scattering of ruins it is of
course much more than that.
This was formerly the site of a royal castle, with original
construction dated to approximately 1274. It was
built on the whim of Przemsył II and served as a royal
residence for the next couple of centuries. By the time
Kazimierz Wielki had finished expanding it the castle
stood out as the biggest non-ecclesiastical building in
Poland, though its fortunes took a dramatic turn for the
worse when marauding Russians destroyed much of it
in 1704. From there on it ceased to operate as a royal
residence, used instead to house an archive and a
court. A special chamber was kept aside to display the
rotting corpses of executed villains, and one courtier,
Józef Rufus Wybicki, would go on to achieve fame by
penning the Polish national anthem in 1791. The 18th
century marked a patchy time for the castle; it enjoyed
spurts of restoration and renovation, interespersed with
neglect, eventually falling into complete disrepair until
1783 when Kazimierz Raczyński opted to construct a
classicist building on the site to function as his HQ. Alas,
just ten years later the Prussians had other designs, and
flattened Raczyński’s palace to make way for a rather
boring one storey building.
The area was smashed to pieces during the Soviet siege
and in 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s
contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied
Arts Museum. Today the only original elements to survive
are the ancient cellars, though plans are now afoot to
rebuild the castle using a blend of Gothic, renaissance
and contemporary styles.
And what of the hill itself? Apparently that’s the work of
the devils. According to local legend a group of demons
were irritated by the number of churches springing up
in the Poznań region and so hatched a plot to flood the
area by dumping the Nia hill – found in the neighbouring
forests – into the river Warta. The nasty buggers stood
in a circle and used their collective energies to lift it,
before flying off in the direction of the river. Fortunately
the shriek of a rooster startled them mid-flight, and
they dropped the hill onto what is now Poznań, hence
scuppering their dastardly plan.
852 15 39. A second-floor bar with a cut-price menu
and ghastly decorations that sit alongside a traditional
wood-car ved bar and ceiling paintings of old Poznań.
A preponderance of plantlife hinders the views of old
town, forcing patrons to focus on the frequent bouts of
karaoke. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
PJEBX
Klub Galeria Shisha A-3, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. 0 500
37 23 72, www.shisha.net.pl. On the Taczaka pub crawl
route, so find plenty of students zig-zagging around this
Egyptian-themed haunt. Wall-paintings of falcon-winged
gods and pharaohs keep an eye on the fun, with a series
of hookah pipes to cloud the evening. Take to the cream
leather armchairs to make the most of the spaced out
atmosphere. A great detour to the one dimensional spit
and sawdust atmosphere of the nearby beer halls. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00. PW
Klub Zak D-1, ul. Szyperska 2, tel. 061 855 34 83,
www.klubzak.pl. Book readings, film screenings, ar t
exhibitions, sports screenings and ribald revelry make Zak
somewhat of a winner on Poznań's student circuit. Bricks,
benches and wood are the interior ingredients, and the live
music includes jazz, blues and folk tunes, all lapped up by a
crowds of drinkers lost in the fog of smoke. Traditional pubs
sports like table football and darts encourage displays of
one-upmanship. QOpen 18:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 06:00. PAEX
Kultowa C-3, ul. Wrocławska 16, tel. 061 853 43 27,
www.kultowa.pl. An urbane pre-club bar aimed at a twenty
something audience. The interior is black and modern, and
finding seats can pose a challenge come the weekend.
QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PAEW
NEW
La Rambla Tapas Bar i Wino D-2, ul. Wodna 5/6, tel.
0 618 52 37 21, www.larambla.pl. You'll love La Rambla,
a scarlet venue whose principle pull is a top selection of
wines and a range of tapas snacks to go with them. Better
still, with summer in swing then sit streetside next to heavy
wood shutters and flower pots. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 04:00. AB
Lizard King C-1, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04
72, w w w.lizardking.pl. I t's not unlikel y you'll h ear
the li ve bands from the other side of the R ynek - this
is rock star heaven, where the cock tails have names
like D ylan an d Co cker, an d th e toil et is a c cess e d
by steppin g throu gh a cello. Vinyl discs and brass
instruments adorn the wall space, while lighting rigs
hang from the ceilings, read y to beam onto the cover
acts who play most evenings. Q Open 11:00 - 03:00.
PAEBXW
Lobby Bar G-4, Pl. Ander sa 3 (Ander sia Hotel),
JvM
tel. 061 667 80 00, w w w.andersiahotel.pl. Reli ve
th e glor y days of Hasselh off insid e Hotel An d ersia's
gli t z y groun d floor drinker y. Take to on e of th e swi vell y chairs tha t surroun d th e bla ck marbl e bar, or
else repair to th e whi te pou fs lurkin g in th e corn ers.
Fill e d wi th mirrore d strips an d n eon dash es this bar
wor ks surpri sin gl y well, fe elin g c osm op oli tan a s
oppose d to ou tda te d. Clubby tun es get pipe d from
in visibl e sp eakers, whil e a suprem el y p ers onabl e
bar ten d er fi xes c o ck tail s wi t h all t h e skill of an
al ch emist. Q Open 13:00 - 02:30, Sa t, Sun 17:00 00:30. PAUW
Londoner Pub C-1, Stary Rynek 90. Your lingering impression might well be the toilet; broken on our visit, and home
to an unforgettable sight we would have rather avoided. You
learn to expect the unexpected in Londoner, this is after all a
bar where a small hatchway opens into a tourist information
point, and decorations include an endless list of useless
junk; the further you penetrate the more surreal your journey
becomes, with gramophones, a model goat and other curios
taking up all viable space.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 02:00. J
Malibu Bar C-2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. 061 852 45
86, www.malibubar.pl. Shock white colour schemes
have punters reaching for their shades, and this place
is definitely aimed at the ‘sunglasses at night' crowd. It
takes about ten people to fill the dance floor, so don't be
surprised to find the local Playboy bunnies dancing around
the tables - sometimes on them. A couple of back rooms
come stuffed with bright orange ottomans, though the overriding impression is one of stark minimalism. But the really
good news here are the cocktails; the AK47 (comprised of
vodka, rum, gin, whisky, tequila and triple sec) could kill a
rhino. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 03:00. PAEW
Warm sounds,
soulful, funky, latino
Fridays and Saturdays
NEW
Mielzynski Wine Bar ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. 061 866
00 57, www.mielzynski.pl. Set in a scrubbed up industrial
brick building Mielżynski is the wine bar that Poznan has
been crying out for. It's not central, but it is worth the ride,
as a lengthy lurk among the crates soon proves. Educated
service, hard-to-find labels, a dash of neo factory chic and
a winning menu make this a true destination of distinction.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAX
Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www.
moodclub.pl. Poznań's principal shopping street doesn't
have much in the way of boozing options, so it's no surprise
to find Mood with a monopoly on the good times and late
nights. Set down a courtyard this place gets plenty of custom
during daylight, but it's come pumpkin hour that things kick
off in earnest - swing by at the weekend when DJs enter the
frame to pep up the crowd.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. PAEBW
Muchos Patatos D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 851 91
73, www.muchos.pl. Adobe coloured walls come decorated
with tile-shard mosaics and as evenings progress a lively
student crowd squeeze in to party like there's no manana
to a background of salsa and Latin rhythms, strong shots of
tequila encouraging never-before-attempted dance moves.
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
PA
Piano Bar C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar
Shopping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.pianobar.
poznan.pl. The per fect spot to take clients. A clean
cream interior punctuated by some well chosen local
art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your
party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to
walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle
any cocktail you should require. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEBXW
Made in Poland - Maluch
Like the Czech Skoda and the East German Trabant the Polish ‘Maluch’ has served several purposes during its lifetime;
a Godsend for families behind the iron curtain, source of
merriment for smirking foreigners and now, as a cult icon for
commie nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports have
won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously
delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels is
something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in factories in
Bielsko-Biała and Tychy the car was produced under the
Italian Fiat license, with its official title being the Polish
Fiat 126p. Its diminutive size saw it awarded the common
moniker of Maluch (little one), a name that was so widely
used that the manufacturers officially re-christened the
brand in 1997. When the first one rolled off the production
belt in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000 (approximately
three times the average annual wage), and became the first
popular family car in Poland. Throughout communist times
the car could only be purchased through joining a waiting
list, which at times ran to a couple of years, though diligent
workers would often be rewarded with special vouchers
allowing them to jump the queue.
By the time production came to a halt in 2000 over 3.2 million had seen action on the roads of Poland. The conveyor
belts may have ground to a halt but the car still boasts a
remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find many zipping
and weaving between traffic, usually driven by fearless
pizza delivery boys showing an alarming commitment to
delivering their goods in record time.
July - October 2009
59
60
NIGHTLIFE
Malta
In the words of esteemed local journalist and history
buff, Brian Dixon, ‘while both the Nazis and Stalin did
their damnedest to outdo each in terms of winning favour
with the denizens of Hell, they also excavated a series
of lakes around the city to prevent the River Warta from
flooding.’ Of the lot it’s Lake Malta that is best known,
and its surroundings are well worth further investigation.
Formed in 1952 as a result of the damning of the Cybina
river the 2.2 kilometre long lake is the largest man-made
lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres.
Built on the sweat of forced labour the lake is today one
of the principal recreation areas in the region with an
ice-rink, all-year ski slope (the first in former communist
Europe), zoo and rowing a few of the opportunities on
offer. Each Summer the Malta Festival (Poznań’s answer
to Scotland’s Edinburgh Festival) culminates on the banks
of the lake, usually in a shower of fireworks and music.
The name of the lake derives from the Knights of Malta,
and it was their order who once owned the land on which
the lake now sits. However it is modern history that
is most apparent when visiting Malta. Take a look, for
instance, at the Mound of Freedom on the south of the
lake, just off ul. Baraniaka. Work on this man made hillock
started on May 3, 1919, with workers from across Poland
volunteering to take part in its construction. It was built to
celebrate the success of the Wielkopolska Uprising and
took three years to complete. When Poznań was once
more incorporated into the Reich the Nazis couldn’t wait
to deconstruct this symbol of Polish victory and it was
promptly levelled. In 1982 plans were touted to rebuild
it from scratch, and construction swung into action four
years later. Amazingly, it’s still not finished. When it is
finally completed (don’t hold your breath) the 30 metre
peak will be 17 metres taller than the original, and will
also hold an observation point.
While the lake – host to many international rowing competitions – is the focal point, the surroundings aren’t short
on distractions. Throughout summer the car park near
the ski slope is home to an open air cinema, with films
screened for free from 10pm. Cheapskates take note,
admission is free. It’s also got Poznań’s only mini-golf
course, as well as a summer toboggan run. Hold on for
dear life as speeds hit 50km per hour on the 530 metre
run. It’s open from the start of the April to the end of
October from 12:00 – 21:00. Note that this is subject
to weather and you should check first with the reception
(061 878 22 12). You’ll be shelling out 7-9zł for the pleasure, and more details are available from www.maltaski.
pl. Finally, there’s the Maltanka narrow gauge railway.
Connecting Rondo Sródka with the New Zoo the 3.8km
line ferries approximately 200,000 passengers annually
on its 600mm tracks. Tickets cost 4.5/3zł.
NIGHTLIFE
Piwnica 21 (The Cellar 21) D-2, ul. Wielka 21, tel.
061 852 29 26, www.piwnica21.pl. A vast underground
bar that is nothing more than your archetypal student beer
hall. You'll occasionally hear jazz performances above
the din, and Piwnica 21 features all the expected extras:
sticky floors, bare bones basic furniture, and some flashing arcade machines. Always a fun night, though don't
go making plans for a bright start the following morning.
QOpen 17:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00
- 24:00. JEW
Pod Minogą B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061
852 79 22. Formerly Poznan's premier bar noir, what was
once a dog-eared local legend has since been gentrified
and refurbished. The dishevelled decor of yesteryear has
disappeared, replaced instead by a brick bar, naked girders and floorboards that no longer squeak. To their credit
the clientele stubbornly persist in honouring the artistic
legacy, with charity shop fashions and roll-up cigarettes
glued to their fingers. The music policy is as alternative
as ever, but one can't help but think the glory years have
passed.QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 09:00, Sun
17:00 - 05:00. AE
Post Dali B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. 061 855 21 03,
www.postdali.pl. Open till late, very late, Post Dali is the
final word in Poznań by night, and frequently the undoing of
those who visit; our notes are little more than scribbles, a
suggestion that a belting good time was had. There's a few
points to set it aside from the competition, the first being it's
sky high location - find it occupying a chunk of the tenth and
eleventh floors of a Poznań office block, with views that stretch
across the city. Typical clubby sounds keep the party going
till memory fades, with a committed crowd lapping up the
shenanigans.QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon. PEXW
PRL D-1, ul. Żydowska 11(entrance from ul.Mokra), tel.
061 852 31 62. Poznań now has two bars celebrating the
days of communism, and this one is every inch as good as
the near legendary Proletaryat - in fact, if anything we prefer
this place. Occupying a pair of murky basement rooms PRL
features a feast of memorabilia saved from the Peoples
Republic, with visionary diversions including hammers and
sickles, paintings of Marx and a riot shield to evoke those
fun nights spent battling the militia. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. X
Proletaryat D-2, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. 061 852 48
58/0 508 17 36 08, www.proletaryat.pl. Who cares
that Stalin was umpteen times the villain that Hitler ever
was, this commie-themed bar is an essential stop-off for
any pub crawler. Socialist paradise this most certainly is,
with portraits of Soviet leaders aplenty, and an even a bust
of Lenin peering from the window. Drink quality local brews
while Russkie marching bands strike up from the speakers,
and peruse the manifestos and cold war keepsakes lined up
along the walls.QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00.
PJAXW
Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9
(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.
sheraton.pl/poznan. Qube is the lobby bar of the Sheraton,
and the perfect primer for pre-restaurant cocktails or while
counting down the minutes before Someplace Else opens.
The staff are top drawer, proved by the creation of the best
mojito we've found in town, while the low bar side seats refuse to let you leave until you've tried one too many of their
lethal vodkas. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.
PAUXW
Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32
24, www.room55.pl. On the ground floor find a decent
bar where the business world meet for after work drinks, as
well as an overpriced menu presented by scurrying blondes.
Head downstairs to see where the crowd moves when it
gets to the business end of the night. Find a long cellar bar
with wooden barrels to park yourself on, and enough space
to impress with your dance trickery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW
Sami Swoi C-2, Stary Rynek 99/100, tel. 061 855 21 65,
www.samiswoi-klub.com. From the outside Sami Swoi appears
to be a traditional restaurant, filled with stripey wallpaper, oil paintings and other prim touches. And while you can eat here this place
packs out primarily with a young, noisy crowd looking to drink into
the next day. Don't be startled to hear the local karaoke kings
doing their party pieces. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PJAW
Sarp D-2, Stary Rynek 56, tel. 061 853 24 64, www.
sarp-klub.pl. Entering Sarp is like walking into a migraine.
Everything here is orange, plastic and flimsy, and the staff
don't do much to inspire repeat visits - asking what goes into
a White Russian is bad enough, using UVH milk to then make
it an error of schoolboy proportions. On the plus side they
open late and serve beer, and there's a cycle of exhibitions
and concerts to keep things lively.QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AEB
Shark C-1, Stary Rynek 48, tel. 061 851 94 80, www.
shark.ecom.net.pl. A chic designer space with a sparkling
bar that wondrously seems to spread from floor to ceiling.
Find sexy bedroom music, stick thin girls and salmon walls
inside this smashig split level venue. Beauty police work the
door, so dress accordingly. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00. JAB
SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/
poznan. The quintessential expat bar and a lifeline to your
parallel life abroad. The layout here is simple, diner décor
featuring all the Route 66 extras and rock'n'roll pics. Setting it
aside are Sky Sports, Poznań's best burger and a line up of live
music acts that lead the party to its inevitably blurry conclusion.
Blame your amnesia on the bar staff, some of the best in the
business, and while SPE is not a cheap night a trip here is just
the medicine if you've had one of those days where you're
tempted to book the next ticket out of Poland. QOpen 17:00
- 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. Closed from July 20 - August 20 PAUEXW
STUDENTS RULE IN
SOMEPLACE ELSE
ON THURSDAYS
www.someplace-else.pl
50% discount upon showing
student license on Thursday
Look for this stamp
on the SomePlace Else menu
The Dubliner A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance
from Al. Niepodległości), tel. 061 851 01 69, www.
dubliner.com.pl. Possibly the largest pub in town, certainly
the emptiest. Accommodated inside the basement of the
Zamek building The Dubliner features stained glass windows,
a model train circling above the bar and wall specially painted
to feign years of tobacco smoke. This is a clinical attempt
to bring Ireland to Poland, and one that fails to capture the
intimacy and buzz of their rival Celt pub, Brogan's.QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAUEB
The Fire Place Lounge E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.
pl/poznan. A tiny side room of the Sheraton houses this gem,
where curvy seating is complimented by violet dashes, mirrors
and dark polished woods. It's completely luxurious, and the
presence of a roaring fireplace makes it highly tempting to
open a book and forget any looming appointments. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
PAUXSW
SomePlace Else
Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznan, Tel. 061 655 2000
[email protected]
Open daily from 5pm, on Sundays from 12:00
(enter through the main door of Sheraton)
July - October 2009
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NIGHTLIFE
U Honzika B-3, ul. Taczaka 21, tel. 0 504 03 72 19,
NIGHTLIFE
Cute H-3, ul. Wielka 27/29, tel. 061 851 91 37, www.
www.honzik.pl. If you're going to drink in the student ghetto
then do so in here. What looks like a seedy basement bar
is actually one of the finest places in the world - a cracking
Czech pub with smoke stained walls and plenty of football
paraphernalia. There's Zlatopramen lager on tap, though real
drinkers are going to look in the fridge - filled to bursting with
hard-to-find brews hailing from Lithuania and Ukraine. Either
stand shoulder to shoulder with the students at the bar, or
penetrate the back room to sit on rough-cut wooden stools.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PX
cute.poznan.pl. Found inside the guts of an old town cellar
Cute plays the best nu-house sounds in Poznań, which to
the rank and prole translates as dance tracks that are way
too cool to chart. Watch the hourglass figures take to the
dance floor while reclining from the safety of the red leather
ottomans and sofas. Strange shapes and sounds aplenty,
adding to the feeling that the pills are about to hit. QOpen
20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PJAE
Whisky Bar C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel.
55, www.czarnaowca.com.pl. A local institution. Upstairs
is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine
club. Music is usually no more challenging than chart hits,
though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ's, and the
crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobhole.
QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PJAUX
061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A subterranean
tunnel shaped bar, boasting what is apparently the largest
collection of whisky in the country. Found inside the guts of the
Dom Vikingów complex Whisky Bar comes replete with polished
wooden fittings, and staff who can confidently talk you through
the enormous choice of drinks. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Thu
21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PABXW
W Starym Kinie (In The Old Cinema) B-1, ul. Nowow-
iejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 22 41, www.wstarymkinie.pl.
Out front pub poets and film buffs sit within plum coloured
walls, eyeing decorations that include film reels, projectors
and cinema seats. Any overspill gets lumped in the powder
blue back room, where only a few token posters cheer up
a rather lonely looking space. Regular screenings of cult
classics attract a crowd of budding film critics. QOpen
10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00,
Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AEW
Za Kulisami (Behind the Scenes) D-2, ul. Wodna
24, tel. 061 853 23 97. Embedded in local folklore, Za
Kulisami is a drinking institution. The scraps of faded paper
behind the bar are travelers notes from the days before
Skype - remember them - and the shelves groan under the
weight of broken-spined books and Paddington Bear style
suitcases. Inside the gloom and plumes of smoke a crowd
of all extractions congregate to drink amid cow skins and
empty birdcages. This is drinking the way the gods would
have wanted. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00,
Sun 18:00 - 01:00. J
Clubs
Bee D-2, ul. Wielka 18, tel. 0 507 06 80 84, www.
beeclub.pl. A great looking bar which morphs into a club
the moment the calendar flicks to Friday. Honey colours and
rounded circular shapes lend a mildly retro tone, and the
seats are among the most comfortable in town; enjoy them
while you can, it's odds on they'll be scarred with lager stains
and cigarette burns by the time the year is out. House, funk
and lounge sounds fit into the background, while an over 21
door policy does the job of freezing the riff raff out. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAW
Cuba Libre C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. 061 852 31
57, www.cuba-libre.pl. Set down a shadowy courtyard
basement the newly expanded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin
venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che and wall
space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This
place goes for detail, so much so drinkers can even take a seat
in one of those clapped out vintage bangers you see pootling
round the streets of Havana. The disco Latino nights on Friday
and Saturday prove seriously popular, though if you've got two
left feet then consider brushing up on your dance jiggles at
one of their salsa and samba classes held earlier in the week.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00,
Sat 20:00 - 06:00. PX
Czarna Owca C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. 0 502 28 77
Czekolada C-2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. 061 851
00 05, www.klubczekolada.pl. Credit crunch you say?
Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are
living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this
place sexy would be a disser vice, this is the final word
in design drinking and the sor t of cocktail spot/lounge
club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces
and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot,
and you'd be a fool to turn up looking like any thing less
than a celebrity. Q Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAX
Emforiu D-1, ul. Kramarska 18, tel. 060 179 45 58,
www.emforiu.pl. Although it helps to have pneumatic
breasts and an expensive wardrobe Poznań's latest headline
grabber is open to all; from local big shots to students pooling
their coins together for a lager. A glowing dance floor pulsates
with rainbow lights while local DJs serve up a feast of house
noise to the mass of wriggling bodies. It's a clever set up
here, with plenty of red vinyl, stark hospital white colours
and revolving disco balls creating a great backdrop for the
weekend excess that awaits. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PW
IQ C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 851 06 22, www.
iqclub.pl. A grubby, tunnel-like cellar club that grabs the
attention with a poster outside advertising two zloty beer.
Equipped with a reddish glow and a smoky mist this place
wakes up each weekend, when some of the biggest names in
Poland show up to play electro, trance and oldskool hardcore.
Don't bother dressing up, hooded tops are worn like signs
of courage.QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. JE
Klub Charyzma D-2, ul. Ślusarska 6, tel. 061 851 79
48, www.charyzma.poznan.pl. It's all a bit Planet of the
Apes in Charyzma, a big, brash venue where local lads head
to see whose nuts dangle lowest as they bid to impress
the local talent. The design is concrete and steel - with
the occasional mannequin sticking out of an air vent - and
the music is limited to commercial dance tracks. QOpen
19:00 - 03:00, Wed 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PAEW
Metropolitan Club B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. 061 851 51
51, www.metropolitanclub.pl. Give your latest dance waggles
their debut in Metropolitan, a dazzling club space with lots of
violet vanilla dashes, swooping beams of light and razor clawed
platinum pussycats on display. The management have gone for
the scattergun approach, with different days bringing in different
sounds - check their interweb for details.QOpen 18:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEXW
Sansibar D-2, ul. Wodna 12, tel. 0 694 41 30 72, www.
sansibar.pl. Another student drinking dungeon in which patrons shout, scream and gesticulate over the din of disco hits
of yesteryear. Dark, cramped and noisy the overall effect isn't
unlike sitting in a cupboard with the Village People.QOpen
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJAE
SQ C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. 061 859 65 78, www.
sqklub.pl. Poznan's most famous club, and packed with
enough pin-up girls to have your head spinning like a periscope.
An expensive wardrobe and silly haircut are essential, and while
the design is nothing special the nights here most certainly are.
DJs arrive from across Poland to play here, sometimes even
further, and it's certainly the premier place in town to puff the
chest out and strut about like a big time Bertie. Find it in the
basement of the Stary Browar shopping centre.QOpen 22:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAE
Tapas D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www.
tapas.pl. A design masterstroke, the hi-tech interior is quite
unlike anything Poznań has seen before. Full of glass flooring,
shimmery baubles and mosaic surfaces the Tapas Club is a
futuristic space, and decorated with suggestive scarlet and
granite black colours. Also, a roped off VIP section as well as
staff capable of creating the right cocktails for the right moment. House music every Friday, and tracks from the 60s, 70s
and 80s on Saturday's, though take note they'll be closing for
renovation and reopening at some point in September.QOpen
21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PJA
ê~ê¢¡
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¾
Terytorium D-1, ul. Mokra 7, tel. 061 853 02 92, www.
klubterytorium.pl. Come weekends the cobbled flooring and
vast bar area become the fiefdom of off-duty students, and
the toilets the territory of sozzled lads discussing the merits
of the girls outside. Tremendously popular, with most custom
coming from a young crowd that likes to tank back the booze.
QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAX
Tokyo Underground C-2, ul. Wrocławska 23, tel. 0 601
70 22 40, www.tokyo-underground.pl. To call the design
minimal would be an understatement. There's a couple of
signs from the Tokyo Underground and that's about it; the
rest of this place is London grey with a few exposed pipes
and brick walls on show. Fortunately the music is cracking,
with great electro sets played to a committed crowd of local
hedonists. Sod the design, this looks set to become one of
the liveliest nights in the calendar. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. PAEW
Wine
Red Eric Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów),
tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. The first
western standard restobar in Poznań, and still a firm fixture
on any nocturnal radar. The design is sharp and modern,
the menu comprehensive and the bar populated by a ties
off after work crowd. Dom Vikingów, Red Erik, call it what you
will, the fact remains this venue continues to set standards
that others struggle to follow. And now, outback, there’s
over 10,000 bottles of wine to drink through. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00. ABW
July - October 2009
63
64
HISTORY
The Wielkopolska Uprising
Since the Third Partition of 1795 Poland had effectively
ceased to be a country, wiped off the map and carved
between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria.
Poznań enjoyed brief freedom in 1806, when Napoleon’s
conquering troops marched eastwards, liberating much of
Poland and placing the city under the independent jurisdiction of the Duchy of Warsaw. But Napoleon’s military
disaster on the plains of Russia was to prove just years
away, resulting in the 1815 Congress of Vienna which saw
Poznań once more delivered back into Prussian hands.
There it was to remain for over a century. With Europe
reeling after years of war, Germany in collapse and Russia
plunged into revolutionary chaos patriotic fervour once
more simmered to the surface. The people of Poznań,
overwhelmingly Polish, could sense independence was
round the corner, but there remained one crucial sticking
point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent
Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and while Warsaw
was back in the hands of a Polish government Poznań was
still answerable to Berlin.
Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918,
the native Poznonian’s had been plotting an uprising.
Positions in local government and industry were forcibly
seized by Poles and the countdown was on for outright
war. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on
December 27. Historical accounts of how the Uprising
started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting of
Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on the steps
of the police headquarters that started the initial fighting,
though most point to a stirring speech given by the pianist
and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what
was then the Bazar Hotel. While addressing the Polish
crowd assembled below a German counter-demonstration
passed by – within moments shots had been fired and
the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side
started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning
back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured the
train station and post office, while elsewhere in the region
other towns rose up in rebellion.
Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak the
Polish forces followed up with numerous swift successes
against a German army shattered from four years of world
war. Neighbouring towns like Kórnik, and Mogilno were
liberated though several counter attacks suggested a
stiffening in German resolve. Fighting continued into the
New Year and by January the situation was out of hand. To
save the region from a descent into anarchy the government in waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civil
and military issues, conscripting all men born between
1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths
of allegiance in what is today (B-2) pl. Wolnośći, the Polish
troops continued to march into increasingly fierce battles
with their German counterparts.
Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no
small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw
the beginning of international peace talks, and within two
days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans
to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this
time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting continued for the next few days, but to all intents
and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were
liberated.
HISTORY
Some highlights of Poznań’s millennium-long journey from
Dark Ages settlement to 21st-century city commercial
awakening.
10th century
In 968 the first Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992
Mieszko I, the first ruler of Poland, is buried in Poznań
Cathedral.
12th century
Poznań begins to develop. At the end of the century, members
of the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’ Church and
found the earliest hospital in Poznań.
13th century
In 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestows
Magdeburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular street
system is laid out around a central marketplace and a castle
is added to the fortifications.
14th century
Poznań goes through its greatest period of expansion and
is soon a major centre of European trade.
16th century
A golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a fire
devastates the Jewish quarter, the Market Place, the Town
Hall and the Castle.
17th century
Prosperity falls after the devastatingly expensive Swedish
Wars of 1655-1657 and a series of fires and floods. Swedes
occupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656.
18th century
Poznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russian
and Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plague
largely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 a
hurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and the
Cathedral. And in 1736, the worst flood in the town’s history
wipes out almost a third of the town’s houses.
19th century
Napoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806.
As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold,
the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and form
their own cultural and economic organisations.
1978
Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the name
John Paul II.
1980
The fledgeling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard
electrician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike.
1981
December 13 - The Prime Minister, General Wojciech
Jaruzelski, declares martial law.
1983
Pope John Paul II makes his first visit to Poznań. Martial law
is lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize.
1985-88
Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustration
grows.
1989
Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees to meet
21 demands for improved living and working conditions.
Partly free elections are held. When Solidarność sweeps the
elections the communist regime collapses. Nonetheless, the
parliament elects General Jaruzelski president.
August - The first post-communist prime minister, Tadeusz
Mazowiecki, forms a coalition government.
1990
January 1 - Price and monetary restrictions are abandoned
in an attempt to find a natural economic equilibrium. Inflation
leaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. December 9 - Lech
Wałęsa becomes the first popularly elected president of
post-communist Poland.
1995
November 19 - Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewski
defeats Lech Wałęsa in presidential elections.
2001
September 23 - Populist parties enjoy unprecedented
success in parliamentary elections and Solidarność, a major
force in 1989, disappears from the political scene.
2004
Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparking
a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortune.
2005
April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul
II passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a
million Poles.
20th century
The Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts in
Poznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919,
Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and the
administrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian rule.
From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped out,
much of the town’s population is killed or displaced and about
half of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On January 23,
1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000 mobilised
locals, they drive out the Germans after a month. The Warsaw
Pact is created in 1955.
1956
June 28 - 120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread,
truth and freedom”, and 76 are killed in street fighting with
the army. A political thaw begins that year under Władysław
Gomułka.
1970
Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protest
poor living standards and rising prices. The police and army
intevene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out of
government.
1956 Uprising
June 2006 marked the 50th anniversary of The
Poznań Riots, the first recognized strike and street
demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally
suppressed this show of people’s strength remains an
intense source of pride for the local community, and
though it would be another 33 years until the people of
Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin
the uprising led to a significant liberalization of Soviet
policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980
Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of
the Solidarity movement.
The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain
degree of optimism among Poles and promised an
end to the social and political terror associated with
the Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern
Europe. But these hopes were to prove shortlived and
Nikita Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention
of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of
strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of the
dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent
the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June
28 strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories – originally in
the Stalin brick factory (now the Hipolita Cegielskiego
Factory), before spreading to the city’s other major
industrial plants. An estimated 100,000 workers
descended on the Municipal National Council (now
the Zamek building), chanting slogans like ‘Bread and
Freedom’ and ‘Out with Bolshevism’, while demanding
lower prices, higher wages and a reduction in work
quotas.
Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when
it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf
of the strikers up in Warsaw had been arrested and
detained by the authorities. Infuriated by this break in
protocol the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison,
liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing
armaments. Armed with 188 assorted small arms
and petrol bombs the insurgents marched back to the
city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile
atmosphere threatening to run out of control the
communist authorities reacted in their traditional manner
– by over-reacting.
Under the command of Stanisław Popławski 10,300
soldiers were deployed to Poznań, as well as 400 tanks
and 30 armoured personnel carriers. Fierce street
battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside
world, order was eventually restored on June 30. The
clashes left 76 civilians (unofficial estimates claim the
number to be vastly higher) and eight soldiers dead,
and over 600 strikers injured. Victims included Roman
Strzałkowski, a thirteen year old boy shot through the
heart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of the
riots helped spark off an equally heroic anti-communist
uprising in Budapest.
Although Poland was to suffer another three decades
of Communist control the riots had a huge influence in
the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist
Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several
Stalinst hardliners found themselves dismissed in a
bid to appease the people. Władysław Gomułka was
appointed First Secretary and limited social reforms
and a small-scale lifting of press censorship followed.
A new museum commemorating the events of 1956 has
been opened in the Zamek on ul. Sw. Marcin (see What to
see). It is definitely worth taking a while to visit to really
understand the momentous events of the Poznan June.
AP
July - October 2009
65
66
ESSENTIAL POZNAŃ
WHAT TO SEE
Art fans should head to the National Museum (C-2, al.
Marcinkowskiego 9), an excellent museum with a rich
collection of modern Polish art (including interesting
impressionistic works) in the new wing, and medieval art,
impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the
connected old building. Also, don’t miss a visit to the Poznań
Model (C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2), a huge model that shows
Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s picture
sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the
model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of
1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and it’s more
than just a great way to get out of the rain.
Poznan Old Twon
© shaggyshoo
Part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the
streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to
the next. That said there are a number of must-see sights
whose discovery should not be left to chance. Your natural
start point should be the main square, the glorious Rynek.
Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (C-2, Stary Rynek
1), once renowned as the most beautiful building north
of the Alps. Today it is home to the Historical Museum of
Poznań, as well as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge
at noon to the delight of the sightseers gathered below.
© Radomil
To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case of
river blindness. They’re everywhere, no more so than on
Ostrów Tumski. The island is dominated by the Cathedral
(Ostrów Tumski 17) with its twin towers and surrounding
chapels. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, where
you can see sections of excavated walls that date back to
the founding of Poland. Trek back to the old town though to
find Poznań’s most impressive church: that of St Stanislaus
(C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1). Created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th
century it boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of
Roman Baroque artists as well as a beautiful pink exterior.
Military Weapon Museum
© Maciej Boruń
Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała)
H-4, ul. Strzelecka 40, tel. 061 852 32 00, www.
bozecialo.poznan.pl. A strange legend attaches to the
church, involving the theft and unsavoury use of three
three communion wafers. The unfortunate wafers were
later found on the common, and King Władysław Jagiełło
had the Gothic Church of Corpus Christi erected on the
spot. Construction ended in 1470 and renovations were
added during the Baroque period. The Gothic elevations
and Baroque gable and tower are preserved in their original
state. Points of interest include paintings of King Jagiełło
and Queen Hedwig from 1685, the high altar designed by
Pompeo Ferrari, and the Baroque Chapel of the Virgin Mary.
To this day, Corpus Christi processions are remarkably
colourful and impressive, with the local houses brightly
decorated and women and girls wearing Bamberg costumes. Q Open during mass only.
Al. Niepodległości 20, tel. 061 852 31 34, www.
poznan.dominikanie.pl. Built in the 13th century, this
church was later given a Baroque interior, tower and
gables. The stalls feature sculpted mannerist scenes
from the legends of Saints Dominic and Hyacinth. The
Late Gothic Rosary Chapel dates to the early 16th century
and features a stellar vault and neo-Gothic furnishings.
In the small courtyard outside the presby tery you’ll find
the entrance to the Jesuit Gallery, where you can see the
mannerist interiors of the library, cloister and Chapel of
St. Hyacinth. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during
mass please.
Franciscan Church (Kościół Franciszkanów)
C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. 061 852 36 37, www.
ofmconv.opoka.org.pl/poznan. Erected 1674-1728.
Hidden behind the bland exterior is a riot of baroque
decoration, with car ved wood, stucco and paintings by
local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed
the high altar and ornamented stalls. Lavish decorations aside, visitors flock to the church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the
Miracle-Working Virgin Mar y, also known as the Lady of
Poznań, for 300 years. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Of course there’s more to the Rynek than just the town hall,
and visitors should make time to troll round the other museums
that line the perimeter of the square including the Literary
Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (D-2, Stary Rynek 84), which
honours one of Poland’s best known authors, the Musical
Instruments Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47), the Military
Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 9), stocked with a collection of
weaponry, and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (C-2, Stary
Rynek 3) which chronicles the 1918 Uprising which culminated
in Poznań switching from German to Polish hands.
Other noteworthy museums in the vicinity include the
excellent Archaeological Museum on Wodna 27. Exhibits
here include Egyptian mummies and obelisks, as well as bits
and pieces from prehistoric Poland. Definitely the wackiest
museum in town, and compulsory viewing for anyone with
aspirations to follow in the footsteps of Indiana Jones.
Churches
Dominican Church (Kościół Dominikański) A-1,
St. Stanisiaus
Ethnographic Museum
Poznan's thousand-year history as a trading centre
has left it with no shortage of churches, museums and
oddities. Most are within walking distance of each other
around the town centre.
Citadel Cementary
© Wojciech Zmyślony
Poznań was also affected deeply by the war, and a visit to the
former Gestapo penal camp (Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum,
Al. Polska) is a disturbing daytrip. Hardly more uplifting is the
Poznań Army Museum (G-1, Poznań Citadel), which aside from
boasting displays of modern military hardware documents
the defence of Poznań in 1939. It’s close to here you’ll find
Soviet, Polish and Commonwealth Military Cemeteries – Brit
visitors should note it’s here that Roger Bushell, leader of
‘The Great Escape’, is buried. Equally saddening are the
few remaining traces of Poznań’s former Jewish community.
Poznań wasn’t much more fortunate when the war ended,
and to hear the story behind its struggle with communism
visit the June 1956 Uprising Museum, a moving exhibition set
inside a castle formerly used by Kaiser Wilhelm II.
Ostrów Tumski
This island is where the city originated and ‘where Poland
began’ according to Pope John Paul II. Legend has it that
three Slav brothers called Lech, Czech and Rus met at
this island having not seen each other for years. The city
was named to commemorate their reunion, poznać being
Polish for ‘to meet’. A castle was built on the island in the
9th century, and by the 10th century it had become a
major centre of the Piast state. This is the spot where
Poland adopted Catholic baptism and where the first
bishopric was established in 968. Mieszko I and Bolesław
Chrobry, the founders of the Polish state, are buried in the
cathedral. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications
are still visible on the Cybina riverside.
Cathedral I-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. 061 852 96
42, www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl. Poland’s first
bishopric was established in Poznań in 968AD, and from
1138-1295 Poznań briefly operated as the home of Poland’s Royal Court. The oldest point of interest is Ostrów
Tumski, and though nothing remains of the 9th century
fortress that once stood here the cathedral, Poland’s first,
is open to visitors. The cathedral has had a tough time,
destroyed and remodeled numerous times, though the
crypt has survived the vicissitudes of time and contains
the bodies of Poland’s first rulers - Mieszko I and Bolesław
Chrobry. A Romanesque cathedral was built on the spot
in the 12th century and a Gothic structure went up in
1356-1410; in 1772 it received Late Baroque additions
and classicist façade. Burnt down in 1945, it was reconstructed in 1946-1955 in the Gothic style. The oldest
remains are in the cathedral crypt, where you can see
sections of excavated walls that date back to the founding
of Poland. St. Stanislaus’ Chapel features an epitaph by
sculptor Marian Konieczny; each November 1 a special
mass in the chapel celebrates the souls of the kings and
princes buried here. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament
houses several outstanding examples of Renaissance
sculpture, including the multilevel tomb of the Gorka family.
St. Martin’s Chapel houses a painting by Poznań artist
Krzysztof Boguszewski of the saint entering Amiens.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
Parish Church of St. Stanislaus (Kościół Farny
Św. Stanisława Biskupa) C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1,
tel. 061 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.org.pl.
One of Poznań's most impressive historic monuments,
the Parish Church of St. Stanislaus was created as a
Jesuit temple in the 17th centur y. It boasts an interior
by a veritable who's who of Roman Baroque ar tists. The
striking interior is 55 metres long, 35 metres wide and
27 metres high, with huge columns providing dramatic
light-and-shade effects. Fine specimens of Baroque
ornamentation can be found in the chapels of the Holy
Cross, which features a 16th-centur y crucifix, and the
Virgin Mar y, which has a precious copy of the painting of
The Mother of God of Incessant Help. The church hosts
organ concer ts played on an instrument dating from
1876 each day (Sunday being the exception) at 12.15 in
July and August and on Saturdays only at 12.15 in other
months. Q Open 06:00 - 19:30. No visiting during mass.
July - October 2009
67
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WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół Św. Wojciecha)
Bazar Hotel
So what of the hotel at the
centre of the Wielkopolska
Uprising (see p64). Built
on the initiative of Karol
Marcinkowski, the Bazar
(C-2, al. Marcinkowskiego
1 0) w a s c o n s t r u c t e d
between 1838 and 1841
to the designs of Ernst
S te u d e n e r. Th e m u l ti purpose institution housed
a hotel, shopping centre,
concert hall and casino and
by all accounts became a
centre of Polish social, political and cultural life during the
years of Prussian rule. It’s Paderewski’s December visit
that it’s best known for today, and a plaque on the corner
commemorates his fleeting but eventful stay. Throughout
the Uprising the Bazar served as official HQ for the
rebels and its colourful history prompted Professor A.
M Skałkowski to write a book celebrating its centenary.
Nazi occupation marked an end to its glory days and it
suffered horrendous damage during the 1945 siege.
Renovations began immediately after liberation and the
building became the property of the Orbis group in 1950
who operated a hotel from there until 1990 when it was
returned to its pre-war stockholders. No hotel exists
here anymore though the building has since enjoyed a
remarkable renaissance with its shopping arcades filled
with designer stores.
Stary Marych
The bronze statue of a man with a bicycle that you may
find yourself colliding into is that of Stary Marych, one
of Poznań’s best loved exports. Found on the corner of
(C-3) ul. Półwiejska and Strzelcka the figure is based on
a fictional character who came to symbolize the typical
Poznonian. Regarded as one of Poznań’s most famous
natives this grumpy but decent man was the creation of
Juliusz Kubel and featured heavily in the writers columns,
all the time speaking a particular brand of local Poznań
dialect. The statue was the work of Robert Sobociński
and it hit the headlines in 2005 when one local master
thief made off with the old mans left pedal. The missing
article was finally replaced in 2006, thereby restoring
the statue to its full glory.
A. Pagińska
G-3, ul. Św. Wojciecha 11, tel. 061 852 69 85. This small,
uniquely-shaped Gothic building was constructed in the early
15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry
and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic
relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other
altars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923
it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska,
the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of
the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing General
Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also contains the
sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and
social activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see the
nativity scene with its mechanical figures of Polish kings,
scholars, artists and other national heroes. Q Open by
prior arrangement.
St. Francis of Assissi Church (Kościół Św. Franciszka z Asyżu) D-3, ul. Garbary 22, tel. 061 851 26
Museums
Applied Ar ts Museum (Muzeum Sz tuk
Użytkowych) C-1, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. 061 852
20 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Housed in what was formerly the
Royal Castle of Poznań the route consists of three floors, the
cellars being dedicated to temporary exhibits. Permanent
exhibits include craftwork dating to medieval times, as well
as clothing, furniture, glass and clocks, with an emphasis on
decorations formerly housed in castles, palaces and other
moneybag domains. While most hail from European shores,
a few of the displays are as from as far as Japan. Of note are
a lion-shaped vessel to wash princely hands that dates from
18th century Saxony, as well as glass decanter produced in
1813 picturing a pre-Bomber Harris Dresden. QOpen 11:00
- 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Y
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)
00, www.franciszkanie.net. This church was built in the late
17th century on a spot chosen according to the principles of
Baroque town planning. Its two-towered façade, designed
by Jan Adam Stier and decorated with figures of saints, was
added in the early 18th century. The original furnishings and
decorations were destroyed in the war and replaced with
replicas. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00.
I-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. 061 852 61 95, www.
muzeum.poznan.pl. Arts and crafts, paintings, sculptures
and antiques. The oldest exhibits date from the 12th century.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 6/4zł.
St. John of Jerusalem Church (Kościół Św. Jana
Jerozolimskiego) J-3, ul. Świetojańska 1, tel. 061 877
D-2, ul. Wodna 27, (Pałac
Górków), tel. 061 852 82
51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl.
Ever wanted to see the Egyptian
mummy of a woman called Hat?
Then step right in. Poznań's
Archaelogy Museum contains
a collection of 42,000 rare and
mystifying objects that chart life
in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric
Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliRadomil est settlements in the region,
with life-sized figures as well as
miniature-sized dioramas depicting life from the Older Stone Age
to the Iron Age. It's here you'll find everything from flints and urns
to models of hairy men holding aloft dead rabbits. The other
permanent exhibit, Death and Life in Ancient Egypt, features
120 rare pieces - of note are the granite obelisk of Rameses II
that stands in the courtyard outside, and the granite statue of
the lion-headed god Sachmet. The section on death presents
colourful coffins, guides to the afterlife titled ‘Book of what is
on the other side' and the mummified remains of Hat, a boy
called Padiseb and sacred animals including two cats, a falcon
and a crocodile. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Guided
tours by prior arrangement 25zł. Audio guides avaliable in English
for 12zł per person. Y
17 17. The oldest standing church in Poznań and the city's
second-oldest building after the Cathedral. It was built for
the Knights of Malta at the turn of the 12th century in the
Romanesque style, with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic
arrangement. After a fire in 1512 a star-vaulted ceiling was
built over the nave and a nave and tower were added to the
north side. Age aside, the building's main draw is a rare Late
Gothic painted triptych from the early 16th century. Q Open
07:00-08:00, 17:30-19:00.
St. Joseph’s Church (Kościół Św. Józefa) G-2,
ul. Działowa 25 (St. Wojciech Hill), tel. 061 852 92
93, www.karmelici.info. Opposite St. Adalbert's Church
you'll find St. Joseph's, a Carmelite church whose late 17th
century design typifies the Wielkopolska Baroque style.
It houses the grave of Mikolaj Skrzetuski, who defended
the town of Zbaraż against the Tartars and Cossacks in
1649 and inspired the main character in Henryk Sienkiewicz's novel, With Fire and Sword. Q Open 07:15-13:00,
15:00-19:00.
St. Mar tin’s Chur ch
(Kościół Św. Marcina)
C-2/3, ul. Św. Marcin 13,
tel. 061 852 32 63, www.
marcinpoznan.hg.pl. First
mention of a church standing
on the site dates from 1252
though i t owes i ts current
Radomil Gothic look from the 16th
centur y. Although this was
Poznań's most damaged church in WWII its interior is still
a sight to behold. The wooden Gothic sculpture of the
Madonna in the nave dates back to 1510, and the Gothic
Silesian altar triptych is from 1498. Don't miss the grotto
that stands outside the church, built in 1911 after the vicar
Tadeusz Wierbiński was miraculously cured of blindness by
the healing waters of Lourdes. The grotto was built in thanks,
and features a garden gnome like figure kneeling in front of
Jesus. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. No visiting
during mass please.
Archeological Museum
(Muzeum Archeologiczne)
Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski (Pracownia
Józefa Ignacego Kraszewskiego) D-1, ul. Wroniecka
14, tel. 061 855 12 44. Original manuscripts, over 200
rare first-editions and assorted writing equipment that once
belonged to the author of Stara Baśń (Old Legend), a fanciful
account of Polish prehistory. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Envir onment Museum (Muzeum Wiedzy o
Środowisku) E-3, ul. Bukowska 19, tel. 061 847 56
01, www.zbsril.poznan.pl. Displays of stuffed and mounted
Polish animals with accounts of their living habits, and information on indigenous plants. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sat. Admission free.
Jewish Poznan
The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days
of the city though like so many other towns in Central and
Eastern Europe this heritage was all but extinguished with
the horrors that came with Hitler’s rise. The Nazi’s were
meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage and
today traces of it are few and far between. The early 19th
century cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyed by the
Nazis, the tombstones used to pave roads, and the area
found itself incorporated into the Trade Fair grounds after
the war. A special dispensation was granted to exhume
hundreds of bodies, and today you’ll find them buried in
the municipal cemetery in Miłostowo. However in recent
times steps have been taken to commemorate the existence of the former graveyard, and in November of last
year a memorial plaque was unveiled on ul. Głogowska
26a. Most recently, on June 3, 2008, a ceremony took
place to unveil an ohel marking the hitherto unmarked
grave of Rabbi Akiva Eiger, commonly accepted as being
Poznań’s greatest ever Rabbi. Previously used as a parking lot, the site of his grave has now been turned into a
grassy square, and has also been renamed to honour
his memory. The fate of the Jews who perished in the
stadium labour camp is commemorated by a memorial
which stands by the Multikino, and Poznań’s only functioning prayer house can be visited on ul. Stawna 10 (D-1).
The Synagogue
Amazingly, what was once the principal synagogue in town
can still be visited, albeit in a rather different capacity
than originally intended. Consecrated on September 5,
1907 the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka (D-1) was a
lavish structure designed by Berlin architects Cremer &
Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in
perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five
million). Holding 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women) it was financed by the Jewish superrich and included
a copper-plated dome and a floor plan based on the
Greek cross. Following the outbreak of WWII the building
was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into
a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht
soldiers. Although returned to the Jewish community
in 2002 it still functions as a municipal pool – leading
some wags to re-christen it the ‘swimagogue’. Of late
plans have been mooted to convert it into a community
centre complete with prayer halls, a kosher restaurant
and conference facilities. Delaying the development is the
problem of raising US$50 million, so for the time being at
least, bring your swimming togs if you fancy a look round.
July - October 2009
69
70
WHAT TO SEE
The Great Escape
Found some 150km southwest of Poznań, the town of
Zagan was the site of one of the most celebrated prison
breakouts of all time. Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywood
blockbuster, The Great Escape, the daring break from
the Nazi prisoner-of-war camp Stalag Luft III has since
been ingrained into English and Commonwealth culture.
Opened in 1942 outside the German town of Sagan (now
Polish Zagan), the camp was designed to hold thousands
of captured allied airmen, including the most persistent
escapees inside the Reich’s network of prisons. Undeterred by tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, led
by Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel out
of the complex before setting off independently for neutral
territory. Even though the chances of success were slim,
Bushell hoped that the very notion of 250 allied airmen
loose inside the Third Reich would be enough to create
an internal security headache, hence diverting important
Nazi military resources.
Displaying a meticulous attention to detail, Bushell and
his cabal ensured escapees were provided with civilian
clothes, forged papers, currency and maps. Around 200
tonnes of sand and earth were excavated, then carefully
deposited in the exercise yards by POWs with long bags
hidden inside their trouser legs, or inside the two other
storage tunnels.
The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, but
unexpected air-raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76
men to make it through before camp guards uncovered
the escape.
Those who did make it through set off on foot or by rail,
though poor directions and pitch darkness meant many
escapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the station
until daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. In
total only two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it to
safety. Of the rest of the escapees, 50 were executed, 17
were returned to Sagan, four were sent to Sachenhausen
and two were delivered to Colditz.
In Poznań
Following cremation, the ashes of the executed men were
buried in the local cemetery - these were later moved to
the Old Garrison Cemetery in Poznan. To visit the graves
enter the cemetery at al. Niepodległości (G-2); turn right
and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most
of the murdered. A particular name to look for is that of
Roger Bushell, played by Richard Attenborough, the driving force behind the escape.
Prisoner of War Camps Museum (Muzeum
Obozów Jenieckich) ul. Lotników Alianckich 6(Za-
gan), tel. 068 478 49 94, www.muzeum.zagan.pl.
For many years there was nothing to see in Zagan. Now
thanks to the work of diehard historians and RAF personnel, hut 104, the barracks from where the escape was
hatched, has been recreated. It forms part of the Museum
to Prisoners of War, and we’ll have a full review next issue.
In the meantime you can make the trip in a (long) day from
Poznan, leaving by bus to Zielona Gora at 06:35 and then
taking the train from Zielona Gora to Zagan at 09:45 which
gets you there at 11:15. From Zagan bus station it is one
stop (Gozdnica) to the camp. A return journey, also taking
5 hours means leaving Zagan at either 15:55 or 18:00.
Check www.pkp.pl for more info. Check out www.willapark.
pl if you are looking for somewhere close to spend the night.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 3/1zł, Guided tours for up to 20 people
30zł. Guided tours in English should be booked in advance.
WHAT TO SEE
Historical Museum of Poznań (Muzeum Historii
Miasta Poznania) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 852 56
13, www.mnp.art.pl. The show-stealing Town Hall proves a
fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars
- originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to
the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the
ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits
covering the city's urban and economic development during
that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on
the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artifacts,
and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions and
eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits
include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock
with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from
1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish
to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second
floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under
Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits
of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts
the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the
disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the town
hall. A few posters from the Nazi era are on display, as well as
a scattering of pictures showing Poznań in ruins after Soviet
liberation, and the rebuilding efforts that followed. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Y
June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum (Muzeum
Powstania Poznańskiego - Czerwiec 1956) A-2, ul.
Św. Marcin 82/80, tel. 061 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. The 1956 anti-communist demonstrations that took place in Poznań finally find themselves
honoured with a permanent exhibit inside the Zamek. Making
use of multi-media displays visitors are sucked back through
time as they wonder around a series of dioramas that include
a replica of a typical 50s flat, military vehicles and various
keepsakes recovered from the era. Numerous photos have
been collated, including the pictures of those killed, and a big
part of the exhibition is taken up by a fabulous collection of
socialist realist art from those times. Point of pride however is
reserved for the shirt of Roman Strzałkowski, a 13 year old boy
shot dead by militia forces during the rebellion. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. Y
Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (Muzeum
Literackie Henryka Sienkiewicza) D-2, Stary Rynek
84, tel. 061 852 24 96. Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905,
Sienkiewicz is best known as the author of Quo Vadis, a
birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50
languages. The museum is located in a house that once
belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that's his
bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work
of Igancy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after paying the ransom to free Sienkiewicz's only son
from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the authors John
Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts,
correspondences and a collection of his novels including an
English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulent
rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and period
furniture, his writing desk and pictures of our hero posing
with his series of wives. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Admission 3/2zł, Fri free. Y
Military Weapon Museum (Muzeum Broni Pancernej) E-1, ul. Wojska Polskiego 86, tel. 061 857 51
66, www.cswl.mil.pl. Established in 1963 this is one of the
biggest museums of its kind in the country, with a collection
that numbers heavy machine guns, tanks, armored personnel
carriers, amphibious landing craft and other scary testaments
to military might. Most of the exhibits are of Soviet origin and
saw active service in WWII. Open only by prior appointment
only, so be warned.
Motoring Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji) E-3,
Rondo Kaponiera, tel. 061 847 63 59, www.aw.poznan.
pl. A supreme example of how not to run a museum. The old
battleaxe sitting at the kasa ignored us, staring defiantly at
paperwork in spite of our plaintive rattling on the window and
a growing queue behind us. We gave up waiting, so we've no
idea if any exhibitions may have changed since our last visit.
Expect cars, of what sort we'll leave you to find out. Found in
the subway beneath Rondo Kaponiera.QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Thu.
Admission 4/3.50zł. Y
Musical Instruments Museum (Muzeum Instrumentów Muzycznych) D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47,
tel. 061 852 08 57, www.mnp.art.pl. The only Polish
museum of professional and folk instruments, with over
2000 items from Poland and around the world. The ground
and first floors are given over to harmoniums and brass
and wooden wind instruments. The stringed instruments
include a selection of lutes dating back to the 15th century.
A collection of 160 pianos illustrates the development of
the instrument from 1750 to the early 20th century. A
separate room holds the relics of Frederic Chopin such
as documents and personal effects. The second floor
rooms contain Polish and European folk instruments as
well as fascinating instruments from all other continents.
Rounding off the exhibit is a collection of mechanical instruments: music boxes, barrel organs, juke boxes, player
pianos and gramophones. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Y
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2,
Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www.
mnp.art.pl. An excellent museum with a rich collection
of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionistic
works) in the new wing, and medieval ar t, impressive
Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old
building. The museum also holds the largest collection
of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland.
Selected paintings have extensive English explanations
about the artist and topic. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri
12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/6zł, Sat free. Y
Pharmaceutical Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,
Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. 061 851 66 15. One of the
smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to
find - go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to
the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty
pots, scales and cast iron mortars from the 19th century, and
vials dating from as far back as the 17th century. Unless you
speak German or Polish you'll find yourself wandering around in
ignorance, though the thick smell of medicine and scattering
of pots for mixing potions is liable to bring out the Harry Potter
in you. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century
pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine - while another
includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator
and an inmates uniform recovered from Mathausen. QOpen
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Monuments
There are aspects of Poznań that are impossible to miss;
the spires of her baroque churches burst spectacularly
into the sky, while her network of old town streets are
recognized as among the most captivating in Poland.
Lesser known are her many monuments, a number
of them concealed in parks or craftily hidden from the
tourist’s eye. Wackiest of the lot is the installation north
of the old town. Head up to Poznań’s Citadel Park to get
utterly freaked out over the sight of 112 two metre tall
cast iron figures seemingly making their way zombie-like
across the grass. Odd enough you might think, but not
half as alarming as when you notice none of them have
heads. Titled ‘Nierozpoznani’ (Unrecognized) the batty
installation is the work of local arts graduate Magdalena
Abakanowicz and was unveiled to coincide with Poznań’s
750th birthday celebrations in 2002. We’re unclear what
their relevance to Poznań is, or for that matter birthdays,
and no-one else seems have the answer either. Explanations have ranged from the intelligent to the downright
stupid; some pompous pillocks point out the statues
reflect the empty emotions of modern living, other critics
claim their purpose is to make individuals confront their
inner selves. Abakanowicz herself remains tight lipped
over her work, a sure sign she doesn’t have a clue either
and just came across the idea over a flagon of cider. Find
out more about the artist on www.abakanowicz.art.pl.
Next up is the monument that commemorates the
thousands of Polish officers massacred in 1940 by the
Red Army at Katyń, as well as the thousands of Poles
who were packed in cattle wagons and exiled to Siberia
during Stalin’s post-war efforts to rid the nation of its intelligentsia and anti-government elements. Known as the
Pomnik Ofiar Katynia i Sybiru you can find the 6.5 metre
tall bronze boulder on the crossroads between ul. Fredry
and Al. Niepodległości in the castle garden. Designed
by Robert Sobociński the monument was unveiled on
September 17, 1999 – the 60 th anniversary of the Soviet
invasion of Poland.
Not far away is the monument to Polish patriot and
literary hero Adam Mickiewicz. Find his bronze likeness
on Pl. Mickiewicza (F-3). The work of Bazyli Wójtowicz
it dates from 1960, and celebrates one of the nation’s
finest writers. Together with Krasiński and Słowacki he is
considered one of the ‘three bards of Poland’, and a figure
of romance, patriotism and hope during the bleak time of
19th century Tsarist oppression. But the dominant monument on this square is that of the 1956 Uprising. Made
of steel the two crosses (21 and 19 metres respectively)
were unveiled on June 28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary
of the Uprising – more of which you can read about in
our History section.
Head to Wieniawski Park (A-1) to view a bronze and steel
monument dedicated to the Polish Underground State and
Home Army. Unveiled on September 26, 2007 (the 68th
anniversary of the founding of the Polish underground
movement), the memorial is symbolic of the houses that
were destroyed during WWII, while the six eagles flying out
of it represent Poland’s flight and fight for independence.
Next on your monumental safari, don’t miss the Woodrow
Wilson monument (E-5), found in the park named after
him. The first was unveiled in 1931, but destroyed by
the Nazis during the war, and today a replica stands in
its place. Why has a Yank been immortalized in this city?
Simple. The US president did more than most to ensure
Poland’s independence in 1918, and his efforts have not
been forgotten.
July - October 2009
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72
WHAT TO SEE
Goats
The crowd you see outside the Old town Hall just before
noon each day is waiting for the goats to appear. At 12:00
precisely, the two tin creatures appear from a door in the
façade and butt heads a dozen times. The first goats
were installed in 1551 by Bartłomiej of Gubin, and over
the years have been restored and replaced. The present
goats date from 1954.
The legend goes as follows: when the clock was unveiled in
1511, it was to be shown off to the governor of the Poznań
province. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory
feast burnt the venison. Panicking, he went out and
stole a pair of goats to cook instead. But they escaped
to the City Hall tower
where the bemused
gu ests saw th em
butting heads up on
a ledge. The governor
wa s d e l i g h te d b y
the spectacle and
whimsically decreed
that mechanical goats
be added to the clock.
The fate of the cook
remains a mystery,
though the chances
are he would have
been tied up to the
whipping post directly
JvM
outside and given a bloody good thrashing.
The Bambergers
If you’ve explored the side alleys hidden behind the
town hall you will have come across a fountain featuring
a peasant girl carrying pails of water. What’s it all
about? She’s the Bamberg girl, and to answer your
next question the Bamberg people were poor Catholic
farmers from the Bamberg district of Bavaria, Germany.
They originally arrived in Poznań over 280 years ago at
the invitation of the city authorities. They were to help
rebuild villages devastated by the Northern War of 17001721 and depopulated by the spread of plague. Within
a century of arriving, the Bambergers had assimilated
into the local community, becoming patriotic Poles and
later even resisting Prussian attempts to re-Germanize
them. The bambrzy, or bambers as they were called,
played an important part in helping Poznań become
prosperous and in 1915 a fountain with a statue of a
small bamberka girl in traditional costume was erected
behind the town hall.
WHAT TO SEE
Poznań Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Poznań) G-1,
Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. 061 820
45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Militaria,
documents and photographs comprising three permanent
exhibitions. The History of the Poznań Army covers this fighting
force from 1918 to 1939; The Fighting Wielkopolska 1939-1945
details the underground resistance movements that operated
during German occupation in World War II; and Battlefield items
from the Bzura is a collection relating to the famous battle at
the river Bzura in September 1939. Outside an array of military
hardware includes a T34 tank, Katyusha rocket launchers,
an Studebaker truck and a MIG.QClosed July, August. Open
09:00-16:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Mon Closed. Admission free.
Poznan Bamber Museum (Muzeum Bambrów
Poznańskich) D-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. 0 603 64 51 62,
www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Learn everything you ever wished
to about the Bamber people inside an interesting museum
that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a
wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays number a 17th century
bonnet, spinning wheels, paintings, clothing and timber furniture
- everything you'd expect in an ethnographic museum. Outside
view clunky farming equipment and other such detritus. QOpen
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free.
Residence & Workshop of Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna
(Mieszkanie-Pracownia Kazimiery Iłłakowiczówny)
E-3, ul. Gajowa 4, tel. 061 847 36 45, www.bracz.edu.
pl. The works of the poet and writer Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna
(1892-1983) stand preserved in the studio in which she formerly lived. Everything remains as it once was, from writing
desks to personal possessions such as original manuscripts,
books and paintings. Although Iłłakowiczówna's fame is largely
limited to native academics the exhibition isn't a bad diversion
if you have a passing curiosity in how poets live. If not, give it a
miss. QOpen , Mon 13:00 - 15:00, Thu 16:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum (Wielkopolskie
Muzeum Etnograficzne) D-2, ul. Grobla 25, tel. 061 852
30 06, www.mnp.art.pl. Once one of Europe's greatest Masonic
lodges, this 19th century building now houses a permanent collection of Wielkopolska folk culture. Exhibits include sculpture,
painting, clothing, embroidery and decorative art, as well as
musical instruments and religious objects. Look out for the display
of valuable gifts, as well as a bronze statue of the Hindu goddess
Parvati - this was the first addition to the museum following the aftermath of WWII. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5,50/3,50zł, Sat free. Y
Tourist information
City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji
Miejskiej) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96
45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Tourist office with detailed
tourist and business information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Glob-Tour E-4, Dworzec Główny (Main Train Station),
tel. 061 866 06 67. This round-the-clock office in the
train station offers a large selection of maps, guidebooks
and videos. They also arrange tours and accommodation. Open 24hrs.
Tourist Information Centre C-2, Stary Rynek
59/60, tel. 061 852 61 56. Maps and guides in Polish
and English. German, French and some English spoken. Q
Open 09:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-20:00. Sun 10:00-18:00.
Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (Muzeum Martyrologii Fort VII) Al. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. 061 848 31
38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Completed in
1880 to serve as a Prussian fortress Fort VII gained notoriety
when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939
and 1944. It processed around 18,000 Polish prisoners, of
which 4,500 are estimated to have been killed. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought provoking walk
and visitors can view the ‘death wall' where up to seven
prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark
tunnels used as improvised gas chambers - a metal plaque
outside reads: ‘Here in October 1939 Nazi Germany began
the mass extermination of mentally ill people with the use of
poisoned gas'. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small
but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution
block, truncheons, whips and arrest warrants. The personal
effects of prisoners have also been preserved including hand
written letters, playing cards, rosaries and identity papers.
Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still
be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons.
Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task however. Found in the
western suburbs your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers
charging around 20zł for the journey. To get back into town
you'll usually be able to flag a cab down on the main road,
though you may wish to avoid this game of chance by getting
your driver to wait for the half an hour it takes to view the
museum. QOpen 09.00 - 17.00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Wielkopolska Military
Museum (Wielkopolskie
Muzeum Wojskowe) D-2,
Stary Rynek 9, tel. 061 852
67 39, www.mnp.art.pl/
oddzialy/wmw/index.php.
Situated inside a brutal post
WWII pavilion the Military Museum documents the history
of the Polish military from the
11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds
the collection includes the
armour of winged hussars,
sabers, muskets and cannon,
as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous
moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy' is a
particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless
in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the
Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards
from the era. The collection was decimated with WWII, with
the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak's
1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids. QOpen 11:00 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5,50/3,50zł. Sat free. Y
Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Wielkopolskiego) C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel.
061 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.
pl. Chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising this museum
occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the
Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavy
machine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy of the
uniform worn by the Uprising’s commander-in-chief, as well
as original state decorations awarded to him. Other points
of interest include a banner flown on the night of the Uprising's outbreak, photos of troop formations and a series of
postcards issued to commemorate the event.QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sat free. Y
Napoleon‘s Poznań
A cul t fi gure in military history, Napoleon
Bonaparte made several visits to what is now
modern day Poland, with
Poznań hosting him a
couple of times during
his forays into the east.
He first arrived in the
city on November 27,
1806, in a time sandwiched between victorious campaigns against
the Prussian and Russian empires respectively. In the words of
the German chronicler
Hugo Sommer, ‘for three
weeks Poznań took on
the role of the centre of the European world’.
Seen as a liberating hero by the natives (many of whom
had fought in his ranks against the Prussians, and later
against Russia), Bonaparte took residence at the former
Jesuit College (D-2, ul. Gołębia) adjacent to the Church of
Stanislaus. For the duration of his stay the college was
decorated with gifts from the people, and renamed Château de Posen, while other tributes included the rechristening of al. Marcinkowskiego to rue Napoleon. An official
reception was held in the throne room on November 28,
while the anniversary of his coronation on December 2
witnessed a celebratory mass in St Stanislaus, before the
party of nabobs headed off to a ball thrown in his honour in
what was then the Municipal Theatre (nowadays the Arkadia building, B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44). The ball, organized
by General Dąbrowski, proved to be one of the society
events of Poznań’s history, with the fun sized Frenchman
arriving with rose petals scattered in his path. Nine days
later Napoleon signed a peace treaty between France
and Saxony in the Redutowa Hall of the Hotel Saski (C-3,
ul. Wrocławska 25). It wasn’t to be his last visit to the
Saski, and he took lodgings here in 1812 on a stop-off
during his ill-fated march on Moscow.
The Saski itself is worth a visit; although now nothing
more than a row of shops it is recognized as being
Poznań’s first hotel. Designed by
Józef Małczewski,
it was constructed
b e t we en 17961797, and its hall
s e r ve d a s t h e
social centre for
the local glitterati
for the next half
a c en tur y. Fe w
signs remain of the
Frenchman’s tours
to this corner of
the world, though
die hard fans will
make the pilgrima ge to Kórnik
Castle to view his
fork and spoon.
Saski today A. Webber
July - October 2009
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WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Lech Visitors Centre
Places of Interest
Lech Visitors
Centre ul. Sz-
adela. Winiary Hill, north of the Old Town, was transformed
into a fortress from 1828 to 1839 by the Prussians. It was
destroyed in the siege of 1945, and the remains of the
fortifications house the Museum of the Poznań Army and
the Citadel Museum, which has open-air displays of military
equipment. The rest of the area the fortress occupied is now
a large park. Of note are the cemeteries that lie on the south
west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth graveyard
includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over Poland
during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those
captured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story
(minus Steve McQueen). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to
Red Army soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring
monument standing out as an awesome display of Socialist
Realism. The red star that once topped it was long removed,
the rumours that it was filled with jewels proving to be urban
myth. Jammed in between Soviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to Poles killed under Fascism,
and also during the 1956 Wielkopolska Uprising. After all the
gloom and death the installation titled ‘The Unrecognized' by
Magdalena Abakanowicz comes as light relief. Some 112 cast
iron headless figures stand at over two metres high and make
for curious viewing. Added to the park in 2002, the meaning
of the controversial installation is open to debate. For more
about the artist visit www.abakanowicz.art.pl.
wajcar ska 11
(Nowe Miasto),
tel. 061 878 74
60, www.kp.pl.
A must for all beer
aficionados. What
could b e b et ter
than half a day out
at one of Poland’s biggest breweries? The Poznan Brewery, which produces Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds lies on
the outskirts of the city.
There is no minimum number of people required for a tour
so you can happily book by yourself. They do ask that
you make an appointment for a tour the day before or at
very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite
this, our un-announced arrival presented no significant
problems - although we were naturally disappointed
thatwe would have to wait half an hour in the bar before
a guide could be rustled up.
The first hour consists of a waltz through the production
process, fermenting and mashing as well as the usual guff
about water purity and the like. The most striking thing
about the first hour’s tour through the production plant
is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of steel and
technology. The two hour tour, which is available in English,
German and Russian is both informative and thorough
and your guides are employees of the brewery chosen
for their years of experience and interest in the brewing
process. The brewery, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive, and having been treated to a facelift in the 1990s
is thoroughly modern; you’ll find yourself surrounded by
sparkling steel on all sides.
For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the multimedia centre. Here you’ll be treated to a film on the
history and production of beer, as well as a galaxy of new
attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that
you take notes because you will be quizzed on the film
when it finishes, we kid you not. Take the opportunity to
have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech which
you can then instantly email to all of your friends or get
involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to
bring out the child engineer in all of you.
After your exhausting cultural experience you’ll finish the
tour with a well-earned beer which you can choose from
their portfolio of brands, and you can complete your
immersion into the world of Lech by buying up fleeces,
keyrings, pens and beer mugs from the souvenir shop.
To get to the Brewery take a tram over to Rondo Rataje
over the river and then take the M1 bus out to the shopping mall on the edge of town.
Hop off and you can’t miss the
brewery as it has three huge
towers draped in bright green
Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi
ride from the centre will set
you back about 20zł. QOpen
10:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Citadel Park (Park Cytadela) G/H-1, Wzgórze Cyt-
Old Town Hall (Ratusz) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061
856 81 91, www.mnp.art.pl. First built at the beginning of
the 14th century, the seat of Poznań's municipal authorities
was rebuilt following the great fire of 1536. Italian architect,
Giovanni Quadro of Lugano, was commissioned to oversee
the reconstruction, and a renaissance loggia and attic were
added, offset by a classical tower. Once revered as the most
beautiful building north of the Alps, the town hall has been
beset by a catalogue of disasters. A fire in 1675, a hurricane
in 1725 and then bomb damage during WWII mean that little
of the original structure remains. The oldest surviving parts
are the cellars with their early-Gothic cross-vaulted ceilings.
Today it houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose
collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the
present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with
its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars.
The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures
from mythology. The crowds you'll see gathering outside the
building at noon are waiting for the two mechanical billy goats
to emerge. On Sundays and holidays, a bugle call also comes
from the tower; legend has it that a town-hall bugler took
care of the King of Ravens, and in return the birds helped to
save the city during a siege. Directly outside the town hall is
a whipping post, dating from 1535. It was here that miscreants were whipped, executed or led to the city boundaries
before being banished from Poznań. The figure standing on top
depicts the executioner of Poznań, and funds for the statue
were raised from fines levied on maids who would dress above
their station. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free.
Poznań Model (Makieta Poznania) C-2, ul.
Franciszkańska 2 (basement of the Franciscan Church,
entrance from Ludgarda Street), tel. 061 855 14 35,
www.makieta.poznan.pl. A huge model that shows Poznań
in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg's picture sketched
in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model
takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150.
The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect
lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling
up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to
begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and
visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań's
development. Foreigners get given headsets to listen to
heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice,
though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background
noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. And
it doesn't end there. Now added are similar models depicting
Poznan in the 11th century, as well as a detailed model of the
main square.QShows last 30 minutes and start every 45
minutes between 09:30 and 19:15. From September 1 Open
09:30-17:00 and by prior arrangement. Admission 12/9zł,
groups over 20 people 9zł per person. Y
The Castle (Zamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel.
061 646 52 76, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Construction
on Poznań's fearsome castle began in 1905, with the keys
officially handed over to Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Designed
by Franz Schwechten the building was built following neoRoman aesthetic with living quarters for the Kaiser located
in the west wing, and the throne room in the east. The small
park and rose garden in the back was inspired by the Lion's
Courtyard in the Alhambra. Between the wars it became the
seat of Poznań University though Poznań's incorporation
into the Third Reich saw sweeping changes. Albert Speer,
Hitler's pet architect set to work transforming the castle,
with a view of turning the tower chapel into the Fuhrer's
office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur
Greiser (Nazi governor of the Warthegau district). By 1944
renovation work had finished, with all the original interiors
completely remodelled. The castle was badly damaged
during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war
campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the
drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower
to a third of its original height. Used by the university in the
two years following the war, and then as the seat of local
government, the castle building has operated as a cultural
centre since 1962. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission depending on repertoire.
The Old Town Square (Stary Rynek) C/D-1/2. The
Old Town Square was the centre of old Poznań, and to this
day is rich in historic architecture, museums and restaurants.
Around 60 per cent of the old town was flattened during WWII,
though most of the houses were meticulously rebuilt in the
1950s following Baroque and Renaissance styles. Aside from
the two concrete carbuncles planted needlessly in the middle,
the town square remains one of the most picturesque in Central Europe. Behind the town hall lies the City Scales building
that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandise on
its way to the market.
Keep your eyes peeled for several interesting buildings that
rim the Rynek:
Stary Rynek 43 - Poznań's oldest chemist, Under the White
Eagle has been operating since 1564.
Stary Rynek 48 - Originally built in the 12th century the
house boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city. During the
16th century it was residence of town mayor Kacper Goski.
Author of Plague in the Air, Goski also dabbled in astrology. His
unlikely, but ultimately accurate, prediction of the Turkish defeat at the Battle of Lepanto immortalized him across Europe.
Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade and the
small portico over the doorway. During a bawdy drinking bout
King August II of Saxony tumbled out of the window; the roof
broke his fall and saved his life. Nearby a tablet marks the
level that floodwaters reached in 1736.
Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned by Mikołaj Ridt, the trader
was apparently turned into a werewolf after a foul-mouthed
outburst directed at a neighbouring convent. Following war
damage the house was rebuilt in 1945 in renaissance style.
WWII Poznań
After being annexed by Nazi
Germany in 1939 Poznań was
incorporated into the Third Reich
and saw an aggressive Germanisation policy with over 100,000
civilians expelled from the city,
replaced with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and
other far-flung regions. Of those
exiled many died in mass executions conducted in 1940 in the
area surrounding Lake Rusałka
(E-1). Gestapo HQ was located in (F/G-4) Dom Żołnierza
(ul. Niezłomnych 1), in a building that was opened in March
1939 to serve as home to a Polish military garrison.
Housing around 200 Gestapo officers the building was
primarily used as an interrogation centre with thousands
tortured in the basement. It was stormed by the Red
Army in February 1945, and fiercely defended by SS
military students who ultimately opted for mass suicide
over capture. Completely battered by this siege, the only
original remenant of the building is its tower, spared the
brunt of Soviet aggression for the fact it was used as a
reference point by artillery units. Prisoners processed
through Dom Żołnierza usually ended up in the (still functioning) prison on ul. Młynska (B-1), or the notorious Fort
VII (Al. Polska) in the far west of the city. Used as a penal
camp this network of 19th century fortifications today
serves as the Museum of Martyrdom, and its gloomy
subterranean chambers are filled with relics recovered
from the site - photographs, cutlery, wallets and rosaries.
Outside the death wall commemorates the thousands
shot by firing squad. The Jews faced a particularly vile
fate, and it was in Poznań, 1943 that Himmler delivered his
speech declaring Nazi intentions to exterminate Jewish
life. Today little survives of Poznań’s Jewish heritage, with
the early 19th century graveyard on ul. Głogowska (E-4)
destroyed by the Nazis, before being commandeered by
the authorities in the post-war period and incorporated
into the MTP trade fair. Earmarked to serve as the palatial
quarters of Gauleiter Arthur Greiser heavy reconstruction
work on the Zamek (A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82) by Albert
Speer meant that in reality Gresier spent much of the
war residing on ul. Berwińskiego 5, today the home of a
local radio station. Once the Soviet siege began Poznań
was as good as doomed, with the old town faced with
around 90% total destruction. A few images of the city
in ruins can be viewed in the History of Poznan Museum
inside the town hall (C-1, Stary Rynek 1). Another area
defended to the last man was the citadel in the north of
the city, which today houses the Poznan Army Museum
(G-1). Of note are the cemeteries that lie on the south
west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth graveyard
includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over
Poland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those captured during The Great Escape - yes it
was a true story (minus Steve McQueen and a few other
Hollywood touches). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to
Red Army soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a
soaring monument standing out as an awesome display
of Socialist Realism. The red star that once topped it was
long removed, the rumours that it was filled with jewels
proving to be an urban myth. Jammed in between Soviet
and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to
Poles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956
Wielkopolska Uprising.
July - October 2009
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76
THE PIAST ROUTE
Those looking to trace the birth of the Polish nation should
make it in their interests to follow the Piast Route, a tourist
trail specifically designed to take in the key sights associated with Poland’s formative years. Consisting of dozens
of castles, churches, cathedrals and museums the route
encompasses a vast variety of sights, some relevant to
Poland’s beginnings, others whose inclusion is a little baffling. Below are our favourites:
Biskupin
CASTLES OF WIELKOPOLSKA
Strzelno
Łagów Castle
Although a tiny town of
just 12,000 Strzelno is
one of the most important
points on the trail of the
Piasts. Visit St. Adalbert’s
Hill to view the Church of St.
Prokopus, a rotund house
of worship whose history
allegedly goes back to the
12th century. Next to it is
the Basilica, and though it
was retouched in Baroque
style its history goes way
beyond those times; in
1946 routine restoration work by professor Zdzisław Kępinski
revealed a set of Romanesque columns which had been hidden from view for over 200 years. These columns are thought
to be over 800 years old, and the only similar ones on record
are to be found in Venice and Santiago de Compostella.
ul. Kościuszki 3, Łagów, tel. 068 341 21 19, www.
zamek-lagow.pl.
Lying halfway between Poznań and Berlin Łagów Castle is
surprisingly easy to access. If you’re traveling by car make
the 100km trip past Świecko and Świebodzin, before leaving
the main road and turning right at Gronów. Łagów lies 6km
away. Alternatively take a train from Poz to Świebodzin, and
from there take a bus to Łagów.
Gołuchów Castle
The Castle
First off you’ll need
to know that while
Łagów makes for
an easy journey
this is no daytrip;
since being
renovated by the
Centre for Sports
a n d To u r i s m i n
1971 Łagów has
functioned solely
as a restaurant,
h otel
an d
conference centre,
so if you want to
snoop around
you’ll need to shell
out on one of the
aforementioned.
Jan Jerszyński The good news is
that this place is
as cheap as a bag of buttons – doubles cost from 180200zł per night, and not only do you get to live the dream
of staying in a castle for the night, you can even opt for a
night in a ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed
this is every gimps dream and comes complete with clunky
manacles suspended from the walls and other scary bits
and pieces. Bear in mind there’s only 14 rooms here, so do
book in advance to avoid disappointment.
First mention of Łagów, or castrum Lagowe, can be traced
back to 1299 when it was awarded to a knight named Albert
von Klepzig by a group of Brandenburg magistrates. The
history books concerning the fortress are vague to say the
least, though we do know that in 1347 it was leased to the
Johanniter Knights, who belonged to the Order of St John, and
it was also in this century that ramparts were built and the
castle started taking on the form of which we are now familiar
with. The castle only saw action once, during the 30 Years
War (1618-1648), though passed its acid test with flying
colours; its stoic defenders successfully beating off an attack
by Swedish troops. As time passed the Johanniter’s became
an evangelical knighthood which allowed them to marry, with
the first commander of the castle to advantage of this being
Andreas von Schlieben. He died in 1571 and was buried in the
local church, but that doesn’t mean you’ve got no chance of
meeting him. In 1820 the president of the Poznań Treasury
was visiting the castle when he saw the ghostly shape of a
knight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. The
ghost apparently bore a canny likeness to the image on von
Schlieben’s tomb and has been spotted several times since;
though only in spring and summer, and only by men. There
is no sane explanation for the flames that accompany him,
but don’t let that ruin a good story.
As time passed the Johanniter order was secularized on
the whim of Frederic Wilhelm III and the estate was taken
over by the state, before being sold on to a series of private
landowners. It escaped WWII undamaged and today original
details like the 15th century brick gate can still be viewed.
The Castle
A marvellous castle with an absolute feast of delights lying in
wait for those who make the journey. The elaborate Gołuchów
has taken many forms over the years, though its beginnings
were less than auspicious. It was in 1560 when the local
governor Rafał IV Leszczyński chose to build a fortified tower
on this spot, filling it with only the most spartan of fixtures and
fittings. The castle started taking shape in the following decades
when Wacław Leszczyński, no doubt inspired by his studies in
Italy and Germany, decided to attach a palace complex to the
tower, as well as adding several elaborate details to the original
structure. These included carved stone fireplaces, ornamental
doors and his vast collection of paintings, though by the 18th
century the castle – badly damaged during the course of the
100 Years War – had fallen into disrepair.
A new lease of life was granted when Tytus Działyński (see
Kórnik Castle, What to see) bought the castle in 1853 and
gifted it to his only son, Jan Kanty. Having returned from
political exile in Paris (for his part in the January Uprising,
1831) Kanty set about remodelling the castle to follow neogothic and renaissance forms. It was Kanty’s wife though,
Izabella Elżbieta Czartoryska, who set about making the
castle famous. It was her who didn’t accept original plans
for renovation on account of them being too austere, and it
was her who made the decision to open a museum. By her
death in 1899 the halls of the castle were filled with paintings,
tapestries and sculptures dating from the 16th century. The
outbreak of WWII spelled disaster for this collection. Although
the treasures were stacked away in metal trunks and hidden
in Warsaw they were discovered by the Nazis, with the biggest
museums of the Third Reich squabbling over the riches.
Although much of the collection was recovered after the war
most of the spoils were split between the National Museums
in Warsaw and Poznań, while the castle itself – used as a
warehouse for Nazi uniforms – was left a broken shadow of
its former glory. The efforts to restore both museum and
castle have been Herculean, and today your first sight of it
may remind of the Loire Chateau.
The museum is well worth the visit alone, with antiquities
including vases from 3BC, 16th century books and manuscripts,
gothic artwork and a number of relics that formerly belonged
to t h e p r e - wa r
m u s e u m . Th e
annex near th e
castle contains a
forestry museum
with all manner
of stuffed beasts
on display, and
you may be lucky
enough to spot
a Polish bison
lumping around
the surrounding
grounds.
Mausoleum
Trzemeszno
In 1933 an eagle-eyed school master spotted wooden stakes
sticking out of some lakeside reeds and like a conscientious citizen went to investigate. What he had inadvertently
stumbled on was to become known as the Polish Pompeii:
a Lusatian fortified settlement dating from the early Iron
Age. Excavation work was launched the following year, and
carried on under the request of Himmler once Poland fell to
Germany. Situated 90km north east of Poznań Biskupin has
since become a popular symbol of patriotism, proof to many
that Poland has always proudly defended its borders against
the Germans. Today the wooden fortress has been fully reconstructed and is open throughout the year as an open air
museum. Although not connected with the Piast dynasty it
is seen as a vital part of the route that traces Poland’s early
origins. Without a doubt Biskupin rates as one of the great
wonders of Poland, but that doesn’t mean tourists will find
it easy to get there. Your best bet is to either hire a car or
hijack a helicopter. If you’re travelling from Poznań using public
transport you’ll be left with no choice but spending a night in
the local town of Żnin. For more info check the comprehensive
English language website at www.biskupin.pl.
Kruszwica
Found on the banks of Lake Gopło this is a historic market
town that became one of the first fortified settlements in the
region. Your camera lens is going to primarily be zooming in on
the Mouse Tower (Mysia Wieża), a 32 metre structure sitting
on the Rzępowski Peninsula. Apparently built during the reign
of Kazimierz the Great the tower was awarded its name after
a plague of rodents allegedly ate Prince Popiel - a devious
chap who had poisoned some rivals.
Ostrów Lednicki
Found between Poznań and Gniezno a trip to Lake Lednicki
allows the opportunity to visit the Museum of the First
Piasts - Poland’s largest open-air museum. Situated on an
island tourists get to wander around the 10th century ruins
of a castle and church once used by both Mieszko I and his
son. Once connected to the mainland by a pair of bridges the
fortress is thought to have played its part during in repelling
the Czech invasion of 1038 and archaeological relics that
have been recovered since include weaponry, cutlery and
the skeleton of a fallen Czech warrior.
Before St. Adalbert’s corpse made it to Gniezno it was originally laid to rest in this town. Apparently founded in the 10th
century Trzemeszno features a baroque church dating from
the 18th century, as well as a monument to the local-born
hero Jan Kiliński. A cobbler by trade he went on to become the
unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being
wounded twice Kiliński led his men to capture the Russian
Ambassador’s Warsaw residence, and he is said to embody
the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism.
Wenecja
Five kilometers south of Żnin, Wenecja (Venice) is a small
settlement whose name alludes to its picturesque location
tucked between three lakes. Known as the ‘Pearl of Pałuki’
the town is home to a Narrow Gauge Railway Museum, with
its collection featuring a number of steam locomotives (the
oldest dating back to 1900), various detritus recovered from
the age of steam and a working line that takes captivated
visitors all the way to Żnin (stopping at Biskupin). But the real
point of interest here are the skeletal ruins of a former Piast
stronghold. A leftover from the 14th century the castle once
came under the ownership of Mikołaj Nałęcz, a nasty judge
who originated from Kalisz. Nicknamed the ‘devil of Wenecja’
his ghost is said to stalk the ruins at night.
Wylatowo
Founded in 1358 - right at the tail end of King Kazimierz’s rule
- the town of Wylatowo has the most tenuous connections
with the Piasts, however you’ll find it included in all the bumph
related to the Piast Route because of two factors. Firstly, it’s
home to the only triple-aisled wooden church in Poland (built
1761). Secondly, it’s famous for extra-terrestrial activity. We
kid you not. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped
object was photographed floating in the skies in 2007, with
lab tests since confirming that there were no camera tricks
or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s not the
only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop circles first
started appearing in the neighbouring fields Wylatowo has
established itself as a mecca for Polski ufologists. While some
claim the circles are the work of savvy farmers looking to
make a quick buck science geeks and X-Files style investigations have yet to determine the cause of this annual summer
phenomena. For more info, including live transmissions from
the affected areas visit www.ufotv.pl.
See Kórnik Castle:
page 82
Gołuchów, tel. 062 761 50 94.
Situated 115km from Poznań, and 20km north west of Kalisz,
Gołuchów can be reached directly by bus from Poznań’s
main bus station.
July - October 2009
77
78
GNIEZNO
GNIEZNO
Adalbertus ul. Tumska 7a, tel. 061 426 13 60, fax 061
426 13 60 ext. 160, [email protected], www.
pietrak.pl. Younger sister of the Pietrak Hotel, this one
situated within eyeshot of the Cathedral and set around a
courtyard filled with shrubbery. Found inside a restored 18th
century building the Adalbertus features small but decent
rooms, many overlooking the cathedral outside. Word of
warning - light sleepers should ask for a room anywhere
but above the restaurant.Q 24 rooms (6 singles 128 160zł, 14 doubles 152 - 190zł, 4 apartments 240 - 300zł).
THAULKXW hhh
with framed oil paintings, fragile crockery and pointy linen
napkins. The menu promises all the standards of Polish
country cooking, and if you’re lucky you’ll find your meal
complimented by live jazz performances. QOpen 10:00 23:00. (13-49zł). PTABS
Ristorante Italiano ul. Tumska 12 (Hotel Albertus), tel. 061 426 13 60, wwww.pietrak.pl. A formal
looking restaurant wi th lots of brocade, red vel vety
touches and swish cur tains. The food comes ser ved
by impeccably presented gents, and includes a host of
Italian classics, as well as some ver y good pizzas for
takeway moments. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (11-70zł).
TAUBXSW
AWO ul. Warszawska 32, tel./fax 061 426 11 97, re-
[email protected], www.hotel-awo.pl. A superb deal
accessed via an arched courtyard. Toothpaste smile service
checks you in at reception before leading you up the stainless
steel stairs to spacey rooms that come fitted with cable TV,
vast beds and heating that is guaranteed to melt any icicles
that have formed on your nose. Under-equipped travelers
will appreciate the house computer for your internerd needs
and the mini-shampoo in the bathrooms. Q40 rooms (15
singles 160zł, 17 doubles 210zł, 1 triple 250zł, 1 suite 300zł,
3 apartments 300zł). THARULKXW hhh
Alex Webber
While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city
as Poland’s first capital anyone with a passing knowledge
of history will identify this as a fib. That title belongs to
Gniezno, a picturesque town lying 50km east of Poz.
Of all the towns, villages and cities in Poland nowhere
is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish
state than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventually
shifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained
an important centre of worship and to this day is still
regarded as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor
it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superb
medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland.
Getting there
Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań.
Trains run frequently throughout the day with the last one in
the evening leaving Gniezno at approximately 22:40. You’ve
got two class of trains to choose from, either the Pospieszny,
which has a habit of packing out with students buried under
backpacks, or the Osobowy, which lurches to a stop at every
hamlet. Journey time will take anything from fifty minutes to
an hour and a quarter and one way tickets retail at little more
than 10-12zł. Travellers using the Pospieszny train should note
that Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any
tannoy announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train
station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, an upstairs internet
cafe, newsagent and cafe. Getting to town is ABC stuff with
the Rynek lying little more than a ten minute from the station.
Simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and
then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively live the
high life and splash out on a cab: five złoty should be enough
to get you dropped off in the Rynek.
Hotels
While there may be no international brands present in
Gniezno, the city does offer a pretty decent selection of
places to rest your head at very impressive prices if you
are travelling from the west.
Gewert ul. Paczkowskiego 2, tel. 061 428 23 75, fax
gewert.gniezno.pl. Set inside a modern brick building the
Gerwert touts all weather tennis courts, conference facilities
and rooms decorated in vivacious shades of blue and yellow.
Clean, comfortable and a short cab ride from the Rynek. Q24
triples 207 - 230zł, 1 suite 207 - 230zł, 2 apartments 189 210zł). THUKXW hh
Lech ul. Bł. Jolenty 5, tel. 061 426 23 85, fax 061 424
57 33, [email protected], www.hotel-lech.pl. A
brutalist, blockish structure offering cheap rooms decorated
with plastic plants and furnishings not seen for a couple of decades. Expect lots of dark brown; a great colour for cake, not
for carpet. Nonetheless it’s decent and clean and apparently
a popular choice for conferences. Q32 rooms (29 singles
120 - 140zł, 27 doubles 150 - 170zł, 4 triples 180 - 200zł).
HAFKDXC h
Medical Vocational School Boarding House ul.
Mieszka I 27, tel./fax 061 426 34 09, medykgniezno@
op.pl, www.medyk.gniezno.pl. The best bargain in town
and as such it should come as little surprise to find no room
in the inn. The lodgings here are basic but the fittings are new
and kept meticulously scrubbed, and many of the rooms stare
out onto a quiet courtyard. TVs and spanking clean bathrooms
are part of the price. Good luck finding it though: you’ll need
to walk deep into the medical academy that runs this place,
before taking your chances with a monolingual receptionist.Q
No breakfast served. 50 dorm beds 35-40zł per person. X
Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel./fax 061 426 14 97,
[email protected], www.pietrak.pl. Set inside a restored
townhouse overlooking the high street the Pietrak has long
been considered the best hotel in town, which is why you’ll find
political luminaries such as Lech Wałęsa and former president
Aleksander Kwaśniewski listed in the guestbook. The feast of
facilities includes a fitness club and spa, though if you’re tired
of running around then get someone else to do it for you; room
service is available at your beck and call. Lodgings feature
internet, mini-bar and cable TV and the neo-classical rooms
come decorated in swish green and cream colours. Beds go
quickly here, so do consider booking in advance.Q54 rooms
(9 singles 180zł, 28 doubles 210zł, 8 suites 250zł, 9 apartments 320zł). PTHAUFGKDCW hhhh
Alex Webber
Restaurants
Hotel Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel. 061 426 14 97,
www.pietrak.pl. The best hotel in town, but definitely not
the best meal. Pietrak looks like it fits the bill with its bowtie waiters, creeping ivy and classical columns but there’s
no masking a disappointing meal. The menu claims the
Chancellor of Germany dined here in 2000 and guests can
still eat from the tailor made menu prepared for him. We can
only assume the chefs have since changed. We opted for
steak in Bernaise sauce accompanied with jacket potatoes
and dumplings. The potatoes turned out to be crinkly fries,
the dumplings must have got lost in the kitchen and as for
the steak; we asked for medium, it came back alive. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. (15-50zł). PAUEBXS
Ratuszowa ul. Chrobrego 40/41, tel. 061 424 32 23,
www.ratuszowa.gniezno.pl. Rated by many as the top
restaurant in Gniezno, and it certainly looks the part: black
and white flooring, parlour palms and soothing cream colours.
It all looks very ballroom and the menu is suitably high end
with offerings that range from zander fillet to saddle of deer.
Diners be warned, their opening hours are rigorously enforced,
which is exactly why we were turned away at 10pm on a Friday night. Better luck next time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (21-48zł). PTARUBXS
Ready’s ul. Pałucka 2, tel. 061 428 69 60, www.readys.
com.pl. A smallish Greek inspired spot with whitewashed
walls, a lovely terrace and supremely friendly girl to note your
order. The food won’t win many awards, but for Gniezno the
gyros and souvlaki provide a very commendable alternative
to Gniezno’s slew of pizza joints. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. (11-21zł). PAUGS
Restauracja Polska ul. Tumska 5, tel. 061 426 18
00, www.5.gniezno.pl. A super restaurant split into different sections: cafe, restaurant, bistro - not to mention a
heavenly garden that will no doubt be closed the moment
you read this. Inside numerous chambers come decorated
Sphinx ul. Chrobrego 4, tel. 061 426 13 73, www.
sphinx.pl. Definitely not a gourmet experience but say
it quietly, Sphinx is one of the best chances you have of
eating well in Gniezno. You’re probably already familiar with
the concept by now; shoarmas, gyros, pizzas and steaks
all served with an accompanying spade of cabbage amid
an interior of plastic trees and multi-coloured lanterns. The
authenticity is definitely there to be questioned. This is after
all a Polish chain serving middle eastern food with recipes
apparently coined by Tom Maltom. Correct me if I’m wrong
but it’s highly unlikely the pharaohs had their feasts prepared
by a bloke named Tom. Nonetheless Sphinx is cheap, simple
and hits your daily calorie count in one swoop, and that can’t
be faulted. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.
(18-46zł). PTABXSW
Złoty Smok ul. Kaszarska 1a, tel. 061 426 78 04. Like
so many of the Chinese restaurants in Poland the Golden
Dragon goes straight for the eyes, blinding the visitor with a
carnival of lanterns, painted screens and other ghastly bits
and pieces. This is not Chinese food the way it’s served back
home, but that’s not to say it’s not worth visiting. The prices
here are derisory, your coins winning you steaming bowls of
all the beef, duck and chicken dishes you’d expect. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (8-25zł). PS
Bars & Clubs
Dracula Pub Rynek 15. To find that Gniezno has a nightlife
comes as an unexpected plus, to then find it has a Dracula
pub is enough to have you considering relocating. ‘Love never
dies’ proclaims a sign above the threshold, and from thereon
it’s a cheery romp through the underworld as a maze of subterranean chambers reveal walls adorned with scary zombie
masks, lanterns with Halloween faces and coffin-shaped
doors. Find a solitary bargirl looking completely bemused by
it all as she attempts to multitask between homework and
finding a radio signal. Completely unexpected and a fantastic
diversion, even if none of the locals seem to agree. QOpen
16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
Pub ul. Rzeźnicka 7 (entrance from ul. Chrobrego 3),
tel. 061 426 14 97 ext. 158, www.pietrak.pl. Possibly
the most popular drinkery in town, and while the name
lacks imagination the interior doesn’t. Murals of cacti, a
couple of wagon wheels and a wood frame bar suggest an
attempt at a Dodge City bar, and other extras include an
unexplained mannequin staring from atop of a mezzanine.
The visual diversions don’t end there; the moment work
finishes you’ll find half of Gniezno choosing to drink here,
and it won’t take for outsiders to note that they’re a good
looking bunch. Plenty of eye candy here, a screen for football
and a background noise of party tunes lend this place a
permanent buzz that lasts long into the evening. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PAUEBX
July - October 2009
79
80
GNIEZNO
The Birth of Poland
Seeing that Poland occupies a fair chunk of Europe it’s
safe to assume it has a history to match the greatest
of nations. Indeed, to pen the full story of Poland and its
origins would be to come up with a tome thick enough
to stun an elephant. So we’ve skipped a few steps and
come up with the idiot’s guide to the birth of Poland, and
the key sights that the amateur historian should view.
Poland’s first ruling family were the Piast’s, and although
legend has the family line going back to the 8th century
we’ll start our story with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s
the fella on the face of the ten złoty note). Born in 935AD
his life generally revolved around the battlefield, leading
his troops into battle from the Baltic Coast to the plains
of Silesia. When he wasn’t hacking heads off he spent
most of his time in the Wielkopolska region, specifically
in his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrow Lednicki.
Baptised in 966 he founded the cathedral in Poznań two
years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of
the nation’s Christianisation. Following his death in 992
he was succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the
20zł note), and it’s around this time where our story gathers pace. Adalbert had been the first Bishop of Prague,
though the strains of the job proved too much for him.
Seeking a quieter life he took up residence in Gniezno.
Persuaded out of exile he set off to convert the barbarous
Prussian tribes to Christianity. It turned out to be a foolish
move: he was killed immediately, his head ending up on a
spike. Bolesław decided to recover the corpse, and made
the perilous journey westwards to do so. A ransom was
paid and he headed back to Poland with the corpse in
tow. It was a selfless act, and one that so impressed the
Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman
Empire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view the body and meet
with Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later
Bolesław had himself crowned king. Commonly known
as Bolesław the Great or Bolesław Chrobry the nation’s
first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland,
as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing
through his smart diplomacy. His son and heir, Mieszko
II, didn’t fare so well, dying in suspicious circumstances
nine years into his reign. In spite of his sticky demise the
Piast’s remained in power, and continued to rule Poland
for centuries to come. Their successes were hit-and-miss,
and the rulers frequently found themselves at conflict with
the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened
to disintegrate, and it wasn’t until the coronation in 1320
of Władysław I that concerted efforts were once more
made to unite Poland’s different provinces. The work of
Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would
later be known through history as Kazimierz the Great - he
doubled the size of Poland, stabilized the economy, and
commissioned the construction of a number of castles
and forts. What he failed to do, however, was have a son.
Not one of his four wives was able to bear him a son, and
his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty.
Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th
century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the
Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. The Piast Route
covers the most important sites connected with Poland’s
early beginnings, and presents the mobile tourist with a
number of forts, cathedrals, ruins and miscellaneous locations to visit. For a comprehensive list visit the website of
the Piast Route Tourist Organization at www.turystyka.
powiat-gniezno.pl.
GNIEZNO
Pub Cafe ul. Warszawska 32, tel. 061 426 11 97, www.
hotel-awo.pl. Inch your way down a set of spiral stairs to find
this basement bar. Filled with sporting trophies, mirrors and
timber this is where the local lads head to in order to catch
the match, their beer poured with panache by a personable
gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Check out the posters on the walls to see what games stand to be broadcast.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. AXW
The Gniezno Cathedral (Archikatedra
Gnieźnieńska) ul. Łaskiego 7, tel. 061 426 19 09.
Churches
Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the
cathedral is the ‘Gniezno doors’, a pair of winged bronze
doors dating from the 12th century, and it’s here you’ll begin
your tour. Regarded as one of the most important pieces
of Romanesque art in Poland the doors feature 18 panels,
each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St
Adalbert. Start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel,
and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are an
exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on the
fourteenth. That’s his head on a stick in the next.
Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) ul. Farna 6, tel.
061 426 15 55. An interesting church with a Gothic tower whose
key feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving figure
of St Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed by fire and its
interiors were thereafter treated with a baroque brush. Outside
are the only skeletal remains of the ancient city walls which once
ringed Gniezno. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Museums
Museum of Gniezno Archdiocese (Muzeum Archidiecezji Gnieźnieńskiej) ul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. 061 426
37 78, www.muzeumag.pl. If you’re eyes are still hankering
for the sight of more treasure then head here to view a lavish
collection of ecclesiastical riches: gold goblets, embroidered
vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffin
portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged
to St. Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for the
eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/4zł.
The Museum of the Origins of the Polish State
(Muzeum Początków Państwa Polskiego) ul.
Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. 061 426 46 41, www.mppp.pl.
Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle this museum features numerous audio-visual presentations designed to appeal
to the numerous school trips that file through the doors, as
well copies of archaeological relics dating back to the founding
of the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls and
daggers. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 18zł,
group ticket over 10 people 5,50/3,50zł per person, Sun free.
Old town
Gniezno received its city charter in 1285, and as with all
towns the action came firmly centred around the market
square (Rynek). The great fire of Gniezno in 1819 gutted this
area, and most buildings have been rebuilt since that day.
Look closely and you’ll see red bricks marking what once
formed the town perimeter, as well as nameplates dedicated
to the cities and firms who have funded more recent restoration work. The little pyramid structures denote where the
town gates once were. What remains of the old city walls can
be found south of the Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and the
Holy Trinity Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every
turn, though predictably none representing the Jewish faith;
the towns one synagogue suffered a fiery fate after a highranking nazi official broke his leg while clambering up it in a
post-party alcoholic stupor. Infuriated by his misfortune the
budding fascist ordered the buildings destruction. In recent
years the towns finest moment came when the Congress
of Gniezno was held here in 2000. The leaders of Germany,
Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met in Gniezno
to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of unity
planted five oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’ running
north of the Rynek. The German chancellor later dined in the
restaurant of the Hotel Pietrak (itself a former vodka factory),
and diners have the opportunity to order exactly what he ate.
Gniezno’s cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of
Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kings
were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided
tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while
a follow up solo tour allows you to take stock of the riches
and relics before you.
Now, here’s the interesting part. This might be one of the
most important treasures in Poland, but no-one has a clue
who designed it. In fact, it’s highly likely the pair of doors
weren’t even made together. Look closely and you’ll see that
the left side is higher and wider, as well as more detailed in
its engravings, indicating that the set of doors are possibly
the work of a master and his apprentice. We do know they
probably originated in Germany, but the trail stops there.
The portal that frames the door is worth further investigation
in its own right. Dating from 1400 it features an engraving of
Jesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark
the entrance to heaven). The two swords in his mouth are
symbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth,
while the animals carved in stone represent human vices - for
instance the rabbit is cowardice, the squirrel greed and the
fox cunning. Keep your eyes peeled for the scratching on the
left side - what looks like the work of a vandals key is actually the sign of the craftsmen who built the portal (in those
days artists marked their work with a sign, not a signature).
Next up on your tour is a trip to the crypt. In it there’s Poland’s
oldest gravestone, as well as the remains of a fireplace that
pre-dates the cathedral - indication that the site was most
probably a pagan place of worship. Early foundations and
details have also been excavated, and one can view remains
of an early alter, walls and tiled flooring (whose patterning is
copied on the ten złoty note). It’s here you’ll also be able to
view the coffins of the past primates of Poland, as well as a
collection of mysterious looking urns and pots.
And so, onto the cathedral proper. Recently subject to renovation work Gniezno Cathedral looks finer than ever. Originally built
between 1324 and 1370 the cathedral has been patched up
and embellished over the course of time, and nowadays it is
the baroque flourishes that steal the show. It’s impossible
to put a figure on the number of must see details, and it’s at
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre Rynek 14, tel. 061
428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. An Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno related info. Expect English language
pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel and
restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of
an amicable young team of local enthusiasts.QFrom
July Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. From October Open 08:00-16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
this stage where having a
guide becomes invaluable.
First off, you’ll have differences between the nave
and presby ter y pointed
out - the style of the former
sug gests it was built in
Germany, while the latter
has a design more familiar
with English and French workshops. The 13 arcades around
the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and
there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism.
Head to the furthest side chapel on the left of the main entrance to see paintings of Polish saints, passing on your way
one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Krakow.
In total the cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels, whom
when grouped together constitute the largest collection of
ecclesiastical grating in the country. Behind these metal
grills are a number of points of interest, including a miracle
working crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has
accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th
century when it was first seen to bleed.
The confession, situated at the top end of the cathedral, is
stunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of St
Peter’s in Rome. Behind it is the silver sarcophagus of St
Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van
Rennen. Considered the most important relic in the country
the silver coffin is balanced on six eagles, and carried on the
figures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight.
Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view the
library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating
from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first recorded
use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by
Poland’s former regents. As frustrating as this locked door
policy is it’s fully understandable. The cathedral has had
misfortune served up by the spade. Its significance to the
Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s
been burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerous
occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while
the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason.
The Nazis, on the other hand, had other plans. Hitler’s portrait
replaced that of St Adalbert and the cathedral was earmarked
to serve as a concert venue for high ranking fascists. However,
on the opening night, just when these Nazi nabobs were settling
into their seats a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall,
disappearing into the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but none hit their mark. Was this a ghostly
apparition, or simply the work of a local prankster? Thoroughly
spooked the Nazis weren’t hanging around to find out, and plans
to turn the cathedral into a concert hall were shelved thereafter.
Although the German occupiers refused to set foot in the
cathedral it still wasn’t safe from their beastly designs. Employing Volksdeutsch workers they set about stripping the building
of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless
treasures to shady vaults. The confession escaped them,
however, hidden single-handedly by one conscientious worker.
The organ too survived, only to be blown to smithereens by
the Soviets in 1945. The bell shared the same fate, and the
original one now lies outside the main entrance. The bell tower
is open in better weather and its 214 steps lead to panoramic
views across town. What you won’t find however is a bell - ever
since the Russians re-arranged the cathedral all the bells have
been housed in a separate building. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00,
13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 2,5/2zł. Group ticket for
up to 20 people 1,5/1zł per person. Guide 30zł.
July - October 2009
81
82
KÓRNIK
KÓRNIK
Kórnik Castle (Zamek Kórnik) ul. Zamkowa 5,
Kórnik, tel. 061 817 00 81, www.bkpan.poznan.pl.
Originally built at the tail end of the 14th century by the Górka
family, the castle has been extensively remodelled through
the centuries, and is one of the few cultural treasures that
was spared the hurricane of destruction of WWII. The ideal
backdrop for a supernatural horror, the corridors of Kórnik
represent a marvellous trip through time.
Hailed as one of the great castles in Poland the neo-Gothic
Kórnik lies 20km south east of Poznań and makes for an
easy day trip for those looking to see a little more of the
region.
Getting there
If you’re in Poznań the easiest way to reach Kórnik is by bus.
You have two choices. Either take the private Kombus bus
(tel. 061 898 06 66, www.kombus.com.pl), numbers 501,
502 or 560 which leave from the Kombus bus station (I-5,
Rataje Roundabout, ul. Krzywoustego 19). Tickets are bought
directly from the driver - just ask for Kórnik Rynek, hand the
man 5.80/2.90zł (for students up to the age of 26, children
under 4 travel free) and away you go. Your journey will take
around 30 minutes. There is at least one bus every hour
departing around 12 minutes past the hour on weekdays
with an extra bus running at peak times. At weekends buses
leave once an hour, most hours, at the start of the hour.
Buses run from 05:12 until 23:37. There is also a PKS bus
(tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl) that runs from Main
Bus Station (F-4 ul. Towarowa 17/19). The first one leaves
at 05:30 and the last 22:30. Buses leave Poznań at least
once an hour with additional buses between 11:00 and 17:00.
Ticket costing 7zł may be bought in the ticket office in the
station or from the driver.
The castle is a ten minute walk from the bus stop, and the
closer it looms the more impressive it appears. Founded by
the Górka’s this noble family fell into extinction and, after bitter
ownership wrangles, the castle passed into the hands of the
Działyński family at the end of the 17th century. It would remain
the family domain until 1880 when it was inherited by their
closest (legitimate) relative, Władyslaw Zamoyski, who before
his death in 1924 bequeathed the castle to the Polish nation.
Kórnik
Penned in by lakes and forests Kórnik (pop. 6,500) is your
signature provincial town, with its principal high street lined
with trees and two storey townhouses dating from the 18th
and 19th century.
On alighting from the bus you’ll be met with the sight of All
Saints’ Church, a beautiful brick building founded in 1437
and funded by the Górka’s. It was rebuilt in a neo-Gothic
style in 1826 after being gutted by fire, and its crypt holds
All Saints’ Church
A. Webber
Kórnik Castle
A. Webber
members of the Działyński and Zamoyski families - more of
them later. Other points of interest include ‘the eye of the
needle’, a narrow passage leading to a now defunct Jewish
prayer house (find it on the main high street as you go into
town, keeping an eye out for the Hebrew inscription on the
wall), as well as the neo Baroque town hall, now serving as the
seat of local government. Built in 1907 its stand out feature
is the mechanical rooster that appears out of the clock on
the strike of noon.
The name of Kórnik is thought to refer to the locals’ skill in
raising roosters (kur) and as such you’ll find no shortage of
game on offer in the local restaurants. The best address
in town is Biała Dama (Pl. Niepodległości 20, 061 817 02
16), a vast restaurant hidden inside a squat reminder of the
1960s. Festooned with plants, ceremonious lighting and the
obligatory picture of The White Lady, they have the benefit
of an English menu on which you’ll find dishes like boar and
venison. Unless you have the fortune of having your moment
of quiet contemplation hijacked by a wedding party its more
than likely you’ll be doing your dining in echoing silence. For a
more down to earth experience hit Kórnicka (ul. Poznańska
19/21, 061 898 06 22) - a locals restaurant with yellow
walls, local radio and the lonely chime of grandfather clocks
to remind you of the desperation of living in the sticks. No
booze license, and no English menu, though the greasy
plates of Polish food will do enough to keep you from cannibalism. If you’re keen to linger on in Kórnik then consider
booking a night in Hotel Daglezja (ul. Woźniaka 7, tel. 061
897 27 00, www.hoteldaglezja.pl, singles 179zł, doubles
219zł, apartments 299zł). The bad news is the exterior, a
complete work of insanity; although given a modern look
the horror includes a mock castle tower complete with
pieces of stone cladding, and a connecting wing painted in
ghastly rainbow colours. Fortunately the accommodation
is great, with a very decent contemporary standard, new
fittings and highly commendable restaurant serving local
and European dishes.
Today the castle owes its appearance to the Działyński
family, with the last reconstruction occurring during the
19th century while the castle was under the stewardship of
Tytus Działyński. Having originally commissioned the Italian
architects Corazzi and Marconi to draw up plans Tytus was
put off by the extravagant costs of their suggestions so
commissioned a third architect, the German K.E Schinkel
(responsible for many of Berlin’s neo-classical structures). Although Schinkel prepared detailed sketches he never actually
visited Kórnik, so a frustrated Tytus - a savvy engineer - took
matters into his own hands and used a conglomeration of his
own ideas and previously submitted plans. Taking a handson approach both he and his wife designed all the interiors
themselves, leaving their indelible mark on the castle.
Accessed across a wooden draw bridge a visit to the castle
does not begin until you’ve strapped a pair of oversized
slippers to your feet and done a couple of deft ice-skating
moves on the slidey surfaces. Immediately to your right
lies the study of Zamoyski, the last owner. Furnished with
17th century Gdańsk cupboards the room also includes a
mahogany desk from England, a 19th century Webster’s
dictionary and a travelling chest that the workaholic Zamoyski would sometimes use as a pillow. Further on the route
takes you through a variety of chambers, each packed with
paintings and ornate furnishings. The drawing room is one of
the highlights of the ground floor, and features a grand piano
owned by Tytus’ sister, Claudyna. Given to her in Dresden,
legend has it that Chopin once tickled these ivories in his
bid to seduce her. The fireplace, grand as it is, should be
noted for other reasons. It’s in here that a patriotic Tytus hid
to escape arrest for his involvement in the 1831 Uprising.
Other treasures to look for include a rotating table, made
from 16 different species of wood, thereby allowing guests
to whimsically decree which particular segment they would
dine on, and the room is also home to a French pedal harp,
its strings made from animal intestines. Carrying on visitors can view an original mosaic from Pompeii depicting a
slavering hound and a warning to ‘Beware of the Dog’, while
the wooden ceiling of the dining room features 71 coats of
arms belonging to the Polish aristocracy. At the end of the
room, a giant portrait of Teofila, who is said to float down
from her portrait on occasion as a White Lady and stalk
benignly around the grounds.
On your way out don’t pass by the mirror; look straight into
the middle of it, and make a wish instead. Known as the
Morskie Oko (a lake in Zakopane), this mirror is something
of a point of pilgrimage for newlyweds. Last on your tour
of the ground floor is the Hunting Room. Of note are the
interlocked antlers of a pair of a deer, the remains of a
deadly fight in the forests of Kórnik. A host of anthropologi-
cal treasures fill the rest of the room, including Melanesian
masks crafted from human bone and a necklace made from
human teeth. The seashells on display are the collection of
Zamoyski who planned to use them to build a subterranean
chapel - a plan abandoned after his death. Walking up the
stairs a huge hall designed to mimic the Alhambra contains
Tytus’s collection of military weaponry, from the uniforms of
winged hussars, to five metre lances. Other curios include
two handed battleaxes, lances from the 15th century and
a 16th century Spanish chest. Used to store valuables this
13 lock monstrosity can be viewed as being the precursor
to the safe. From there on you’ll find a dizzying arrange of
personal effects, from Napoleon’s spoon to military medals
and even a death cast taken of Jan Działyński’s hand - a
supreme example of the sepulchral art of the day.
Kórnik is also an important seat of academia, and the
library found inside the castle rates as one of top five in
Poland. Founded by Tytus Działyński in 1828 it boasts over
400,000 tomes, including approximately 30,000 books
over 150 years old. The prize possession is the Order of
Benedict, a 9th century manuscript which is the oldest in
Poland. Since 1953 it has operated as part of the National
Library of Poland, with an onus on science, and you’ll find
many of the more interesting books frequently put out on
public display; available for view on our visit were a map
from 1482, a first edition of Copernicus’ defining work, De
Revolutionobis and a 16th century bible penned in twelve
tongues. Although the library suffered looting courtesy of the
Nazi forces the castle itself was saved from an ignoble end
by the sharp wits of a curator; keep your eyes to the ground
by the entrance, close to the Zamoyski’s study; it’s here
you’ll spot a tile arrangement vaguely resembling a swastika;
this was pointed out to a group of visiting German officers
as a sure sign of Nazi supremacy, and they left peacefully
satisfied in the knowledge that Kórnik was German enough
to be saved from destruction.QOpen 10.00 - 17.00. Closed
Mon. Admission 12/7zł, family ticket 28zł. Guided tours up
to 35 people 60zł.
The Arboretum
Having toured round the castle don’t make the mistake of
ignoring the arboretum outside. Originally it was our favourite
white lady, Teofila, who founded the gardens, creating a park in
the popular French style with trimmed shrubs, artificial ponds
and stone statues. The garden was completely remodeled
by Tytus Działyński, who expanded the park, imported many
of the trees currently standing and gave it its English look.
Today the fifty hectare site serves as a marvellous walk, with
numerous protected species and trees from as far away as
China. Winding pathways take you round the site, providing
many memorable scenes no matter what season you’re visiting in. Linden trees dating back 350 years line the principal
route, taking you round the various lakes and rivers. Like the
castle, the Arboretum was saved from the ravages of WWII by
a quick thinking member of staff. Alarmed that Soviet soldiers
were chopping down trees for firewood the gardener appealed
to the patriotism of the Soviet commander, declaring that the
forest was also home to the Siberian apple tree. Appalled
by this desecration the commander stopped his troops in
their tracks and the park was saved. Battered by storms
in January 2007, the park has stood the tests and trials of
time, its status confirmed by the presence of the National
Institute of Dendrology.
July - October 2009
83
84
ŁÓDŹ
Łódź In Your Pocket
Your first lesson in Polish.
¯$l
Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most
certainly isn’t. Think of it as
Woodge, and three hundred
years ago a visit here would
have produced the sight of
little more than one man and
his dog. In terms of age Łódź
is one of the youngest cities
in the country, and a direct
product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while Łódź
cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków
a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller
with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and
some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll
find them all inside the current issue of Łódź In Your
Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language
guide to the city.
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
May - August 2009
Karski
One man versus the
Holocaust
At a glance
7KHEHVWRIÒyGŜ
1]á(w tym 7% VAT)
ISSN 1896-1169
Getting there
Łódź lies South East of Poznań and is easily accessed by train. If
you’re travelling from Poznań you’ll need to book a ticket running
to Łódź Kaliska train station, allowing approximately four hours
for journey time. Only a few trains a day run from Poznań, so if
you’re determined to get there then your best bet will be going
via Warsaw. If travelling from the capital you’ll need a ticket to
Łódź Fabryczna station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis
stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers
should only use cabs that are clearly marked. Those taking the
Poznań train will arrive at Łódź Kaliska station, approximately
two kilometres from the centre. Taxis stand outside and you
should pay no more than 15zł to get to the city centre.
Some basics
Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name
of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for
the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800
as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we
know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher
and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the
Russian-controlled city into a manufacturing centre. The first
cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steampowered factory in Poland was officially christened. A massive
influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and
France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s
population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a
matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile
production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time
vast fortunes were made by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years
of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000
Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in
what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto.
Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was
used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale
war-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s
eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest
big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a
rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one
of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an
exciting underground culture.
Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked
by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms:
from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich
industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrian
street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe.
You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our
print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www.
inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura,
for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed
more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t
be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of
150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall
with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not
tell the full story.
Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation
project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the
1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed
in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the
old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed.
Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file
through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at
the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square).
Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural
hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded
around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things
lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen
showings of sports events.
With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius
Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone.
For the more languorous character two electric tramlines
have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the
complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura
remains very much a work in progress; further additions
include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill
into a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel,
as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’s
museum and technological museum.
86
LEISURE
LEISURE
Bowling
Fitness Clubs & Gyms
Outdoor playgrounds
Ośrodek Przywodny Rataje os. Piastowskie 106a
Niku Fitness & Squash ul. Baraniaka 8 (level 2)
Plac Zabaw-Malta Ski K-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 061
(Nowe Miasto-Rataje), tel. 061 871 06 42, www.bowling.poznan.pl. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Thu 15:00 - 23:00, Fri
15:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 6-14zł
per game, 40-70zł per hour.
Casino
Casinos Poland G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36 (Hotel
Polonez), tel. 061 853 06 05, www.casinospl.com.pl/
poznan.php. Five American roulette tables, two black jack,
one Casinos Poland poker table, one mini poker, one poker
plus and over 30 slots. Also with bar and currency exchange
facilities.QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.
Orbis Casino G-4, Pl. Wł. Andersa 1, tel. 061 858 71
81, www.orbiscasino.pl. Poker, black jack, grand poker,
American roulette and slots. Over 70 slots in the salon, with
the gaming room open from 11am to 8am Monday to Sunday.
QOpen 16:00 - 06:00.
Extreme sports
Magnum ul. Witosa 45, tel. 061 848 78 96, www.
strzelnica-magnum.pl. Shooting club whose arsenal
includes Glock's and AK-47's. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 1-8zł to fire a shot.
Toboggon Run (Letni Tor Saneczkowy Malta Ski)
ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 061 878 22 12, www.maltaski.pl.
A twisting 530 metre tobaggon run with speeds eaching
50km/hr plus. You'll be paying 7-9zł for one go. QOpen
12:00 - 21:00.
(Galeria Malta), tel. 061 658 12 15, www.niku.pl. Six
air conditioned squash courts endorsed by the Squash World
Fedeeration as well as whole lot of fitness classes - fat
burning, spinning, yoga, steps and dance. Q Fitness Open
06:30-23:00, Sat 09:00-20;00, Sun 10:00-18:00. Squash
06:30-24:00, Sat 08:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-22:00.
Recreation Center Niku (Centrum Rekreacji Niku)
ul. Piątkowska 200, tel. 061 826 33 66, www.niku.pl.
Some 18 bowling alleys as well as a wellness and spa centre,
squash courts and gym in one of the finest fitness centres
in the region. Classes on offer include steps, spinning, yoga
and dance.Q Fitness Open 07:00-22:00, Sat 09:00-18:00,
Sun 10:00-18:00. Bowling Open 09:00-24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00-02:00, Sun 09:00-24:00.
Flying
OSL Oborniki ul. Wybudowanie 129 (Oborniki), tel. 0 501
13 36 62, www.osl-oborniki.info. The local flying club, with machines on offer ranging from microlights and gliders to contraptions
of a larger nature. Q Depends on the weather. 6-8zł per minute.
Go-carting
Worldkar ts ul. Bolesława Kr zy woustego 72,
(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 872 01 97, w w w.worldkar ts.com. Poznań's premier Go Kar ting track wi th
over 2,600 metres of track and car ts for both kids
and adul ts. Q Open 14:00 - 00:00, Fri 14:00 - 01:30,
Sat 10:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Admission 3250zł per 12min.
878 22 22, www.maltaski.pl. Wooden kids playground with
slides, mazes and obstacles. Q Admission free.
Paintball
Paintball Fort Dębiec ul. 28 czerwca 1956 352, tel. 0
79107 20 10, www.poznan-paintball.pl. Add authenticity
to the paintball experience by killing your mates in a 19th
century military fort. Q Open by prior agreement. 65/43
zł per game.
Trygon ul. Nowowiejskiego 39, tel. 061 839 02 75,
www.trygon-imprezy.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Price by prior agreement.
Golf
Golf Club Bytkowo ul. Pawłowicka 3b (Bytkowo), tel.
061 665 06 56, www.golfclub-bytkowo.pl. 18 hole golf
course with lessons and club hire available for beginners.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:30. Admission
120-150zł.
Mini Golf Malta Ski ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 061 878 22
48, www.maltaski.pl. 18 hole mini golf course overlooking
Lake Malta. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Admission 13-17/11-14zł.
Squash
Centrum Fitness Olymp ul. Smoluchowskiego 15,
tel. 061 661 76 31, www.olymp.org.pl. Gym, sauna and
squash. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:00 - 18:00. Admission 35-55zł.
Swimming
Aquatic D-1, ul. Wroniecka 11a, tel. 061 851 01 71,
www.aquatic-wroniecka.pl. An old town swimming pool
with the unique distinction of formerly being a pre-war
synagogue. QOpen 07:15 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun
08:00 - 17:00. Tickets 12/8zł.
Wellness
Niku ul. Piątkowska 200 (Galeria Malta), www.niku.pl.
Bowling, wellness and spa, squash courts and gym in one of
the finest fitness centres in the region.
Spa & Beauty
CitiSPA C-3, ul. Długa 4, tel. 061 667 54 45, www.
citispa.pl. Upmarket treatments for both men and women
including massage, steam bath and cosmetic pampering
Samui Hair Beauty F-3, ul. Libelta 14a, tel. 061 853 43
99, samui-spa.pl. Beauty treatment with an Oriental twist.
Treatments include traditional Thai massage, permanent
make-up and hair styling. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00
Spalarnia ul. Czarnieckiego 56 (Puszczykowo Stare),
tel. 0 728 49 99 88. The ultimate pampering experience
includes massage with bamboo sticks and coconuts,
and they’re also one of the few venues to offer what
known as ‘Kinesiology Taping’. Private spa, also.QOpen
09:00 - 23:00.
Zoos
Chilean Flamingo in New Zoo
Kwolana
New Zoo (Nowe Zoo) ul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. 061 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl.
The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in
1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over
2,000 animals representing 140 species, it’s comprised
of 60 per cent pine and mixed forests with an artificialycreated creek and string of ponds running through the
grounds. This way, the creatures live in recreations of their
natural habitats rather than inhumane concrete pens. A
pavilion for nocturnal animals was added in 1995. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Y
Old Zoo (Stare Zoo) E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel.
061 848 08 63, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Poland’s oldest
zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old
pavilions. Beasts occupying the 4.39 hectare zoo include
lions, zebras, giraffes, hippopotami, monkeys and apes. It
officially became a Poznań historical site in 1972. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Y
Meet the locals
As Poland’s fifth biggest city, and one of its oldest, it’s only
sensible to assume a few famous faces have hailed from
these parts. A few need no introduction, take Paul von
Hindenburg for example, the former President of the Weimar
Republic. Other names, however, will have you scratching
your head and staring into space. Take for instance the
marvelously titled Sir Paul Edmund de Strzelecki. This guy
led quite a life, and his story includes being exiled out of
town for trying it on with a fifteen year old girl, and being
the first chap to scale Australia’s highest peak. Aside
from that he was a mate of Florence Nightingale, and also
responsible for discovering gold in Australia. Then there’s
Paul Leonhardt, a German chess genius who died during a
match in 1934. More famous Germans come in the form
of Lothar von Arnauld de la Perière, recognized as the
most successful U-Boat ace ever, with 141 sinkings to his
name. One thoroughly nasty product of Poznań was Arthur
Liebehenschel, who would go on to achieve infamy as commandant of Auschwitz and Majdanek concentration camps.
Justice caught up with him, and he was executed in 1948.
On a less sinister note there’s Lili Palmer, a Poznan born
actress who was once married to all-time heartthrob Rex
Harrison. Moving onto the sporting side, veteran football
forward Maciej Żurawski hails from Poz, while women’s
basketball player Małgorzata Dydek holds the honour of
being the tallest woman to ever compete in the WNBA –
218 cm in case you’re wondering.
July - October 2009
87
88
SHOPPING
Antiques
The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little stores
selling antiques, a quick exploration of the side streets will
reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th century coins
and navigational charts. Do remember when purchasing that
permission will be required if you're planning on taking anything
pre-1945 out of the country - for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the shop, though do check beforehand.
Antykwariat Kolekcjoner (Antique Shop) D-1, ul.
Kramarska 20, tel. 061 853 07 82. Eclectic mix of antiques
with antique Roman coins. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00
Filatelistyka B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 37, tel. 061 853 63
68. Coins and stamps in the courtyard. QOpen 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galeria Michał Skowron D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel.
061 853 01 97, www.galeriaskowron.pl. Classy old furniture. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Horn D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 42, tel. 061 851 56 27. Antiques and an art gallery on the main square. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Books & Paper
Empik C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 667 12
00, www.empik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Ksiegarnia Powszechna (World Bookshop) C-2, ul.
Stary Rynek 63, tel. 061 851 82 07, www.powszechna.
pl. Your one stop shop for intellectual stimulation. A large
bookshop in a prime spot with late opening hours. There
is a wide selection of English-langage books near the back
and to the left on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Flowers
Baccara - Art B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 21, tel. 061 853 71
78. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Kwiaciarnia Lewkonia A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 63, tel. 061
853 78 38. Send flowers to your loved ones through the Euroflorist. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Poczta Kwiatowa , tel. 022 828 95 95, www.pocztakwiatowa.pl. Flowers, fruits and vegetables. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Hypermarkets
Auchan ul. Głogowska 432 (Grunwald-Komorniki), tel.
061 656 86 44, www.auchan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
DIRECTORY
includes parking for some 1,000 vehicles, and can also be
reached by bus number 79. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 19:00.
King Cross Marcelin E-3, ul. Bukowska 156, tel.
061 886 04 02, www.kingcrossmarcelin.com.pl. Over
54,000 square metres of sheer retail joy including a Real
hypermarket and the largest Media Markt in Poland. Other
stores include H&M, Reserved, Rylko and Everlast. Opened
in 2005 access to this relative newbie can be gained by
bus numbers 48, 50, 59 and 77. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Pasaż Rondo J-2, ul. Zamenhofa 133, tel. 061 874
22 90, www.pasazrondo.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
Poznań Plaza ul. Drużbickiego 2 (Piątkowo), tel. 061 664
59 00, www.poznanplaza.pl. Opened in 2005 Poznan Plaza
features 150 retail units in an area spanning some 66,000m2.
Flagship stores include Zara, H&M, Smyk, Mexx, Espirit, Reserved
and Cinema City. To get there from the Rynek take tram number
16. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Stary Browar Shopping Mall G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42,
tel. 061 859 60 50, www.starybrowar.pl. Originally home
to the Huggera Brewery, the building has always cast a huge
influence on the city with beer production hitting 72,000
hectalitres in 1918. Even under German occupation the
building continued to churn out piwo, with production only
ceasing in 1944 when the basement was converted into
bunkers and air-raid shelters.
Heavily damaged in the siege of Poznań the hulk of a building
finally stopped brewing beer in 1980. Stary Browar carried
on operating at a fraction of its capacity producing mineral
water, though it was only in 1998 that it was finally awarded
a new lease of life. Bought by the Fortis group, an original
investment of US$66 million saw the building transformed.
Opened amid much fanfare in November 2003 the shopping
mall now covers an area of over 100,000m2, and draws an
average of 40,000 people daily. With over 210 retail units,
including the Van Graaf designer store, bookshops and Alma
gourmet delicatessen, the complex has become one of the
most talked about developments in the country.
Souvenirs
The streets of Old Town should be your first call for souvenirs,
and it's here you'll find plenty of specialist shops selling products associated with Poland: cut glass, handicrafts from the
mountain regions, lace tableware and ceramics. Best known
of the lot is the nationwide Cepelia chain.
Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Real ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 874 56
00, www.real.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Cepelia D-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. 061 852 58 14,
www.cepelia.pl. A leading chain of souvenir shops selling
native arts and handicrafts. Also at ul. Woźna 12 (H-3; 061
852 07 94) and ul. Ratajczaka 20. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Shopping malls
Speciality
Galeria Malta ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka 8, tel. 061 658 10
Wine Shop G-3, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53,
www.domvikingow.pl. Global wines for purchase at the
back end of the Dom Vikingow complex. QOpen 12:00 18:00.
22, www.galeriamalta.pl. The largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square
metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in
March Malta features a Multikino and fitness club, as well as
a Marks & Spencer, Cottonfield, H&M, Benneton, Tatuum, Pull
& Bear, Vero Moda and Empik. Bus lines 57 and 84 (241 at
night) go right to the door, as do trams number 1, 4, 6, 7 and
17. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
CH Panorama ul. Górecka 30 (Górczyn), tel. 061
650 01 03, www.galeriapanorama.pl. Over 150 stores
including CCC, Triumph, EMPiK, Deichmann, Rossmann and
Atlantic. Going strong for 12 years this 16,500 metre mall
Tax refund
Non-EU residents can claim VAT refunds on purchases made in
shops bearing the Global Refund logo. The only condition is a
minimum outlay of 200zł on your part on the item purchased.
Claim your Global Refund cheque, have it stamped at customs
before claiming your money back at your nearest cash refund
office. For full details check www.globalrefund.com.
Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our directory has many
useful contacts for you. Click on the left for listings.
Remember to email us if you find any of our contacts
paticularly helpful or, for that matter, unhelpful. We also
welcome new additions.
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka Centralna C-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. 061 852
26 25. Q Open 24 hrs.
Apteka Galenica C-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel. 061 852
99 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Business facilities
Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2,
tel. 061 859 05 90, www.dominahotels.pl. Domina
Residence in Poznań will be offering conference facilities for
up to 25 people with multimedia projectors, wifi, cordless
microphones, full speaker system, 3 x 2.5m projector screens
and a 50" plasma screen. For further information please
contact Łukasz Uliszewski at Domina Residence.
Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061
858 70 00, www.orbisonline.pl.
Sheraton Poznan Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel.
061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. A choice of
7 conference rooms ranging from 35 to 210m in size with
videoconferencing and wifi available.
Consulates & Embassies
Czech Republic F-3, ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849
22 92. Honorary consulate, open every day 10:00 -18:00.
Denmark E-5, ul. Strusia 10, tel. 061 866 26 28. Honorary consulate. To contact the consul, call first to arrange
a meeting.
Dentists
Radus C-3, ul. Szymańskiego 7/3, tel. 061 855 12 43,
www.radus.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Genealogy
National Archives B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 41/43, tel. 061
852 46 01, www.poznan.ap.gov.pl.
Language schools
Berlitz G-4, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850 95 95,
www.berlitz.pl.
EMPiK B-1, ul. 27 grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel. 061
851 00 62, www.empik.edu.pl. 30/05 p.r. they have also
division on ul. Św. Marcin 46/50, and ul. Ratajczaka 44
Local government
Poznań City Hall H-3, Pl. Kolegiacki 17, tel. 061 878
52 00, www.poznan.pl. Ryszard Grobelny mayor 061 878
55 06. Department of Information and Development: 61 878
56 95. Department of Culture and Art: 0601 878 54 55. Department of Sports, Recreation and Tourism: 061 878 53 51.
Places of worship
Muslim Culture & Recreation Centre
(Muzułmańskie Centrum Kulturalno-Oświatowe)
ul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Wilda), tel. 0 507 75 43 01, www.
islam.org.pl. Q Services on Fridays at 13:00.
Private clinics
Klinika Grunwaldzka E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel.
061 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl.
Luxmed E-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. 061 845 11 11,
www.luxmed.pl.
Real estate
Ewa Tracz ul. Chełmońskiego 22 (Grunwald), tel. 061
866 21 33. Sale, purchase and hire.
Global Invest ul. Powidzka 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061
879 48 48, www.globalinvestpoland.com.
Mamdom , www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polands largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands
of real estate offers from estate agents, private individuals,
government organisations and companies. Every single
offer has at least one image and the descriptions are all
translated into English by a native speaker, not a computer.
You can choose to deal directly with the sellers (who often
speak English) or make use of interpretors, drivers, and
other services. Mamdom charges no commission on any
property purchases.
Relocation companies
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23,
Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www.
corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent storage facilities and relocations to and within Europe. Office and
local moves also handled. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Universal Express Worldwide Movers C-3, ul.
Ogrodowa 9, tel. 061 896 15 02, www.uer.pl. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
July - October 2009
89
NH Poznań
Fusion
Cinnamon
Domina
Residence
Brovaria
Stare Miasto
Frolic
Goats
Sheraton
Poznan
NH Poznań
Blow Up
Hall
96
STREET REGISTER
23 Lutego
B/C-1
27 Grudnia
B-2
3 Maja
B-1/2
Al. Armii Poznań
G-1/2
Al. Cytadelowiczów
G-1
Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2
Al. Niepodległości
A-1/3
Al. Republik
H-1
Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2
Barzyńskiego
E/F-2
Bastionowa
G-1
Berdychowo
I-4
Bnińska
K-2/3
Bolesława Krzywoustego
H/I-5
Brandstaettera
H-1
Bukowska
E-3/4
Bydgoska
J-2/3
Cegielskiego
H-4
Chopina
F-2/3
Chwiałkowskiego
F/G-5
Cicha
F/G-2
Czartoria
H/I-3
Długa
C/D-3
Dominikańska
D-1
Dożynkowa
G-1
Droga Dębińska
H-5
Drzewna
F-4/5
Drzymały
E/F-1
Dworcowa
E/F-4
Działowa
G-2
Działyńskich
B-1
Dziekańska
I-2/3
Ewangelicka
H-3/H/I-4
Filipińska
I/J-3
Franciszkańska
C-2
Fredry
A-1/2
Gajowa
E-3
Garbary
D-1/2
Garncarska
A-2
gen. Dąbrowskiego
E-3
gen. Maczka
F-1
Głogowska
E-4/5
Główna
J-1/2/K-1
Gołębia
C/D-2
Góra Przemysła
C-1/2
Górna Wilda
F/G-5
Graniczna
E-5
Grobla
D-2
Grochowe Łąki
G-2/3
Grudzieniec
E/F-2
Grunwaldzka
E-3/4
Gwarna
A-2
Inflancka
K-5
Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4
Jaskółcza
C-2
Jeżycka
E-2
Kaliska
J-4
Kanałowa
E-5
Kantaka
B-2
kard. Wyszyńskiego
I-3
Katowicka
J-4/5
Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4
Klasztorna
D-2
Kochanowskiego
E-2/3
Kopernika
G-4
Koronkarska
J-2
Kościuszki
A/B-1/2/3
Kozia
C/D-2
Kórnicka
I-4/5/I/J-5
Krakowska
G-4
Kramarska
C/D-1
Krasińskiego
E/F-3
Kraszewskiego
E-3
Królowej Jadwigi
G-4/5
Krysiewicza
C-3
ks. Posadzego
I-3
ks. Wujka
F-5
Księcia Józefa
G-2
Ku Cytadeli
H-2
Kurpiowska
F-2
Kurza Noga
C-2
Kwiatowa
G-4
Libelta
A/B-1
Lubrańskiego
I-2/3
Ludgardy
C-2
Łady
E-2
Łaskarza
J-3
Łazienna
H-3/4
Łąkowa
G-4
Łucznicza
I-5
Majakowskiego
J/K-4
Małachowskiego
J-2
Małe Garbary
D-1
Małeckiego
E-5
Małopolska
E-1
Mansfelda
E-2/3
Mariacka
K-1
Masztalarska
C-1
Mazowiecka
E-1
Mączna
E-2
Mickiewicza
E-3
Mielżyńskiego
B-1
Młyńska
B-1
Mokra
D-1
Mostowa
D-2
Murna
C-2
Muśnickiego
D-3
Mylna
E-2
Na Podgórniku
G/H-2
Na Szańcach
H/I-1
Nad Bogdanką
E-2
Nad Wierzbakiem
E-1
Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5
Noskowskiego
F-2/3
Nowowiejskiego
B-1/2
Ogrodowa
C-3
Ostrów Tumski
I-3
Ostrówek
I-3
Owsiana
F/G-1
Paderewskiego
C-2
Panny Marii
I-2/3
Pasaż Apollo
G-4
Piaskowa
H-3
Piastowska
H-5
Piekary
B-3
Pl. Andersa
G-4
Pl. Wolności
B/C-2
Podgórna
C/D-2/3
Podolska
E-1
LISTINGS INDEX
Podwale
Powstańców
Wielkopolskich
Poznańska
Północna
Półwiejska
Prużańska
Przemysłowa
Przepadek
Przystań
Pszenna
Pułaskiego
Ratajczaka
Ratuszowa
Roosevelta
Rybaki
Rynkowa
Serafitek
Sienkiewicza
Sieroca
Składowa
Skośna
Sochaczewska
Sokoła
Solna
Sowia
Spadzista
Stary Rynek
Stawna
Strusia
Strzałkowskiego
Strzałowa
Strzelecka
Szelągowska
Szewska
Szkolna
Szymańskiego
Śląska
Ślusarska
Śródka
św. Czesława
św. Jacka
J-2/3
A-3
E-2
H-2
C-3
K-5
F-5
G-2
I-4
G-1
F-2
B-2/3
C-2
E/F-3
C-3
C-1/2
I-4/5
E-3
C-2
A-3
F-3
F-1
E-1
G-3
J-5
G-5
C/D-2
D-1
E-5
E-2/3
C-3
C-3
I-1
D-1
C-2
C-3
E-1
D-2
I/J-3
F/G-5
I-3
św. Marcin
A/B-2/3
św. Marii Magdaleny D-3
św. Michała
J/K-3
św. Wawrzyńca
E-2
św. Wojciech
G-3
Święcickiego
E-4
Świętojańska
J-3
Świętosławska
D-2
Święty Marcin
F/G-3
Taczaka
A/B-3
Taylora
A-2/3
Topolowa
H/I-3
Warszawska
J-3
Wąska
E-2
Wenecjańska
H-3
Weteranów
I-5
Wielka
D-2
Wieniawskiego
A-1
Wierzbięcice
F-5
Wierzbowa
H-4
Wieżowa
I-3
Winogrady
G-1
Wodna
D-2
Wojska Polskiego
E-1
Wolnica
C-1
Wołyńska
E-1
Woźna
D-2
Wrocławska
C-2
Wroniecka
D-1
Wszystkich Świętych D-3
Wysoka
B/C-3
Za Bramką
D-3
Za Cytadelą
G/H-1
Zachodnia
E-4/5
Zagórze
I-3
Zamkowa
C-1
Zdrojowa
K-3
Zeylanda
E-3
Zielona
D-3
Żniwna
G-1
Żydowska
D-1
Alex Webber
Academic Pub
54
Adalbertus
78
Agawa
54
Alexander
40
Ali Baba
40, 48
Applied Arts Museum
69
Aquatic
87
Archdiocese Museum
69
Archeological Museum
69
Artemis
39
Astra
30
Atelier of Józef Ignacy
Kraszewski
69
Atmosfera
52
AWO
78
Azalia
37
Bamberka
48
Barcode
54
Batory
35
Bażanciarnia
38
Bee
62
Bee Jay's
40, 54
Behemot
52
Bernardino Ristorante
44
Biskupin
76
Blow Up Hall
26, 49, 54
Blueberry bar
54
Blue Note Jazz Club
54
Bodega Cafe
54
Bogota
54
Brogans Irish Pub
54
Brovaria
26, 40, 54
Browar Pub
54
Buddha Bar
39, 54
By The Way Hostel
34
Cacao Republika
52
Cactus Factoria
55
Cafe Bordo
52
Café Plotka
55
Cafe Sekret
52
Caffe Ławka
52
Campanile
30
Canappka
48
Casinos Poland
86
Cathedral
67
Celtic
55
Centrum Fitness Olymp
87
Česká Hospoda
37
Cinnamon
34
Citadel Park
74
CitiSPA
87
City Information Centre
72
City Park Residence
26
Cocorico
52
Corcovado
41
Corner Pub
55
Corpus Christi Church
67
Coxy's
55
Cuba Libre
62
Cute
62
Cymes
47
Czarna Owca
62
Czekolada
52, 62
Czerwone Sombrero
47
Czerwony Fortepian
55
Da Luigi
44
Dark Restaurant
41
Déja Vu Café
55
Delicja
35, 38
Derby
30
Deserovnia
41, 56
Domina Poznań Residence 27
Dominican Church
67
Dom Vikingów
38
Dorrian
30
Dracula Pub
79
Dragon
56
Dramat
49
Dwór w Podstolicach
35
Emforiu
62
Environment Museum
69
Eskulap
56
Estadio Sports Bar &
Restaurant
56
Estella
48
Euro Hotel Swarzędz
36
Fancy House
34
Fashion Cafe
56
F.B.I Poznan
56
Feniks
30
Fever
57
Figaro
38
Filigrando Cafe & Lunch
52
Fontanna Czekolady
57
Fort Colomb
57
Franciscan Church
67
Frolic Goats Hostel
35
Fusion Hostel
35
Fusion Restaurant
39, 41
Gaja
30
Getting there
82
Gewert
78
Girasole
44
Glob-Tour
72
Gold
33
Golf Club Bytkowo
87
Green Hotel
36
Gromada
30
Henlex
31
Historical Museum of Poznań 70
Holy Trinity Church
80
Hostel Poznań
35
Hotel 222
31
Hot_elarnia
36
Hotel Księcia Józefa
33
Hotel Pietrak
79
Hotel System Premium
31
Hotel Włoski
31
HP Park
27
IBB Andersia Hotel
27
Ibis
31
Ikar
31
Imaret
41
In Flagranti
42, 57
IQ
62
Johnny Rocker
57
June 1956 Poznań Uprising
Museum
70
Kamea
57
Kawka
52
KFC
48
Kisielice
57
Klepsydra
58
Klub 65
37
Klub Charyzma
62
Klub Galeria Shisha
58
Klub Zak
58
Kórnik
82
Kórnik Castle
83
Kresowa
49
Kruszwica
76
Kultowa
58
Kyokai Sushi Bar
46
La Rambla Tapas Bar i Wino 58
La Scala
44
Le Bistrot
42
Lech
32, 78
74
Le Palais du Jardin
38
Literary Museum of Henryk
Sienkiewicz
70
Lizard King
42, 58
Lobby Bar
58
Lokanta
42
Londoner Pub
59
Madagaskar
42
Magnum
86
Malibu Bar
59
Markowa Knajpka
49
Massimiliano Ferre
44
Mat's
28
McDonald's
48
Medical Vocational School
Boarding House
78
Mercure Poznań
28
Meridian
32
Metropolitan Club
63
Mielzynski Wine Bar
59
Milano Ristorante
46
Military Weapon Museum
71
Mini Golf Malta Ski
87
Mini Hotelik
33
Młyńskie Koło
32, 49
Mollini
46
Mood
42, 59
Mosaica
42
Motoring Museum
71
Muchos Patatos
59
Museum of Gniezno
Archdiocese
80
Musical Instruments Museum
71
Alex Webber
July - October 2009
97
98
LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX
Naramowice
33
National Museum
71
New Zoo
87
NH Poznań
28
Niku
87
Niku Fitness & Squash
86
Niku Restauracja
37
Novotel Poznań Centrum
28
Novotel Poznań Malta
28
Oaza
49
Old Town Hall
74
Old Zoo
87
Olimpia
32
Orbis Casino
86
OSL Oborniki
86
Ośrodek Przywodny Rataje 86
Ossowski
36
Ostrów Lednicki
76
Paintball Fort Dębiec
87
Pałac Wasowo
36
Panorama
38
Papavero
43
Parish Church of St. Stanislaus
67
Patio
39
Pekin
37
Pharmaceutical Museum
71
Piano Bar
59
Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe 46
Pietrak
78
Pireus
39
Piwnica 21
60
Pizza Hut
48
Pizzeria Rozmaitości
46
Plac Zabaw-Malta Ski
87
Pod Aniołem
50
Pod Dzwonkiem
50
Pod Koziołkami
50
Pod Minogą
60
Pod Pretekstem
53
Pod Złotą Jabłonią
50
Polonez
32
Pomarańcza
53
Pomorski
34
Post Dali
60
Post-Office Cafe
53
Pożegnanie z Afryką
52
Poznań Army Museum
72
Poznan Bamber Museum
72
Poznań Model
74
Pracownia
39
Prisoner of War Camps
Museum
70
PRL
60
Proletaryat
60
Pub
79
Pub Cafe
80
Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe 60
Ratuszova
50
Ratuszowa
79
Ready's
79
Recreation Center Niku
86
Red Eric Cafe
63
Red Erik Café
53
Reeta's Haveli
40
Residence & Workshop of
Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna
72
Restauracja Polska
79
Restauracja Zapadnia
43
Restaurant de Rome
43
Rezydencja Solei
32
Ristorante Italiano
79
Rodeo Drive
37
Room 55
43, 61
Rooster
37
Roti
48
Royal
28
Rzymianka
43
Rzymski
32
Sakana Sushi Bar
46
Sami Swoi
61
Samui Hair Beauty
87
Sansibar
63
Sarp
61
Shark
61
Sheraton Poznań Hotel
29
Sioux City
37, 48
Sioux Classic
37
Soho
53
Sól i Pieprz
43
SomePlace Else
37, 61
Sonata
43
Spagetheria
48
Spalarnia
87
Sphinx
48, 79
Sport Hotel
34
SQ
63
Stacja Cafe
53
St. Adalbert`s Church
68
Stare Miasto
29
St. Francis of Assissi Church 68
St. John of Jerusalem Church 68
St. Joseph`s Church
68
St. Martin`s Church
68
Strzelno
76
Sushi 77
46
Sushi Sekai
46
Tapas
63
Tapas Bar
51
Taste Barcelona
51
Tawerna Grecka Mykonos 39
Terytorium
63
The Arboretum
83
The Castle
75
The Dubliner
61
The Fire Place Lounge
61
The Gniezno Cathedral
81
The Mexican
47
The Museum of the Origins of
the Polish State
80
The Old Town Square
75
Tivoli
48
Toboggon Run (Letni Tor
Saneczkowy Malta Ski)
86
Tokyo Underground
63
Tourist Information Centre
72, 81
Trawiński
29
Trygon
87
Trzemeszno
76
T&T
33
U Honzika
62
Umberto
53
U Mnie Czy u Ciebie
44
Valpolicella
46
Villa Magnolia Ristorante
46
Vivaldi
29
Warung Bali
40
Wejście Obok
44
Wenecja
76
Whisky Bar
62
Wiejskie Jadło
50
Wielkopolska Ethnographic
Museum
72
Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum
73
Wielkopolska Military Museum
73
Wielkopolska Uprising Museum
73
Worldkarts
86
W Starym Kinie
62
Wylatowo
76
W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda 50
Zagroda Bamberska
33, 38
Za Kulisami
62
Zielony Smok
37
Złoty Smok
79
Features index
1956 Uprising
Bazar Hotel
City Card
Climate
Communist Poznań
Eating at a Glance
Enigma
Ghosts
Hindenburg
Ignacy Jan Paderewski
Jewish Poznań
Krsysztof Komeda
Language Smarts
Local Football
Lodgings at a Glance
Lost Poznań
Made in Poland - Maluch
Made in Poland - Syrena
Mail & Phones
Malta
Market Values
Meet the locals
Meteors
Monuments of Poznań
Napoleon’s Poznań
National holidays
Night at a glance
On the trams
Ostrów Tumski
Quick Currency Convertor
Quick Eats
Stary Marych
The Bambergers
The Birth of Poland
The facts
The Goats
The Great Escape
The Polish Dwarf
The Wielkopolska Uprising
Tourist Trails of Poznań
Train smarts
UFOs
What's Hot, What's Not
WWII Poznań
65
68
12
17
6
38
53
51
56
45
69
57
18
74
31
26
58
59
47
15
60
17
87
44
71
73
19
55
27
67
19
48
68
72
80
17
72
70
36
64
8
16
50
34
75

Poznan in Your Pocket

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