Spacerem po Wschowie - wersja angielska 2008

Transkrypt

A stroll around Wschowa
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Text: Jolanta Pawłowska, Barbara Ratajewska
Photographs: Sylwia Szulc, Błażej Witczak, Piotr Dziełakowski, Ireneusz Mieżowiec, Bogusław Świtała
Reproductions of postcards (taken before 1945) – the collection of Wschowa Region Museum
Publisher: the Municipal Council of Wschowa
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Introduction
Wschowa is a small town which has less than 15 thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the borderland
of Lubusz province, on the border of Great Poland and Silesia. It is also the seat of Wschowa County.
Why is Wschowa worth visiting? Because it is one of a few towns in the west of Poland, which has
urban principles of medieval times. There is also a unique (in European scale) old-town evangelical
cemetery, which was founded in 1609. In the modern era it was the first in Poland and one of the
first in Europe realization of Italian ‘Campo Santo’ model. A Baroque St. Joseph the Betrothed
monastery church is really charming as well.
The town has a great past. During the times of the Republic of Poland I Wschowa
was one of the most distinguished royal cities in Poland. Polish rulers gave lots of privileges to
this town and they often visited it. It was in Wschowa where King Kazimierz the Great married
Jadwiga (the princess of Żagań). Moreover, in Saxon times sessions of the Senate took place
in this city. And on 13th February 1706 Saxon-Russian army, commanded by General Johann
Schulenburg, fought in a battle against Swedish army, under the command of General Karl Gustav
Rehnsköld. This battle was one of the biggest battles of Great Northern War III.
The town still has its peculiar charm which can be used to promote its touristic advantages.
It requires investing in the development of infrastructure what could succeed with time.
Since World War II a few tourist guidebooks, presenting Wschowa and its region, have been
published. However, this publication concerns only the town. It presents a specific tourist route
which should make it easy to visit Wschowa. We have shown a lot of tourist groups around
Wschowa recently. And we have tried not only to focus their attention on the most important
sights of the town, but also to present the most interesting parts of its history. And consequently,
at that time, we decided to create the tourist route.
The guide book consists of the following parts: introduction, an outline of Wschowa’s history,
a review of the tourist route, pictures of old Wschowa, a map of the town, a list of tourist accommodation and catering and bibliography (at the end). The pictures presented in the guide were taken
by Sylwia Szulc, Błażej Witczak, Piotr Dziełakowski, Ireneusz Mieżowiec and Bogusław Świtała.
And postcards of old Wschowa are in the collection of Wschowa Region Museum. Promotion and
Development Office, thus, prepared the map of the town and marked the tourist route on it.
While describing particular historic places we intentionally concentrated not so much on
their architecture but on their history. Since we decided that such a way of presentation would be
more fascinating.
By giving the guidebook into our readers’ hands we wished it encouraged them to visit our royal city.
Jolanta Pawłowska
Barbara Ratajewska
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An outline of Wschowa history
The origins of the town are unknown. It is known, however, that in the XII century there was a castle, around
which a settlement was established. And it is rather impossible to find the precise date of granting a town character.
But in the second part of the XIII century Wschowa was
chartered according to the Magdeburg law.
During the province separation Wschowa Region, which
is situated on the border of Great Poland and Silesia, was
a disputed area between the rulers of the provinces. This
competition was finally finished by King Kazimierz the Great,
who in August 1343 fought against Głogów-Żagań Prince
- Henry V and, as a result, won the town and incorporated
it into Polish Kingdom. And the legal situation (established
in 1343) by King Kazimierz the Great continued for the
next 450 years – until January 1793.
Wschowa played an important role during the times
of the 1st Republic of Poland. And the town was really
able, from the very beginning of existence, to use its
abilities of development. Wschowa’s economy was mainly
based on craft and trade – clothing and milling in particular. And the
clothing guild was the strongest in town. In 1385 Hanzeat Union undertook to sell the cloth
(from Wschowa) in Russia (e.g. in Great Nowogród) equally with the Dutch sellers. Then, since
1493, the clothing made in Wschowa possessed protection marks (not only seals with the town
emblem, but also a royal stamp - as
a proof of its good quality). The
importance of the clothing guild
was also confirmed by the number
of its members. According to data
from 1628 there were 204 men
producing clothing and 25 men
producing linen out of 578 craftsmen. Consequently, Wschowa was
one of the most significant centres
of clothing in Poland. What is
more, the first dyeing manufacture
was established in Wschowa in the
first part of the XVII century. It
was owned by an Italian – Nicolo
Bacaralli – who had settled in the
town. In the XVIII century the
situation was similar; there were
144 men producing clothing out
of 584 craftsmen. And just before
the town was overtaken by Prussia
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there had been 200 men producing
clothing and 45 men producing linen.
Another branch of industry in Wschowa
was milling. However, the clothing and
the milling were not the only examples
of the craft. In 1635, for instance, there
were 476 craftsmen of 38 different
types. And in the XVIII century the
number increased. According to data
form 1781 Wschowa’s guilds gathered
584 craftsmen representing 51 jobs.
Wschowa was also an important mint
centre. There were two mints: the town
mint (closed in 1728) and a royal mint
(1588-1662). It was also in Wschowa
where Andrzej Tymf, who created a coin,
called ‘tymf’, lived (c. 1651).
Polish rulers often visited Wschowa. The
first king to do it was Kazimierz the Great.
He married, probably in February 1365,
Princess Jadwiga (the daughter of Głogów-Żagań prince - Henry V) there.
And in 1416 king Władysław Jagiełło had in Wschowa a meeting
with Wilhelm – a margrave of Miśnia. The next ruler to visit
Wschowa was king Kazimierz Jagiellończyk, who spent
there a couple of days in the middle of May 1462.
In addition, in 1539 king Zygmunt I graced the town
with his presence. It was mentioned in the introduction of Wschowa’s monastery chronicles. The best
known, however, were the visits of Saxon dynasty
of Wettins: August II and August III, his son.
In Saxon times sessions of Senate took place in
Wschowa and foreign envoys were invited. The
first session was organised in 1699. In December
1717 August II visited Wschowa and he stayed
there for four weeks. Next time he came here in
1728. August III, who was the son and the heir
of August II, also summoned Senate in Wschowa.
In July 1737, during Senate session, Turkish
envoys were granted an audience and a concordat
with Vatican was signed, which regulated activities
of abbeys. Another session of Senate took place
in Wschowa in 1742. And in 1755 the session
of Senate was really ceremonial and Turkish envoys
were invited again.
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The importance of Wschowa during the times of Republic of Poland I was proved by the status
it had among other royal cities. According to data from 1458 Wschowa was ranked as a II category
city and it was to prepare 20 men-at-arms. In Great Poland, for instance, only Poznan was a city of
the I category. And as far as an act of second-main conscription (1520) was concerned, the town
was recognised as a II category. And an act of conscription from 1775 classified only Warsaw as the
I category city and Cracow, Poznan and Wschowa as cities of the II category.
In January 1793, as a result of the second Partition of Poland, Wschowa region became a part
of Southern Prussia province in Prussia. In Napoleonian times the town belonged to the Duchy of
Warsaw (1807-1815). And in 1815 Prussians again occupied Wschowa. The rebirth of Poland
after World War I did not change the situation of the town. Admittedly, there were some preparations connected with the Great Poland Uprising but insurrectionary actions took place in Wschowa
region. In June 1919 the Treaty of Versailles decided that Wschowa should stay in German
country. At the beginning, it joined Poznan-Western Prussia March but in 1938 it was incorporated
into Lower Silesia. And since the XIX century Wschowa became a more and
more provincial town on the border of Germany. And unfortunately, even
some new investments and companies, such as a new railway to Głogów
(1857) and to Sława (1913), a clothing factory (1843) and a sugar
factory (1882), did not bring about an economic boom.
The defeat of Germany during World War II and the changes caused
by that fact resulted in Wschowa’s re-joining Poland. In 1945,
after 152 years of German nationality, the town came back to
Poland. On 1st February 1945 Soviet army entered Wschowa
and in April Polish administration was formed. Roman Jur
became the first post-war starost of the town and Ludwik
Owczarski was the first post-war mayor. New citizens
of Wschowa were people from different parts of
Poland, mainly from the former Eastern borderlands. Those people have created the present
history of the town and for many of them it has
become the real “little homeland”.
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We advise to start doing sightseeing of Wschowa on the town square. It is the place where the town’s
life have concentrated for centuries. Breathtaking historic tenements used to be built there and some fairs
were often organised. Lots of interesting events took place there, such as visits of Polish rulers and
sessions of Senate. It was the place where the political flower of the Republic of Poland used to meet.
Let our imaginary bring us back to
years 1737 and 1755, when Turkish
envoys (from faraway Otoman Porta
in Turkey) were granted an audience in Wschowa by king August
III during the session of Senate.
Unfortunately, there is no longer
an eastern frontage on the square
since it was burnt in 1945 when the
Soviet army entered the town.
The Town Hall is the central part
of the square and it is the seat of
town authorities. The building was
mentioned for the first time in 1435.
The notice concerned a big fire of
the town and the town hall was one
of very few buildings to be saved.
It is certain that the town hall had
existed a long time earlier, however source texts did not mention it. Additionally, the next big fire of
Wschowa (7th June 1529) did not save the building of the town hall and it took dozens of years to
rebuild it. The renovation started in 1556 and it finished in 1612. And at that time a clock was put in
on the tower and a lower storey was adapted for a chemist’s flat. But during another fire of Wschowa
(1644) the town hall was probably damaged again. Dozens of years
later, in 1685, the building went up in flames and had to be
rebuilt again. In the first part of the XVIII century, because
of frequent visits of kings (August II and August III) as well
as sessions of Senate, a big board room was created. This
board room was, thanks to an outside gallery, connected
to historic tenements of the western frontage of the square,
where a royal residence was placed. The present town
hall comes from the renovation which took place between
1860 and 1870. It has a neo-Roman style. It has three
storeys, it is a brick building and it has a rectangular base.
The tower is placed in the north-west corner. The lower
part of it is square but the higher storeys are octangular.
The top of it is surrounded by a little gallery. In the northeast corner of the town hall, on the ground floor, there is
a room which is covered with an elaborated net vault dating
back to the first half of the XVI century (a Gothic room).
Another thing worth mentioning is the emblem of Wschowa,
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which is placed on the frontage of the town
hall. It presents the moment of coronation
of Blessed Virgin Mary. Below it there is
a Jagiełło double cross with two rings. It was
probably introduced in the XV century
as the next element of the emblem and finally,
it replaced the scene of the coronation.
Next, we go to the western frontage of the
square. We can find there several Baroque
tenement buildings from the XVII century.
It was the place where in the Saxon
times a royal residence was created. In order
to do it the lower storeys of the tenements
were taken and joined together to form passageways. A description of the residence was
preserved in he chronicles of Observants:
‘From the parish church there was a room for
military guards, a room for senators’ meetings,
a room for audience, a bedroom of His
Majesty, dining-rooms for dinners and suppers
and finally, a royal office.’
Let’s go now to the last tenement of the
western frontage (Rynek 13). From Rzeźnica
Street this building has a stone portal with an
ornament of bay leaves and a keystone with
letters AP, a compass and a date: 1677. Then we follow to
the corner of Łaziebna Street and Rzeźnicka Street to find
there a XVIII century town fountain. It is ornamented with
a sculpture of a woman covered in armour. In her right hand
she carries a pennant and her left hand is put on a shield. Some
people treat it as an allegory of Wschowa. At present, there is
a replica of the sculpture in the fountain and the real one is
in the Museum of Wschowa Region.
We go along Łazienna Street and pass a monument dedicated
to victims of XX century totalitarism. Its author is a local artist,
Krzysztof Chruszczewski. Renovated defensive walls are also worth
mentioning. Then, on the corner of Łazienna Street and Ratuszowa
Street there used to be one of the two gates of the town, so called
Głogów Gate, which was dismantled by Prussians.
We go along Ratuszowa Street and then we come back to
the square to enter Royal Square, where we can find three
Renaissance tenements (Plac Zamkowy 3, 5, 7). They
were built in the XVI century and then rebuilt between
1687 and 1689. Two-storey Renaissance facades
crowned with ornamented pilasters and cornices. In
one of the buildings the pastor Waleriusz Herberger,
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the most famous Wschowa’s figure,
used to live. He was called ‘Little
Luthr’ and he was a great Wschowa
patriot. Lauterbach in his work ‘Vita,
fama et fata Valerii Herbergerii’ cited
a piece of his homily: ‘Wschowa is not,
thanks to God, a small backward town;
Wschowa is not a village full of servile
bumpkins. You are free, royal and
privileged citizens.’ How much pride
of being a citizen of Wschowa is there
in those words… And in Herberger’s
old house there is the Museum of
Wschowa Region now. And next to it
there is a seat of the Promotion and
Development Office.
We go past the Renaissance tenements and through a passage, which used to be a gate, we
go out of the old town to past the defensive walls. They were built of stones and bricks on
a base similar to a circle. The height of their remains is between 2 and 4 metres. They started to
build the walls in times of king Kazimierz the Great and finished at the end of the XV century.
Throughout the XVI and XVII centuries they were rebuilt and strengthened. Wschowa’s fortifications consisted of three parts: walls, a moat and ground embankments. There were to gates
leading into the town (Polish Gate and Głogów Gate) and a couple of smaller gates. In the XIX
century the walls were partly dismantled. Now we can find the oldest
part of the fortification next to the
old starost’s castle. The main role of
the defensive walls was to defense
and, it should be stated that, they
succeeded a couple of times. For
example, when Głogów prince
Henry VII Rumpold attacked the
town in 1383 or when Żagań prince
John invaded Wschowa in 1474.
This invasion was described by
Joneman: ‘… on 20 th March 1474
he surrounded the town and the castle (…) and he decided to attack
the hardest he could but the knights
of this land together with its citizens
were even stronger, (…) that is why
he decided to take revenge on the
outskirts and villages of the town,
and he allowed his army to rob and
steal, and over 60 villages were set
on fire (…).’
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We start our visit from a place where in the past
there was a starost’s castle. The castle was built in the
place where there used to be the very first town on
an artificial hill. It was also a part of the fortification.
There was a moat on one side and a bridge over it.
In the first half of the XIX century Prussians dismantled
old parts of the castle they built some new parts.
Then they were used as a prison. There is a known
case when there was a rebellion of townsmen under
the command of a clothing master, Daniel Cybon, who
was said to be a godson of the future king, John III
Sobieski. It probably started in 1677 and the townsmen demanded their privileges to be respected. They
also wanted to know what the financial situation of the
town was. Town authorities were kept closed in the
town hall. People who were in favour of the authorities
asked starost Rafał Leszczyński for help. Cybon and
a couple of other townsmen were arrested and sent to
prison in the castle. After a short time the starost came
to the town to judge the guilty of the rebellion. Cybon’s followers tried to defend him and there
was even a chance of a siege. Finally, Cybon was sentenced to a death penalty and he was killed
on the courtyard of the castle.
We continue our trip around Wschowa and we go past the fortifications and, so called,
‘a backstreet of an executioner’.
We approach the corner of Kilińkiego Street and Powstańców Wielkopolskich Street and we
find there an old evangelical church called ‘ Kripplein
Christi’. This is a set of buildings i.e. an old church,
a tower, a school and a vicar’s building. It was created in Wschowa because of the counter-reformation.
And in 1600 a parish priest, Grzembski, asked
officially to give back the church which was used by
Wschowa’s Protestants since circa 1552. However,
for only four years the town was the owner of the
church and on 24th December 1604 the church
became a Catholic church. As a consequence,
Wschowa’s Protestants were forced to build another
church. It was even more difficult since a planning
permission, as it was described in Hugo Moritz’s
work about reformation and counter-reformation, the
permission required to build a church within a month
and it was supposed to be placed partly within the
borders of the town. However, the necessary preparations had been overtaken a long time earlier. The
minister of the evangelical district at that time was
Waleriusz Herberger. And in November 1604 the
Town Council bought two buildings near the Polish
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Gate (from George Schwan and Goerge Menzel). It cost circa 700-800 Polish Marks and
the repayment was divided into instalments. There was a committee set to coordinate both,
the building and the money collection (679 Polish Marks were collected). And Hans Grantz,
a builder from Osowa Sień, was responsible for the adaptation of those buildings. Then, on
24th December, on Christmas Eve, 1604 they officially moved to their new church. Minister
Herberger, in order to commemorate that date, called the church Christ’s Cradle (‘Kripplein
Christi’ in German). At this name was a reason of calling ‘kryple’ all Lutheran churches in Great
Poland at that time. The Lutheran church in Wschowa was damaged twice by the fire, in 1644
and 1685. After the second fire it took three years to renovate it. The roof was changed into
one lean-to roof then and pillars were renovated. This church was built on the base of a rectangle
with a high lean-to roof. At the top there are some shallow recesses of a double-arc motif. In the
inner recess there is a low relief presenting the Crucifixion of Christ. Inside there are three storeys
(dating back to the second half of the XVII century), a Baroque music choir (the XVIII century)
and Renaissance stalls (the XVII century). The interior is covered with a wooden ceiling based on
Corinthian columns. On eastern and northern sides there are annexes. The old tower of the Polish
Gate was adapted as a belfry. It is a three-storey stone and brick building. In the XIX century yet
another storey was added and it was covered with a cupola. There
is a story connected with the tower concerning the conflict of
the townsmen and authorities in 1523. Wschowa’s Magistrate
was accused of using public funds in private needs. Joneman
wrote: ‘a contemporary mayor, John Behme, was imprisoned in the tower of the Polish Gate and released on bail’.
There is a building of an old evangelic school next to the
tower. The building was bought in 1607 from a shoemaker, George Herberg. There is still a Latin sentence
on the frontage: ‘FUNDAMENTUM REI REPUBLICAE
RECTA ADOLESCENTIUM EDUCATIO’ (‘Proper
upbringing of the youth is the foundation of the Republic
of Poland’).
‘Kripplein Christi’ church existed until 1945 when,
as a result of the defeat of Germany after World War
II, came back to Poland. A total change of people
took place and Germans had to leave the town. New
citizens were mostly Catholics so the un-used church
became more and more devastated. During excavations,
conducted by students of Architecture and Urban
Studies from Wroclaw Technical University, a grave
crypt was discovered. It was a crypt of Zofia
Ujejska, the wife of Hieronim Radomicki, a satrost
of Wschowa between 1622 and1646. She was
an ardent Lutheran, who took part in masses in
that church but at the age of 36 she died.
We go out of the church and go along
a former promenade towards the parish church.
The promenade was a favourite place for walks
of pre-war citizens of Wschowa. It was placed on former
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embankments after the XIX century Prussians had
dismantled some of the town fortifications. There is
a fountain with a sculpture of a boy playing the flute
but in the mid-war times the sculpture presented
a German soldier. It commemorated all soldiers
of Wschowa garrison who had been killed during
World War II.
Then we go to Parish Square. There is St. Stanisław
the Bishop and the Assumption parish church. The
German name of Wschowa, ‘Fraustadt’ (i.e. the town
of a Lady) was strictly connected with the name of
Blessed Virgin Mary. A huge 68-metre high tower
of the church rises over the town. And according
to Grażyna Wróblewska the tower was a part of
fortifications and defence. The first time this parish
was mentioned in 1326 because its priest, Jordan,
who was a witness. However, it is sure that both
the parish and the church had existed much earlier.
There were several fires which destroyed the church
(e.g. in 1435 and 1529). After the second fire
it was rebuilt thanks to generosity and efforts of a
Wroclaw canon Mateusz Lamprecht, who came from
a rich bourgeois family in Wschowa. The renovation lasted for dozens of years and, in the time of
Reformation, it was overtaken by Protestants. However, on 24th December 1604 it was given
back to Catholics. During the great fire of Wschowa in 1685 it burnt down again and a small
catholic parish was unable to cope with its renovation. Luckily, in 1717 the magistrate decided
to subsidize a part of it. The renovation took place between 1720 and 1726 and it was based
on a design of a famous Italian architect, Pompeo Ferrari. And it has remained in such a form until
present times. It is a three-nave Baroque basilica with some remaining Gothic parts. Its interior
is Baroque and comes from the XVIII century. The main alter presents a picture of Blessed Virgin
Mary, which, in fact, is thought to be the best preserved masterpiece in Wschowa. The author
of the painting was Szymon Czechowicz. Additionally, there is one more painting in the main
alter-it is an oval painting which presents St. Stanisław the Archbishop. On the western wall of
the southern aisle there is a XVIII-century painting of the panorama of Wschowa and the most
significant architecture sights were marked on it. There is also a commemorative plaque in honour
of priest Józef Rogaliński. He was probably the priest of that parish between 1777 and 1787.
However, he was not only a priest but also a scholar. Rogaliński wrote the first textbook for
physics.
Near the church, on the square at number 3, there is a building of a former Jesuit College.
The Jesuits were brought to Wschowa in 1720 by a canon Karol Łodź Poniński. In 1727 they
created a college, where a mint used to be in the past, and after 1750 the building was extended
(to a present shape). The funds were a gift from Maksymilian Mielżyński. It is worth mentioning
that the building was a bone of contention between the town and the catholic parish. And
townsmen did not want it to be given to a catholic parish priest. According to Józef Joneman
priest Poniński was even deeply insulted during one of the gatherings: ‘a show-off baker , called
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Heyder, dared to hit the priest
with a butt’. And it is said that
the priest was to run away to the
church and complained about
it to a Royal Court of Appeal.
The authorities of the town were
afraid that as a consequence
there would be a trial and they
decided to reach an agreement
and, as a result, the town agreed
to subsidy the renovation of the
parish church (destroyed by a
fire in 1685) as well as to give
the mint building to the Jesuit
College. The College existed in
Wschowa until it was closed by
Pope Clemens XIV in 1773.
Then, the building was overtaken by the Commission of National Education. When in January
1793 Wschowa Region became a part of Prussia the building served a military purpose. In 1945,
when Wschowa came back to Poland, the former Jesuit College was used as a Lower Seminary
for several years (1947-1956). It is a brick double-storey building which was built on a base of
a long curved rectangle with two short wings on both sides. It is Baroque but at the same time
there are some remains of Gothic walls. Unfortunately, on 26 May 2006 a fire destroyed a big
part of the building.
We leave the square and move towards St. John’s Square. There is a Welfare House ‘Caritas’
and in front of it there is a figure of St. John Nepomucen. It was put there on 17th April 1732
but, in a highly protestant town, it caused resistance of the townsmen. And that was probably
why king August II sent a letter to the Magistrate in which he advised to stop disturbing or
interfering the ceremony. There is of course a story connected with that figure. So, it is known
that St. John Nepomucen was often placed near bridges. The situation was not different as far
as Wschowa is concerned. There was a Lion Bridge near the
square, on a former moat. And on that bridge there were
some observers of the ceremony. But they were too heavy
and the bridge broke down, and the spectators fell into the
water in the moat. Nobody was hurt but protestant had
a good topic of jokes.
We stay on the square and then we go along Klasztorna
Street towards St. Joseph church, which is cared by the
Franciscans. They are heirs of the Observants’ monastery,
which had a multi-century tradition in Wschowa. And
tourists who visit Wschowa are really impressed by the
church. And it is, undoubtedly, a real pearl among historic
places in Wschowa. St. Francis’s sons – the Observants
(in Polish: Bernardyni)-came to the town in 1457. Then
they were forced to leave it twice. For the first time , they
left Wschowa during Reformation times, when after a fire
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of their monastery Protestant citizens were unwilling to their longer stay. A monastery chronicle
writer noted in 1564: ‘Since the luck was not on our side and the times were reluctant to re-gain,
or rather re-build the monastery, our Fathers gave up their dreams of this place and, after shaking
dust off their feet, they left Wschowa like evangelic pilgrims, leaving all the horror of havoc as
a proof of faithlessness and perversity of citizens of Wschowa’. They came back in 1629. The
second time they had to leave was in 1828 but in 1945 they came back again.
A present late-Renaissance St. Joseph the Betrothed church was built between 1638 and
1644 as a found of Mikołaj Tarnowiecki. Its architect was probably Krzysztof Bonadura the
Older. However, the work connected with finishing
and furnishing as well as the surroundings took much
more time, until the end of the XVIII century. The
tower of the church was built in 1742 in accordance
with its design by Jan Józef Sztyjer, an architect
from Rydzyna. We enter the monastery area via the
main entrance (in Kościuszki Street). There is a church
fair courtyard which was built between 1746 and
1747. The courtyard has two corner chapels which
are connected with an arcade cloister. There is also
a sandstone statue of St. Joseph with Jesus which
was made in 1742. Its benefactor was Franciszek
Koszucki from Dębowa Łęka. Then, on the outside
wall of the chancel there is an epitaph. It is the epitaph of an apostolic trustee, Michał Nieżychowski,
who died in November 1730. We move on to St.
Cross chapel
which was built in 1731by Zygmunt Sucher. Between
1776 and 1778 the chapel was re-built. The main
alter (the benefit of Franciszek Koszucki) has an oak
crucifix (from 1456) which has a really interesting
history presented in the monastery chronicles. During
the fire in 1558 the crucifix was thrown into a big
hole and then covered with lots of debris. It was
found in 1638 when the church was renovated.
And, although it spent 80 years underground, there
was not a single damage on it. And consequently,
it was treated as a miracle. First, it was placed on
the outside wall of the chancel but after the chapel
was built, it was placed there. You can also find
there a Rococo tombstone of Katarzyna Cielecka and
Konstancja Działyńska, her daughter. Next, we go
inside St. Joseph church where we can find lateBaroque and Rococo style. Poli-chrome dates back
to 1745. The vault of the main nave was decorated
with a painter from Głogów called Ernest Engelfeld.
The rest of painting was done by two Observants:
Walenty Żebrowski and Liberiusz Staniszewski.
14
And the present appearance
of the altar comes back to
1746. And the painting which
is placed there (‘Descent from
the Cross’) was founded by
Ludwik Krzycki and it is a replica of Rubens. On the southern
wall of the chancel there is an
enormous painting presenting
‘Pilate’s Judgment of Christ’,
which is a very good replica of
the painting of Łukasz Porębski
from 1626 (which is kept in
Cracow in Corpus Christi
church). A great benefactor
and founder of St. Joseph
church – Mikołaj Tarnowiecki
– died in 1640. The monastery chronicles mentioned: ‘It was not without the poor monks’ grief when the death, which does
not spare anybody, has taken their generous and religious founder, Mikołaj Tarnowiecki’. To
commemorate this great person an epitaph was made, which in fact was one of the first examples
of the XVII century statues. It presents a man who is kneeling in front of the cross.
You can also find there XVIII century epitaphs
of the Gurowscy family (Jadwiga, Ludwika,
Rozalia and Rafał). A grave crypt, which is under
St Cross chapel, is also worth seeing. Both the
chapel and the crypt were built in 1731, thanks
to Father Dąbrowicz, the guardian. The first to be
buried there was a brewer, Mateusz Hoffman (on
25th January 1732). And the monks started to
be buried as late as year 1734. Within a century
(1732-1828) almost 60 people were buried
there. And between 1995 and 1997 a guardian, Father Lesław Szymborski, renovated the
whole crypt in order to visit it by tourists. The
monastery used to be a worship destination until
1828, when the two last monks died, Prussians
closed the monastery. However in 1945 they
came back to Wschowa again.
Let’s leave the monastery in order to visit the
Old-town Evangelic Cemetery, which is in Polna,
Solna and Spokojna Streets. This unique (not
only in Poland but also in Europe) cemetery is
placed in the northern part of the city. It was
founded by minister Waleriusz Herberger 1609,
when evangelic worshippers were made to give
15
up the cemetery near the parish church. And the
place of burial was moved outside the walls of
the town – to an area called Polish Suburb. This
necropolis in Wschowa is an example of a new
kind cemetery, concerning Protestant culture of
the XVI century. And at that time cemeteries
started to be set outside the town walls, which
was simply a break with tradition of setting them
around a church. Its form was connected with
Italian Campo Santo (i.e. a Holly Field). The
place of burial and commemoration was thought
as a garden and quadrate courtyard with cloisters. The walls of the cloisters were then covered
with epitaphs. And the cemetery in Wschowa is
(together with a necropolis in Halle) one of the
oldest ones in modern Europe and the fist Polish
necropolis to follow the medieval Italian type.
The first funeral took place on 25th of February
1609 and it was a funeral of Wschowa mayor’s
(Piotr Deutschlender) wife – Małgorzata. The
cemetery is surrounded by a 2-metre-high wall.
There are three gates and the main entrance is in
the south-east corner and it directly leads into the
oldest (XVII century) part of the necropolis. There
are over 170 XVII and XVIII century epitaphs
on the walls and chapels. And they are an important source of symbols concerning sacral art. In
the XIX century a catholic necropolis was joined
on the west of it, where you can find a classical
funeral home (1819).
Two famous pastors were buried on this cemetery: Waleriusz Herberger and Samuel Fryderyk
Lauterbauch. Their epitaphs are in the oldest
part of the necropolis. Pastor Herberger (born
in 1562) was one of the most famous figures
of Wschowa. He wrote, for example, an evangelic song-book. The pastor was called ‘Little
Luthr’. In May 1627 he died. There is a story
of a linden which had been planted upside
down (with its roots up). And it was to show
Herberger’s innovational science. What is more,
a linden is a kind of a tree which can be regenerated, which could symbolize immortality of
Herberger’s works. The other famous pastor was
Samuel Fryderyk Lauterbach, who was born on
16
30 th October 1662. He was not only
a pastor but also a writer and a historian. Lauterbach was the author of the
following works: ‘Vita, fama et fata
Valerii Hergergerii’ (‘The life, fame
and history of Waleriusz Herberger’),
‘Frauständtisches Zion’ (‘The Zion
of Wschowa’), ‘Kleine Fraustädtische
Pest-Chronica’ (‘A little Chronicle of
a plague in Wschowa’) and ‘Polnische
Chronicke’ (‘Polish Chonicle’). Lauterbach
was a respected man and a lot of citizens treated him as a revival of pastor
Herberger. And even the fact that he
was born 100 years later was symbolic.
‘Polish Chronicle’ shows his attitude
towards Poland and the Polish. This
German pastor had always been in favour of Poland. At the end of the book he wrote: ‘Let
Poland succeed’. He died in 1728.
We suggest you should finish your rout of Wschowa on the old-town evangelic cemetery.
However, you could also visit a palace in Głogowska Street (which is a Music School at
present) or a Trinity church in Kosynierów Square, which was built in 1837 as a Lutheran
church. Its architect was Karl Friedrich Schinkel, who had created a lot of buildings in Berlin.
17
Old Wschowa (postcards from the collection of Wschowa Region Museum)
Town Hall
Rzeźnicka Street with a fountain (XVIII c.)
The Eastern Frontage
of the Square
(destroyed in 1945)
The Western Frontage of the Square
18
Evangelical church
‘Kripplein Christi’
The interior of ‘Kripplein Christi’
Renaissance tenements in
Castle Square
Lion Bridge
19
St. Stanisław the Bishop and
the Assumption parish church
Jesuite College
The church and the monastery
of the Franciscans
20
The Old-town Evangelic Cemetery
21
Sources
•
•
The Chronicle of Observants in Wschowa (1455-1808). A typescript of translation by Father Pius Turbański OFM. Wschowa 1971.
The history of Wschowa Region and its capital city – Wschowa – together with the national history collected and written by a magistrate of
Wschowa Province, Józef Joneman. Chosen and commented on by Barbara Ratajewska. Wschowa 1993
Studies
•
Bogucka Maria, Samsonowicz Henryk: Dzieje miast i mieszczaństwa w Polsce przedrozbiorowej. Wrocław 1986.
•
Chryzostom Fryc OFM, Alojzy Pańczak OFM, Lesław Szymborski OFM: Wczoraj i dziś franciszkanów we Wschowie. Wschowa 2004.
•
Dworzaczkowa Jolanta: Kontrreformacja we Wschowie w latach 1577-1632. Roczniki Historyczne, tom XXXVI. Poznań 1970.
•
Katalog zabytków sztuki w Polsce. Województwo zielonogórskie. Powiat Wschowski. Opracowali: Marian Kornecki,
Przemysław Maliszewski. Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Sztuki w Warszawie. Warszawa 1958 (typescript).
•
•
•
•
Maryniuk Bronisław: Wschowa i okolice. Warszawa 1962.
Moritz Hugo: Geschichte Fraustadt im Mittelalter. Zeitschrift der Historischen Gesellschaft für die Prowinz Posen. Tom XIX. Posen 1904.
Moritz Hugo: Reformation und Gegenreformation in Fraustadt, Teil II. Posen 1908.
Nowakowski Andrzej: Wschowa i Ziemia Wschowska w dawnej Polsce /do roku 1793/. Białystok 1994.
•
•
Pawłowska Jolanta: Protestantyzacja i rekatolizacja Wschowy w latach 1552-1637. MA thesis. Poznań 1993.
Piwoń Aleksander: Bernardyni we Wschowie. Przyjaciel Ludu 1995 Z.3-4.
•
•
Piwoń Aleksander: Rola gospodarcza Wschowy. Przyjaciel Ludu 1986 Z.5.
Piwoń Aleksander: Sytuacja przestrzenna i demograficzna Wschowy w XVIII w. Przyjaciel Ludu 1986 Z.4.
•
•
Ratajewska Barbara: Królewskie wizyty we Wschowie. Ziemia Wschowska 2001Nr 20 (37).
Ratajewska Barbara: Wschowska fara. Ziemia Wschowska 2001 Nr 27 (44).
•
Ratajewska Barbara: Z dziejów wschowskiego ratusza. Ziemia Wschowska 2001 Nr 24 (41).
•
•
Ratajewska Barbara: Zbór luterański „Kripplein Christi”. Ziemia Wschowska 2002 Nr 5 (52).
Ratajewska Barbara: Zespół klasztorny oo. Franciszkanów. Ziemia Wschowska 2002 Nr 3 (50).
•
•
Schober Willi: Eckpfeiler Fraustadt. Piła 1936.
Sterna - Wachowiak Sergiusz: Ali Pasza we Wschowie. Przyjaciel Ludu 1989 Z.1.
•
Wilecki Aleksander: Wschowska dżuma roku 1709/10 jako tworzywo literackie w utworach Samuela Fryderyka
Lauterbacha i Ruth von Ostau. Leszno 1998 (MA thesis).
•
Witamy w królewskim mieście! Tekst: Konrad Antkowiak. Wydawca: Agencja Promocyjno-Wydawnicza UNIGRAF w
Bydgoszczy. Bydgoszcz 2004.
•
•
Wojciechowski Jan.: Zabytki Wschowy i okolic. Wschowa 1997
Wróblewska G.: Wschowa /w:/ Studia nad środkową Odrą i dolną Wartą (województwo zielonogórskie). Tom II:
Dolny Śląsk. Dolne Łużyce. Praca zbiorowa pod redakcją Z. Kaczmarczyka i A. Wędzkiego. Zielona Góra 1970.
•
Wschowa. Miasto i powiat. Pod redakcją Władysława Korcza. Zeszyty Lubuskie 13. Zielona Góra 1973.
•
Wuttke Heinrich: Städtebuch des Landes Posen. Leipzig 1864.
22
Websites
1.
2.
3.
4.
The Municipal Council of Wschowa: an official service of the Municipal Council (www.wschowa.pl)
Wschowa yesterday and today (www.wschowa _ foto.webpark.pl)
The website of Fathers Franciscans (www.klasztor.wschowa.net.pl)
A guidebook of Wschowa (www.bedeker.wschowa.net.pl)
5.
Old-town Evangelic Cemetery in Wschowa (www.wschowskilapidarium.interbit.pl)
A list of tourist accomodation in Wschowa
1.
„Hubertus” Inn, Dębowa Łęka 49a, phone: 065 540 21 72 ( year-long activity)
2.
Old Royal Castle, Plac Zamkowy 7, phone: 065 540 79 07 (year-long activity)
3.
Sport and Leisure Centre Hotel, Sportowa St 5, phone: 065 540 21 28 (year-long activity)
A list of catering establishments in Wschowa
1.
„Tymff” Pizza Ristorante , Ratuszowa St 8
2.
„Black Cat” Pizza place, Klasztorna St 1
3.
„Italia Uno” Pizza-Spaghetti place, Wolsztyńska St 29
4.
„Herbaciarnia”, Rynek 13
5.
„Picollo” café, Wolsztyńska St 9a
6.
„Wschowianka” Eating place, Niepodległości St 45
7.
„Hana”, Plac Kosynierów 1c
Wydawca: Wydawnictwo Libro, ul. Ciechocińska 27, 60-473 Poznań, tel. 061 840 72 37, www.libro.poznan.pl
23
The Municipal Council of Wschowa
The Office of Promotion and Development
Plac Zamkowy 3, 67-400 Wschowa
e-mail: [email protected]
phone: 065 540 59 98
Translation
BLUE Akademia Języków Obcych
Katarzyna Grabarska-Kaczmarek
ISBN 83-60035-15-6
www.wschowa.pl
24

Spacerem po Wschowie - wersja angielska 2008

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